On November 5 bonfires burned in
mockery of Guy Fawkes and memory of the Gunpowder Plot to blow up Parliament. The
Feast of St. Martin, or Martinmas, fell on November 11, and St. Andrew, the
patron saint of Scotland, had his day on November 30. St. Andrew's day also
marked the beginning of Advent to celebrate the four weeks before Christmas. In
November, the landed gentry still dined on wild foul as well as domestic
poultry—which was now getting a bit old and aged (meaning tough and needing
sauces to make the meat palatable). They also had beef, venison and pork with
their meals. Fish could still be caught and served, and winter vegetables
graced the dining room, including: carrots, turnips, parsnips, potatoes, leeks,
cabbage, celery and lettuces. With November, walnuts and chestnuts came into
season.
More celebrations lead to
Christmas Eve when the Lord of Misrule danced and the Mummers traveled to
perform their pantomimes. Then came Christmas Day, and Boxing Day on December
26, which was St. Stephen's Day. Boxing
Day did not get its name from gift boxes, for the exchange of gifts was a
German custom still new to Regency England. Instead, Boxing Day got its name
from the older tradition of it being a day in which pleadings could be placed
in a box for a judge to privately review. In December, besides beef and mutton
to eat, pork and venison were served. Goose was cooked for more than just the
Christmas meal, and there would be turkey, pigeons, chicken, snipes, woodcock,
larks, guinea-foul, widgeons and grouse to eat. Cod, turbot, soul, sturgeon and
eels joined the list of fish in season. Forced asparagus added a delicacy to
the usual winter vegetables. Stored apples, pears and preserved summer fruit
appeared on the better, richer tables. Mince pies made from mincemeat, which
has no meat in it, were another traditional fare, with the tradition being that
everyone in the household should stir, for luck, the mix of dried fruit and
spices before it was baked.
But households also celebrated
not just according to the season, but also to the customs of the area. In the
Regency, local customs in the countryside might well hold to the old ways.
For
one of my books, Under the Kissing Bough,
I needed a Christmas wedding and customs that suited the countryside around
London. In ancient days, a Christmas wedding would have been impossible for the
English Church held a "closed season" on marriages from Advent in
late November until St. Hilary's Day in January. The Church of England gave up
such a ban during Cromwell's era, even though the Roman Catholic Church
continued its enforcement. Oddly enough a custom I expected to be ancient—that
of the bride having "something borrowed, something blue, and a sixpence in
her shoe"—turned out to be a Victorian invention.
For
Christmas customs, I relied on those that have carried down through the ages:
the Yule log from Viking winter solstice celebrations (which gives us Yule Tide
celebrations), the ancient Saxon decorations of holy and ivy, and the Celtic
use of mistletoe on holy days, which transformed itself into a kissing bough.
Carolers might well travel from house to house, offering song in exchange for a
wassail bowl—a hot, spiced or mulled drink, another tradition left over from
the Norse Vikings.
The
holidays were a time of games as well, and the game of Snapdragon is a very old
one. It's played by placing raisins in a broad, shallow bowl, pouring brandy
over them and setting the brandy on fire. Players then must show their courage
by reaching through the spirit-flames to snatch up raisins. And the game even
comes with its own song:
Here comes the
flaming bowl,
Don't he mean to
take his toll,
Snip! Snap!
Dragon!
Take care you
don't take too much,
Be not greedy in
your clutch,
Snip! Snap!
Dragon!
Celebrations continued to mix
tradition and religion when the Twelfth Night feast arrived on January 5, which
combine the Roman Saturnalia with the Feast of the Epiphany, when the three
wise men were said to have paid tribute to the Baby Jesus.