Coat completed: Burda 7169 in camel wool from Britex

Finally it's time to show the finished coat. And well past time, as I finished it back in November so Heather could take it on a Thanksgiving trip to the east coast. We took some very quick photos on the day she picked it up so they are very casual but I like the autumn feel. Because around here we don't get all that much fall color - but do get plenty of leaves to sweep up. 

Here are the previous posts for this coat construction if you are looking for sewing details:   First blog post and second blog post. 

The fabric was from Britex in San Francisco, on that same shopping trip we also bought a navy blue wool. With that fabric I'm making the Auburn blazer from Cashmerette and I hope to get to that project in the next month. 

I'm really happy with the lapels on this coat, they came out very nicely and the pattern sewed together so well.

Just as a reminder, here's the coat that that was the inspiration.

I think with coats it's all about the interfacing. I put weft interfacing on the under collar and coat front and then lightweight interfacing on the upper collar and the lapel facing. 

Here's a few more looks at the insides. I put weft interfacing on the bottom edge, cut with pinking shears to soften the edge, and I always have it continue up past where the hem is folded. It means you can hand stitch the hem and pick up the threads of the interfacing with the thread and then the hem stitching will not show on the right side.

I tend to baste hems before I stitch them. They could just be pinned but I like to baste at the hem fold and then I can decide how deep to make the hem and trim to that amount. 

Inside hems on thick fabrics it's helpful to trim the seam allowance back so that as it is folded up and laying against the seam allowance so it's less thick and softens that edge. As mentioned I didn't take a lot of pictures so we have to make do with a blinking one but I think this coat can work as dressy or casual, depending what it's paired with. She wanted it to be roomy so she can wear a thick sweater underneath. 

Sewing room realness - complete with all the scraps that I toss onto the floor.

I like the detail of the walking pleat at center back and I generally hem the underneath side every so slightly shorter than the side on the outside so that it never peeks out of the bottom. Eventually these hems are covered with the lining which I hand sewed at the hem. 

So that's the latest on this beautiful coat. The fabric is SO soft to touch. 

In other sewing news I have sewn another pair of Ash jeans for myself - can't stop, won't stop :)  and I think I might make a knit top as a little palate cleanser before I start my next projects.  Including the above mentioned Auburn Blazer from Cashmerette. My first time using a Cashmerette pattern and I have Thoughts! which I will share. First impression is quite good but definitely some things that bug me - which applies to any pattern brand, I always find a few things to criticize. 

This week we are supposed to have more rain and freezing temps here, so my gardening is still on pause - and we do need the rain despite that deluge in January. But I see some signs of spring and it will be here in an instant. 

Happy Sewing,

Beth

Today's garden photo - the February reliable for N. California is camellias. They were ubiquitous here in previous decades but seem to have gone out of popularity. I can see why they were used often, very tough, green all year and need almost no attention. But they are also very messy (dropping all those flowers which only bloom for a very short time. I've taken out several that might have been here at this house way before me but I've kept a couple. Mostly due to the trouble of removing and also they do bloom when most everything else is doing nothing. Plus this one is filled with sticky nectar and the bees love it. 

 

Part 2: Burda 7169 classic coat in camel wool from Britex

Time to show the rest of the construction of this coat so I can post the finished look. Here's the first post on this project. 

Let's skip ahead to some fit refinements as everyone likes to see those. I did all the interfacing and then machine basted the coat together for a try-on. I find that even if you fit something in muslin then the thickness and weight of the actual fabric plus interfacing does have an effect that differs. Here I thought that the princess seam above the bust was a bit bulky and not laying smoothly on the upper chest so I just changed the seam every so slightly to correct that. I think the left shows it just basted and then on the right is the inside, it's just about 1/8" of an inch in that hollow of the chest but it makes a nice difference in fit. 

I will say this fabric is a bit fussy, as the two sides are just very slightly different but very hard to distinguish. So I probably went overboard with marking with wax chalk and even spots of blue tape on the wrong side of every piece. I don't know how people use pattern weights - I like to keep the paper pattern piece on my cut out pieces until the minute I need it to sew. And using a projector to cut out sounds like a nightmare. I probably don't understand it and this method works for me. 

Sometimes I think making a coat is mostly fusing the interfacing! And wondering when can I get to the actual sewing.  I used Fashion Sewing Supply Pro-Weft Supreme Light for this coat (and basically for all coats and jackets). They have the same in "medium" but I have found that too heavy for most anything I have sewn with jacket or coat fabrics. I think the key to choosing interfacing is to support the garment fabric and not change it substantially (unless that is the intent). 

Before I get very far along I have to decide about the buttonholes, because if I am going to have bound buttonholes they need to get made prior to sewing on lapel facing. I will say that I have never made a hand worked buttonhole - it's on my list of things I need to teach myself how to do. But this coat was not the time to try it. And the machine buttonholes just look wimpy on this coating fabric. 

I found these buttons at Stone Mountain and they were exactly what I was looking for.  I have written lots of posts previously on doing bound buttonholes on the front of a coat, and if you want to see the details here are a couple of links: Red coat and scroll down on this plaid coat post.

I think it's interesting that most of the coat and jacket patterns I have made recently (at least all the European ones) have this construction of collar with the small stand, and neither piece is cut on the bias. I find it a bit odd although it works fine. This is as compared to a one-piece under collar cut on the bias.

Here are the sleeves ready to go, with interfacing around the armhole and also at the hem.  Because I made a muslin and marked the exact sleeve length I could adjust the length and then hem them before attaching to the coat. Also because I sew the lining in by hand as opposed to bagging the lining.

Here's the inside of the coat with just the last steps of attaching the sleeves and then the hem plus lining. The buttons are sewn on because I always complete the front closures before doing the hem, this insures that the front overlaps nicely and the hem is even at the center front.  Note this pattern had in-seam pockets but I changed that to welt pockets across the front princess seam. 

Still a few steps to finish the sleeves, doing the sleeve heads and putting the shoulder pads. 

The next post will be some details on hemming and the finished coat photos.

Since my recent foot surgery (almost at 4 weeks now) I think I will be back to driving later this week although no long trips. And not much work in the garden - it feels ok if I walk very gingerly but I think I need to take it easy for a couple more weeks. I guess that means more sewing! 

Up next, I'm making some more corduroy jeans, and then I might squeeze in a wool jacket for myself before the temps warm up. What I really should do is finish my closet cleaning which I promised myself to do during this stuck-at-home time. 

Who knows, I might find some gem in my fabric stash, it does seem to suprise me with stuff I forgot all about!

Happy Sewing,

Beth

Here's today's garden picture - We have daffodils! as well there should be, I planted about 80 bulbs in the fall and always forget where I put them so it is a happy suprise when they pop up. Also note on that rose bush all those stems popping out. Spring is coming :)

Vogue 1412 Rebecca Taylor top in silk crepe de chine from Britex

Sometimes I wonder if I can sew a pattern as is - meaning without changing the design in some detail, whether large or small. There is always some feature or detail that I modify, redesign, leave off, or just ever so slightly tweak to suit my personal taste. When I sew pattens that are going to be examples at Hello Stitch I do mostly sew the pattern as is, and find it is so quick! Not changing things means I can just sew like the wind, without pausing to contemplate the design and get bogged down in some tiny detail. However when I make things for Heather, it is a collaboration and often she shows me an item in ready-to-wear that she likes and wants to recreate in her specific fabric. Mostly it is a collection of details, a collar here, or a skirt there that add up to a particular feeling in a garment.
So lately we have been trying to work through the collection of blouse weight silks she bought at Britex last fall. They mostly coordinate with the 2 blazer jackets I made for her in the winter, using McCalls 6172 which you can see here and here.

This blouse is Vogue 1412 by designer Rebecca Taylor. Here it probably looks just like the version on the pattern envelope but I did make a substantial change, in that it now buttons down the center front. The pattern is designed as a popover, which goes over the head and has no opening at the center front.





I sewed View B which has gathers at the shoulder and center back neckline. The front V-neck does have some buttons but it is all one piece across the front and then a fold creates the overlap which is buttoned. I can't even remember if it actually opens in the pattern instructions. OK I just looked at them and you do make a working buttonhole closure there but the front is cut on the fold so I think it is just a lot of work for not a real opening. In any case, Heather likes a top that actually opens at the front instead of pulling over the head, and she wanted a hidden buttonhole closure. Well as you might know I LOVE a hidden buttonhole front shirt so that was a challenge I was ready to accept.

Here it is in the finished version and then I'll show you how I got there.




Here's the technical drawing for this pattern. It has two completely different tops in the pattern, which is one of the things I love about Vogue patterns (and this applies to Simplicity, McCalls and New Look as well). Often there are multiple garments in one pattern envelope, sometimes an outfit and sometimes just more than one garment. In any case, for this one I was making ViewB.





Here's the image of the pattern piece from the instruction sheet. It's pattern piece 10 for the front, and it is cut on a single layer and then marked with the fold/pleat lines. However it did have the center front marked so I used that as a starting point to figure out how to change it up.




First I cut the piece 10 in half keeping track of where the center front line was, as that would be where the buttonholes would be.
Then I added seam allowance from the garment edge. Lastly I adjusted the neckline facing (piece 12) which I made continue as a long facing for the center front edge. I changed the grainline on that as well, cutting it on the straight grain of the long section (ignoring the existing grain line).



For pattern size alterations, I did add a bit on the side seams and added length which would have been taken up with a dart, but in trying on a sample garment I determined that a dart was not needed, there was adequate fullness due to the shoulder gathers. (which pattern making-wise is really a bust dart manipulated into shoulder gathers, I just looked through my old posts and I thought I had done a post on this but I guess not, so that will go on the to-do list).
The bust dart was removed on the final version, but I did add 1/2' in extra width vertically that you can see above, just a tiny insurance policy for a full bust.

Here is the hidden buttonhole closure after I made the buttonholes. Actually I sewed them before I attached the facing, they go on the facing and then that facing is sewn to the shirt front, stopping and starting where the opening is to allow it to button. I've done a number of posts that show this and how to do it, the best one if you want to se  it step by step is this post where I changed the coat closure to have the hidden buttonholes.  I also wrote a post on the Craftsy sewing blog (now Bluprint) and all those articles and tutorials are still there. Here's the link to that post, complete with a color-coded example which makes it easier to follow.




The one thing that kind of stopped me in my tracks was the final line of stitching that closes up the buttonhole closure and attaches it securely to the shirt front.
While I was happy with the way the print aligned across the front (it's not really a stripe or a plaid but the print has something of a horizontal and vertical pattern), I noticed that where I needed to sew down the buttonhole placket was right in the middle of a row of black and cream segments. So using either black or white thread, or one of the other colors would have been noticeable in a way that I didn't like.
To solve that issue I changed the thread on each segment from black to cream, and then back again. It was about 8 changes and it was accomplished about 10 minutes, so not all that much trouble and worth it to get this look. If you examine closely you can see the cream color thread and the black thread. I pulled the tails through and knotted each one so it would stay stitched in place. Yeah, kind of fussy but I was happy with it.



Back view of this top. I really like how the front neck section continues and you seam it in the center back to create the back of the collar.  With all this gathering the pattern really requires a very flowy and soft fabric, so silk crepe de chine is ideal and a lightweight rayon woven would be great as well.
And I notice - all my dress forms are so crooked! I think because I'm moving them all the time and am not particularly gentle so perhaps the insides get bent a bit.



The way the top of the center front curves meant that I couldn't get the top button as close as I would like to the top so I put a tiny snap there to keep it shut.  Since the buttons are hidden I used some that matched well enough for the center closure.



For the sleeve cuffs I found 4 other buttons in my stash that coordinated a bit better, and I used grey thread for the buttonholes to make it mostly neutral. I made the buttonholes on my Singer Quantum machine, and they are just OK. Nothing will make buttonholes as well as my old Singer 404 which I could have busted out for this but didn't.  On a soft silk blouse I like to use the continues bias binding in self fabric for the cuff opening.









So that's the latest on this Vogue pattern. I so appreciate the emails and comments I receive here and on Instagram saying that you like reading about things I sew for Heather so I will certainly continue. This summer might be about the pattern repeats for her as we have a few things in mind that will reuse patterns. After going to the trouble to fit a pattern I always want to reuse it and see how I can make it look differently by changing up the fabric or styling.

Up next at Hello Stitch, tomorrow will be my Lander pants class (again, I think this is the 5th session?) and we are doing some new classes this summer, including two others that use True Bias patterns (Ogden cami top on Sat. June 2 and Emerson Pants on Sat. June 29). With the Mother's day and Memorial day weekend in May we don't have as many classes scheduled that month. And then some new ones in June, July and August. Here's the link to the Garment Sewing Classes page where these are all listed. Most all of our classes are selling out so if you are interested sign up soon!

May 4:                          Copy a Garment Class, a few spots still available.
June 1 and June 8:        Make your own Jeans, Ash jeans pattern
June 2:                          Sew the Ogden Cami
June 9:                          Knit T-shirt class
June 22:                        Fit Lab: morning, pattern fitting basics, measuring, common adjustments
                                                   afternoon, fit your own pattern
June 29:                        True Bias Emerson pants class, a wide leg pant that works as culottes or shorts
July 14                          Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress, including learn to set in a sleeve
July 28:                         Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory (I'm looking forward to trying this one)

Update:  Jacket weekend workshop will be the weekend of Sept 14-15 and we will be making the Jasika Blazer from Closet Case Patterns (however as usual if you have a different jacket blazer pattern you want to do that is OK with me).

What have I been sewing? I just finished another pair of Ash jeans from Megan Nielsen patterns, in a questionable sparkly denim which I will show you soon. Although I will confess I've been wearing them plenty. I want to sew up that ruffle hem dress from the Burda mag and then I just got some great striped cotton for a new T-shirt (Girl Charlee fabric, which I have had great luck with as long as I stick to the cotton/lycra jerseys).

Time to get outside now on this gorgeous spring Saturday. The tomatoes are planted, the roses are blooming and if I could just get the drip irrigation to work properly all would be right with my garden world (the perpetual spring problem!).

Happy Sewing, Beth

This yellow one wins the race for the first rose bloom in my garden. Since I took this picture there are plenty of other blooms as well. They do best this time of year, once the July heat arrives they get a bit tired, as well all do 😊.

McCalls 6172 Wool blazer version 2 in Shetland wool from Britex in SF

This jacket shows why I like to make a pattern more than once. When you find a good pattern and get all the fit adjustments worked out, then why not make it multiple times? After all, our wardrobes consist of a lot of basics, be it button front shirts, or a pencil skirt, a fit and flare dress, a knit t-shirt. It's the fabric that makes things look completely different, and also the small details like stitching, pockets or even length that change up the look a lot. I find myself less interested in buying new patterns, particularly for items when the patterns are often so similar. But fabric, I have a lot of restraint but I could find endless pieces to add to my stockpile.

Fortunately my friend and muse Heather usually knows exactly what she is looking for, and when we make a trip to Britex we always find it. How could you not?  their selection is amazing. I grant that you don't go there for bargains or bulk buys. Last time we went shopping we selected this wool as well as 3 silks for coordinating tops. (I say we, because she lets me have a veto which I do exercise against really tricky plaids and stripes).

We took these photos early on a Sunday morning when we were both free. She was on her way to her office to get in some quite-time work undisturbed by clients or her employees. So it was a jeans and t-shirt day but perhaps that shows the versatility of a nice blazer jacket - you can toss it on over just about anything and look put together.

I have a lot of photos of the construction on this jacket - far too many to post but as I was constructing this jacket I took pictures and video which I uploaded to my Instagram Story and saved to a Highlight.




A lot of people have viewed as I've posted this over the past months and I appreciate all the comments and direct messages 😊. The whole series is there and I'll leave it up so it will be a reference.
But for those of you who like to see the insides of garments - here is a sampling of what I included in the Highlight.



Jacket front. I do my own thing when it comes to interfacing, and it all depends on the weight and structure of the fabric. Let's get a round of applause for this pattern which has the collar and lapel roll lines marked on the pattern. You can see that I mark the angles on corners which makes stitching so much more accurate and it goes faster as well. Also I always want to make sure the two jacket fronts are exactly the same so more markings help with that.



Above, collar attached and now clipping, trimming and grading seam as needed, prior to catch-stitching it down with silk thread.






Somebody is liking their pockets!
Since I did a fair amount of fit adjustments to the front pattern pieces I had to decide where to place the pockets and I'm very happy with how they turned out. Here's a look at them in progress. Again the color of this fabric is so different in every picture.



By the way - as I mentioned above this is the second time I've made this pattern, both for Heather. The first one was a solid navy blue that was really a test version - here's the blog post on that one which has a lot of the info on making fit adjustments on this pattern as well as some other info.








Lining sewn in by hand, and a small pleat at the bottom edge so that the lining has space to move and not tug on the bottom edge of the jacket when worn.



Side view and you can see how a two-piece sleeve curves nicely to follow the shape of the arm. Also in the background is a jacket I've sewn for myself, another version of the Pauline Alice Saler jacket in wool with a velvet collar. I started Heather's jacket the week after Christmas and since I had already made one version I just needed her to come by for a final fit check on this one. But she had the bug that was going around so it ended up being postponed for several weeks - but I was still in wool jacket making mood so I decided to do that one. And have already worn it a couple of times. It goes so nicely with a couple of silk shirts - a blog post on those items next.
Also in view is my sewing room table, which is not the most beautiful worktable you can see on the web but it is really functional. I got a few questions on that so in my next Random Threads post I'll show some details and tips on how I made it.



I love this picture! It really shows how well the lining color and the buttons complement this. Which should be credited to the lovely salespeople at Britex who know what they have in stock.

Here are the 3 silks we also found that day which will be tops to go with this jacket. Not sure which fabric will be used for what top pattern I just got Vogue 1412 so that will be for at lease one of these.






Someone really likes that fancy lining :)



So that's a wrap on this wool jacket. Is it spring yet?  Although last week I traced a couple of distinctly wintery patterns from the recent Burda mags so I will have to get to those quickly.

Update on classes at Hello Stitch Studio:  Classes are filling up quickly - so if you want to register I suggest not waiting. I do have a fitting class on a weekday coming up, on Thurs. March 14. After that we still have some spots open in the Wrap dress class (Sat. Mar 23) and in April we have a Lander pants class (always fills up fast) and the Bondi dress class. Tessuti patterns has come out with a really nice new dress pattern, the Coni dress so if the sleeveless Bondi dress is not for you perhaps the alternate one will be just the thing.

Jacket making is in the air - have you seen the sneak peeks of the new Closet Case pattern? which will probably be available to order when you read this. I'm starting to plan for a Jacket Making weekend workshop in October, as I've had a few people from out of town ask me if we are doing that this fall. Since we have a bit of time I'm open to suggestions and questions. It will definitely be a Sat. and Sunday class, but possibly we could add a shopping day and a dinner together. All kinds of possibilities. Message or email me if you want to make a suggestion or with questions. By the way - tentative date, the weekend of October 19.

Happy Sewing, Beth

today's garden photo, this camellia which has big sticky blooms that the bees and hummingbirds love, but if you look closely at the photo above you can see that they fall in a messy heap creating an unintentional red carpet. That red/yellow combo though, so striking.