Showing posts with label Andy Warhol. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Andy Warhol. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 13, 2023

A Taste of Paradis / Jodie Foster in Conversation with Andy Warhol

 


A Taste of Paradis: 

Jodie Foster 

in Conversation 

with Andy Warhol

Over its 258-year history, Hennessy has pioneered and elevated the art of cognac, a spirit fit for kings and queens. Interview hasn’t been around quite as long – just 54 years – but we like to think we, too, have curated conversations and photography that aspire to a similar level of elegance and sophistication. In honor of Hennessy’s storied Paradis marque, we poured through the Interview archives to recirculate conversations with personalities, entertainers, and icons who personify the brand’s spirit of refinement, grandeur, and artistry. Today, we revisit the June 1980 issue, in which a then-teenage Jodie Foster sat down with our founder Andy Warhol to discuss superstardom and going to college.

Tuesday, November 1, 2022

Life Lessons From the One and Only Andy Warhol

 

 

Life Lessons From the One
and Only Andy Warhol

Welcome to Life Lessons. This week, we’re marking what would have been the 93rd birthday of our founder Andy Warhol with a journey into the archives. In our special April 1996 issue (aptly titled Andy Mania!), a few icons paid homage to our “wigged-out” patron saint in words and images. Among them are the likes of Richard Pandiscio, Candy Darling, Mary Harron, and our legendary former Editor-in-Chief Ingrid Sischy—whose most memorable reflections are found below. So sit down and grab a pen—you just might learn a thing or two.

Tuesday, April 21, 2020

That summer is grey gardens meets studio 54



Edith Bouvier Beale and Peter Bread


That summer is grey gardens meets studio 54


Peter Beard and Lee Radziwill’s long-lost footage inserts Big and Little Edie into a wider cultural narrative about late 70s NYC.

Hannah Ongley
21 May, 2018


Grey Gardens superfans — in 2018, there are still many — tend to hold two theories about why Big and Little Edie Bouvier Beale are so eternally captivating. The eccentric former socialites’ story can be read as tragic, or triumphant, or both. Did the Beales shun society or did society shun them? Debating this requires you to look outside the crumbling walls of their Hamptons mansion, and towards an overlooked surrounding cast of characters. (Little Edie rejected marriages from both J. Paul Getty and Joe. Kennedy Jnr.)


A new, long-lost prequel to Grey Gardens now opens the circle up even wider, providing fascinating context to the iconic mother-daughter duo’s story, and introducing new narratives that are equally riveting. That Summer is a trove of fully restored archival footage previously believed to have been lost, shot a few years before Albert and David Maysles started filming Grey Gardens. The new documentary was commissioned by artist Peter Beard alongside Lee Radziwill, the glamorous younger sister of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who originally hired the Mayles brothers to work on the now-iconic film about her reclusive relatives.
That Summer showcases a motley crew of creatives who shaped 70s NYC culture, from Radziwill and Beard to Andy Warhol and Bianca Jagger. (Warhol lent his own archival footage to the project.) The result blends the dilapidation of Grey Gardens with the glitter of Studio 54, blending the New Yorks into a languid summer dreamscape: encompassing glamor and dilapidation, nostalgia and foresight, ephemerality and eternal life. Peppering the archival footage and interviews are newly shot scenes of Beard creating a collage, blending scenes of Africa with 70s time capsules of Donyale outstretched on a rock. It’s a fitting metaphor for That Summer’s cinematic mélange of disparate communities. “At the time,” explains director Göran Hugo Olsson, “New York was far from paradise, with the drugs and all that, but to me, it was a dream that we should all be striving towards: tolerance and acceptance.”
How familiar were you with the original Grey Gardens documentary?Göran Hugo Olsson: I was familiar with it, and fascinated by it, like most other people I know. I viewed the film two times before making That Summer, to make sure that we could add something to it. I haven’t seen it since I made this film. I kind of disappeared every day, six hours a day, for a couple of years [laughs].
A incredible number of celebrities show up in the film, including Bianca Jagger, model Donyale, and Andy Warhol. It’s almost the Studio 54 of Long Island.The first time I became aware of the Beales was through a book by Andy Warhol. I actually think I became aware of Peter Beard though Andy Warhol, come to think of it.
Which book of Warhol’s was it?I think it was America, which has both Peter and the Beales in it.

LEE RADZIWILL, COURTESY JONAS MEKAS
You say the original footage was supposed to document the barometer of change in 70s East Hampton. Did you ever live in Montauk or the Hamptons yourself?No, not at all! I live in Stockholm, Sweden. The reason why I made the film, or was asked to come up with ideas of how to make the material into film, is that I was so into New York in the late 70s when I was a very young teenager. I was totally fascinated by the world around New York and Studio 54 and Warhol. At the end of the 70s I was very politically active in supporting the struggle against apartheid in South Africa. I remember biking from an ANC (African National Congress) meeting to the public library to read Interview magazine. It was a dream world for me. In South Africa, to be able to explore yourself and express yourself, that was a dream.
Obviously politics forms a facet of this documentary because of the Kennedy tie-in. But was politics a reason you became interested in the story?I think, not only me, but the entire team, we tried to make a film that exposes social or economic injustice. The film was about film itself. And I don’t see the difference between a political struggle and a struggle to present art as art. I was a hardcore leftist but I never saw any problems in loving mainstream pop stars.
Why do you think we are still so infatuated by Big and Little Edie today?The story or situation is about how you’re supposed to behave like a woman. They’re protected by their class or privilege up to a certain level. But when they break that level, their community or their surrounding world cracks down on them harder. I’m sure that if they were two eccentric professors in American literature, people would regard them more highly.

EDITH BOUVIER BEALE, COURTESY OF PETER BEARD
At one point, Big Edie says that “bringing up the past is the most awful thing you can do.” What do you think about that sentiment in the context of making this documentary?First, I think she’s right, and she saw it at that time. I kept that scene because I wanted to show that she was aware of what was going on, and how this could be perceived by others. We all should identify with that. It’s a key line.
What did you know of the Beales’s showbiz ambitions? The way Little Edie moves and speaks is so wonderfully theatrical.I think they both wanted to pursue singing careers. It was singing, drama, and music. Little Edie went to Harvard. I don’t know what she studied there. But in those days, it didn’t matter so much what you studied. It was a different system at that time.
At one point they’re talking about Lee’s father to a Hamptons local, who says he can’t tell any stories because they’re all too risqué. Did you get to hear any of them?I think the stories wouldn’t [be appropriate for] the time of the #MeToo movement! But it was a different time. He had a lot of stories! But when he was around, that was almost 100 years ago. What do you know? He was a character. What I heard was hearsay. What I do know, more than anyone because I’ve seen the footage so many times, and have been able to process it… we can all identify with having a family history which has to be re-written from time to time. 100 years ago, rich people didn’t pay much respect to women, even less than they do maybe today.
Little Edie applying makeup to never leave the house feels strangely modern. She’s not trying to impress men, but as she says at one point, she’s always looking for either her eyeliner or her pants.It’s very refreshing to hear Peter Beard talk about them. He said they were in a time capsule, and they were in a dream world, and it was okay. One of the things we wanted to communicate is that there was a tolerance at this particular time, in New York in the 70s, and I think we should all strive to be more tolerant. That was a key thing for Peter.
The scene where Big Edie is lying on the sofa surrounded by cake and ice-cream reminded me of Marie Antoinette .We all have that indulgent side, and they explore that side, and are unapologetic about it. It makes you really like them.
This article originally appeared on i-D US.


Retratos ajenos
Peter Beard

De otros mundos
Peter Beard / La vida es un juego salvaje
Nueva York busca a Peter Beard, el fotógrafo de la selva
La familia confirma la muerte del fotógrafo Peter Beard
La salvaje vida de Peter Beard

Dragon
Peter Beard, the Wildlife Photographer on the Wild Side, Dies at 82 
That summer is grey gardens meets studio 54



Monday, July 8, 2019

Andy Warhol in the Gaze of a 60s French Photographer

Hervé Gloaguen, 'Andy Warhol at the Factory,' NY 1966, 40 x 50 cm, C-print on argentic paper. Courtesy Galerie Arcturus and the artist

Andy Warhol in the Gaze of a 60s French Photographer

Full of bad haircuts, perfectly posed group shots, and unsentimental romanticism.

November 12, 2016

When Hervé Gloaguen arrived in New York City as a young Parisian photographer, he landed at the center of Andy Warhol’s inner circle, camera in hand. Gloaguen was in the US on assignment for popular French magazine Réalités, and his photos from 1965–1971 capture Warhol, his scene, and his city with endearing naiveté. Half a century after Gloaguen documented Warhol’s world, New York au Temps d’Andy Warhol puts the portraits on display once again at Galerie Arcturus, as part of the fifth-annual Photo Saint-Germain festival in Paris.
Gloaguen, unlike his star-struck contemporaries, dismantles Warhol’s invulnerability, producing photographs not of a celebrity, but of a friend. The images, like his metropolitan landscapes and portraits of other artists—take a young Yayoi Kusama and her clique, for example—are fun and indulgent. Full of bad haircuts, perfectly posed group shots, and unsentimental romanticism, the photos are nostalgia at its best.
Let Gloaguen’s portraits of 1960s New York wash away the woes of 2016, below:
1967, Yayoi Kusama, NY by Herve Gloaguen.jpeg
Hervé Gloaguen, Saint Mark’s place, near the Dom (Third from the right is the artist Yayoi Kusama), NY 1967, 40 x 50 cm,Gelatin silver print on Baryta paper
ANDY WARHOL-1966-02 B.jpg
Hervé Gloaguen, 'Andy Warhol with silver balloons at the roof of Chelsea Hotel,' NY 1966, 40 x 50 cm, C-print on argentic paper
05_Galerie-Arcturus.jpg
Hervé Gloaguen, 'Skating in Central Park,' NY 1966, 40 x 50 cm, Gelatin silver print on Baryta paper, courtesy of Galerie Arcturus and the artist.
02_Galerie Arcturus.jpg
Hervé Gloaguen, 'Andy Warhol and Shirley Temple,' NY 1966, 50 x 40 cm, Gelatin silver print on Baryta paper
01_Galerie Arcturus.jpg
Hervé Gloaguen, 14th Street, NY 1967, 60 x 80 cm , C-print on argentic paper, courtesy of Galerie Arcturus and the artist

VICE



Monday, May 20, 2019

Andy Warhol's friendship with Jean-Michel Basquiat revealed in 400 unseen photos

Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol outside the Mary Boone Gallery, New York, 3 May 1984.
Photograph: The Andy Warhol Foundation


Andy Warhol's friendship with Jean-Michel Basquiat revealed in 400 unseen photos

Book offers ‘voyeuristic glimpse’ into the two artists’ lives with hundreds of Warhol’s images and diary entries


Dalya Alberge

Monday 20 May 2019


A“voyeuristic” glimpse into the world of two of the late 20th century’s greatest artists is to be revealed in a book that finally brings to light some of the 130,000 photographs that Andy Warholtook to document every aspect of his life.


More than 32 years after Warhol’s death, hundreds of his photographs are set to reveal the minutiae of his friendship with fellow artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, capturing many moments together – whether partying, getting their nails painted, or even, for Basquiat, while in the depths of depression facing suicidal thoughts.

Thursday, November 3, 2016

Priscilla Presley by Andy Warhol



NEW AGAIN: PRISCILLA PRESLEY

ANDY WARHOL

Earlier this month, The New York Times announced that Graceland, Elvis Presley's estate that opened to the public in 1982, will establish a second location in Las Vegas. The announcement will be made official later this month, though the opening of this museum—set to include an exhibition space and live performances—is long overdue. Having played 837 performances in Sin City, there are few places more crucial to Elvis' career.

This week, we highlight an interview with his ex-wife, Priscilla Presley, from our December 1979 issue. Priscilla had been with Elvis since she was 14, and although she left him before his death in 1977, the actress would have known Graceland just as well as the King himself.

At the time of this conversation, Priscilla had fallen deeply in love with male model Michael Edwards. She resolved to not discuss Elvis during the interview, but it was impossible to ignore his legacy when speaking about topics like hair products, travel, and caviar.




Priscilla Presley

By Andy Warhol
Part I: Tuesday, October 16, 1979, 9:00 p.m., Quo Vadis.Andy Warhol, Bob Colacello, and actress/fashion-plate Janet Villella are dining with Priscilla Presley and her steady beau, Michael Edwards, a major male model. Priscilla, the ex-wife of the greatest legend in the history of rock-'n'-roll, is in town to promote Wella hair products, for which she has just become their million-dollar-a-year "spokesperson." She has let it be known in advance (through PR people) that the purpose of this interview is not to talk about Elvis. But whatever tension and restriction that has created is soon gone as Priscilla begins to speak in a voice as beautiful as her face.

Friday, January 11, 2013

Robert Mapplethorpe / Portraits

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Patti Smith’ 1979
Patti Smith, 1979

This famous photograph of Patti Smith is a study in contrasts, not only between the black hair and white doves, between the gossamer-lightness of the dress and the sharpness of Smith’s features; but between the peaceful, almost arcadian atmosphere conjured up by the tree, doves and dress and the intensity of Smith’s gaze and expression.

PORTRAITS
by Robert Mapplethorpe


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Louise Bourgeois’ 1982, printed 1991
Louise Bourgeois, 1982


Louise Bourgeois is a French-born, American artist, who began making surrealist-inspired paintings and prints, but turned to sculpture in the late 1940s. Her sculptures, often but not always abstract, have strong allusions to the human body and especially to human sexuality. In this photograph she is carrying one of her own works, a phallic-shaped sculpture that her right hand is holding in a suggestive manner. Her smile is very knowing.

Andy Warhol, 1983

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Andy Warhol’ 1986, printed 1990
Andy Warhol, 1986
Andy Warhol (1928-1987) was one of the most influential artists of the late twentieth century. Indeed, Mapplethorpe had idolised him while he was studying at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn in the late 1960s. However, by 1973 when they showed together at the Gotham Book Mart in New York, they were distrustful of each other. Photographed at the same time as the other 1983 portrait in ARTIST ROOMS, Mapplethorpe has selected just Warhol’s head and shoulders. Leaning against the white wall to the left, his body in profile, Warhol turns his head to face the camera, exhibiting his customary blank expression.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Truman Capote’ 1981
Truman Capote, 1981

The American writer, Truman Capote (1924-1984), is best known for works such as ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ (1958) and ‘In Cold Blood’ (1966). He was very publicity-conscious, ever since 1948, when he posed for a suggestive and provocative photograph to adorn the dust jacket of his book ‘Other Voices, Other Rooms’. In later years he was fairly reclusive. This photograph shows him relaxed, presumably at home, but by placing him alongside a strange, white sculpture of a palm tree Mapplethorpe manages to suggest something of Capote’s notorious eccentricity.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘William Burroughs’ 1980
William Burroughs, 1980

William Burroughs (1914-1997) was a novelist, a guru and one of America’s underground heroes. His greatest novel, ‘The Naked Lunch’ (first published in France in 1959) was banned on the grounds of obscenity until, in a groundbreaking trial in 1966, it was declared not obscene. By 1980, when this photograph was taken, Burroughs was a countercultural giant. Mapplethorpe portrays him as a secular saint in prayer. Almost half the composition is taken up by Burroughs’s dark jacket, which thereby throws into sharp relief his head and clasped hands.

Roy Lichtenstein, 1985



The American painter, sculptor and printmaker, Roy Lichtenstein (1923-1997), was one of the chief exponents of Pop Art. In his early years he specialised in using comic-book and advertising imagery as the basis for his paintings. In the 1980s he began to scale up expressionistically painted sketches which he would then proceed to paint with precisionist detail. It is probably one of these paintings that Lichtenstein is standing in front of in this photograph.

Francesco Clemente, 1982

Francesco Clemente is an Italian painter born in Naples in 1952. At the time this photograph was taken, he lived part of the time in New York, Rome and Madras. Clemente came to the fore internationally in the late 1970s and 1980s, when expressive, figurative painting became popular again. The pose and facial expression that he adopts are those of a saint or holy man. Mapplethorpe, who grew up a Catholic, uses the iconography of Catholic imagery to bring out something of the saintly seeker-after-truth in Clemente, who regularly spent time in India where he was inspired by the richness of the culture and religious practices.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Keith Haring’ 1984
Keith Haring, 1984

Along with Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring (1958-90) was the leading artist of the graffiti art movement which flourished in New York in the 1980s. Haring’s geeky, schoolboy ingénu look belied his savvy knowledge of the media. Mapplethorpe has captured this mixture of faux innocent and knowing art practitioner in this portrait.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Robert Rauschenberg’ 1983
Robert Rauschenberg, 1983


Robert Rauschenberg (1925-2008) was a major American painter, sculptor and printmaker, whose radical combination of action painting with found objects in the 1950s helped prepare the way for Pop Art. Mapplethorpe portrays him as a worker in dark overalls. His outspread arms, open hands and compassionate facial expression make him look like a saint. Mapplethorpe did something similar in a photograph of the Italian artist, Francesco Clemente.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Willem de Kooning’ 1986
Willem de Kooning, 1986

The Dutch-born American painter, Willem de Kooning (1904-1997), was, along with Jackson Pollock, the chief representative of the gestural form of Abstract Expressionism. Mapplethorpe portrays him as a benign ‘old-timer’ in his working overalls. As with his portraits of Brice Marden, Roy Lichtenstein and Francesco Clemente, it appears Mapplethorpe has photographed him infront of one of his own paintings.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Brice Marden’ 1976
Brice Marden, 1976

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Brice Marden’ 1986
Brice Marden, 1986


The American artist Brice Marden emerged in the 1960s as a painter of flat monochrome works. In the 1980s, however, influenced by Far Eastern calligraphy and poetry, he had turned to a freer, gestural type of painting, of the sort that can be seen behind him in this photograph. The frontality and symmetry of Marden’s pose provide a strong structural centre in the image, set against the expressive, free flow of the painting behind him which continues on to his shirt. This contrasts with the earlier portrait of Marden by Mapplethorpe in 1976, which imitated Marden’s carefully balanced minimal paintings of the time in a more sparse composition.

Lawrence Weiner, 1982

Lawrence Weiner (born in New York in 1942) is one of the founders of conceptual art, a movement that placed the emphasis on the conceptual and linguistic basis and formulation of a work of art, rather than on its execution. Mapplethorpe portrays him as a rugged intellectual with more than a streak of flamboyance - a silk scarf draped around his neck and tattooed star on his wrist - and love of his own rhetoric (note the open mouth, as if he had been caught in mid-flow). The diagonal lines of his arms create a parallelogram in the centre of the composition that acts as a base for the bearded head above.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘John McKendry’ 1975, printed 1992
John McKendy, 1975

Born in Canada, John McKendry was a curator of prints and photographs at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It was through McKendry that Mapplethorpe was exposed to photography in a new light and began to consider it as an art form of its own standing. However, McKendry was an alcoholic and this photograph of him was taken in hospital the day before he died, his face slathered in royal jelly moisturiser. Mapplethorpe’s brilliant cropping concentrates our attention on his discriminating eye, for which he was famous, and on the single electrical cord hanging from the socket. Mapplethorpe knew that he didn’t have long to live.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Henry Geldzahler’ 1979
Henry Geldzahler, 1979

Mapplethorpe met Henry Geldzahler (1935-1994) at John McKendry’s apartment in New York. Like McKendry he was a fellow curator (for twentieth-century art) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Geldzahler had close relationships with many artists and was portrayed by, among others, David Hockney, Alice Neel and Larry Rivers, and he figured as the sole character in a 90-minute film by Andy Warhol, in which he did nothing more than smoke a cigar. Mapplethorpe’s close-up photograph shows him with his trademark cigar and bow tie. It highlights Mapplethorpe’s interest in formal contrasts with Geldzahler’s prickly beard and patterned blazer set against his gleaming spectacles and flat background.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Phillip Johnson’ 1978
Philip Johnson, 1978

Philip Johnson (1906-2005) was the doyen of American architects and architectural critics. In the 1930s he championed the cause of modernism, although towards the end of his career he was one of the first architects to embrace postmodernism. He is photographed here seated in a dark leather chair, wearing his round, trademark spectacles that contributed so much to his puckish demeanour. Like a figure in an Egyptian low relief – hieratic and unemotional – Johnson has taken up a triangular pose, from the tip of his pointing finger to the back of his head and down to his elbow.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Smutty’ 1980
Smutty, 1980

The nickname, tattoos, studded wristband and knowing look suggest that there is a darker side to this androgynous-looking young man. The placement of the arms and the contrapposto of the body and head are features common in Mannerist art, an area of art history that Mapplethorpe had a particular interest in.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Smutty’ 1982
Smutty, 1982

Mapplethorpe had previously photographed this androgynous-looking young man, nicknamed ‘Smutty’, in 1980. This later image shows him in a more confident pose - standing with his body in profile, casually leaning his left arm against the wall and his right resting on his hip. The curvature of his arms focuses attention on a key ring of rabbit’s feet (a traditional good luck charm), hanging from his belt. However, his leather trousers and waistcoat, tattoos, and studded wristbands allude to a darker side, and raise the question as to what the good luck is for. His head is turned to look directly at the camera (and consequently the viewer) in a commanding and almost inviting way.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Nick’ 1977
Nick, 1977

Nick looks every inch the hard, leather-clad macho guy of the New York gay S&M scene – studs on his jacket, belt and wristband, tattoos on his arm and forehead (a flaming skull) and a well-trimmed beard. Yet his hands are clasped together as if in prayer.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Bob Love’ 1979
Bob Love, 1979

Around 1979 Mapplethorpe began to photograph black men. As his biographer, Patricia Morrisroe, wrote, he found that “he could extract a greater richness from the colour of their skin”, in particular the tonal range between the highlights and the shadows was more dramatic. In this close-up of Bob Love, Mapplethorpe exploits the contrast between the highlights on his shoulder and face and the inky darkness of his neck and the back and top of his head.

Arnold Schwarzenegger, 1976

The bodybuilder and budding actor, Arnold Schwarzenegger poses in a space rendered theatrical by a curtain that cuts the image at the top into two halves. The curve of the curtain to the left is echoed in Schwarzenegger’s pose – his extended right leg and curved right arm. It shows Mapplethorpe’s interest in the classical tradition with Schwarzenegger’s exceptionally muscular physique reminiscent of Michelangelo’s figures in the Sistine Chapel.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Tattoo Artist's Son’ 1984
Tattoo Artist’s Son, 1984

This portrait shows an unknown punk, introduced to us as just the ‘Tattoo Artist’s Son’. He looks straight out of the frame with one intense eye, the other covered by his long fringe, a contrast to his shaven head. He appears full of attitude, his mouth slightly open as if caught mid-sentence. Despite the sitter’s casual body language the composition is structured. The sitter is centralised against the background which is split in half vertically - one side light, the other dark, his fringe creating a panel of dark swept into the light.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Meredith Monk’ 1985
Meredith Monk, 1985

Meredith Monk is a composer, performer, film-maker and interdisciplinary artist. As she said of herself: ‘I work in between the cracks, where the voice starts dancing, where the body starts singing, where theater becomes cinema’. Mapplethorpe has chosen to show her head in profile, silhouetted against a circular form, as if it were a halo. As in so many of his works, Mapplethorpe has turned to the Catholic iconography of the saints to elevate his sitter.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Diane Benson’ 1980
Diane Benson, 1980

Mapplethorpe has posed his sitter carefully so that her head and projecting hairstyle are in profile, but the back of her coat with its spectacular three-dimensional birds is fully visible. Her exaggerated 1950s-style quiff only just bisects the white diagonal, which emerges from the centre point and slices across the top-left corner of the frame. This emphasises the hairstyle and balances the overall composition.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Marianne Faithfull’ 1976, printed 2003
Marianne Faithful, 1976
In the 1970s Marianne Faithful was well-known in both Britain and America as a singer and as a member of the celebrity jet set. Mapplethorpe photographs her frontally in relation to a strong framework of horizontals and verticals (the balustrade and wall). Faithful’s arms form the hypotenuse of a right-angle triangle, bisected diagonally by her legs, torso and head. Despite the highly structured composition, Faithful seems spontaneous and fun-loving.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Molissa Fenley’ 1983
Molissa Fenley, 1983

In the 1970s Marianne Faithful was well-known in both Britain and America as a singer and as a member of the celebrity jet set. Mapplethorpe photographs her frontally in relation to a strong framework of horizontals and verticals (the balustrade and wall). Faithful’s arms form the hypotenuse of a right-angle triangle, bisected diagonally by her legs, torso and head. Despite the highly structured composition, Faithful seems spontaneous and fun-loving.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Iggy Pop’ 1981
Iggy Pop, 1981

Iggy Pop, “The Godfather of Punk”, was a highly influential American rock singer and occasional actor. He was known for his raw physical energy on stage and also for his drugs problem. In this photograph Mapplethorpe captures this crazed energy (drug induced?), as Iggy Pop stares at the camera with eyes wide open and mouth seemingly about to speak or sing.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Philip Glass and Robert Wilson’ 1976
Philip Glass and Robert Wilson, 1976

Mapplethorpe took this iconic photograph of Philip Glass and Robert Wilson in the same year as the production of Glass’s landmark opera, ‘Einstein on the Beach,’ which Wilson directed. The similar poses that the two men have adopted, as well as the geometry of the composition, emphasise their close collaboration – as well as their differences. The walls behind them are not the same. The white wall behind Wilson stands a few inches in front of the coloured wall behind Glass. Whereas Glass is unkempt, quite scruffily dressed and holding his hands in a contorted fashion, Wilson is well-groomed and generally more self-composed.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Francesca Thyssen’ 1981
Francesca Thyssen, 1981

Francesca Thyssen is the daughter of the art collector, the late Baron Thyssen-Bornemisza, and the Scottish model, Fiona Campbell-Walter. In 1993 she married Archduke Karl von Habsburg, but they later separated. Francesca von Habsburg (as she is now called) lives in Vienna and, like her father, collects art on a grand scale. Mapplethorpe portrays her in a costume that makes her look like a woman in an early Netherlandish painting or a figure out of the Arabian Nights.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Grace Jones’ 1984
Grace Jones, 1984

Grace Jones is a Jamaican-born singer, model and actress, known for her androgynous looks and her outrageous behaviour. She was very much part of the New York art and social scene in the 1980s. For this photograph her body has been painted by the New York graffiti artist, Keith Haring (1958-1990) with his characteristic pictograms and decorations. She is also wearing an exotic headdress and a conical wire bra, so that she looks like a voodoo doll or an aboriginal dancer.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Doris Saatchi’ 1983
Doris Saatchi, 1983

The American, Doris Saatchi (née Lockhart), was Charles Saatchi’s first wife. This photograph was taken when the couple had attained almost legendary status as collectors of international contemporary art. The four-volume set of catalogues of their collection, ‘Art of Our Time’, was published in 1984 and showed that they had acquired many works now considered masterpieces. Mapplethorpe has captured her as a disembodied head looking directly into the camera with no hesitation. She has the gaze of someone who knows what she wants and knows how to appraise it.

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Honey’ 1976
Honey, 1976

Mapplethorpe took a number of photographs of the children of friends and acquaintances. In them he emphasised their innocence and lack of self-consciousness. Here that is reinforced by placing Honey on a flower-studded lawn, her smooth skin contrasted against the texture of the grass.

Robert Mapplethorpe, Paloma Picasso, 1980
Katherine Cebrian, 1980


Katherine Cebrian was one of the ‘grandes dames’ of San Francisco society, who famously said: “I don’t even butter my bread. I consider that cooking.” When Mapplethorpe was in town for the opening of a show at a private gallery, its owner arranged for Mapplethorpe to photograph her. He turned up at her house wearing a black leather outfit and a studded belt, spelling out the word ‘SHIT’. De Celle recollected: “I held my breath, but then Mapplethorpe worked his quiet charms on the elderly woman…talking softly to her while he set up his tripod in the sitting room. Mapplethorpe placed her in a window seat, with her face in profile.”

Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Eva Amurri’ 1988
Eva Amurri, 1988

This photograph is of Eva, the daughter of American actress Susan Sarandon. Although somberly dressed in black, clutching her toy rabbit, a delicate lace collar frames her face and she has a soft smile on her face, her eyes glistening. Although it was taken at a time when Robert Mapplethorpe was desperately ill from AIDS and had only a few months to live, it is an image of innocence and of bright hope for the future.


Robert Mapplethorpe, ‘Lindsay Key’ 1985
Lindsay Key, 1985


Mapplethorpe took a number of photographs of the children of friends and acquaintances. In them he emphasised their innocence and lack of self-consciousness. Unlike his portraits of grown-ups with their studied postures, he preferred casual and natural poses. Here he captures the totally natural contrapposto of the young girl, as she leans with the top part of her body against the wind that is blowing her hair across her face. Her legs lean in the opposite direction.
Robert Mapplethorpe, Aira, 1979

Robert Mapplethorpe's Lisa Lyon, 1982Robert Mapplethorpe, Lisa Lyon, 1982
Robert Mapplethorpe, William Burroughs, 1979
Robert Mapplethorpe,Robert Mapplethorpe, Annabelle’s mother, 1978

robert-mapplethorpe-selfportrait-1988Robert Mapplethorpe, Selfportrait, 1988
In this late photograph, Mapplethorpe is no longer playing a role, as he did in so many of his earlier self-portraits. It was taken a few months before he died from an AIDS-related illness in 1989. In it he faces straight ahead, as if he were looking death in the face. The skull-headed cane that he holds in his right hand reinforces this reading. Mapplethorpe is wearing black, so that his head floats free, disembodied, as if he were already half-way to death. Mapplethorpe even photographs his head very slightly out of focus (compared with his hand) to suggest his gradual fading away.
http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/mapplethorpe-andy-warhol-ar00220