New Pattern Reviews: Butterick 6862 blazer and VikiSews Lora Pants

This year I'm going to try and do more posts about the patterns that I sew, with sewing details and definitely some critiques. When I make things for myself it's usually for one of the following reasons.

1. I need an item to wear to an event. (although events have been thin on the ground as we well know these past 18 months. Also my closet could probably yield anything required).
2. A new-to-me pattern that I just feel like sewing. It could be a new release pattern, something that catches my eye, or a vintage pattern. But at the moment I notice it I can imagine how I might wear it, and then my "must make" urge sets in. 
3. Fabric attraction. Very often I come across a fabric that appeals and I just want it in my wardrobe. 

I think most every who sews and reads this blog can relate to these feelings. Some people are wardrobe planners but I've never been that way, no plan for the year or pledge to sew up specific things. But I'm always on the lookout for novelty and yet I do repeat patterns a lot. For my Blazer Jacket class that I taught online last fall in addition to the Jasika blazer that I made for my friend I decided to try a jacket pattern that was a new release from Butterick. 

To sum up my response to this jacket pattern - I didn't like it! The fabric I used ended up being problematic (more on that below) but in general the pattern didn't work out for me and I will explain why. 

Although some of you might take one look at the color and blame it on that :) which is understandable. Also I didn't really need a matching pair of pants but wanted to further refine this VikiSews pants pattern and had the fabric to make them. 

To review:  I was looking to make a blazer during my class to show some construction techniques and also I wanted to make something different than a blazer pattern which I have made already 3 times, that being the Pauline Alice Saler blazer. Here's a look at one of my favorite versions. I've made a blazer with peak lapels as this Butterick blazer has, and I wanted to make a single breasted jacket as I have a double breasted version - which was also a success. But you know the desire to try something different always gets you when looking at patterns. Also this is a Palmer and Pletsch pattern and I've had such good success with those patterns. But this one - not so much.

Here's the pattern envelope image and the technical drawing.

Once I start sewing things I get very particular on details such as the shape of the lapel or angle of the pocket. But for once I was determined to sew up a pattern as is so I could follow the instructions and discuss the steps in the class. As it turned out almost every one was making the Jasika or McCalls 6172 which is a good pattern I've recommended a lot. So in the end I didn't really need a second example to sew along with the class. But since I had started it I did continue. 

So what didn't I like about this pattern? I started with my usual size 12 in Vogue/Butterick/McCalls and yet I found this jacket very oversized in a way that it didn't appear on the pattern. The shoulders were a good inch wider than other jackets I have and I moved the sleeve cap in about 1/2". The slanted welt pockets didn't appeal to me, I preferred the flap pockets so I used the front hem shape from View B and the pockets from View A. Now looking at it I don't really care for that much of an angle on the front pockets, maybe just a look I have to get used to. The sleeves were really a problem, they were huge! in terms of width, like at the elbow way too wide. It's a two piece sleeve so I narrowed it using those seams but I still think they are a bit big. My biggest issue was with the lapel design. 

I think they are just an awkward shape and I've made other jackets with this lapel which seemed more elegant to me. I took these pictures showing the inside and outside of my lapel, before and after changing the shape so you can see that I sewed it very accurately and didn't have an issue with pressing and trimming. So I decided to do some redesign on the lapel shape and changed it into more of a standard notch lapel. It still looks a bit out of proportion to me but I think it looks better.

Now onto the fabric issues. I fully admit that this was a piece of fabric that was given to me so I had no investment in this project (other than time and interfacing). The color was pretty albeit a bit on the vibrant side, even for me. It seemed like a nice woven wool. But it was evil! There was something about this fabric that didn't press correctly and I've never run into this issue before. Sometimes sections would press perfectly well, and other areas would give a strange result, kind of a rippled bubble effect. 

Here's an example.  Look at that sleeve, I have pressed it normally and those wavy rippled lines appear. Sometimes I could press them out and other times pressing would make them appear. It was maddening. 

Other areas pressed fairly well, both pockets came out OK which was good. By the way I bought that beautiful single button at Stone Mountain. So glad they are open for shopping again as their button wall is my go-to for perfect buttons, particularly for jackets and coats. 

Here's another area that is a bit wavy, the lapel. Although I think I pressed this multiple times and got it to settle down. Using this fabric just reinforced my opinion that the plaid wool I used in the Jasika jacket was perfection. 

I think you can see how wide it is at the back of the armhole. I did make a muslin and moved the armhole in but it didn't seem quite so problematic. I figured it would hang differently (better) in wool than in a cotton muslin. Wrong!  In any case this whole project was just a disappointment and I don't have that happen very often. 

Shall we talk about something else?  I'm really impressed with VikiSews patterns. I bought this pants pattern to try them out, and they fit very well right from the start. 

The VikiSews patterns are single size patterns and I prefer that. I think for pants it's a lot easier to just start with your hip measurement, choose the size and then adjust other sections, like waist or length, as needed. I chose the size closest to my hip measurement and the website tells you how much ease is in a particular style. For this pattern the hip ease is 4 cm. so about 1.5 inches.  That's the total difference between your body and the finished garment, which seems about right for close fitting pants. 

Things I like about these patterns:

1. The crease lines are indicated and you use those in the pressing to shape the pants.
2. The pattern markings are excellent.
3. The shape of the hips and crotch curve are more like ready-to-wear pants or at least pants that I own.
4. The instructions are very detailed and specific on how to shape the pants front and back using pressing/steam before you ever sew a stitch. This is how I learned to make wool trousers and it really builds in fit and shaping before you even sew. 
5. The instructions are photographs and are extremely detailed so you can't really go wrong. 

Once again I will blame this annoying fabric for my less than stellar pressing. Also if I were planning to wear these pants I would have added a lining as this is a bit too itchy to wear without. But for working out this pattern it was fine. 

Here's a look at the diagram of this pattern so you can see the shaping. It definitely accounts for a hip curve which suits me well. I perhaps could have used one size smaller as I did have to shave off about a 1/4" at the widest part of the hip and also take out about 1" total at the center back waist but I tend to start with a larger pant as despite being relatively short I have a long rise. 

And here my expression says "what a lot of sewing time for something I am not going to wear." Although I am tempted since my suede shoes match so well with this outfit :) I neglected to take any pictures of the back of these pants so I will wait until I make another pair and get some better pictures then. 

So that's a start to my intention to blog more often and dive deep into sewing and pattern details. I have a few other items finished and then it may be time to contemplate spring sewing. What? Winter comes through fast here in N. California. Yesterday I saw plenty of out in shorts walking their dogs. Although we are hoping for more rain, still needed. 

I'm still teaching classes at Hello Stitch Studio in Berkeley, they are closing their doors as mentioned in my previous post but will be open through February. After that I have a some opportunities to teach at other venues so I will update soon.

Happy Winter Sewing,

Beth

Today's garden photo, something to remind us that summer is coming. I took this back in July and didn't even see the little extra visitor until later when I was looking at the image on my phone. I'm posting this today because due to that big rain we had last month, and then warm sunshine all the sunflower seeds that fell from these flowerheads are sprouting along my driveway, and some are almost 2 feet tall. Sunflowers in January! ok that is weird even for us. After some frosty nights they look a bit worse for wear but I think a few might make it and be full grown in a few months. Climate change in my front yard :)

Butterick 5454, a knit wrap dress and upcoming classes

It's a wrap! I find it difficult to write a post about sewing a wrap dress without using that phrase. So getting that cliche out of the way early, I can say that this pattern is a winner and wonder why I had it in my stash for so long without ever trying it. Because this pattern is adorable! and quite easy to sew.



Of course it helps to use an interesting fabric. I had doubts about it when it arrived, too weird? too wild? strange color combo? I get emails from FabricMartFabrics but I had never ordered, I just signed up for the mail list because I like to see what's out there, however I have so many good options at my local fabric store (Stone Mountain in Berkeley) or online with Mood Fabrics that I had never ordered from Fabric Mart. But one email mentioned Hawaiian designer fabrics at a big discount and I had to see that. They were from my favorite resort wear company (ToriRichard) so I ordered 3 different fabrics. One I have already sewn up, which was McCalls 6069.

My only regret is that I didn't really make it in my size!!! I decided to sew up a knit wrap dress because we wanted to put a dress on a form in the window at Hello Stitch Studio in Berkeley where I teach the garment sewing classes. I have SO many dresses, I don't need any more, so I just cut and sewed the size 12 with no adjustments. So while it looks like it fits ok, it is definitely on the small side. Due the the magic of knits I can make it work for a photo but in real life I would add some at the side seams. The pattern has some interesting release darts in the skirt front and back, and at the front shoulder in place of bust darts so if those small darts don't lie flat but are pulling a bit it takes away from the design.



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Here's the pattern envelope. I like to take a look and see the copyright date on these patterns that I've had for a few years, this one is dated 2010. So 8 years old but the dress looks completely current to me. I even like the little ruffle sleeves and might steal that look for a t-shirt.






So a friend of mine will probably get this one when the season changes and we put something else in the window at Hello Stitch. The red dress is a woven cotton, and I sewed up McCalls 7745 which is cute on the pattern envelope, and has raglan sleeves. However it is a weird shape - not comfortable in the shoulders, kind of all wrong for me. So don't choose that one for the class! But there are plenty of other nice wrap dresses. I just also made the Sew Over It: Eve wrap dress, and that turned out very well, here's a look and I will do a blog post soon on this dress.

What classes are coming up next at Hello Stitch? I'm glad you asked :) It's already been a full year that I have been teaching there, and I have met so many interesting people. It's really fun to see people meet in classes and become friends there. Part of the fun of a sewing class is getting the opportunity to meet other people who share your interest in sewing but you might otherwise never encounter. You get to spend a day doing something you love, with help to conquer techniques that might have frustrated you in the past. I really like to show shortcuts or tips that result in sewing success and make it easier to achieve the result you want.  Here's whats coming up in the next two months.

Pants Clinic: Diagnose your Fit Issues   Sat. July 14, 10-4. We'll take measurements, choose a starting size, pin-fit the paper pattern, stitch up a muslin and adjust the pattern.

Pattern Fitting: Adjust the Bust   Sun. July 15.  This class is 2 sections, with 10am-1pm section spent learning all about how to measure, choose starting pattern size, doing the various bust adjustments, FBA, SBA, darted or princess garments, doing hands-on pattern adjustments using paper templates to practice, learn, take notes on and take home as reference. Then 2-4pm section is the optional fit lab (limited to 4 students) where I will help you adjust your specific pattern. You can sign up for just the classroom part only or take both. This will be my fourth session of this class and I have been gratified by the response - pattern adjustment can be so tedious but hands-on practice with no pressure of fixing your specific pattern can really help you get familiar with the adjustments.



Sew a Button Front Shirt: an evening class on two Tuesdays, July 17 and 24, from 6-9pm. You can use any pattern and I will demo all kinds of shirt details like how to attach the collar and band (two ways) sleeve plackets, buttonhole placement, and my top tips for shirt success.



Copy your Favorite Garment: Sun. July 22 10am-3pm. Oh I love to make a pattern from an existing garment. I think doing that is quite eye-opening whether you have been sewing a while or are just beginning. It's interesting to see shapes in ready-to-wear and you can learn a lot about what you like in terms of fit and design. I will demo a few different techniques and different types of garments and then you will have time to work on making your own pattern. I suggest a simple top, skirt or shirt for your first project.

Pattern Hacks: Add new elements to your existing patterns. Sat. July 28 10am-3pm. You may or may not use that term, pattern hacking, but it does describe what we will do in this class. I will show how to change up the patterns that you already have to make a new design, add or change details and take advantage of the patterns you already sew to create a new look. I will show you how to easily copy your original pattern, then how to change necklines, how to add plackets or make a popover top, move darts and change darts to gathers, how to add pockets, how to create color block details and how to combine parts of two patterns into one. I'm really looking forward to this one, as when do I sew a pattern as is - almost never!



Sew a Wrap Dress: Sat. Aug. 4 from 10am-4pm. Choose any wrap dress pattern and we will review all the common issues with sewing wrap dresses such as how to choose your size, how to adjust the bust and make sure it wraps properly, how to stabilize and do bias binding, and how to hem full skirts. You can use a pattern for a knit or woven.

Sew the Bondi Dress: Sun. Aug. 12, 10am-4pm. You can make this cute dress in a day! We're offering this class again as it looks so good on everyone and is a perfect dress for summer. Plus you can make it again when the weather cools down in a different fabric to wear over a t-shirt for a different look. We have all the sizes sewn up in the studio so you can try on to determine you correct size, then trace your size so you have the pattern to take home with you. If you are interested in changing up the neckline style I can help you with that too. 3 main pattern pieces and includes pockets. Told you it was the perfect summer dress :) Here's the link to my blog post of my own Bondi dress.




So that's the schedule for the next month or so. Whew! I will be busy but I really enjoy teaching and meeting people. There are so many reasons to sew your own clothes, from wanting a custom fit, to choosing the exact color and style, or the satisfaction of the handmade process. I've spent a lot of hours throughout my life with just me and my sewing machine so it is really fun to expand on the social aspect of sewing.

I get a lot of comments here on the blog and on my Instagram that you would like to join a class if only you were in the same city, or even the same hemisphere. I would love to do some teaching in other places so if you want to get in touch and help organize I am open to the possibilities. I am reorganizing my jacket/coat class to be different this fall, more demos and examples along with helping everyone to construct their own garments so that would be great to take on the road. As for travel, NY, sure. UK or beyond - that would be fun. Sewing tools don't take up much space in the suitcase and leave plenty of room for some fabric shopping!

Classes in the fall at Hello Stitch - some of these mentioned above we will offer again, and then I have a hint about one that's not on the schedule yet - CAPES.  So many cute cape patterns out there and a perfect outerwear piece for any level of sewing.

Up next - no idea. I have a LOT of stuff in process, for myself and for a few people that I sew for. I might even finish a couple of Burda things that I've traced from recent magazines - they are so cute and I want to get to them before summer is gone. This weekend is the Bay Area Sewists Meetup where we do the Pattern Swap - a chance to see some good friends and trade patterns. Like I need any more patterns, ha.

Happy Summer Sewing,
Beth

today's garden photo, a hydrangea I planted last year, and it is finally putting out these pretty blooms.

A Shirt and a Shirtdress, Butterick 6333 in paisley cotton poplin

Which came first, the shirt or the shirtdress? In fact the fabric came first, and the idea for the shirt, but then I took a detour to sew this shirtdress.



Which is Butterick 6333, a shoulder princess seamed shirt dress pattern with two skirt options.
A really good basic pattern, that I made a little more difficult for myself with some fitting adjustments  that overshot the mark, as well as adding a waistband and zipper. WHAT? a zipper? yep, read on for details.



This is a dress I made for my friend Heather. She has been wanting a shirtdress for a while and we figured it was time to sew up a lightweight cotton one for late summer/fall. I've made a shirtdress style for her previously (probably not blogged) by copying an existing dress she had but for this one we wanted the traditional shirt styling with collar, stand, button band etc. However - and this is a big however, she likes to have a waistband to emphasize the waist, and this pattern didn't have that feature. So I improvised and the waistband you see is actually an applied piece. I sewed the dress as is, but added the waistband overlay on the outside of the bodice front and back, and that worked really well, plus let me do the fitting on the side seams. You know my aversion to sewing the skirt onto the top of a dress in one move, I always do the front, and then the back and sew the side seams near the end.

The second thing that she wanted was not to have the skirt actually unbutton. I can see for wearing that buttons are just a pain, they gape when you sit down and get ruined at the cleaners.



So I sewed the dress as normal, including the buttonholes all the way down the front of the dress. But from the waistband down to about 5 inches above the hem the dress is stitched closed. The topstitching on the button bands allowed me to overlay them as if they were buttoned and then stitch on either edge of the band. You can't even tell that it is sewn shut but no chance of any wardrobe or button malfunction. I sewed the buttons on in that portion right over the buttonholes (which I didn't slice open, no need). But of course what does this rearrangement require - our old friend the side seam zipper. Which means the dress has to fit at the waist just right, and then the zipper is put in next to last. (the sewing the front shut is actually the last). Well hemming is actually the last.

Dress form view. I did cause myself a bit more work as she has gone down a few inches and so I adjusted the pattern and then had to revise after I cut it out. But thankfully those shoulder princess seams allow for plenty of adjustment.



Cute huh? I love this fabric so much. Which is why it made it back with me last November when I shopped at Mood Fabrics.



Heather and I were searching for a stretch cotton in a print, maybe a sateen or a poplin that would work for a shirtdress, and I remembered that I had this fabric from Mood. So I checked on their website and it was still available. They have it still (in 3 color ways) although it says this green/navy is almost sold out. (search stretch cotton poplin).  Soon I plan to use that cotton shirting in the bottom of the photo for another shirt, it goes with so many things in my wardrobe.

Back to fact that I originally bought this cotton for a shirt for me. And here it is, using what else? My trusty Simplicity 2339 shirt pattern. At this point the pattern pieces are getting a bit raggedy, I guess it's time to copy them over onto sturdier paper (maybe 14 versions?)



Nothing much to say about this version other than I love the fabric and can wear this with so many things I have.

For every version I have made in the last couple of years I do the front placket as a continuous piece that gets folded and sewn into a small pleat. I was all set to show how I do it but a search through my old blog posts shows that I already did that :)  Here is the link to how to make this type of shirt front placket.

Which you can see a little better in this picture.



 The sleeves extra long on this version as I like to wear shirts under sweaters when the weather is colder and flip up the cuffs for a little extra peek at the shirt.  Tower plackets on the cuff opening which are hard to see in this busy fabric.



Sewing a button front shirt has turned out to be one of our most popular classes at Hello Stitch Studio in Berkeley where I teach. The next button front shirt class starts Jan 13 as well as some other new classes, including some shorter mini-classes covered one type of techniques. Last week was my first mini class on zippers, and we will be adding more to the 2018 schedule. (including things like buttonholes, welt pockets, facings, linings, popular pattern hacks etc) I'll post when they are available for registration. I think Stacey is in the process of adding them to the website now.

This shirt is a bit longer than other versions, and I changed the shape of the side seam hem edge curve.



That's it for the paisley fabric from Mood. I have a few good size chunks leftover which might get combined with other retainers and turn into a sleeveless top next summer. But for now they go in the scrap box.

Up next, I have a long list of stuff that is either started or on the proverbial drawing board, including some jeans, a custom dress form, and an assortment of knit tops.

Can you believe Thanksgiving is around the corner - it sounds so trite to say it but this year is flying by. Only 8 more months until summer!

Happy fall sewing, Beth

for today's garden photo, some roses that bloomed back in July. This is one of the oldest rose bushes in my garden, way predates me and despite being in a shady spot puts out these lovely pink blooms. 
So many thorns though - and I've snagged my shirt on it numerous times trying to wriggle past to prune one of it's neighbors. I've planted a number of newer roses in the past few years but these older ones are worth keeping, which they bloom well they are showstoppers. 

Something different, Butterick 5861 top in poly chiffon

Every once in a while I try to step out of my style rut. It could be trying a new silhouette, sometimes it means sewing up a different color than I would normally wear, or even a different fabric than I typically use. This blouse seems to fit into all 3 of those categories, as it is definitely a new shape, in a new-to-me shade, and a fabric I haven't sewn with in quite a while.




I made this pattern a few months ago for someone else, and after I finished it I gave it a quick try-on just to see how it looked. Kind of interesting, was my initial reaction so I make some copies of the pattern, gave the original back to the owner and set it aside with the intention of finding some nice silk. However one day I was at Stone Mountain and found this polyester fabric in their upstairs bargain section, so for about $ 7 I figured it was worth a try. Since I wasn't entirely sold on the actual pattern. While I suppose it is a blue, it is an awfully tepid shade, I see it as grey. Although friend came over and saw it on the dress form, and said "I love that shade of teal blue". So I guess it is in the eye of the beholder what color things appear.

A better look at it on the dress form. This fabric is on the sheer side, not see-through but more like chiffon than not. You can see where the layer is doubled, at the shoulder yoke and down the front button bands where it's more opaque.




And this pattern has a lot of details. A surprising lot of details but that's what made it interesting to sew, and I think makes it look appealing when worn. It has raglan sleeves that attach into shoulder yokes, a button band which has a slight angle right at the top to create that V opening. And then there is the pleating. All those tiny pleats. Which are also on a slight angle, not straight lines. QUITE a task to sew and don't look to closely. Not exactly precisely even but I don't think anyone will ever notice.

And then the back has some gathers at the neckline, and then a section at the center back where you stitch with elastic thread to create the ruching, plus it has vertical darts. Like I said, a lot of details. Which perhaps would show better in a solid color fabric but I think a print makes it easier to sew the little pleats in the front.






Here's the pattern envelope. I think it is a few years old - maybe even 4 or 5 but fits into that boho style that is trending now.  I didn't copy the other version, it looks a bit shapeless for my taste and has that elastic stitching on the sleeves instead of the flat yoke pieces.

Speaking of shapeless, I sewed this a few months ago, and have worn it once but it felt so loose and too blousey on me. The other day I tried it on again and decided to take it in all along the side seams up to part of the sleeve. So I took out a seam about 1 inch wide on each side, tapering away to the middle of the seam under the sleeve. Much better, that raised the armhole considerable, and took out a total of about 4 inches in circumference.





So now it's still loose and flowy but I don't feel like I'm swimming in it. And I made a size 12 with no adjustments, my usual size so it really is a loose style to start with.



There's a look at all those little pleats down the front. They came out a bit wobbly on each version I have sewn, one in polyester and one in silk chiffon which I forgot to photograph. But that silk one was a challenge, although it came out nicely in the end.



This is my go-to outfit when the weather cools off. A t-shirt or a top, some ankle length pants or jeans and loafers. Not quite dressing for autumn but in the evenings it is getting cooler. Ok we're still wearing shorts and sandals in the day so I can't complain. Ooo I don't like it when it starts getting dark early.

So that's I have to say about this blouse, still not wild about it but perhaps now that I took it in I will like it more. To me the color is a bit drab, and the print/color/fabric combo are kind of geriatric to me.
Also the neckline is just suited for this time of year, in about 3 weeks I will be wearing sweaters and lots of layers. Perhaps it is my short haircut but my neck is always cold once summer fades.

Onward to the next thing. I am sewing up the Waffle Patterns Bamboo coat that I started for my Jacket class at a very leisurely pace, which is rather pleasant. We have another session of that class scheduled for Sat/Sun Dec 16-17. Maybe for that one I will make the one of the other patterns for one of the owners of the studio. Because I don't need any more coats! Although I will have another gorgeous coat in the works before this year ends - a little hint - my favorite European Indie designer has created another gorgeous one so I plan to sew that up for a friend.

I saw on IG that Stone Mountain just got in a shipment of interesting printed silks so I think I will pop over there this week and check it out.  Other than that I plan to make some new long sleeve tees and maybe a new dress before the holidays.

This is the time of year to stay out of the chain fabric stores - the once a year Halloween costume sewers are in full force and while I have some pity for them I don't want to be in line behind them at the cutting table :)

Happy October Sewing, Beth

The garden is looking very crispy and uninteresting this time of year, however it was a great year for all my annuals, lots of blooms and this white petunia is still pushing out all kind of flowers. It's visible next to my feet in the pictures above. Some years the petunias are better than others and this year was a good one. Unlike the tomatoes - everyone had trouble with those but that is a story for another time.

Summer's not over: Butterick 5455 in cotton sateen

Please don't mention to me that summer is over because I don't want to hear it! Fall sewing, wearing sweaters, being chilly, ugh. None of that appeals to me. As you know I am a super wimpy when it comes to winter or any cold weather - and I live in the very moderate, mostly Mediterranean climate of the bay area. So not all that cold  - but it's all the other things. Falling leaves, getting dark earlier and earlier, too may Halloween/Thanksgiving/Christmas decorations in the stores already.
OK, the calendar said that our summer ended officially ended last week with the autumnal equinox but I am going to pretend it isn't so - at least for a few more weeks.

I might even get to wear this dress one more time before putting it away until next year. It really is a summer print which I fell for when I saw it on the Mood website, and had to include it when I ordered a fabric for someone else.

Since I just returned from vacation in Hawaii this picture goes first. Yes, looking very relaxed after sunset cocktails by the ocean.....



Most years my birthday coincides with a beachy vacation (clever that way aren't I) and so this year I was planning to sew up this fabric with a new pattern. But I just ran out of time for playing around with a new pattern so I turned to my trusty Butterick 5455 which I have now made 12 ? times, including one other birthday dress. 

Here's some views on the dress form which show the detail much better, and also the color of the fabric.



Here's the pattern envelope - it's out of print but you could find a copy on eBay.





Do you think the fabric is a bit too cutesy and juvenile? Might be but I don't care, I love the colors and flowers + leaves + citrus is just so cheerful. It's a stretch cotton sateen so super easy to sew, wear, etc.

This pattern is one of my all time favorites because of the details. The pleating at the front neckline, the midriff band, the pockets that don't add any bulk, and back V, and the nice thin but wearable straps. I think sometimes you find a pattern that is just right for your proportions and even if you have to do some fit adjustments the basic shape is just right for your shape.
I don't really have any sewing details...other than I think this might be my best invisible zipper in a V-neckline ever.



No matter how long you have been sewing a little thing like that is so satisfying.




I lined the upper portion with cotton voile, and then with lightweight dresses like this I don't even sew the darts in the lining, just fold them as pleats inside and tack them down along with the edge of the lining at the waist.


As I mentioned in my previous blog post - this year on vacation I took very few pictures, didn't spend much time online or email. Just relaxed and unplugged. And it was great. So I took a few more photos back at home of this dress.



A couple more details, the pocket and the side view.







So that's it for my last summer dress. I love the colors so I will definitely be packing this one for my next tropical trip.
Until then I'm starting another version of the Pauline Alice Aldaia dress, and doing some prep work this week for my Jacket Making class this upcoming weekend at Hello Stitch in Berkeley. And in November I'm going to do a class on copying an existing garment which should be interesting - I really enjoy doing that.




Last one - with the garden appearing more green than it really is  - after those dry hot days of August.

Happy end of September sewing, 
Beth

And instead of garden shots - a couple of my iPhone pictures from vacation. I am always amazed at how well they turn out.

Every Hawaiian island is beautiful but my favorite is Oahu, because it combines the liveliness of a big (sort-of) city with gorgeous beaches and great local restaurants. I've lost count of my trips - probably more than my age :)

Kailua Beach