This area,
Bercy, used since the beginning of the 18th century to be Paris’ major wine
storage and market… This was then outside the Paris borders and alcohol was
for a long time tax free, so it was not only a place for merchants, but also a
place of “guinguettes”; bistros and bars. Bercy developed to be the world’s
largest wine market. Wine arrived in large barrels by road, rail … and by the
nearby river Seine.
During the
last decades the area has been transformed into a park (see previous posts) and
only a few of the old warehouses (and rail tracks) remain.
At one end
of the park you find some of the old warehouses transformed into a large number
of shops and restaurants (Cours Saint Emilion), and then if you cross the
street behind you see some more warehouses. Looking through the gate (see top
picture) you wonder…
If you take
the walk around the block, you will reach the real entrance to what is named “Les
Pavillons de Bercy”. The buildings date from the end of the 19th
century and have an assistant to Gustave Eiffel as architect. They have now been
transformed into some kind of gigantic fun fair museum.
It has all been
created by an antique-dealer, restaurant owner, who since some 30-40 years has
collected all kinds of historic fun fair equipment from France and abroad … and
on a large scale. The place is full of complete and important installations,
carefully restored.
The first
pleasure is just to walk between the buildings. In each window there is a
little statue…
The decorations
and the light settings are impressive…
No plastic
around; the merry-go-round horses are in light linden-tree wood and the
original paintings have been made visible…
You can
watch some automated singing, dancing and playing…
Some walls
are covered by wax figures from the Grévin Museum…
Some
machines are really impressive… Everything works and kids (and adults) can enjoy!
The below “bicycle-merry-go-round”
(from 1875) has needed thousands of hours of restoration. It’s up to you to use
the pedals. The speed you reach is amazing … and must have been felt even more amazing
those days.
Surprisingly,
the place is not permanently open. You'd better call (+33143401622) and check for
an arranged tour. I was just lucky to pass by at the beginning of a guided
tour. Next time I will bring the grandkids.