Friday, February 28, 2014

Warp Spiders - Step by Step Guide in Craftworld Altansar Colours

I started working on the next 8 Warp Spiders and thought I would share the process with you guys. 

It is almost a step by step guide and I hope this helps you guys out there especially since there is no guide for Craftworld Altansar I have seen. Now this is only my interpretation of the colour scheme. 

Base coat was added after I base the models with sand and coarse grain

Let it dry overnight and then hit the base with black followed by a light drybrush of Space Wolf Grey. For the armour, I start with a base of P3 Warlord Purple. I am messy at this stage because I will wash the armour with Red then tidy the rest up when I hit the other areas. I used a Size 4 Brush for this. Finished in 8 models in 10 minutes. 
Next up, Baal Red wash into the recesses of the armour to shade and mute the purples down. This also serve to create interest in the model and it's bloody fast! Remember though, keep the paint running and make sure your base coat is dry, preferably over night. I used the Army Painter Wargamer: Regiment brush or any size 2 brush. You can be messy at this stage

I then blocked in the greens into the inner parts of the barrels and the locks of hair in Dark Angels Green. Did this after waiting for the wash to dry overnight as well. 
These two steps of the project does take awhile longer owing to drying times so do plan ahead. Either work on other models or use this between taking care of the kids/doing laundry/homework.

The next step was to block out the black parts of the models using Abaddon Black. This is where you have to start getting tidy with your work, mopping up the spillover purples. Keep your paints thin especially for the Warp Jump Generators.  I used the Size 2 brush here as it lays more paint down 

Celestra Grey for all helmets and mandibles which will eventually be highlighted to white. I have switched to a size 1 brush with emphasis on the sharp bristle. You need to start getting precise now especially around the eye sockets and mouth pieces. I had also ran Scab Red into the eye sockets to create a shade for the eyes

A close up of the cone heads. The armour will be highlighted further to accentuate the ridges
Drybrushed Codex Grey onto the guns quite gently, keeping neat as I went along

Close up will reveal a very gentle tinge on all the black guns. I will return to highlight these at the very end

Highlighted the edges of the armour with Pink Horror which had a slight reddish tinge hence I used the Red Wash earlier

You can spot the gentle highlights to the edges of the armour. I will return with Emperor's Children as the final highlight

Added in a layer of Ulthuan Grey to the helmets and mandibles

Leave the rings around the studs grey to create shadow so that your white comes out shaded.
Base the gems in Scab Red

Hit all the studs and Warp Generator connectors in Boltgun Metal

I hit all gems on the Warp Guns with Dark Angels Green. 

While the front is drying, I highlight the gems at the back with Blood Red

Final highlights to the heads using Skull White

Keeping it thin, I left the recesses grey to give shade to the white

I highlighted the internal of the barrels Goblin Green. I also hit all the gun gems in the same green

Here is what they look like before the final stages of shade to metallic areas and highlights to gems and the Warp Generator green glow

Highlighted all the tubes in Putrid Green, just gentle streaks to create the inner glow. All gems received the same treatment

Close up on the said barrels/tubes

Added a dot to all the gems, creating the final highlight. It's amazing how much more that small dot does to gems!

Added the flock to the base, similar to the rest

A close up of the 2nd unit of Spiders. 

Final stages include the following: 
I am taking the Shrine markings off this really old issue of WD to separate the two units
The Shrine markings will help me separate the 2 squads. I would also like to add the rune on their helmets but I want to finish up the rest of my other minis first before I come back to them. 

Will also be adding one last layer of highlights to their armour. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this article. It took me about 2 weeks, each day about an hour of painting to get here so keep painting people! 

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Eldar Jetbike Stand Magnetization WIP Update

Glue has dried so I decided to put the jetbike on the stand for a test run. And they work swell. Here are the pics! 

From this angle you can't really see the magnet. I will be painting the magnet black to hide it further

One you tilt the model you begin to see the joint which I plan to paint over and clean up

That's how strong the bond is. No glue, no camera tricks. 

SPIDER PIG! 

Now to replicate this on all my jetbikes. 
Go forth and magnetize all ye people!

Also, this is part of my attempt to get my 1850 army ready for the Army Showcase that we are doing as a group. It's my 2014 Resolution too: to have a fully painted 1850 competitive army!

Footnote: those of you sharp enough would notice the almost complete Warp Spiders in the background. Full tutorial coming soon so stay tuned!

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Magnetizing Eldar Jetbike Stands

If you are like me and the rest of the people in the world, you would struggle with those damn jetbike stands. They work for 2 weeks but then snap shortly. Trying to repair it just makes it worse. You can't glue it in place or you run the risk of them snapping INSIDE the damn jetbike. 

So I decided to magnetize the stands to my jetbikes. Not a full tutorial but this is as good as it gets. 

I cut off the tops to level the stump and stuck the magnet there

Added blutack to the hole to fill it up

Always mark the polarity of your magnets to allow you to swap between stands and prevent your components from repelling each other

Added the smaller diameter magnets to the underside of the bikes

You can't really tell it's there.  
I'll update once the magnets are dry and in place. 

Monday, February 24, 2014

X Wing 2014 Store Championships - Singapore

Yesterday was probably one of the largest turnout of players for X Wing the Tournament in a long time. Granted I have only been to 3, but it was massive. So large that we had a Swiss format at the end. We had to play 3 qualifiers, 1 at Quarter Finals and 1 more at Finals. 

I brought my Swarm list and qualified to the Quarter Finals (Top 8). Finally lost out through elimination to Wiloon who went on to get the 2nd place. Vick came in numero uno. Well done and congrats to all! 

1st game against a new player called Daryl. 

A few of the guys on my left
Got some loot too. Got 5 plastic shield tokens and Ten Numb alternative art card. I had lots of fun and recommend anyone who has 1 hour between games to try it out. Also, there are few minis so carrying them around is a breeze.

Friday, February 21, 2014

X-Wing Wave 4 Ships Spotted

Someone managed to snap a few pictures of actual models from Wave 4. Finally something real and not touched up graphics. 

Finally the Rebels can swarm

Looks scary and I love it

E Wing but I fail to see the "E" silhouette 

This ship looks awesome. 

Pretty Models in the Shelves

Walked by Battle Bunker yesterday with a friend of mine and saw some pretty models on display so I snapped a few photos. Very nicely painted stuff. 

Clean yellows made this army look really pretty

Very crisp colours on these models. Really liking the quality. 
Whoever painted the store models clearly did a good job. Kudos to him/her.

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Basing the Revenant Titan

I finally made the decision to order myself one of these lovely Revenant Titans. While it is in the mail, I can't help but think how I am going to base him up. 

I have been scouring forums and pictures on the web and have concluded that I want the Titan to be based up on a round bevelled edge base, akin to our other 40k minis. While most modellers have used the pedestal that come from Bunnings/Wal Mart, I think the following picture captures what I want best. 

This is not my Titan but I do want to base mine on a base similar to the one above
Alternatively I would like to secure the base which is used by the painter below: 
The base captures the size and balance of the model properly


Pose wise, I will be going for this guy's idea:

Shows off the nimble and graceful Titan's move.

The few options that I have considered are:

  1. http://www.dragonforge.com/ - which sell 200mm base blanks, which seem to be the largest in the industry - $20 per piece + shipping
  2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-round-DS-plain-recess-resin-base-/150626235875 - GBP9 + shipping
  3. http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=79_2_81 - 120mm but really nice. $10 per piece + shipping
What is the right size I should target?

I am reaching out to you, my readers if you know of any good suggestions especially if you have done this prior. Appreciate any ideas. 

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Wave Serpent 2 Update - Work in Progress

I had modified my first Wave Serpent awhile back  and was pleased with the results. The plan was to convert and update all 3 of my home brewed Wave Serpents with the new and improved fins, turrets and front side Hollow Fields. It was my interpretation of the Wave Serpent. 

I had mentioned prior that I did not like the antennae thing that was sticking out of the current Wave Serpent design and the turrets to me just looked too angular for a ship this sleek. Hence FW parts. 

Completed Serpent minus the paintjob

I stuck a  piece of Sheet Metal within the crew compartment, creating a recessed component for the turret to stick to

I then added a 5mm diameter magnet below the turret using super glue and modelling putty

The hull has seen some damage from the earlier use of the spoon heads. I filed it down with sandpaper and will be going back in to fill it up with liquid Greenstuff. It will be laborious but worth it. Alternatively I could just go with battle damage

Underside and turbo

This side has seen less damage as the glue did not eat too deep into the hull. I sanded this down with 600 and 1000 grade sandpaper

As it stands now. It even comes with the upgraded Shuriken Cannon. I am not a big fan of proxy so am trying my best to get a pure WYSIWYG army ASAP. 

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