Singer Vintage Buttonhole attachment, with video!

One of my favorite things about the Singer slant needle sewing machine that I use is the buttonhole attachment.  The buttonholes are strong, always look exactly the same and it can be used on almost any fabric.  In my last post I mentioned using the buttonhole attachment and Robin of a little sewing mentioned she would like to hear more about it.  Since I have many projects in the works but nothing finished and blog-worthy right now, here is a post about buttonholes.  I think that like zippers, buttonholes can strike fear into the heart of the beginning sewer, but they are not bad at all once you get the hang of it.  In fact, this attachment does all the work, so really the only part of the process that the sewer is responsible for is the buttonhole spacing, marking the garment and then placing the needle in just the right spot to start the buttonhole.


To get started, you need to choose the template based on the size of the button.  The Singer attachment has 5 templates, but I only ever use 4 of them.  Once in a great while I use the keyhole template, if I make a wool jacket that seems to call for that style, but otherwise I use the straight one for large buttons.  Then the other sizes are good for coats, dresses and blouses.  The tiny one is cute but very small - maybe for children's or doll's clothes.  
The attachment is flipped over on its back, with the door open, so you can see where you drop in the template and the teeth of the buttonholer grab onto the template.


Here is the first page from the manual, the parts labeled with their technical names such as "bight adjuster" and "feed cover plate" 

Back to the sewing machine.  You remove the regular sewing foot, and the screw that holds it on.  The buttonholer has its own screw, slightly different, used to attach it.  The Feed Cover Plate has to be attached to the surface of the sewing machine,  the screwdriver is pointing to the screw hole that is the correct one to use.  I have mindlessly screwed it into the wrong one and then wondered what was wrong after I attached the buttonholer, so attention here.

A little fiddling with the cover plate is important, as the needle must go through the very small hole and if it is off center it will hit the cover plate and break the needle, so check before proceeding. 


Here is a short (1 minute) video of the buttonhole attachment in action.  It is a bit blurry - my first time trying to video and sew.  Mostly I wanted to show the action of the attachment and how fast it is.

Wasn't that exciting ? OK, maybe not so much but imagine making a garment with 8 buttonholes, plenty of time for daydreaming or pattern planning while hypnotically watching that little gizmo go round and round.

Samples of the different buttonholes, made on a scrap of wool with no interfacing. I went around 2 times for each buttonhole. 

You can also change the width of the stitch, rather like adjusting a zig-zag stitch.  They call it "bight adjustment" in the instructions.  Here is a sample using the different widths.  This is useful depending on the type of fabric and size of buttonhole selected. I usually make a few test buttonholes on scraps to choose the right combination of size and stitch width.  

The manual shows the attachment in place much better than photos I took so here is a look at that.  I have learned to use all the Singer attachments from the manuals that came with them, they are incredibly detailed and yet easy to understand.  Perhaps because I am an instruction reader - computers, power tools, tv and cable, photoshop, whatever it is I read the instructions before proceeding.  If that isn't enough,  I take after my dear old dad, go to the library and get a book, try to teach myself whatever is needed.  So I strongly recommend these little instruction books that come with the Singer accessories.  If anyone has an attachment but no instructions, I would be happy to photograph the rest of the pages and post it on my Flickr page. 

Had enough about buttonholes?  I was sorting through some past photos and saw that I took a whole series of pics while I was making my winter coat, so maybe a post on my methods for bound buttonholes.  Also regarding these machine worked buttonholes, there are a few tips which occur to me and I have not mentioned here, so I will do another short post on those later this week.  

Today I really should get outside and plant the new stuff I purchased this weekend.  Despite our weird late May rain here in N. California, I am trying to change a lot of my garden to low water usage plants.  So here is one of them, a red salvia that the hummingbirds love.                                              

Blazer jacket with velvet collar, Pauline Alice Saler jacket in check wool

It seems like jackets are having a moment. Or at least a resurgence in popularity. Perhaps it was kicked off during the last two elections and the pantsuits worn by women candidates, or maybe we were due a return of 80's fashion, which means oversized jackets, suits and dare I say, shoulder pads. Either way I'm happy for this development as I've always loved sewing blazers (also wearing them) and feel like the sewing community is starting to feel the same way.

So during January when I had to wait on finishing the blazer I sewed for Heather, I sewed up this blazer jacket for myself. I have a older jacket in my closet that I can't part with, it's black and white houndstooth check I made using a Ann Klein Vogue pattern ages ago. It's slightly dated and I shortened it a while ago, not entirely successfully (you can see it worn here).

But I had so much use out of that jacket I decided I needed a new one in my wardrobe. This version is the Pauline Alice Saler Jacket pattern. This is my second version, as I tested this pattern for her in 2016. I think she is one of the few people that make outerwear with nice details and I always look forward to seeing what she comes up with. (other coats I've made from her patterns, neither one for me as it happens, the Quart Coat and Hemisferic Coat.



I was out for a glass of wine with a friend and figured I would take a few photos of this jacket but to my delight we happened to walk by this window display which seems perfect for a sewing obsessive like me.

The fabric for this jacket is something I ordered from Fabric Mart I think just after Christmas. On the website it looked more black/white to me and I was slightly disappointed when it arrived and it looks more like grey, the checks are smaller than I anticipated. But it is a really nice quality wool, perfect for this type of jacket.



I decided to make the collar as a contrast and used black velvet for the upper collar, and then black wool crepe for the under collar and the pocket welts. Both small remnants in my stash. I hoard all pieces of velvet and velveteen for uses just like this one because while I love to wear wool I have an aversion to anything itchy touching my neck. Problem solved!



Pressing velvet is a very specific technique and also I have a needle board, or velvet board which I've had for a long long time. Every time I mention it I get asked about it, the brand it Dritz so it's not some exotic item but I think very few fabric stores carry them. I just did a search and they are between $ 70-140 on various places so if you see one at a garage or estate sale buy it!







But using the needle board generally means no worries on pressing things like this velvet upper collar. I use it on other napped fabrics like corduroy and velveteen, even some wools.




I rarely button up jackets like this but it was very chilly! OK chilly for us here in N. Cal.




By the way - I will do a blog post next on the shirt I'm wearing - it's not quite that color in real live but almost. I just got the latest iPhone and am still figuring out the various photo settings. (and I miss the home button!)

Let's talk buttonholes. I wanted this jacket to have a traditional look so I opted for stitched buttonholes and used my ever trusty Singer and the best buttonhole attachment, and chose the keyhole buttonhole template.






That's my Singer (one of them) and the buttonhole attachment. It works on all the Singer Slant Needle machines.

Here is a sampling of buttonholes made using this attachment. It uses templates, the metal keyhole template is shown below. So you can't change the size of the buttonhole once you have chosen the template. I find the templates available cover all the sizes needed, and since I made this reference sample I've found more templates at sales (including a round one that is perfect for making the holes on a belt).



It's definitely the opposite of electronic - it makes quite a noise but I like it as you can go around as many times as you want, with the exact same pattern so you can make a good thick buttonhole which is ideal for a lot of fabrics. If you're super interested in all things buttonhole then I did a post about this ages ago, with a lot more photos and details plus video of the thing in action.  Here's the link.

Back view, and it fits me a lot better than on this dress form.





A little inside peek because everyone seems to like seeing that :)  I do a combo of hand stitching of seams and fusible interfacing.




Yeah I'm on a roll with the silk shirts lately and now have a few sizable scraps which I'm figuring out how to combine into one jewel toned extravaganza of silk top-ness. Stay tuned!

Note this jacket has shoulder princess seams which make it very easy to get the right fit at shoulders waist and hips. I use my measurements and veer between sizes and then adjust when I have it sewn together, with a bit of nipping in at the waist or hip as needed.






Purple satin lining because that's what I found in my box of linings. A slightly weightier lining but perfect to add a bit of heft to this jacket. I love a nice satin lining and while I don't usually go for any novelty lining a suitably jewel toned one is OK with me.

If you use the search box in the right hand column you can find all kinds of jacket and coat posts with lots of details. Also as I mentioned in my previous post you can look at the Highlight "Wool Jacket" on my Instagram profile page to see all the steps in the wool jacket I sewed recently for Heather.

Up next - I just finished another Burda magazine item, and an ultra suede version of skirt Vogue 1247 - that perennial favorite. Plus a Tamarack jacket as I taught that class over the weekend with lots of really fun jackets accomplished. Coming up a fitting class on Thursday 3/14, and then check the web page for Hello Stitch, classes are really filling up fast. There might be one or two spots open in the wrap dress class which is on Sat. March 23. Something new - I'm going to do a Culotte class as that seems such a great wardrobe item for spring/summer (or anytime). And Ash jeans again - in the beginning of June. Hope to see you there :)

In other news, should I mention that I saw the first tulip in my garden this morning? While we are still in the midst of a very rainy winter (which is great for our water needs!) I think spring is on it's way. At least here it is, I feel for you all in the polar vortex!





Happy Sewing, Beth

today's garden photo, these pink camellias are so messy but such a pretty shade of pink.

Finishing Details: Bound Buttonholes on a wool coat

Let's start with a photo for a change.

I gave a peek recently at this winter coat at the end of a post and it is nearing the finish line. As I sewed the coat I didn't really take many photographs. A black wool coat is not the best subject for detail photographs and I was really concentrating on progress not documentation. However I have been doing the last steps before hemming and thought the back of a bound buttonhole is worth a look.

Bound buttonholes are my go-to solution  on this type of fabric. My Singer buttonhole attachment works really well but the thickness of the finished coat front precludes its use. Also the feed dogs on the attachment tend to shred the fibers a bit, although I have a little trick using a piece of cardstock that I should remember to show one of these days.

Here is the inside of the coat front, with the bound buttonholes sewn.  But not completed! In fact the front is only half the story.

To complete the back here are the steps I use.  

• sew the facings to coat front and give them a proper pressing
• baste the garment edge together in a long running stitch (see below in pink silk thread)
• while coat front is flat on the table, baste around each buttonhole, securing the coat front to the coat facing. This is to keep the facing in the right place relative to the coat front and the buttonholes. (see below in white silk thread)

Now to find where I am going to cut, I place pins through the end of each buttonhole and mark with chalk. 

Then I cut along the chalk mark. The actual cut is very similar to the inverted Arrow shaped cut that is done on the actual buttonholes on the garment front.  Sorry for the out of focus photo here but you can see the chalk marks and the triangle shape cuts.  The most important point here is NOT to cut those buttonhole lips on the front of the garment...which is a bit tricky as the whole thing is sandwiched together with that circle of basting.  

The last step is to tuck those 4 triangle-y bits under and hand stitch all around the edge. It might sound a bit fiddly but it works really well and in this type of fabric the stitches disappear.  Here is the finished buttonhole reverse, just needs some steam to smooth everything out.

Here is another example, on the olive green corduroy jacket I recently made. It is a little easier to see it and I admit, easier to sew it. The black wool plus fusible interfacing made the fabric a bit bulky and not easy to flip those little quarter inch wide flaps inside. 

After all the bound buttonholes are done I like to take a break...or shall I say a sigh of relief? They do make me a bit anxious, despite making them for a good long while. I think because it is so definite - once you make the slice in that coat or jacket front you are commited, no turning back. So time for a small celebration, preferably involving a twist of lemon and some ice cubes tinkling in a glass. You get the picture.

But that is only one side of the coat front, we still have to sew on the buttons. Easy-peasy, right?  This is one of those simple tasks that can elevate a coat to perfectly classy or class clown. I know you have tried on a coat in a store and the buttons were sewn on a bit wonky so that the coat front tugged all the wrong ways, ruining the look. Sometimes sewing students have the tendency to sew the buttons on too tightly causing this same problem.  Buttons need breathing space :) 

For these large buttons a pencil is the perfect size to use as a spacer. I also have a gizmo which I showed in my corduroy jacket post but I find the pencil works really well too. Prior to hemming I sew the buttons on lightly, with just a few turns of the thread, so that in case they are not exactly right I can easily move. It never fails that there is one rogue button needing to be moved by the teensiest eighth of an inch, but what a difference that makes (see above - button wonkiness).

If I haven't convinced you yet that the button needs space, here is proof. That button shank needs to hold the button through almost 1/2 inch of coat front.   On the right is the button sewn on, looking like some weird flying saucer, surverying the sewing room. Getting a look at my yet unfinished fuschia wool jacket in the mirror. But really it's just to show that the button thread shank is important. 

When I finish this coat I will take lots of photos and give details on the pattern(s) used.

Enough about all things button related.  That twist of lemon is calling me.
In other important news, we have Tulips !  oooh I love this photo, so green. We need to enjoy it while we can when the brief green season is here.
Happy Spring sewing, Beth

Random Threads # 24

Thank you so much for all the nice comments on my green wool coat, both here and on Instagram. I really appreciate it and I'm glad that my posts are helpful. There were a few questions left for me about that so here are the answers.

First question asked by several people is about interfacing. For starters, I buy all my interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, which you can find here. Their interfacings are great quality, they are mostly 60" wide which is a good value and just plain useful, and they have a variety of different weights and types for use with any fabric. For coats I use the Pro-Weft Fusible, either the Medium or the Light. For any blazer try the light - for a heavier fabric used for a coat then try the medium. For facings and upper collars I use the Pro-Sheer Elegance which also comes in different weights, and I use them all. They now have a "Couture" weight which is perfect in silk blouses. I also buy their silk organza and then the knit interfacings too.

So that's the scoop on which interfacings. As to where, my sewing motto is more interfacing. I put it on the coat/jacket front, under collar, upper collar, lapel facing, pockets, hems (as shown below). sleeve heads and then anywhere else just seems like it might need it. I also use interfacing to change the entire weight of the fabric, or stabilize a loosely woven fabric (as I did on this boucle outfit for my friend Heather).




Lastly on coats, Nancy K asked "does it really get cold enough there to wear this weight of coat?" Let me assure you, YES! However I must stipulate that I am a winter wimp. Meaning that when the temperature goes below 70˚F then I am freezing. Like super chilly all the time from October to March. Here's my typical winter outfit, say for going out to dinner at a restaurant or a friend's house. 1) silk knit camisole 2) cashmere sweater 3) wool blazer or jacket 4) coat on top of that 5) leather gloves and then jeans or other pants plus boots. You might think I was going to the Arctic but as I said I am a winter wimp. When I see women in the wintertime wearing ankle length pant and ballet flats with no socks I just shudder at the thought! Or friends who say oh I don't need a coat - I will just be running from the car to inside wherever they are going. Brr. Anyway - I like to have layers :) although usually I just take off the coat/gloves and then remain reasonable toasty. So back to our temperatures - I do think it gets cold here. OK not Minneapolis or Rochester NY cold but where I live the Jan average is 36˚/55˚ and we get plenty of nights below freezing.  Across the bay in SF it is more like 46˚/57˚ and it almost never goes below freezing there - thus the bay area microclimates at work. But if you have been to San Francisco in the summer you will know exactly how cold it can be when the fog is swirling and the wind is on the bay. Hey - I come from a family of weather obsessives and the bay area gives us plenty to talk about, with the temperature at one moment differing by 40˚F over a space of 20 or 30 miles. I wonder if that is the case in any other location?

Enough about weather - back to sewing.

Let's talk buttonholes. For my green coat I made bound buttonholes. In large part because the fabric is so thick and I actually can't get the coat front under the presser foot to make machine buttonholes. Although I do like the bound buttonholes on that one. But yesterday I posted an image of my Singer buttonhole attachment on Instagram for the #bpsewvember post: Up Close. And some people agreed - it does make the best buttonholes and others had never seen one of these before. This one came with my Singer 401 sewing machine - which I have been using since childhood. It is my sewing machine dream date - the one that never lets me down. Ok I am biased but if you have never sewn with one of these you don't know what you are missing. Anyway - since it is a straight-stitch-only machine it needs attachments to do the buttonholes (and zig zag but I never use that). They work with small cams that create the buttonhole shape, including the most perfect keyhole. Plus you can adjust the stitch width and go around more than once which gives you the very dense look on a buttonhole that is much more professional looking.




Ages ago I did a post about this attachment, and there is VIDEO! So if you want to see this buttonhole attachment in action check out this post. Video is in the middle of the post.

New topic, Pattern chat: What is up with all the poorly sewn samples where people are trying to sell their patterns? I think it is getting worse instead of better. As I have noted before - I am definitely not the target market for most indie patterns, the majority of which are targeted to new or developing sewers who are looking for extensive instructions along with the pattern. So with that stipulated - I would not be adverse to trying a pattern from a new company if I thought the style was cute, but wow, some of the examples are so bad! It makes me doubt their capability if they can't bother to properly press a garment before it is photographed. Also when it fits the model poorly, or the seams are puckered what does that show? That it is not a good pattern if they didn't even do it?

Speaking of patterns, lately I have been thinking about perceived value as regards to sewing patterns. Perceived value being the worth that a product or service has in the mind of the consumer. I always comment that I think a lot of indie patterns are very expensive - but perhaps that has to do with the fact that I don't perceive any value in the instructions, the booklet with diagrams, or even the packaging. This is probably entirely different from a beginning or newer stitcher, who can use this pattern to learn techniques along with making a garment. I like patterns with multiple views, like a Vogue or Simplicity pattern that includes multiple garments (for example a skirt-dress-jacket-top or 3 versions of a knit top). To me that is more valuable. I bought one Marfy pattern which was relatively expensive, I think around $ 20 when you include the shipping from Italy. It was just one dress style with no variations, no info on yardage requirements,  only the paper pattern pieces, no instructions. Here is my finished dress. After I sewed that I decided it had a high value to me - as there was no tracing involved, the pattern pieces are all cut out and labeled, they did have seam allowances, and fit together perfectly. Also the details in the design were outstanding, especially since it was a relatively simple pattern. So a high value to me and I would buy a Marfy pattern again.

What's next on my sewing table? I'm working on some posts for Craftsy, including one on how-to tips for quickly sewing a party dress. (you know the feeling, party invite +  irrational need for a new dress because nothing in your closet is just right = late night sewing).

Stop me before I make a cape. Why in the world would I make a cape? I dunno, it just looks cute. Plus  plaid - you know I love plaid. But I will restrain myself on this one.





Along with that thought of following trends, I made this tie-neck silk blouse, as a test version for making it in a different fabric. I thought if it worked out I could wear this with my plum wool Burda shawl collar coat.  But I don't like it at all, on me. The neck tie just bugs and I probably would be totally uncomfortable wearing it. However I was happy with my pattern work, as I used my standard Simplicity button front shirt pattern and manipulated to create the changes in design.
The fabric is a stretch silk charmeuse so it feels really nice. Hmmm,  I might just do a giveaway on this one.





That's all my random thoughts for today - and I didn't even get to all of them. Such as the Pantone colors for the upcoming seasons - mostly unappealing, why do I look at them? Exposed zippers - I never think they add anything to a design. Pop ups on sewing blogs pestering you to subscribe to their email list, oh, that drives me crazy.

That's enough ranting for now :)  It's a super sunny day and the garden cleanup chore list is calling my name.

Up next a silk blouse that was a total success and may be my favorite item sewn this year. Until then I hope all your sewing is successful!

Happy Daylight Savings Time sewing - what will you do with your extra hour tonight?
Beth

today's garden photo, these morning glories appear at the end of each summer entwining their way up the fence and clinging to the pink jasmine. I love how it looks illuminated from within.

A new aquisition

It is taking all my will power not to start this post with the phrase "they don't make them like they used to".  Look what I did there, snuck it in anyway.  What does this refer to?

My new acquisition. Which is here on approval, at least in my mind. A few weeks ago I had an incident with my very well-loved buttonhole making attachment. After that a little voice in the back of my mind was whispering about a new machine with the built in buttonhole feature.  After some research I ordered this Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 from Costco and few days later here it is. 

I have been playing around with it for 3 days and tonight I made a top from start to finish which came out fine. For the first hour I really did not like the machine at all and was sure that after a week of fooling around with it I would be standing in the return line at Costco to get my refund. I think with anything I buy these days I kind of dislike it on principal and then slowly get accustomed. 

Maybe the reason I dislike new equipment is that I am the person that reads the manual, a study-er of the printed material, a consumer of instruction booklets. From the Cuisinart to the new printer to the Iphone to the assemble-it-yourself stuff from Ikea, I like to open the box, take out the instructions, examine all the pieces and go through the process of setting up or connecting or whatever else is indicated. Totally nerdy, huh?  As compared to family and friends who mostly fall into the "just open it and plug it in, lets see how it works" camp. 

Oh well, for my new sewing machine I could do it my way, and to my surprise after a few days, I think I like it. It may be a keeper. Except for one nagging little problem which I will get to. But I have to say the manual is not very useful. Really skimpy on the explanation of how to use all the myriad features. 

Let's remember that I have been sewing on this machine since I was 8 years old. This very one! In fact I have 2 of them, one inherited from my grandmother and one which used to live at my mom's house but she never used. Plus I have my Singer 503 which I brought back from Hawaii.

Look at that baby...that soothing coffee and cream color, the warm golden glow of the lamp, the nice open deck, the incredible punching power, the easy maintenance.  It is not going anywhere!

All that Singer love was not the reason I chose the new one, it just happened to be a great deal, had all the features and was at Costco (for you overseas readers - a warehouse store with great deals, lots of gigantic bulk packages, and the most amazing return policy ever).

But my lifelong habituation to a straight stitch only machine may explain why I am starting to bond with this new machine. Please don't laugh now...here are some of the gee whiz features that I am having fun with.

• it cuts the threads
• push buttons for backstitching
• slow stitch mode
• needle up/down button
• did I mention it cuts the threads !!!

Ok, so as I said these are not exactly new developments in sewing machine technology but they are new to me.  Not to mention all those stitches at the push of a button. So far it is actually quite easy to use, although stitch length of 3.5 lingo is not computing in my brain yet, as someone who thinks in 8-12 stitches per inch.  Can someone translate for me?
There are some things I don't like, the light is kind of glaring, the presser foot is clunky and the 5/8" marking, which I actually use is not easy to see. Also the whole thing feels so plastic-y, which I guess is to be expected.  

Recall I mentioned one teensy problem. Ha, a big problem. So far the buttonholes are  #%*$ (swear words).  Here is a example of my attempts. Mostly they came out like the one in the upper left corner. It does one side then goes up the other side and instead of doing the 2nd half it wants to keep going until I stop it.  I am wondering if the problem is the attachment.  I do notice the little bar gizmo you pull down to engage the buttonholer track is wobbly and doesn't seem quite right. I will play with it a bit more and then maybe decide there is a problem. Also see on the sample buttonholes the bar tack at the end is overzealous, a big lump really so that is not acceptable. Doesn't it just figure that the one thing I thought I wanted is not working properly? Although reading lots of blogs or forums on buttonholes has convinced me that the old buttonhole attachment makes vastly superior buttonholes so that is probably the way to go.

This weekend I will play around with it a bit more and see what else it can do. As for actual sewing this time of year I am always busier with custom sewing, so I have been making things mostly for others.

Here is a peek at something I am just completing for my friend Heather. It is rayon jersey that she bought at Britex, kind of light navy blue on white. Super soft and flowy, perfect fabric choice. This Vogue 8787 is a winner in my estimation. For once the construction order is actually reasonable! Also the cowl neckline is very well designed and falls very nicely when worn. I know I will be making this one again. 

                      

I would love to hear your thoughts on new sewing machine selection. What did you choose? and are you happy with it?  Are the old machines better?  (in a word, yes)

Here is an unexpected pleasure in the garden. I used to plant pansies in the late winter but switched to violas (smaller version of this plant) and they are much more hardy, plus reseed all over, in a good way. So this spring I had lots of tiny jewels like this pop up in the lawn.

Happy summer sewing. It is supposed to be over 100 F here this weekend so I anticipate a lot of lounging by the pool and not much sewing.  Well maybe a little.

Beth

Random Threads # 32: after the fact fixes, pocket placement and the old Singer Buttonhole attachment

Time for another Random Threads as my notebook page has quite a few topics jotted down, and for once I can read all my scribblings. Actually after the last few times when I looked at my notebook and realized I had absolutely no idea what I wrote down I've tried to be more careful. After all, a brilliant revelation or hilarious sewing observation could have been lost due to my less than perfect penmanship. Why is my writing so bad? Not sure as I am so fussy in many other things. But it has been this way since I first picked up a crayon and probably not going to change now. (And all of you with lovely handwriting have my admiration:)

First up, Do you do after-the-fact fixes? By that I mean adjust or alter a garment that you have sewn, and likely worn, after it is completed. I do this all the time. Well, not all the time but often. Here are some things I have done: changed sleeve length, changed hem length (those are probably common). Adjusted the center back zipper - even to taking it out and altering fit there and then sewing it back in. Changed a facing to bias binding. Changing armhole shape. Narrowing shoulders. Adjusting sleeve width. Changing the buttons (rarely - as I hate sewing on buttons). Changing the neckline. Adding a drawstring or changing the elastic. Even adding more interfacing if it was possible and I thought the item needed it. All in all, I figure if I liked it enough to finish it and wear it, then a small issue that bugs me can be fixed, and I will like it even more.
My most recent fix is this knit dress. It had an elastic waist and then a tie sash, which didn't seem to add anything. Also I made the elastic too short so it was fine when standing but when I sat down it wanted to roll upwards.

I I took out the elastic, added two buttonholes at the center front, made the elastic about 3/4 of my waist measurement and then made a couple of 1/2" ties which I attached to the ends of the elastic. So now it is a drawstring, with elastic, which is a really nice way to do a drawstring, super comfortable and you never need to adjust it as you wear it. So a tiny refashion and now this dress is 100% satisfactory.

Pocket placement: Do you have an ideal pocket placement idea? I mean the patch pockets on the backside of jeans. When I look at pattern details I feel like Goldilocks - pockets too high, pockets too low, and then just right. Of course just right is in the eye of the beholder. And this beholder likes them right in the middle of the bum, above the crease formed where your cheek meets the top of the thigh. This is for women's jeans, men's are a whole different category. Just personal preference, to me the pockets look out of proportion or misplaced when they are partly on the back thigh. Where they end up has a lot to do with a person's body shape, and length of rise, and if the jeans are high waisted or low rise. You see this more often on guys, I think because on most men their jeans are not held up by the hips as women's usually are, so they tend to migrate downwards, even if they are not intending that look. Sometimes I see a guy with his jeans pockets somewhere south of what looks comfortable (or safe) and you can see the outline of phone and wallet. That's when I think isn't that uncomfortable and or possibly hazardous to your phone screen to sit on it all the time? As a relatively short person 5'3" with a long rise I have been making pants and jeans and thus scrutinizing my backside pockets. Not the most fun in the sewing room but worthwhile to get a fit I like.

News stories about the business of fashion: I love to read business stories that cover fashion and the apparel industry. Inside scoop on a Paris fashion house or behind the scenes peeks at a major magazine or line, yes please! I recently read this one on Bloomberg Business News about LuLaRoe Leggings and the problems with that firm including the speculation that it is a multi-level-marketing scam in addition to a clothing company. Also inter-family drama. Also my opinion - they look like toddler clothes for grown women - which should be the real scandal.

Custom fabric to the extreme: did I show this link before? let's turn to something that made me laugh out loud. And actually show it to a family friend who I thought might want one of these pillows. Result: she did not.

Vintage Singer Buttonhole Attachment: I love my older Singer sewing machines and think that they make the best buttonholes. Plus they do the Keyhole buttonhole which looks so professional on a jacket.  Recently Morgan (@crabandbee) posted a pic of a recently inherited sewing machine which is the same model as one I have. She asked about some of the accessories so I figured I would sift through my photo file and find the slightly blurry video I made a while ago of the buttonholer in action.

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Here's a link to a post I did in 2011 (!) with lots of info, photos of the various parts that are needed for the buttonhole attachment and how they work on the sewing machine. And the video. I just tried to upload it here and it is taking forever, but if you click over to the 2011 post you can see it there.

Topstitching - what is it about this that people love? I like the look of it but I can take it or leave it. Some things look nice with it and I do it but it's far from my favorite component of a project. Some stitchers go into raptures over topstitching...maybe people who love order and tidiness and get a thrill out of those perfectly uniform stitches marching across fabric.

Pattern Review website - do you use? I think a lot of people would agree that it would be great to have a website that incorporates the fun and friendliness of Instagram with the usefulness of Pattern Review. And had a better visual appeal (with no brown  - websites with brown graphics are sort of sad looking). I use PR for pattern evaluation, it's really useful to see the combo of photos of a pattern sewn up, the fabric choice, how it looks on different body types and then read a few paragraphs on the pluses and minus of the design, construction and what the individual person might have done to change up the pattern or make it easier to sew. I also look on Instagram but the specific search result on PR is quite handy. I post reviews because I figure if I am going to use it (for free) I should contribute in the same way. Instagram is a more fun interaction but I am always wanting more info and details than the snippets people post. Picky picky, right?

What makes a well drafted pattern? I see this phrase used often and sometimes I wonder what the person meant by it. It can mean that it sewed up correctly? That the pattern pieces fit together easily? It could mean that it fit well for the size that they chose. It could mean that the designer took into consideration the drape of the fabric and thus it resulted in a nice garment. Maybe just that it was really on trend and so gave the stitcher the item they wanted for right now. Sometimes I see this phrase used and I think the pattern they are referencing might have sewing together with no problems but the torturing of that fabric has turned out an awful result. Interestingly I don't think you can apply this designation to any particular pattern company, each one has some things that go together well and others that look like they were trouble from the get-go. I just sewed up two different wrap dress patterns from the same pattern company, one was great and one was a problem child so I might have more to say on this topic soon.

What is with the terrible darts on the red carpet? I think the most famous offender is Prada and this dress might be from the same design house. I saw this during the coverage of the Cannes film festival and that satin fabric is not helping the matter. But eek, that is not the way I would want a dress to look when being photographed a zillion times. Although the jewels are quite something.



My diagnosis from afar - doesn't it look like there is a structured corset on the inside of the dress and the outer bodice fabric is too long, it should be more taut above the dart ends to avoid that ripple. Who knows and I'm sure these dresses get shipped around the world to wear for just a few hours without the proper fitting they would do if you were a customer. Not that I would buy that dress - the worst color! (although I know some of you love the neutrals!)

Up next, some blog posts on sewing that's not blue - I've been on a blue streak lately but it's time for a different color.  Sneak peek here for an upcoming Wrap Dress Class (Sat. Aug. 4 - choose any wrap dress pattern, or wrap top and we will cover some of the tricks to a good wrap dress fit)



At Hello Stitch Studio: still some spots in my Pattern Reading class this Thursday night 6/14, and then my Skirt class on Saturday 6/16. The studio is closed during the week of July 4. In July we have a Pants Fitting class (limited to 4 people) and also a Button front Shirt class (Tues. 7/17 in the evening) plus another Bondi dress on Aug 12. Everyone is making such cute Bondi dresses - it is the ideal summer dress.

Pattern fitting and adjustment classes include the Pants class mentioned above, as well as another Adjust the Bust pattern fitting (7/15) another Garment Copy (7/22) and a Pattern Hacks class (7/28).  All garment classes are here. 

So plenty to do this summer, and the weather is heating up, which means I can wear my summer dresses, yay! And a sewing meet up with friends later this week that I am really looking forward to.

Happy Summer Sewing,
Beth

today's garden photo, there are so many foxgloves blooming, in shades of white, pink and purple. They even seem to self sow, which I hope means more blooms from the smaller volunteer plants later this summer.











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