A very quick post on T-shirts, Sewaholic Renfrew

According to the calender autumn has been here for a few weeks already, however for the most part I am still wearing sandals, shorts and lightweight summer dresses. And that is fine with me :) But one of these days I will need to dig out some sweaters. To that end I bought (finally) the Renfrew knit top pattern, solely for view C which is the cowl-y turtleneck version. Based on this first version I am very glad I did.

This was very much an experimental version using a tissue weight knit I ordered last year from Fashion Fabrics. I wasn't thrilled with when it arrived so I set it aside for who knows what. To make my first Renfrew cowl version I rummaged through my bin of knits, coming across this which seemed fine for a test version. Once I laid it on the cutting table I realized how sheer it was, and having a lot of yardage I decided to do a double layer for the front and back as I have seen on ready to wear. Worked like a charm and I actually do like it, and can see wearing it with my olive green corduroy jacket. Two items totally outside my usual color range but maybe time for some variety?

Here you can see how thin the fabric is.

One of my layers was a bit raggedy as I was near the edge of the fabric and I meant to put that on the inside, but as you can see I did not. Oh well. I decided to leave the edges raw because I liked the look plus how could one hem that fabric? I'm sure there is a way but it seemed like a very fiddly fabric to hem.

Here is the pattern envelope showing the options. I also made the neckline of Version A on another top to see where that landed on the body, and as a comparison to my Jalie T-shirts which I really like.

This version below was definitely a test, just to see if I liked the shape and the neckline. On this pattern I made a size 10 and I really like how the armholes fit, although I narrowed the shoulders a bit on the version above. The top of the sleeve seam was about 3/4 inch further out than it should be but that is just my usual knit top adjustment. The top below is kind of a goofy knit I just bought at an ASG sale, it is the same type of knit as you find in golf shirts so not super stretchy. I will probably shorten the sleeves to a very small cap sleeve, take it in at the waist and maybe even cut the hem band off. Not crazy about that, I think a regular t-shirt hem would look better, but it is a good idea in terms of not having to do a hem on tricky fabrics. I think I prefer the neckline and band on the Jalie pattern so I will probably to some blending in the future if I make any more tees. Happy on the stripe matching if I do say so. There is a little bit off at the front upper arm but hey, the back looks good!

                        

As for my next project, I have tentatively stuck my toe into the French jacket pool and hope to have that finished this weekend. Not really an authentic version - more like a "faux" French jacket but something for myself to work out the details on fit and finish. My mom has always wanted one so perhaps hers will be the real thing, hand-sewing and all.

Here's hoping all your halloween costume sewing is completed by this weekend so you can move on to other things!
Happy Sewing, Beth

My SunnyGal garden photo for today, getting to be slim pickings this time of year, although I did spy a camelia yesterday. This one is basil, going to flower now with a background of red hibiscus.

Sewaholic Thurlow Pants Pattern - I recommend!

Pants.  The word strikes fear into the hearts of many sewers, mine included.  Is it an exaggeration to say a good pants pattern is the holy grail of any sewers' wardrobe?  I have been on a quest to find a workable pants pattern for about 3 months, since I foolishly threw caution to the winds, abandoned my facility with dresses and selected V1143 as an outfit that I would make as nominated by one of my blog readers, Ruta.  I have no problem with the pattern, and everyone who comes into my sewing room remarks on how cool the jacket is (gathering dust on one of my dress forms these many months).  But finishing this ensemble requires making pants, something I used to do occasionally but not for a while.

I had made 5 various pants muslins (yes, 5 different patterns, the horror)  3 were paper patterns, and 2 were garment clones of existing pants.  They varied from frightful to just OK, but none were really wearable. So when Tasia asked for pattern testers for her newest Sewaholic design, I responded immediately.

Now the pattern is available for sale and I recommend you give it a try.  Pants are so tricky, they are a multi-dimensional puzzle and a moving target over a lifetime of sewing, however this pattern has lots of nice details that should appeal to many. I have a difference of 12 inches between waist and hip measurement, so her pattern takes the "curvy" figure into consideration which is useful.

My favorite thing about this pattern is way the pocket and fly turn out.  Very easy to do, and the result is like (or maybe better) than RTW.  For my first attempt I was in a super rush and so made some shorts, mostly so I could give feedback on the pattern markings, fly and pocket construction, etc. I used some denim-look fabric, a poly-cotton plus lycra blend that I bought on super sale at the big chain ("she" who must not be named, formerly a fabric store but now a craft monstrosity, he he). Here are my shorts, which have been worn and washed multiple times already so they have that lived-in look.  I did use the shorts portion of the pattern, and then tapered the legs in quite a bit, as they are slightly wide in order to be able to cuff them as shown on the pattern. 

As per my usual tendency I did make one change to the pattern, and cut the waistband in half so I had 4 pieces, a right and left front and then right and left back waistband.  No matter what I make or buy, things are generally too big in the waist if they fit my hips, so taking in a bit on the side seam as well as the generous center back seam is a necessity. 

Here is a look at the zipper fly, which comes out really well. In fact when I wrote feedback to Tasia I told her I liked the fly but would probably make a cut-on fly next time I made the pattern. However when I made a 2nd pair, I used her fly pattern pieces and now I think they are super, so she has changed my mind! 

The shorts in action.  As it turns out, I have finally made something that fits into my actual everyday life, i.e. shorts with a t-shirt (my favorite t-shirt bought in Kailua town, Oahu, one of the best places on earth...but I digress).  Looking a bit wrinkly, and shirt tucked into waistband to show off the pockets, photo taken on the last evening of the sewing lesson marathon with my recent student Karen.

I also made some pants, not my best stitching and a couple of embarassing sewing errors so if you are really interested you can see the photos in this Flickr set. 

What am I saying here?  "Enough already with the photos.  Put down the camera. Hand me a beer. Look at my cool summer shorts.  They are just like my RTW shorts but I made them. Try this pattern, it is great. Where is my beer?" 

So I am two-for-two with Sewaholic pattern success!  following my Cambie dress.  Thank you to everyone who wrote such nice comments here and on pattern review. That is definitely one of my floral print dresses that falls into the wearable (and re-wearable) category.  But stay tuned for more of my one-hit wonders, there are more to come. To take a different turn this week, I have completed some knit tops, yeah! Trying to keep to my new plan to create useful separates.  

Happy Summer Sewing, Beth

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

Oh my gosh, someone stop me before I make another floral dress !  

However when they turn out so well I can't help myself. When my recent sewing student, Karen, was here we did a tour of my closet and she was dazzled by the selection of various bright floral dresses, some which have rarely seen the light of day. I really don't need another. However I am a big fan of Tasia and her Sewaholic website, in fact I have tested a couple of patterns for her, so it was time I purchased a pattern and supported her company. I decided to support independent businesses two ways. Tasia had mentioned recently that more retailers were stocking Sewaholic patterns, including my favorite local store, Stone Mountain and Daughter Fabrics, so I bought the pattern there.

The Sewaholic Cambie Dress, made in a lightweight cotton sateen that has a touch of lycra. I made Version A, with the A-line skirt and angle pockets.  I changed the sweetheart neckline to a straight across the front bodice.  I am not really a sweetheart neckline type, in fact this dress is pretty far on the sweetness scale for me, but I think it worked out and I will get plenty of wear this summer. I have a lot of sundresses that are a bit more bare, so this dress is summery but not strappy, if that makes sense. 

I made a few changes on the pattern (when don't I ?).  It is slighly unusual to have a bodice + skirt style of dress that has a waistband, and I like to be able to sew up the side seams last, for fitting purposes, so I split the waistband into front and back waistband pieces, adding seam allowances.  Also for the pockets, I like the pocket lining that touches the skirt portion to have a slippy quality, since cotton on cotton sometimes has a tendency to stick, so I cut the pocket piece in half and made the pocket facing side in a scrap of acetate lining.  That way the floral fabric completes the skirt side but the lining fabric is lightweight.

Part of the reason for these 2 changes (pocket and waistband) were construction methods I use, but the other reason is fabric availability. Does this fabric look familiar?  I made a dress a while ago for Lia, my hair stylist, that used this fabric, and then from the remaining scraps I made a skirt for myself.  That used up all the fabric, but then I took a shopping excursion with my friend (fabric enabler) Alice to a shop in Oakland, Happy Stop Fabrics.  It is a little hole in the wall store, filled with fabric remnants and lots of weird poly fabrics, lots of knits, and a few goodies among the oddball stuff. I found a piece of this fabric and bought it along with a ton of other cotton poplins for very little money. Yards and yards which I have used in my Etsy shop. So that was quite a good haul on the first visit, last week we went back and were uninspired. I think it is totally hit or miss, but so inexpensive that it is worth a try. 

The piece I bought of this coral/black print was 48 inches wide, length of 1 yard 23 inches.  The Cambie dress calls for 2.5 yards of 45" or 2 yards of 60".  Don't ask me how I squeezed the pattern pieces on my fabric, I couldn't tell you. I did cut the dress out at the size 0 hemline since it seemed to be fairly long and I am not.  Otherwise I cut out a size 8 bodice and a size 10 skirt, that seemed to work out well, although I did take out about 1" in the center back seam since it was gaping a bit at the back neckline when I basted the zipper in to check. I lined the bodice in white cotton but the skirt is unlined.

I love this fabric's color combination, coral is one of my favorites.  I don't usually wear black, so this is as close as I get to a black dress.

OK - enough with the dresses for a while.  If I write it here, then it is so.  (maybe, until I get a bug in my head for some other style)  Separates - must make some separates!   Actually I  have a shirt started and have been playing around with T-shirt neckline bindings.

Update:  I have received lots of affirmative replies to our sewist/blogger meetup and group lunch at the Gaultier exhibit,   A great group of bay area sewists are planning to meet (or meet again) and talk fashion, sewing, patterns, and more.  I have had a couple of emails asking if there is space for another person, and the answer is an unequivocal YES.  Unlimited room - please come.  If you are concerned you will not know anyone - no worries, it is a great group and very welcoming.  See you on June 23, 10 am at the De Young museum, SF Golden Gate Park.

Here is today's SunnyGal garden photo - an action shot (ha ha), more like a photo outtake. Check out those hydrangeas - starting to bloom all over the garden.  And a look at the dress without my hands in the pockets.  ooo - love a dress with pockets :)
Happy weekend sewing, Beth