Showing posts with label Budd Shirtmakers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Budd Shirtmakers. Show all posts

Friday, 12 February 2016

Fabric Friday Gally special -
Joel & Son shirt fabric

The week for a special Gallifrey One Fabric Friday I’m bringing you one of the more obscure fabrics used during series eight.
Bookending Kill The Moon, Peter Capaldi wore a striking polka dot black and white shirt.

At the the time it caught every by surprise as it never appeared in any of the publicity stills in the run up to broadcast, and it evaded detection during the location filming.

Due to its fleeting use, it was assumed that the shirt was another off the peg item, possibly from Paul Smith, who did have a similar but not identical shirt around that time.
In fact it was quite on-trend during 2014 with a number of high street retailers stocking bold polka-dot shirts, but none quite matching this one.

What later emerged, via some detective work by Doctor Who cosplay forum members, was that it was actually custom made shirt by Budd Shirtmakers, using some bespoke cloth sourced at Joel & Sons, a fabric merchant with a royal warrant.


Tracking down some of the cloth, it emerges that it is not actual black - that is just how it appears on screen - but is a deep navy blue.

The cloth is a pure silk, very sheer, and has a pronounced twill across it.

It also has a coarse, random grid like pattern superimposed over the polka dots, which is barely perceptible on screen. You can just see it in this screen cap.

Tuesday, 26 August 2014

Budd Shirtmakers - back in the USA

My American readers who missed the chance to meet Budd Shirtmakers when they visited the USA earlier this year, have another chance next month - with TWICE as many cities included in their tour.

Mr James MacAuslan (the talented young cutter who designed the distinctive Capaldi collar) and Mr Darren Tiernan shall be meeting with customers for orders and fittings.


Budd Shirtmakers - overseas visits
Their last visit included New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco. The time they are adding Huston, Washington and Boston.

Here are the planned dates and venues where you can meet Budd Shirtmakers:

San Francisco

Monday 29th September: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Tuesday 30th September: 9am - 11am

Intercontinental Mark Hopkins
999 California St, San Francisco
CA 94108, United States

Telephone: +1 415-392-3434
Los Angeles

Wednesday 1st October: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Thursday 2nd October: 8am - 10am

Chateau Marmont8221 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood
CA 90046, United States

Telephone: +1 323-656-1010
Houston

Friday 3rd October: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Saturday 4th October: 9am - 11am

The St. Regis Hotel1919 Briar Oaks Ln, Houston
TX 77027, United States

Telephone: +1 713-840-7600
Washington

Monday 6th October: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Tuesday 7th October: 9am - 11am

Intercontinenetal, The Willard Washington DC
1401 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Washington
DC 20004, United States


Telephone: +1 202-628-9100
Boston

Wednesday 8th October: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Thursday 9th October: 9am - 11am


The Eliot Hotel
370 Commonwealth Ave, Boston
MA 02215, United States


Telephone: +1 617-267-1607
New York

Friday 10th October: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Saturday 11th October: 9am - 12am


The Benjamin125 E 50th St, New York
NY 10022, United States


Telephone: +1 212-715-2500
If you would like to make an appointment during their visit, please contact Budd to arrange a convenient time and date. They may be reached by either telephone +44 (0)20 7493 0139 or email usa@buddshirts.co.uk

Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Budd Shirtmakers - little bundle of joy

Now that the maker of Peter’s shirt has been revealed as Budd Shirtmakers of Piccadilly Arcade in London’s fashionable West End, I can share with you a few more gems about their work on Doctor Who.

For a long established and traditional company, they are refreshingly connected and have two highly active Twitter feeds.
The first is their general newsworthy feed.
Twitter @BuddShirtmakers

The other, which I find much more interesting, is written by their cutters who post day-to-day news from their workshop.
Twitter @CutterAtBudd

Looking back over their history there is a wonderful little preview of the Peter Capaldi shirt dated 6th September 2013.

CutterAtBudd: A shirt for a certain doctor
It shows Peter’s shirt, all cut and ready to be sewn, along with the card pattern used. You might recognise that collar shape on the top of the pile.

Funny to think that posting was just quietly sitting there, and no-one knew it existed!

Saturday, 19 April 2014

Regeneration shirt - definitive ID

If you’ve been excited to find out the maker of Peter Capaldi’s white shirt, you’re in for another treat.

When I was talking to James MacAuslan, Budd Shirtmaker’s talented young cutter, you might have noticed there were two shirts on the counter.


The second is a stock blue shirt which I found out was THE shirt worn by Matt Smith in The Day Of The Doctor!

This was also worn during the close of The Time Of The Doctor, and is the shirt Peter wears once he’s become the Twelfth Doctor.

Yes, for once The Doctor was wearing a simple off the shelf shirt, I gather because Matt was always too busy to come in for a made-to-measure appointment.

It is Budd’s Blue End On End shirt, and is freely available to buy online at their website and costs £125. The days of The Doctor shopping at TopMan are long gone.

However, before you buy if you sign up to the Budd online newsletter you get a special discount code which will give you £20 off your first purchase.
Signup here, or on the Budd website For £20 Off your first Shirts

Personal Information


I will just mention that having seen the shirt in-hand, the colour on the website is not an accurate match. It is bluer and definitely the right shirt.


The shirt forms part of their current core range and is still available in all sizes, so you shouldn’t have too much trouble getting one.

It may well be just a blue shirt - but it is THE blue shirt!

Thursday, 17 April 2014

The Capaldi look - definitive ID on the shirt

Today I can reveal the final missing piece of the Peter Capaldi costume has now been found - THE SHIRT!

As soon as The Doctor’s new look was revealed, fans were searching the internet high and low to identify all the component parts.
Despite the red herrings thrown out by the BBC, accurate brand names were attached everything - except the shirt.

The shirt is very plain, but yet very distinctive.

Being a plain white shirt it gives no visual clues, unlike Matt’s Paul Smith shirt which in 2010 was found within 24 hours.

But yet the collar is a shape that is not very typical in fashion at the moment, so should be something quiet easy to track down.

We are now over two months later and no positive identification has been made.

However, a chance meeting I had a couple of weeks back has given me a lead which has proved to not only be correct, but has turned up a number of other things as well. More on that later.

The maker of the shirt worn by Peter Capaldi is from Budd Shirtmakers in Piccadilly Arcade, just off Piccadilly itself in London’s fashionable West End.

There are a handful of these arcades off Piccadilly, the most famous of which is probably the Burlington Arcade. All are occupied with very traditional companies offering their own piece of British heritage.

Budd Shirtmakers themselves were established in 1910 and have a reputation for the quality of their shirts.

I recently went to see them and find out for myself if it was one of their shirts that Peter is wearing as The Doctor.

I spoke with Christopher Mundy who confirmed it was correct and he introduced me to James MacAuslan, the young cutter who patterned the shirt especially for Peter.

James is one of the youngest bespoke shirt cutters in London, and he explained how the shirt used their basic tailored-cut body, but made-to-measure to fit Peter Capaldi, using a very high quality fabric called Soyella.

The fabric is pure cotton, but at 170 threads per inch it is so fine and smooth it feels like silk to the touch.

The collar was adapted at the special request of Peter, who wanted a longer, more pointed shape.

He showed me the specially cut pattern piece from which the collar was made, as well as the bolt of Soyella fabric used to make the shirt.


We chatted at length about how fans could get their hands on a shirt in the right cut with the correct collar shape, and it emerged there were three tiers of purchase on offer - but be warned, this is for the serious cosplayer as prices reflect the quality of their shirt making.

STOCK SHIRT
Although the shirt was made-to-measure, it was cut to Budd’s standard tailored-fit pattern. Shirts are available pre-made in pure white cotton poplin to a range of sizes. These can then have their collars removed and replaced with one cut using the Capaldi collar shape.
A stock shirt in white cotton poplin is £125. 
Replacing the collar would be an additional £50
DISCOUNT CODE - I have negotiated with Budd a special reader’s discount on the Stock Shirt option. When ordering, quote CAPALDI and a £20 discount will be applied to the shirt.

STOCK SPECIAL
This is a made-to-measure shirt, based on their tailored-fit pattern in the Soyella fabric, with the Capaldi collar.
The only catch is a minimum of three shirts must be ordered 
(all the same size) at a cost of £225 per shirt

BESPOKE
The final option is the full Peter Capaldi route.
This gives you the option to have the shirt made in the screen-used Soyella fabric, cut to your own individual pattern with the Capaldi collar.
The catch here is a minimum of four shirts must be ordered 
(all the same size) at a cost of £295 per shirt

These shirts can only be ordered direct from Budd Shirtmakers by emailing them at mail@buddshirts.co.uk.
They will be happy to help. Please quote the above options when contacting them, and don’t forget your discount code CAPALDI if you order the Stock Shirt.

Budd in the USA

You will have read about the discovery of the Peter Capaldi shirts at bespoke London shirt makers, Budd.

I know a lot of my reader are in the United States, and if you wanted to go for the made-to-measure option it would make things a bit more challenging, being the other side of the pond.


Well, if you do want a bespoke shirt, with the Capaldi collar, I have some good news for you - Budd are coming to you!

In May 2014 two of their top cutters, including James MacAuslan who cut the special collar on Peter’s shirt, are visiting the United States to meet customers and taker orders and fittings.
Budd Shirtmakers - overseas visits
Their visits usually include New York, but for the first time they will also be visiting Los Angeles and San Francisco as well.

Here are the planned dates and venues where you can meet Budd Shirtmakers
Los Angeles

Monday 12th May: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Tuesday 13th May: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Wednesday 14th May: 9am - Noon

Beverly Wilshire Hotel
9500 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills
CA 90212, United States

Telephone: 310 275 5200
San Francisco

Thursday 15th May 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Friday 16th May 8am - 11am

Intercontinental Mark Hopkins San Francisco
999 California St, San Francisco,
CA 94108, United States

Telephone: 415 392 3434
New York

Monday 19th May: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Tuesday 20th May: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Wednesday 21st May: 9am - 1pm, 2pm - 6pm
Thursday 22nd May: 9am - Noon

The Barclay Intercontinental Hotel
111 E. 48th Street, New York
NY 10017, United States

Telephone: 212 755 5900

If you would like to make an appointment during their visit, please contact Budd to arrange a convenient time and date. They may be reached by either telephone +44 (0)20 7493 0139 or email usa@buddshirts.co.uk

Wednesday, 9 April 2014

A big reveal

I can today announce that I have some great news that I shall be posting in the coming few days, so check back very soon to find out what it is.

Here is a little tease for you.