In pursuit of lapel perfection

For any project I always feel there is a critical construction element - once I get that right I can breathe a sigh of relief.  For some dresses, it might be the darts.  For a plaid skirt, matching the seams.  For a coat or jacket, the collar and buttonholes are my focus.  For my winter coat, as the pattern was designed, the lapels seemed really large, or maybe just a strange shape, but as sewn up they seem just right.  











It is that seam and inner corner where the collar and lapel meet that are tricky.  
Here are a few notes on construction.

To start I mark the stitching lines on the collar and lapels, being most important to mark the inside and outside corners.  You can see the tailor's tacks in yellow thread.   The fusible is a bit bubbly and not solidly fused as the fabric is so dimensional, but it was sufficient to create the right amound of structure.  The inside corner is clipped to the reinforcing stitching.

Next pin the pieces together.  I start with what I think of as the "anchor" pin,  piercing through the tailor's tack on both pieces and holding them in place.  Then I pin outwards from that inner corner. 




Then stitch between markings being sure to lift the preser foot and pivot at the 
inner corner.    I have always been one to sew over pins, trying now to break myself of the habit, but for something like this I still do it, at least at the inner corner.




Then it is time to trim, press, and catchstich the seam allowances down.  This last step may seem like extra work, but a few minutes of catchstitching really pays off in smooth lapels.   Since everything is interfaced, you really can do it very quickly - you are just catching a few threads of the interfacing and no stitches will show on the other side.  The tailor's tack is still in the fabric, just at the corner so the anchor pin did its job.  

, 

For the lining of this coat, I made some adjustments to the pattern because as designed it had a back yoke and center back seam, which seemed unnecessary for the lining.
To cut out, I pinned those pieces together and then moved them about 3/4" from the fold to create a pleat in the center back of the lining.  This is always a good idea for jackets, allows more movement and gives the lining a bit more room so it doesn't pull at the front of the jacket.


                                             

I think that is enough on this coat.  Time for something new, and preferably quick and easy :)


And here is the only guy doing anything in the garden this week, even though I have plenty I should be doing.  He has dug so many holes I should give him the bag of bulbs to plant.  


Happy Winter sewing, Beth

Winter Coat wrap up plus last day to enter giveaway

Happy New Year to all.  The winter coat from my previous post was finished on New Year's Eve with minutes to spare.  So glad I could wear it then, but the photos had to wait until today. 
Maybe this is my new favorite item of 2010 (surpassing my Vogue 1117 Michael Kors Dress)
I will probably get more wear out of the coat!  

My great friend and neighbor Alice does some of my photos (the really good ones)  but she makes me laugh too much when we have a photo session.  Or perhaps I am just happy that I have finished this project and can vacuum the sewing room floor.  If you would like to see the pattern here is the first post on this project.

I debated here on wool or velvet for the upper collar, to solve the potential itchy wool issue, but decided the wool collar looked so much better.  Thank you to everyone that gave feedback on my question. 

Wool collar

Faux fur collar

I made a detachable faux fur collar, which dressed it up quite a bit.  Not sure I will ever wear it, but fun to have.  It secures with some elastic loops and buttons on the inside of the neckline

The lapels are a bit larger than some styles, so the fur collar has to be big enough to cover them.  

A look at the back, and better view of the lapel and fabric.  Good thing I have never wanted to be a model, I talk to much and crack up laughing during photos, however everything about this coat makes me happy.  The lapels which on the pattern looked crazy big are in reality just to my liking,  the bound buttonholes came out well (always hold my breath until I finish those successfully) and the style and fit are just what I wanted.

Tomorrow I will do a post on some construction details including lapel+collar assembly and changes I made in the lining and coat back.

Until then, thanks for visiting and today is the last day to leave a comment or sign up to follow the blog to be entered in my "sweet" giveaway.


Happy New Year Sewing,  Beth

Coat progress and a question

It was a blustery day here,  perfect to stay inside and sew.  OK - we don't have blizzards or below zero temperatures - but for California it was downright chilly!  My coat is coming along better than expected.  After my last post I played around with my muslin to find the collar roll line, even though I said I was going to skip it.  But this wool is so perfect for steam shaping, so persistence has paid off.    

Before I get to the collar - I have a quibble with the pattern companies on pockets.  On many of the patterns for coats, and dresses too, the pocket is sewn right on the side seam allowance, at about 1/4" from the cutting line.  Then when the side seam is pressed the pocket seam and fabric is really only 3/8" or so distant from the side seam.  I don't like it when I can see the pocket lining, when the wearer moves or sits down.  The best hidden pocket should disappear in to the seam, wherever it is.  I realize that the pocket bag on the back can be of self fabric, but even then that seam could show. This oversight by the pattern designer can be remedied by adding an addition to the side seam at the location of the pocket, and then sewing the pocket pieces on that.  Thus the pocket is tucked about 1" or more away from the seam and should stay hidden.  


While I like multi-size patterns a lot, I think the pattern companies fall back on the excuse of simplifying things like this to eliminate features that you find on higher quality ready to wear or many vintage patterns.  One more reason to look closely at vintage designs, there is a wealth of information in those older patterns and books.


Here is my coat thus far, with under collar sewn on.  Lots more to do before I attach the upper collar and lapel, mostly trim that seam and catchstitch it above and below that seam.  The interfacing used is Pro-Tailor Deluxe Fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply.  

Here is a look at the under collar.  Once I figured out on the muslin where the collar roll line was, I transfered that marking back to the pattern piece.  Then I cut a 2nd layer of interfacing on the straight grain of the interfacing (as opposed to the original layer of interfacing which is on the bias just like the undercollar.  After that I folded the collar at the roll line and placed it around a pressing ham, and steamed it, then left it overnight.  In the morning it was as seen above, with a nice soft roll that will stay, and support the upper collar. 

My question for the day is the following:  Velvet upper collar ?  or continue with same fabric, black wool?   This is just a test look,  black velvet draped over left side and wool on the right.

The velvet looks a bit odd because of the flash.  I was sure I wanted a velvet collar, to make it a bit dressy and I don't like itchy wool on the back of my neck.  It could look like some weird Victorian gentleman's coat.  Which is a nice look but not what I was going for.  I have to see it in the daylight tomorrow but I am almost sure which way to go.

How do you solve the itchy collar dilemma?   Or do you avoid wool entirely?  Let me know what you think.   

Next post, adding darts on the back and my adjustment to the pattern's lining design.

Happy Holiday Sewing,    Beth

Cotton Blouse with variations

This week's project was a pair of cotton blouses.  Last year I saw a segment on a sewing show on PBS that detailed how to sew a stand collar in a different way than is usually specified in the pattern instructions, and is one of the best construction tips I have ever seen.  (nerd alert :  I use my Tivo search feature to find sewing shows)  Below are a few photos that detail this method.  


Recently I saw a review of some sewing DVD's on a great sewing blog, Very Prarie.  Kristin reviews these DVD's she won in a contest.  Reading her blog I realized that the woman on the DVD, Louise Cutting, is the same person I saw on TV.  So if you are looking for some great sewing instruction and tailoring techniques I bet these are worthwhile.


This method eliminates bulk on the front of the collar where the blouse meets the collar stand and gives a nice smooth edge.


First I always use a pencil to mark the sewing 
lines on the collar.  Who cares if there are pencil marks 
on the interfacing, they will be on the inside when 
it is all finished and I like to save myself time and 
eyestrain by sewing along the lines.



Then you attach the two pieces of the collar stand on either side of the blouse neckline and sew them on.  

Next the finished collar is sewn onto one collar stand.

At this point the clever part happens. 

First step,  move the collar and blouse front out of the way, by rolling them away from the sewing area and pinning to hold in place.                   

Then pin the collar stand pieces together and sew just the end of the collar.  The beauty of this method is that you can trim the seam allowances very nicely and turn this section to get a really smooth finish.

At this point you have a finished collar edge and the last step is to finish any trimming needed, and then close up the colar stand by topstitching the collar stand closed.

If you make a lot of collared shirts - I suggest checking out those DVD's or maybe Thread's magazine has covered this method -  I had never seen it before but is really so much better than the directions always given by the pattern companies.  

Here are the finished blouses.  McCall's 5673 which I see today shows out of print but perhaps still available.  

First blouse, I added a self facing down the front instead of a front placket, and put a scallop on the sleeve hem.

Blouse # 2  in a Japanese cotton, teal blue with a dragonfly print.

I added a pleated trim on the sleeve hem, and put a box pleat back vent for ease of movement.

Here is a close up of the sleeve trim.  

Today's SunnyGal Garden photo:    blossoms from my apple tree.   if it were a video clip you would hear the buzz of hundreds of honeybees,  which is great for the tree and the bees.