Skirts - Cheat Sheet!

Found something interesting on Pinterest regarding skirts, check it out!


Also Check out Sew Skirts September Board on my Pinterest id; 

If you would like to contribute to this Board, please do mail me your Pinterest id , so that I can add to you to list of contributors! Then you can add pin (skirts you have made as part of your participation in Sew Skirts September or any skirt style you would like to knock-off! Please do pin up and lets try and reconstruct them as much as possible!
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Drape a Skirt Sloper - Threads

Check this post about draping a skirt sloper , for those who have dress forms, can surely try this out, it is high time i made a dummy or bought a dress form! This post is line with our Theme - Sew Skirts September!

Drape a Skirt Sloper - Threads:

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Easy skirt Tutorial - Sew Skirts September

I am off on a short-break to my aunt's place, will be back on Monday! Till then please do check out my earlier tutorials (on Skirts ofcourse!) and also will be posting about few interesting skirt tute's which caught my eye!

No Pattern Skirt  In Less Than 15 minutes

Did you check out the latest - Cowl Skirt Tutorial

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Cowl Skirt Tutorial - Sew Skirts September

Dear Readers,

Now it is time for us to see what's next in Sew Skirts September, ever since i had posted Cowl Neck tutorial, i had requests for cowl skirt drafting, i was still learning the ropes then and hence chose to wait before i am clear enough to explain to others!

Based on comments from Purush and Carolyn on Basic Skirt Sewing post, i tried the shaped waistband, what are your thoughts on this. Drafted the waistband as a single piece starting from Half of Back waistband then followed by Front waistband and then again remaining half waistband with extension for closure. Add darts which are about 2/8 inch wide at points where back waistband meets front waist band i.e., 2 darts Closure is the same it was in Basic Skirt , hook and thread loop closure as we use here for saree blouses, (I did not have a matching button, hence did not put buttonhole closure!) I chose this fabric thinking it will drape nicely and the cowls will look lovely, though i have got the drape of cowl as desired, i somehow am not happy with the fall of the skirt in center front. I tried with rough fabric with grainline as bias and didn't like the feel of it as the cowl was too drapey to my liking, hence decided to have the CF on straightgrain on fold, now i am having second thoughts if i should have had CF with seams, so that i could have squeezed in extra fall near the hemline at CF ! your thoughts and suggestions on this!

Here is the snap of the sample tried out on Barbie doll (the guinea pig for my sewing experiments!)

This is how the skirt looks Flat on the floor and viola , now lets say A-B-R-A-C-A-D-A-B-R-A ....

Not so clear pictures, i have to get tripod stand to assist me when i do not have any photographers at my service! ;) will post better pictures soon with a new matching top!

Coming up next are relatively simple skirt drafts like A-Line skirt, Flared Skirt , Stay tuned!

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Free Patterns - Jackpot! Check it out!

What a treasure trove i have found - FREE PATTERNS FROM RUSSIA.

This site gives Free Patterns on Fixed size of 33-25-36 (lucky! it is so close to my actual measurements!) I have been busy digging it up and downloading as many PDFs as possible for the past 1 HOUR! ever since i read about this on Grosgrain - Kathleen you are simply superb in finding out hidden treasures, thank you, thank you, actually can't thank you enough!

Source: http://leko-mail.net

All through August, Saturdays will be Special at Adithis Amma Sews as you will meet interesting, talented, creative blogger friends of mine, who will grace the site with their Guest Appearance! Watch Out!

Basic Drafts @ Burdastyle

Check out these oh so useful basic pattern Drafting instructions at Burdastyle.

Basic Bodice Sloper Draft

Patternless Basic Skirt

Basic Skirt Sloper Draft

Once you have a basic bodice and basic skirt draft ready with perfect fit, then there is no stopping you from making fashionable outfits!

Katori Choli - Bombay Cut Blouse Draft

For Sale - Kids Custom Clothing From Adithis Amma Sews- Click Here

Online Teaching takes a new meaning with all those Tutorials floating online for free. Here is one from AdithisAmmaSews. 
Pattern Drafting Softwares..take a break..here is a hand-drafted pattern from AdithisAmmaSews!

Presenting another Pattern Drafting Tutorial from Adithis Amma Sews ...

Readers have been requesting for Katori Choli AKA Bombay cut choli draft for quite sometime now. Managed to work and get it done using MSPaint & Photoshop at last!

Please see the draft. Sewing Tutorial will be posted next week, depending on the response for the draft, so that i can atleast know if people are interested in using the draft, if there are takers, then i shall do the sewing tutorial for the same.

Katori Blouse Draft - Back N Front

Sleeve and Belt DRAFT

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Constructing the Basic Bodice Block – Learning Sewing | BurdaStyle.com

All you ladies looking to draft custom fit patterns, check this link from Burdastyle. If you a fitting Basic Bodice and basic skirt, you are all set to draft any style of dress and knock-off any designer creation and that too to fit you to the 'T' !!!

Check out this tutorial at Burdastyle for drafting basic bodice....

Constructing the Basic Bodice Block – Learning Sewing | BurdaStyle.com

Free Ebook Download

Free Italian Pattern Drafting Book is available for download. I got to know about this from Shams Blog. Though text of this book is part-Italian, part-English,  i guess its manageable as you can figure it out from construction diagrams and numerals for the most part. Check it out. I am currently downloading mine.

Enjoy!

Anarkali Tutorial - Enjoy!

For Sale - Kids Custom Clothing From Adithis Amma Sews- Click Here

Pattern making softwares take a break! Here is another hand-drafted pattern from Adithis Amma Sews

P.S. Though i hand drafted it and scanned, some problem with scan settings and it was very light imprint and hence add to darken it using Photoshop. Hope it is clear, in case you have any visibility problems in any of the steps please do let me know, i will try to fix it.

Coming to sleeves, will do a separate tute on drafting and sewing Short Chinese Lantern sleeve later.

STEP 1: 

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Anarkali Kameez Tutorial - Voted !

Anarkali Kameez got the maximum votes.... so as promised lets demystify Anarkali Kameez

'Kali' means Panels. So it is most popularly tagged as Empire waist top + Panel Skirt

The norm is to have 10 panels each at front & back...though it is customizable as per our wish. After all we are our own designers aren't we ....

In this diagram of prototype Anarkali Kameez, I chose the princess seam + empire waist bodice.

Skirt can be flared anywhere between A-Line to Semi-circle to Circle skirt. Chose a base skirt 

Divide that base skirt into panels. Normally it is 10 panels at front & 10 Panels at the back.

We will work with 1/4 draft so it will be 5 panels that we will be drafting (on Fold at CF & CB)

So are you gals (n guys) ready?!

All you need is a fitting basic shift dress / Kameez with 2 darts (darts only optional depends on the fit you desire...but the more fitting the anarkali kameez, the better it looks!) 

This week we will finish Anarkali kameez right from pattern drafting,cutting,sewing... till we have the finished outfit...

Join in... have fun...

Saree Blouse Pattern Draft 1 - Enjoy

For Sale - Custom Made Clothing From Adithis Amma Sews Check my Etsy Shop- Click Here

Online Teaching takes a new meaning with all those Tutorials floating online for free. Here is another one from AdithisAmmaSews

Pattern making softwares, go ... take a break! 

Saree Blouse Pattern Draft

Would YOU Like to Sponsor this Tutorial - Please Check  PR Page for details!

Sponsor of the Tutorial

I am working on Saree Blouse draft, i have 2 versions of it, of which i am sharing one version which my dear Friend Vidhya  (She has taken a break from blogging due to personal reasons ...) generously drafted and scanned and sent it across for me, i am kind of busy with Deepavali + DD's Birthday preparations (read : shopping , shopping & shopping)

This draft though did not give me exact fit (but it has for her, so if you have proportionate body then it works, mine is petite so i always worth with the other draft, which i am yet to scan, will post it soon)
Try the above draft with cheap cloth or muslin, check fit, make necessary alterations and try it with fashion fabric.

For those of you who do are not aware of how to sew a blouse, fret not, here is the Saree Blouse Sewing Instruction
i will sew atleast 2 blouses this weekend for my Deepavali collection (one for sis , talking about my sister, she suffers from acid reflux disease, does anyone know cure for it, as in what diet helps;  one blouse for self hopefully) so will do a picture tutorial on the sewing part alongside it....


Have finished Pattu Paavadai & Sattai , will post it along with Draft 2moro hopefully,

The past 3-4 days did not have much of 'Blogosphere' time for me, trust me i will compensate more than enough with Blouse and Pattu Paavadai Sattai Draft to name a few

Please do leave feedback, tutorials take lot of time to make, so your feedback is the tonic / motivation to do it.... 

Cut Choli Blouse (Saree Blouse with 3 darts) Draft

Saree Blouse - Back Draft

Saree Blouse Front Draft

Note: the points 23 - 24 is for hook extension and have been wrongly placed on side seam, it should rather be on neck side or can be omitted and a separate piece can be used as shown in Saree Blouse Sewing Tutorial

Note First line is a typo error, it should be 15 instead of 14! Thanks Betsy for pointing it out!

SLEEVE DRAFT

Add SEAM Allowances to all the above drafts as desired

PLEASE NOTE THE ALTERATION PAGE 

Note in the box in the Alteration page below, there is a typo error: it should be 1/3 bust and NOT 1/2 bust as is written there. Thanks Thendral for raising the doubt... 

Also make note of few alterations you can try ... in case the draft requires any alterations for you.... especially if you have broad shoulder & narrow bust or vice-versa... Check Saree Blouse Draft Tweaks & Tricks post for further details

Best of luck, do give the feedback as to if this draft worked for you, in any case i will be uploading Draft 2 later, Draft 2 is the one i use (it fits & works for my sister, MIL, mom & self ...so it all runs in the family ...) 

Once you ready with the pattern draft, check out Saree Blouse Sewing Instruction and make yourself a Saree Blouse... take care...

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