Showing posts with label Series: Basic makeup for beginners and everyone else. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Series: Basic makeup for beginners and everyone else. Show all posts

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Basic Makeup: Finding the right foundation

I've gotten a lot of requests to do makeup tutorials on all the "basics" like foundation, liquid liner and things like that, and today I finally started! ;)




I can't decide if I should do a blog post about this too?
Blog posts can be longer and so I can explain everything better.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll put all the answers in a separate blog post :)

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Makeup Rules - to follow or not to follow?

"Don't wear bold eyes and bold lips at the same time!"

"Don't use liquid liner under your eyes!"

"Don't EVER wear black lipstick!"

"Don't wear black eyeliner on your waterline! It makes your eyes look smaller!"

"Never pluck the hairs above your eyebrow!"

Makeup "rules" are all over the makeup communities on the Internet but even before you become a makeup junkie and start searching for tips and tricks on the web, you probably come across the rules in other places - especially magazines.

While the majority of the "rules" are great guidelines to follow if you want a natural look, or if you're just starting out with makeup, many of them just limit ourselves and our creativity.
I worked on a shoot with a photographer who didn't want me to do red lips with a semi-dark smokey eye (even though he wanted dramatic makeup for a quite dramatic shoot) because his other stylists always told him that bold lips and bold eyes didn't go together.
Obviously you will not achieve a natural look by doing bold lips and dramatic eyes at the same time but what if it's not a natural look you're going for? In my opinion, you can get away with practically anything as long as you know what you're doing and your tecniques are good enough for it.

Now, I realize that it's easier to create a set of rules or dos and don'ts for people who are just starting out with makeup - rather than start out by teaching them to experiment - 'cus we all know that it's important to have the basics down before we start doing crazy things.
However, I think it's sad that many women think that there is a right and a wrong way to do makeup. I talk to many who keep asking "Oh no, I need to wear that color because of my eyes" or "why do you put eyeliner on the waterline? I don't want small eyes!"

Rather than the magazines dictating what NOT to do I think it would be much nicer to read tips like these:

"If you want a natural look, it's usually better to focus on either the eyes or the lips"

"Try using a pencil eyeliner or even an eyeshadow under your eye to create a softer line than that of a liquid eyeliner"

"Dark lipsticks come of very obvious so you need to use these tecniques ____ for them to work"

"Black eyeliner on the waterline frames the eye and can give a sexy look but it will also close the eye a bit so be a little careful with it"

"Plucking the hairs below the eyebrow rather than above usually gives the most natural look but it's OK to pluck little hairs above for a cleaner look"

I can see that this way of describing things takes up a bit more space in the magazines but is that really why they focus so much on what NOT to do?

Quite frankly, I don't think women are stupid enough to need rules about everything! Many girls and women do ask about rules and right/wrong ways to do makeup, but I think that's because they are used to it being like that. They don't want makeup to be complicated and they think that rules make it easier. I think rules make makeup boring. Breaking the rules is the fun part!

I understand that business women with kids don't have neither the time nor the energy or the interest in doing experimental and creative makeup in the morning and so of course the rules come in handy. The problem is just that these women really see the rules as RULES and not guidelines.

I think I'll start a series of posts about the whole "makeup rule"-thing we have going on - and I'll try to give examples of when it's OK to break the rules :) If anyone would be interested in reading it, that is.

So what do you think?
Do you follow certain makeup rules?
Do you break the rules? And how?
Are posts like these even interesting to read? :)

Friday, May 22, 2009

Basic Makeup: Using glitter in makeup

As you probably know if you've been following my FOTDs, I love using glitter! :)
BUT, many of you have probably also noticed how cosmetic glitter almost always have a little warning on them: "Not eyesafe" or "Do not use in eye area" or something along those lines.

Why isn't glitter eye safe?

Most glitter (even cosmetic) isn't eyesafe because it's dangerous to get it inside your eye. It will do no harm sitting on your eyelid but if you're not careful and it gets inside the eye, it can scratch your cornea which doesn't sound very pleasant ;)

Why and how do you use it on your eye if it isn't safe?
As I mentioned above, the glitter isn't dangerous as long as it doesn't get IN your eye.
Putting a "not eyesafe" sticker on glitter is usually something cosmetic companies do to make sure that they can't be blamed if someone uses the glitter irresponsibly and has an accident with it. That means that you're safe to use it at your own risk, and that it's safe as long as you think about what you are doing.

A couple of things to keep in mind when using glitter on the eyes:
  • Use something to make the glitter stick and stay in place all day.
  • Apply the glitter with the eye you're applying it to closed.
  • Make sure to dust off any excess glitter before you open your eye.
  • Be careful when removing the makeup. I never recommend rubbing hard on your eyes when trying to take makeup off and this is extra important when you have glitter on! Swipe gently to the side to take the glitter off and make sure it doesn't get in your eye :)
What can I use to make the glitter stay in place?
Please use something that holds the glitter in place all day and not just five minutes!
Something like MAC waterbased mixing medium is fine for pigments and so it seems like a fine idea to use it with glitters too. This is not the case, since the mixing medium won't keep the glitter glued to the eye once it dries.
Instead, try looking into:
  • MAC eyeliner mixing medium. This makes the glitter(or whatever your mix into it) waterproof and long lasting. It works well for making glitterliners (obviously) but can also be used if you want to use glitter all over the eye - just keep in mind that it does take a little longer than most things to dry on your eye.
  • DUO adhesive (or any good eyelash glue). This will keep the glitter in place as well and is also waterproof. I like to dab some on my lid with my finger and then dab glitter on top. If you mix the glitter into the glue the glitter won't sparkle as much because of the glue it has on top.
  • Longlasting liquid eyeliners (Like MAC Liquidlast or GOSH extreme art). Since these last really well by themselves they can also hold onto the glitter. Just make sure to put the glitter on top of the liner before it's dry.
I've also heard about a glue made specifically for glitter but I've never found it or tried it. Let me know if you have any experience with that :)
What are other ways to use glitter than on the eyes?
Just like any other product, the possibilities are endless ;) Since glitter reflects the light it works well for highlighting, and some glitters are therefore great to use on the cheekbones or on your body. Using a body lotion to make the glitter adhere can be a good idea.
Mixing glitter into nail polish is another great way to use it.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Basic makeup: Eyeshadow bases and primers

As you probably know, I work at a place where I get asked tons of questions about eyeshadow ;)
Costumers often come up to me and ask how I get the color so vibrant and how I make the colors last. The answer to most of the eyeshadow-related questions I get is usually: USE AN EYESHADOW PRIMER!

So, what is an eyeshadow primer?
An eyeshadow primer is a product used on the eye, before application of eyeshadow, to either help the eyeshadows last longer, adhere easier (and therefore go on brighter), or to help the eyeshadows blend better - but without altering the color you put on top.

What products could I use as an eyeshadow primer?
I know that there are a lot of eyeshadow primers on the market but I've picked these out because I know that they are either really popular or because I use them myself.
  • TFSI (Too Faced Shadow Insurance): a popular choice among beauty bloggers and youtube makeup gurus. I've never tried it myself but would like to sometime.
  • UDPP (Urban Decay Primer Potion): another popular choice, but also a product I've never tried ;) According to the reviews on MUA, UDPP is a bit more drying on the lids than TFSI and might therefore be better for people with oily lids. Some people say, that this product makes the eyeshadows hard to blend.
  • ArtDeco eyeshadow base: Even though the name is "eyeshadow base" this is concidered a primer. This is what I use because it works brilliantly for me. It makes my eyeshadows last all day, the eyeshadow colors come out vibrant on top of it and they don't fade during the day. I'm in Denmark and get it at a store called Douglas but I know this product can be hard to find outside Europe :/
  • MAC Paint: I have this too and it works just as well as the ArtDeco eyeshadow base but I don't use this because of the price tag. Paints make eyemakeup last a very long time but it can be drying so it's better for people with oily lids.
  • MAC Paint pot: This is a bit creamier than the paints and some people love it more for that reason. It doesn't last on my oily lids though.
  • MAC Prep+Prime eye: This product does not make the eyeshadow last longer than on it's own but it makes it super easy to blend the eyeshadows on top of it. I've only tried it once and didn't know how to use it properly so I'll have to give it another try and see if it'll last better if I use another base underneath.
  • Concealer/Foundation: Using a little concealer or foundation on the eyelid before applying eyeshadows will give a nice canvas to work on and might make the eyeshadows last a bit longer but it depends on the type of foundation/concealer you're using. This trick is not nearly enough to make my eyeshadows last since I have such oily eyelids but I know it works for some people.

How do I use an eyeshadow primer?
Of course, the application tecnique varies with different primers but less is usually more. A thin layer of the primer smoothed out with a finger will usually work.

So, what is an eyeshadow base?
An eyeshadw base is a colored product that will alter the color of the eyeshadow you put on top. An example could be to use a blue cream eyeshadow as a base underneath a blue eyeshadow. This will give the color of the blue eyeshadow more depth and the color will pop.
Another example could be to use a green cream eyeshadow under a blue eyeshadow. This will also give the color more depth but the blue eyeshadow will look a bit more green.
Many different effects can be achieved by using colored bases under eyeshadows! Check out my quick tips on Duochrome eyeshadows and Glittery eyeshadows over colored bases :)
Some bases last fine on their own while others need to be applied over an eyeshadow primer in order to last.

What products could I use as an eyeshadow base?
Honestly, the possibilities are endless! :)
Some popular choises are:
  • MAC Paint Pot: Paint Pots come in various different colors and finishes. They work as primers too as long as you don't have oily lids.
  • MAC Paints: Paints used to come in different colors but unfortunately MAC has discontinued most of the colored paints and now have mostly(if not only) neutral primer-colors left.
  • Mehron Aquacolors: These are among my personal favorites but I don't use them too often since they are water activated and terefore a little more time consuming than say paint pots.
  • Kryolan Aquacolors: Similar to the Mehron Aquacolors from what I've heard but I've never tried them myself.
  • Other cream eyeshadows: Any cream eyeshadow can be used as a base but different brands and types have different staying power and color payoff and are different to work with, so some will obviously work better as bases than others.
  • Gel eyeliner: These can be used as a base just like the Paint Pots.
  • Pencil eyeliner: Can be used as a base but soft eyeliners are easier to use than harder ones since they're easier to blend out.
How do I use an eyeshadow base?
This really depend on the products you use and the look you're going for.
The easiest way is often to apply a layer of the base to your lid and blend it out into the crease a bit, but try to experiment! There are as many different ways to use bases as there are to use regular eyeshadow :)

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Basic Makeup series: Foundation

When I first started experimenting with makeup I didn't care about foundation.
Mainly because I couldn't find a color that didn't make me look like an orange mess but also because I was too busy playing with fun colors to care about the very basics ;)

I still have more fun with color that anything else but I've realized that colors stand out more and everything look more put together and amazing when the skin looks great as well! :)

Finding the right type of foundation:
Finding the right foundation can often be a bit of a challenge so I've always found it easiest to go to a makeup counter and get help to find the best type and get matched for the right color. However, the makeup artist/sales person can't help you unless you've decided some things for yourself before you come in to get a foundation:
  • What is my skin type?
  • What coverage do I want?
  • What finish do I want?

The reason why you wanna take your skin type into consideration is that different skin types will have different effects on how your foundation wears throughout the day. For example, you want a moisturizing foundation if your skin is dry but a moisturizing foundation will often look greasy on oily skin.
If your skin is oily you might want a foundation with little or no oil but such a foundation will often look dry and flaky on dry skin.

It may seem obvious that you need to decide what coverage you want but not all people think about this. Most brands have foundations ranging from very little coverage (almost like a tinted moisturizer) to almost full coverage.
If you feel your skin looks good but not really great you might find a light-medium coverage foundation enough. If you get breakouts the light-medium coverage foundation will still work but you might want to use a concealer with it for those spots that need a little extra coverage.
Light-medium coverage usually look more natural than a full coverage foundation if your skin is great but using a full coverage foundation is better than slathering on a light coverage foundation if you need more coverage ;)
In my opinion, the best choice is to go with a foundation that gives you the coverage you want when you apply as little foundation as possible.

What finish your foundation has may or may not be important to you but it's something you'll get asked if you get help finding a foundation. Now, there are foundations that'll give your skin a matte finish, foundations that'll give your skin a dewy finish and everything in between.
Dewy-looking foundations are usually best for normal to dry skin and not so great for oily skin since it often enhances any oil you may have on your face.
Matte foundations are often the best choice for oily skin since they don't have any shine in them at all and therefore won't look as shiny when you start getting oily throughout the day.

Finding the right foundation color:
First thing you want to do is find out what your undertones are. Is your skin more red or more yellow?
That'll help you decide if you need a foundation with warm(red) or cool(yellow) undertones.

Applying a foundation on your hand will not show you if it matches your face. You need to try the foundation on your face :) Pick up 3 different colors that you think could work and apply a little amount of each side by side on your chin. The color that blends into your skin so that you can't see it is the right match for you :) If you're looking at foundations at a makeup counter the MA there will be happy to help you with the color matching :) If the counter is busy you can ask if it's ok that you try to match yourself.

Do I need a different foundation when I get a tan in the summer?
Yes, you do. At least if you want your foundation to look natural :)
A great idea is to buy a foundation in the winther when you're palest and a foundation in the summer when you're most tan. That way you can mix the two foundations when you're a color inbetween and you'll always have a color that works. Mixing foundation colors will usually work best if it's the same foundation type.

Oh no, my foundation makes my skin break out!
Let's just face that anything you put on your face can break you out. No matter what brand and what type of foundation. Even mineral makeup can break you out.
Why is that?
There's a chance that you're allergic to an ingredient in the product, and if that's the case the only thing you can do is use another product.
There's also a chance that your skin is just too sensitive/the product is too heavy/the product is clogging your pores and all you can really do is try another product.
I think a very common reason that a lot of people break out when using face makeup is because they don't keep the products/brushes/sponges clean.
PLEASE keep your brushes clean and throw out sponges regularly! I think I'll make a separate post about this since it's super important and not everyone think about it.

High end vs. Low end foundations:
I've tried both low end foundations like Maybelline, highend foundations like Lancome and am using a medium-high end MAC foundation right now.
I must admit that the Maybelline foundation I used was great for the price but there are a couple of things I like better with higher end foundations:
  • They usually have a better range of color which is especially great for pale girls like me and women of color
  • There are usually more different types and finishes available for you to choose from in a higher end brand.
  • It's nice to go to a counter and get help with finding the type and color that's right for you.
  • It's usually easier to get samples of the higher end foundations or to at least try it on at the store.
  • Out of the foundations I've tried the low-end ones were the ones that lasted the shortest time before settling into fine lines/pores or sliding of my face.
That being said, I haven't always received the best service at high end counters! A woman at the Lancome counter wouldn't even try the color on my face but matched me by trying the color on my hand - and she wouldn't give me a sample to take home. I went to another counter!



No matter what brand/type/color of foundation you choose it's a great idea to get a sample of it to try it a couple times to see how you like it. Or to at least try it on at the store and walk around with it for a little while to see how it wears/how the color looks in natural light/if the color oxidizes/what it feels like before buying :)

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Makeup basics for beginners and everyone else :)

I really want to do a series of how-tos and tutorials on basic makeup application as well as some more in-depth info on the subjects.
I'm thinking about doing:

  • Eyebrows - plucking/threading, shaping, filling in
  • Foundations - different foundation types, foundation brushes, foundations for pale skin (since that's something I've had problems with)
  • Building a makeup kit
  • Primers - what they are, what difference they make, are they worth it. Face primers, lash primers, lip primers, eye primers+bases
  • Lips - lip lining, different types of lipsticks, lip conditioner, glosses
  • Eyelining - different types of eyeliner, different styles of eyeliner, brushes
  • Basic brushes
  • Eyeshadow - blending, bases+primers, brushes
  • Color theory - what eyeshadows to wear with different eye colors, color correctors
  • False lashes - application of the lashes, different types of glue, different lashes for different occasions
  • Using glitter in makeup


Would it be interesting to read? Any other ideas for more subjects to cover?

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