Butternut Squash, Blue Potato, and Gruyere Gratin

I hope you all had a merry Christmas! No holiday is complete without a menu of delicious food and hopefully your menu included a cheesy delight like this one. Truth be told, I served pretty traditional individual scalloped potato stacks alongside ham, individual delicata squash sformatos, roasted carrots and parsnips, and crescent rolls, but I wouldn't have balked at this substitution in the slightest. The flavorful blue potatoes and butternut squash form an alternating earthy and sweet structure within which nutty cheese and vibrant herbs mingle. While I enjoy it primarily for its flavor, it's a healthier substitute for some of the fattier and starchier side dishes, and gluten-free for any guests with that dietary restrictions (vegans and lactose-intolerant people will have to look elsewhere). When trying to be a locavore in northern climates, it can take some effort to keep things interesting, but this recipe definitely did my winter CSA veggies justice.

Butternut Squash, Blue Potato, and Gruyere Gratin
adapted from the New York Times
serves 6 to 8 as a side, 3 to 4 as a main

1 large garlic clove, cut in half
1 pound blue potatoes, scrubbed, peeled if desired and sliced about 1/4 inch thick
1 pound butternut squash, peeled and sliced about 1/4 inch thick
1/2 teaspoon herbes de Provence
3/4 cup, shredded Gruyère cheese (3 ounces)
Salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper
2-1/2 cups low-fat milk

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Rub the inside of a 2-quart gratin dish or baking dish with the cut side of the garlic, and lightly oil with olive oil or butter. Slice any garlic that remains and toss with the potatoes, squash, thyme, rosemary, half the cheese and a generous amount of salt and pepper. Arrange in an even layer in the gratin dish.

2. Pour the milk over the potatoes and squash, and press the vegetables down into the milk. Place in the oven, and bake one hour. Every 20 minutes, remove the gratin dish and press the potatoes and squash down into the liquid with the back of a large spoon. After one hour, sprinkle on the remaining cheese and bake for another 30 minutes, until the top is golden and the sides crusty. Remove from the oven, and allow to sit for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Serve hot or warm.

Turnip, Leek, Potato, and Spinach Soup

Despite, or perhaps because of, it's simplicity, leek and potato soup is one of my favorites. Through some beautiful culinary alchemy, potatoes, leeks, butter, salt, and water turn in something magical that needs no further enhancement. But that certainly doesn't mean there isn't room for experimentation! This riff on classic pays homage to the classic Potage Parmentier without hiding the extra zing from the turnips or hint of earthy greens. It's surprisingly filling for such a light dish, able to become a meal with just a salad or a heartier one as a companion to your favorite sandwich. Tossing in some beans, cooked grains, or a poached egg (or any combination of the three) is my favorite way to fortify this recipe, and create a delicious, healthy meal out of the orphan ingredients in my fridge. The extra soup freezes beautifully, and there will still be plenty to save even after you dig in heartily.

Turnip, Leek, Potato, and Spinach Soup
adapted from the New York Times
makes 8 servings

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 large leeks, white and light green part only, halved lengthwise, cleaned and sliced or chopped
Salt to taste
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds turnips, peeled and diced
1 large russet potato (about 3/4 pound), peeled and diced
2 quarts water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock
8 ounces baby spinach or kale, chopped
A bouquet garni made with a bay leaf and a couple of sprigs each thyme and parsley
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives for garnish

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat and add the onion, leeks and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds to a minute. Add the turnips, potatoes, water or stock, salt to taste, and the bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender and the soup is fragrant.  During the last few minutes of cooking, add the spinach by handfuls, cooking until the just wilt down. Remove and discard the bouquet garni.

2. Blend the soup in batches in a blender (cover the top with a towel and hold it down to avoid hot splashes), or through a food mill fitted with the fine blade. The soup should be very smooth. Strain if desired. Return to the pot. Stir and taste. Adjust salt, add freshly ground pepper, and heat through. Serve in small bowls or espresso cups, garnished with chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives.

Dal Palak

Pretty much every Monday night it is both Meatless Monday and big batch cooking night at my house. Monday might not be the night most people use to be ambitious after work, but I like to use the first night of the week fill up the freezer and get some laundry done while dinner is bubbling away on the stove. Crossing off a long to-do list is my solution to the Monday doldrums, making what would be a drag of a day anyway move a lot more quickly and starting the week on a productive note.

For all the cuisines that make an appearance on my Monday night, I think Indian is the most common. All manner of vegetables and legumes, even many you wouldn't normally expect, take expertly to sweet, savory, and spicy Indian-inspired flavors. They're also ideal candidates for big batch Meatless Monday because they are often healthy, inexpensive, and freeze really well. This trifecta of qualities is what makes a recipe worth investing significant prep and cooking time, provided the outcome is still a delicious dish. And while neither I, or the author of the original, will claim this is the most authentic recipe, there's no denying that this fridge-clearing pile of veggies and melange of spices meet all those criteria perfectly.

For the dinner and lunch the day after, I ate this over brown rice with a dollop of yogurt and dash of hot sauce, but if I get some time to make naan, you can bet this will be one of the first companions it sees. Baked tofu, chicken, or even eggs would also perch perfectly atop this healthy plate if you're feeling especially ravenous.

Dal Palak
adapted from The Kitchn

makes about 8 cups

1 large onion, diced
2 packages (about 16 ounces) white button or baby bella mushrooms, roughly chopped
2 medium-sized red or white potatoes, cubed
1 inch fresh ginger, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons coriander
1 Tablespoon garam masala
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 28-ounce can of diced tomatoes
10 ounce bunch of spinach or other hearty green (kale, chard, etc.) cleaned and cut into ribbons
1 cup lentils
3 cups of water or broth
1-2 Tablespoons salt
Chopped scallions, for topping (optional)
Plain yogurt or sour cream, for topping (optional)
Hot sauce, for topping (optional)

1. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a large dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions, the mushrooms, and one teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions are translucent and the mushrooms show spots of golden brown. Add the potatoes and another teaspoon of salt, and cook until the edges are just starting to turn translucent.

2. Clear a space in the middle of the pan and add the ginger, garlic, spices, and one more teaspoon of salt. Cook until the garlic is fragrant (30 seconds), and then stir the spices into the mix. Add the diced tomatoes in their juices, the spinach, and the lentils. Stir to combine everything and then top with three cups of water or broth.

3. Turn the heat to high and bring the soup to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and let the soup simmer for about 45 minutes until the lentils and potatoes are cooked through. Taste the soup to adjust the seasonings and salt. Stir in half of the chopped scallions, reserving the rest to use as garnish.

4. Serve dal along with rice, naan, or chapatis.

Red Flannel Hash

When it comes to quick dinners, eggs are nonpareil in my book. Father Winter reared his ugly head and after spending an hour or two shoveling after work, I needed a hearty dinner and I needed it fast. Red flannel hash often appears around St. Patrick's Day, but this ruby-hued beauty of a dish is a lovely meal all winter long.

My CSA provides an embarrassment of riches in the root vegetable department, along with some healthy (okay, disturbingly large) heads of cabbage, so this recipe is practically a love letter to the ingredients already in my fridge. The relative amounts of each ingredient aren't all that important, so assemble the ingredients in whatever ratio makes you happiest or helps you clean out of the fridge. After all, this began as a humble, hearty peasant breakfast, so there's no need to be to fussy with adhering to the recipe perfectly. 

Without too long of a cook time, the beets become sweet and caramelized, happily mingling with the starchy potatoes and crisp-tender cabbage. If you like your veggies with a little more texture, or simply can't wait to chow down, cook the eggs and serve promptly, but if you want this to stew the veggies down to a meltingly tender crimson mash before adding the eggs, it's equally delicious that way. The runny egg yolk glazes each bite with richness, but the traditional corned beef or some sausage or bacon certainly wouldn't be unwelcome for an even heartier meal.

Although it won't be red flannel hash without the beets, this template is still primed for experimentation with other root veggies, the celeriac and rutabaga in my fridge already clamoring for a starring role in the sequel. 

Red Flannel Hash

adapted from The Kitchn

serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 white or yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3-4 red or Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed and diced small (or shredded)
3 beets, peeled and diced small (or shredded)
1/2 head red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
4-6 large eggs

1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and 1/2 teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions become soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, herbs, and 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper. Stir until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 30 seconds.

2. Add the potatoes, beets, and another 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Stir everything together, cover the pan, and turn the heat down to medium. Cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the beets are tender. Don't worry if the potatoes start to fall apart a little - they are meant to! As you stir, be sure to scrape the bottom of the pan every so often to work in the browned bits from the pan.

3. When the beets are tender, stir in the cabbage. Cover and cook for another 3-5 minutes, until the cabbage is wilted. Give the mash a taste and add more salt and pepper if desired.

4. At this point, you can serve the mash right away or you can turn down the heat and let it simmer for as long as a half an hour. You can also take the mash off the heat completely and re-heat it when you're ready to serve.

5. Five minutes before you're ready to serve, crack the eggs around the circumference of the pan. Cover the pan and let the eggs poach for 5 minutes for runny yolks or 7 minutes for firm yolks. Scoop onto plates and serve.

Leek and Potato Soup with Winter Greens

Even at its most basic, potato leek soup is thing of beauty. Some sort of alchemy occurs when those two elements come together with just a little fat, salt, and water and the result is positively addictive. But that doesn't mean it's not worth tinkering with. This version is a slightly elevated version of  the basic, starting with an intensely flavored, silky homemade stock. Making stock from scratch certainly lengthens the time from fridge to table, but there's plenty of time for all the other prep work while it slowly simmers on the stove. The addition of fresh spinach or other winter greens ups the nutrition factor and lightens the body, with the final finishing touches of bright lemon juice and fresh dill uniting all the elements. A classic with a little hint of something extra, this soup is simple, soul-warming, from-scratch cookery at its finest. And that's exactly what you need when winter rears its ugly head.

Leek and Potato Soup with Winter Greens
adapted from Moosewood Restaurant New Classics
serves 6 to 8

10 cups water
3 leeks, sliced down the center and well-rinsed
1 1/2 cups peeled and coarsely chopped carrots
4 cups coarsely chopped potatoes
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups baby spinach, kale, or Swiss chard
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill (or 2 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Add water to a large soup pot. Cut the dark green tops off the leeks, rinse well to remove any hidden sand, and stir them into the pot. Add the carrots, about half of the potatoes, the thyme, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer the stock for about 45 minutes.

2. While the stock simmers, remove the root ends from the leeks, peel of the outermost later, and chop the white and most tender green parts.

3. In a large sup pot, saute the leeks in olive oil until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Strain the stock and add it to the fennel and leeks. Add the rest of the potatoes and simmer until soft, about 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach, dill, lemon juice, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

4. Puree the soup in batches in a blender or with an immersion blender until smooth and silky. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Thanksgiving 2013 in Review - Leftovers Redux

When it comes to holiday feasts, I'm mostly a traditionalist. This year, as in years past, I cooked up an entirely homemade feast of turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, candied sweet potatoes, roasted Brussels sprouts and squash, rolls, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie. While I relished each bite freshly prepared, the leftovers might be better than the main event. I ate my fill at dinner time and picked at leftovers throughout the day on Thursday, but Friday when was the experimenting began.

Leftovers found a new fate as soon as I woke up Friday morning, starting with oatmeal with candied sweet potatoes (made with butter, maple syrup, and walnuts) and cranberry sauce.

Sweet potatoes, turkey, and cranberry sauce found their way into my lunch in the form of turkey fried rice with sweet potatoes, peas, and a cranberry teriyaki sauce. If hadn't eaten all the squash and Brussels sprouts the day before, I would have used them here in lieu of the peas I had to retrieve from the freezer.

Cocktail hour is a fine way to start Friday night, with cranberry sauce finding a purpose there as well. In a take on a smash cocktail, I combined gin, cranberry sauce, lemon juice, and simple syrup, topped with an optional splash of soda water.

With my appetite properly whetted, I moved on to the main course - a turkey and Gruyere melt with cranberry sauce, a side of gravy for dipping, and candied sweet potato hash.

Saturday's lunch was a slapdash shepherd's pie, a fine place to use up turkey and any lingering veggies, or a way to sneak some fresh ones in.

The last of the mashed potatoes were devoured in a hearty Sunday morning breakfast of potato pancakes, dunked in the last of the gravy, and scrambled eggs with veggies.

Lunch was a bit lighter fare, the penultimate bits of turkey added to a spinach salad of red onion, dried cranberries, toasted walnuts, and blue cheese, topped with a cranberry sauce vinaigrette, and accompanied by the last of the rolls.

Breakfast for dinner is in the works for tonight, the very last of turkey likely finding its way into a hearty clean-out-the-fridge hash or quinoa stir-fry, officially closing out Thanksgiving and helping me get ready for my next winter CSA delivery on Wednesday.

So tell me, how did you use your leftovers?

Baked Potato Chips

I'm not sure if I love it or hate it that I get a five pound bag of amazing potatoes with every CSA delivery. While I love every bite of their starchy goodness, there's no denying that the arrival of such a bounty definitely increases my uptake of these delicious tubers to levels much higher than normal.
My red potatoes made first for a pretty fine soup and a few batches of fries, but then my thoughts turned to chips. I don't often buy them because I'll end up treating a bag of Kettle Chips as a single serving, but I'm certainly willing to put in a little effort if it gets me to salty snack nirvana at a more reasonable serving size. With just a little oil and generous dash of salt, the oven can produce some wonderfully satisfying chips.

Texture varies quite significantly with the thickness of the slices. Despite my best efforts, no oven baked chips will turn out exactly like the deep-fried variety, but these are amazingly satisfying. 1/4-inch-thick slices are roasted potatoes than actual chips, but the 1/8- to 3/16-inch-thick slices become quite light and crispy. This recipe is very basic, great for any potato you'd like to experiment with, but you'll want to check in periodically before you become familiar with how a particular type of potato cooks. The chips are delicious with just salt, but you should also try tossing them with any kind of spice blend or seasoning salt you like or adding cheesy flavor with freshly grated Parmesan or nutritional yeast (for vegans). They're not a health food by any means, but perhaps a bit more special than the store-bought variety, at least because of the effort that went into them. And if you feel so inclined, they make a pretty spectacular batch of Irish Nachos too.

Baked Potato Chips
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4

Olive oil cooking spray
2 pounds potatoes, cut into 1/8 to 3/16-inch-thick slices
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt, plus more for serving
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
Seasoning blend, to taste (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly coat 2 rimmed baking sheets with cooking spray; set aside. Put potatoes, oil, and salt in a large bowl; season with pepper, i. Toss to combine.

2. Arrange potato slices on prepared baking sheets, spacing them 1/4 inch apart. Bake, flipping periodically and rotating sheets halfway through, until potatoes are crisp and golden brown, about 25 to 30 minutes. Spread out potatoes on parchment paper; let dry 5 minutes. Sprinkle with additional salt and/or seasoning mix, if desired.

Cabbage, Potato and Leek Soup

Potato and leek soup is way more delicious than it deserves to be. Even at its most basic, the simple combination of leeks, potatoes, salt, and water, is amazingly delicious. But that being said, there's no reason not to experiment with the basic recipe, particularly when it uses up even more of my CSA vegetables.

I tend to go for a mixture of chunky and smooth in my potato-leek soup, but with cabbage playing an important role, the immersion blender stayed in the drawer. The leeks melt into the broth and the potatoes just begin to fall apart, blending with tangles of tender cabbage in each bite. Salt and pepper would be enough to season this dynamic combination, but the hint of herbaceous thyme and savory Parmesan really bring it all together. Thyme can be a polarizing ingredient, so use a light hand and swap it out for another herb if it's not to your liking. Hearty greens like spinach, kale, or chard, could be substituted for the cabbage, if necessary, but should be added at the end of the cooking process.

There have been a few schizophrenic weather turns, but these darker days and cool temperatures leave no doubt than winter's on its way. Even if I miss most of the daylight hours at work and have to bundle up each time I step outside, hearty bowls like this one are one the best reasons to embrace the season. Soup's on!

Cabbage, Potato and Leek Soup

adapted from the New York Times

serves 4

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 medium leeks, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
8 cups shredded cabbage

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 medium russet, Yukon Gold, or red potatoes, peeled and diced

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock or water

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Grated Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano, to serve (optional)

1. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat, add the leeks and cook until soft and golden around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cabbage and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage begins to caramelize, about 10 minutes.

2. Stir in potatoes, stock, 4 cups water, salt and thyme. Bring soup to a simmer and cook, partly covered, until potatoes begin to fall apart, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. Add more water, as needed, to reach the desired consistency. Season with additional salt and black pepper and serve, topped with cheese.

Leek, Potato and Spinach Stew

Remember when I said it was game on with heartier pasta? That philosophy also applies to soups and stews now that the cooler temperatures have arrived. Chili was my first foray into that territory this fall, but there's so much more to explore.

Leek and potato soup is one of my absolute favorite soups, and while it takes a lot to draw me from away from the classic recipe, this soup had too much extra going for it not to give it a shot.  While classic leek and potato soup is a wonderful side to a sandwich and salad, this stew turns that irresistible flavor into the main event. The low-fat turkey sausage adds a palate of delicious spices and richness, the beans and spinach ample heartiness, with a lovely fresh note from the generous helping of herbs. This is certainly a complete meal in a bowl, but it wouldn't be out of the question to serve it with a hunk of crusty bread to soak up all the delicious broth.

If you like to riff on recipes, as I am wont to do, I encourage you to experiment with other types of beans and hearty greens. Chickpeas and kale, perhaps? Although it's not quite as good as fresh off the stove or after a day or two in the fridge, extra portions of this soup will freeze pretty well for future meals. With my winter CSA starting next month, I can this recipe making a reappearance in my house in very short order.

Leek, Potato and Spinach Stew
adapted from Eating Well
serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 links hot or sweet Italian turkey or chicken sausage (6-7 ounces), casings removed (optional)
2 cups chopped leeks (about 2 leeks), white and light green parts only, rinsed well
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup dry white wine
1 pound new or red potatoes, halved and thinly sliced
4 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
8 ounces spinach, stemmed and chopped (about 8 cups)
1 bunch scallions, sliced
1 15-ounce can cannellini, navy, or other white beans, preferably no-salt-added, rinsed
1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as dill, chervil, chives and/or parsley

1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add sausage, if using, and leeks and cook, stirring occasionally and crumbling the sausage with a wooden spoon, until the leeks are tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and salt and stir until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add wine, cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Uncover and cook until the wine is almost evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add potatoes and broth; cover and bring to a boil. Stir in spinach and scallions and cook, covered, until the potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in beans. Cover and let stand for 1 minute. Divide among 6 soup bowls and sprinkle each portion with herbs.

Creamy Red Potato Salad

I can't believe we're already at summer's end. While I am anxious to transition into fall, my favorite season, Labor Day weekend is one last chance to enjoy the trappings of summer. There are many foods I rarely eat if not at a backyard barbecue or picnic, potato salad being one of them. The last time I was struck by a craving I was dining solo, so I decided to create a single-serving recipe. I really enjoy experimenting with recipes on the single serving scale, which gives me the opportunity to adjust the balance of flavors many times before presenting my newest creation to a crowd (though I'll do a bit of tweaking at that scale too). Most of the time I gravitate towards the vinegary potato salads instead of the heavy, creamy variety, but this simple dressing strikes a nice balance between the two. A generous helping of fresh herbs helps give the potato salad a lighter feel, and nearly any one you love will do, with dill being my personal favorite. There's no reason to skip this starchy delight when you're dining alone, a perfect partner to a meaty meal off the grill or a towering sandwich from the deli.

Creamy Red Potato Salad
serves 1

6 ounces baby red potatoes, scrubbed and quartered
1 1/2 tablespoons light or regular mayo (or sour cream or yogurt)
1/2 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon cider vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped herbs (dill, chives, parsley, etc.)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl whisk together mayo, mustard, vinegar, and herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add hot potatoes to mayo mixture and toss to coat evenly. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold.

Ramp and Potato Soup

Ramps are one of my favorite vegetables. These wild leeks have an all-too-fleeting season, their special hybrid garlic-onion flavor one of the most unique tastes of spring. While asparagus is a well-known and lauded harbinger of spring, these delightful veggies really lead the way for the season. Their first appearance at the farmers' market fills me with great joy and I can't resist buying them every week they are there. Ramps are inherently so flavorful that they never need more than a simple preparation to create an intensely delicious dish. I've used ramps to make soups, pastas, pizza, risotto, and frittatas in the past, but this time my first thought was a riff on the classic leek and potato soup. Leek and potato soup is already a stunningly flavorful dish for such humble ingredients and swapping in ramps brings the taste to an even more exceptional heights. A perfect blend of the heartiness and freshness, this simple combination of ingredients is the purest taste of early spring and an exceptional way to embrace the season.

Ramp and Potato Soup
adapted from Food Network
serves 4

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 pound fresh ramps, cleaned and cut into 2-inch pieces
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf 

4 cloves of garlic, minced

1 quart chicken or vegetable stock 

1 pound new or red potatoes, quartered
2 tablespoons heavy cream or half-and-half, (optional)

1. Melt the butter in a stock pot over medium-high heat. Add the ramps and season with salt and black pepper. Saute until the ramps are wilted and soft, about 6 minutes. Add the bay leaf and garlic, stirring for 2 minutes. Add the stock and potatoes and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are very soft and the mixture is thick and creamy, about 1 hour.

2. Remove the soup from the heat. Discard the bay leaf. Coarsely mash potatoes with a potato masher or blend with an immersion blender. Slowly add the cream, if using, and stir to blend. Reseason the soup.

Roasted Salmon, Red Cabbage, and Potatoes

As much I love cooking, some nights I just want a healthy homemade dinner to magically appear in front me. I may not be able to wave a wand and make that happen, but this recipe is pretty close. I love a one pot meal, especially one that requires little attention while it's cooking. I've roasted plenty of salmon and potatoes  before, both separately and together, but I'd honestly never thought of roasting cabbage. As it turns out, cabbage was destined for roasting! I don't know why I'm surprised I've found yet another roasted vegetable I love, but after many raw slaws and tender sautes, I'm particularly delighted by this crispy, crunchy cabbage. A classic combination of mustard, horseradish and lemon becomes a delicious crust atop the salmon with a generous spray of lemon juice popping against the deep roasted flavor all the elements share. This recipe is simple enough for a family meal, yet elegant enough for a last-minute dinner party, mere minutes of prep yielding an inviting meal for any occasion.

Roasted Salmon, Red Cabbage, and Potatoes
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4

4 cups shredded red cabbage (from half a small head)
1.5 pounds red or new potatoes, halved or quartered, depending on size
Extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound skinless salmon fillet
2 tablespoons grainy or Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons horseradish
Zest of 1 lemon plus lemon juice

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss cabbage and potatoes with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Roast for 25 minutes. Smear salmon with a mixture of mustard, horseradish and lemon zest. Nestle in pan, and roast 15 minutes. Squeeze lemon juice over all.

Spicy Stewed Potatoes and Spinach with Coconut Milk

Indian food is one of the cuisines I came to much later in life. I now live in a culinary utopia, but I grew up in an area where most of the people were only aware of Indian "culture" through Apu on The Simpsons. I was lucky to have parents who valued other cultures and taught me as much as they could about the worlds beyond my tiny hometown, but that still didn't change the fact that there wasn't anywhere to go out for curry and naan. Now that I'm cooking for myself, I find that Indian culinary tradition is one I go back to frequently, especially when I'm making vegetarian meals. This recipe combines hearty potatoes and gently cooked spinach with spicy chiles, fresh cilantro,and creamy coconut milk to create a filling dish that satisfies all of your taste buds. It is rather gentle with the traditional spices, using turmeric instead of the full suite of curry spices, and a nice way to gradually introduce novices to the lovely flavors of Indian cuisine. More adventurous palates or those better acquainted with Indian food may want to substitute the turmeric with curry powder, whose myriad ingredients are just as eagerly soaked up by the potatoes and spinach. Chicken, fish, or tofu would feel most at home next to this on your dinner plate, but it could be served over rice or quinoa for a hearty, starchy dinner.

Spicy Stewed Potatoes and Spinach with Coconut Milk

adapted from Eating Well

serves 4

1 pound Yukon Gold or red potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
2 dried red chiles, such as Thai, cayenne, chile de arbol, or guajillo, stemmed
1 cup boiling water
1/2 cup firmly packed fresh cilantro
4 large cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon salt, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric (or curry powder, to taste)
1/2 cup light coconut milk
8 ounces baby spinach

1. Place potatoes in a medium bowl; cover with cold water to prevent browning. Place chiles in a small heatproof bowl and pour the boiling water over them. Set aside until they are reconstituted, about 15 minutes. Reserving the chile-soaking water, coarsely chop the chiles (do not seed).

2. Pile cilantro, garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt and the chopped chiles in a mortar. Pound the ingredients to a pulpy mass with the pestle, using a spatula to contain the mixture in the center for a concentrated pounding. (Alternatively, mince the ingredients in a food processor.)

3. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring, until the garlic is honey-brown and the chiles are pungent, 1 to 2 minutes. (Make sure to use adequate ventilation.) Drain the potatoes and add along with turmeric; cook, stirring to coat the potatoes with the yellow spice, about 30 seconds. Pour in the reserved chile-soaking water and scrape the pan to loosen any browned bits; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are fork-tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

4. When the potatoes are tender, pile the spinach leaves over them, add remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, cover and cook until the spinach is wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the coconut milk mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve promptly.

Curried Potatoes with Cauliflower

I've been sharing quite a few red cabbages recipes lately (with many more still in queue), so I thought I'd switch gears and share a recipe for another few of vegetables of which I've been blessed (or burdened) with an overabundance - potatoes, carrots, and onions. Cauliflower and potato curry is a favorite around my house, and while I was tempted to revisit that standby, I chose this recipe to make a bigger dent in my root vegetable stores. At first I was worried that I would miss the chickpeas, but I found the carrots to be a more that ample substitute, the sweetness a nice complement to the starchy potatoes and aromatic spices. This curry follows uses a traditional assortment of spices to unite the generous portions of vegetables and permeate the house with irresistible aromas that will bring everyone vegans, vegetarians, and omnivores alike to the dinner table. The depths of winter demand hearty, satisfying foods and this dish is the perfect healthy alternative to adored, yet heavy, classics like meatloaf and lasagna. Accidentally vegan, but hearty enough for big winter appetites, this meal is great way to welcome anyone in from the cold.

Curried Potatoes with Cauliflower
adapted from Eating Well
serves 4

1 tablespoon mustard seeds, preferably brown
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 onions, chopped (2 cups)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, if desired, and minced
1 1/2 tablespoons ground coriander
1 tablespoon curry powder, preferably Madras
1 pound all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks (3 cups)
2 cups water
1 head cauliflower, cut into small florets (4 cups)
2 cups sliced carrots
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons chopped toasted nuts, such as almonds, cashews or pistachios (see Tip)
Sour cream or yogurt, for serving (optional)
Naan, rice, or quinoa, for serving (optional)

1. Toast mustard seeds in a small dry skillet over low heat, stirring constantly, until they start to pop, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl to cool.

2. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or soup pot over medium-low heat. Add onions, sugar and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden, 10 to 15 minutes. (Add 1 or 2 tablespoons water if mixture starts to burn.) 

3. Add garlic, ginger, jalapeños, coriander, curry powder and the toasted mustard seeds; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes more.

4. Add potatoes and water; bring to a simmer. Cover and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add cauliflower and carrots and simmer, covered, until tender and the sauce has thickened, about 10 minutes more. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving dish or individual plates and garnish with cilantro and toasted nuts, with a side of naan, rice, or quinoa.

Roasted Beet and Potato Borscht

I've never cared much for beets. Since my parents were children of the poorly-cooked vegetables of the 1950s, I was not subjected to many of the most-feared vegetables of childhood like Brussels sprouts and beets. I was never a horribly picky kid, scarfing down carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, corn, green beans, and sugar snap peas with much aplomb, coming to adulthood with an ever-growing palate. Now that I'm an adult, I'm happy to revisit these much-maligned vegetables. I'll confess I've given away most of my CSA beets these past few years, overwhelmed with so many other root vegetables that I didn't have the time or inclination to experiment too much with something that I only had a passing interest in. But this year was the year I finally tackled the beet challenge! As I had suspected, the key to making me adore this vegetable was roasting it. Roasting takes beets from tasting like, quite frankly, dirt, to a sweet and earthy treat. That caramelization forms most of the flavor base, played up with a splash of vinegar and handful of fresh thyme. I'm glad this was one of the recipes I kicked off 2013 with - if it's any indication of my culinary destiny for the year, it'll be organic, local, healthy, and full of flavor.

Roasted Beet and Potato Borscht

from Martha Stewart

serves 4

2 pounds red beets, scrubbed, peeled, and diced medium
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and diced medium
2 shallots, coarsely chopped
3 to 5 sprigs thyme
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and ground pepper
5 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth or water
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
Sour cream, (optional)
Chopped fresh parsley (optional)
Thinly sliced scallion greens (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet, toss together beets, potatoes, shallots, thyme, and olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer and roast until beets and potatoes are cooked through, about 45 minutes.

2. Discard thyme. Add vegetables to a medium pot, along with broth. Bring to a simmer over medium-high. With a potato masher or back of a wooden spoon, mash some vegetables until soup is thick and chunky. Stir in vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, top with sour cream, parsley, and scallion greens, if desired.

Creamy Root Vegetable Soup

The only thing I can count on with my winter CSA is that I'm going to get a lot of squash and root vegetables. I'm always browsing for recipes that use up a lot of one vegetable, but once I'm done with I'm those, I'm often left with an assortment of small amount of vegetables that I'm not quite sure what to do with. The last bits of my first CSA box included parsnips, celeriac, carrots, potatoes, and leeks, so it seemed almost supernatural fortune to find this recipe that used up all my odds and ends. Although there's a lot going on root vegetable-wise in this soup, they all balance each other nicely. The carrots, celeriac, and leeks are a subtle variation on the classic mirepoix, with the parsnips adding a bit of zestiness and the potatoes body and creaminess. Blending the vegetables makes this hearty soup silky and infuses garlic and fresh herbs into every bite. Although the particular combination of root vegetables and herbs was especially delicious, this recipe is also an excellent template for experimentation. Between plates of indulgence at holiday celebrations, use this recipe to fill yourself with healthy vegetables and brilliant winter flavor.

Creamy Root Vegetable Soup

adapted from Food and Wine

serves 4

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 pound parsnips, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 small celery root, peeled and sliced 1/3 inch thick
2 medium carrots, thinly sliced
1 medium red potato, cut into 1-inch dice
1 large leek, white and tender green, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 fresh thyme sprigs
Salt
1 quart chicken or vegetable stock or canned low-sodium broth, defatted
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the parsnips, celery root, carrots, potato, leek, garlic, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 cup of water. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the liquid has evaporated and the vegetables start to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the stock, cover the pan and reduce the heat to moderately low. Cook until the vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Transfer the soup to a blender and puree until smooth, then season with salt and pepper. (Alternatively, blend the soup in the both with an immersion blender). Ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkle with the rosemary and serve.

Breakfast Poutine

I'm still on my poutine kick for Packer snacks. An over-the-top, decadent food that I'll eagerly try any time I see it on a menu, since I first made it myself at home I can't stop tinkering with the recipe. So far I've shared a classic poutine recipe and Reuben variation, but if you want to indulge in poutine for breakfast or brunch, this is really the recipe for you. We all know the cliche that bacon makes everything better, and quite often the same case can be made for a fried egg, its addition taking this poutine even further into the indulgent category. This is an unabashedly decadent meal - crisp and smoky bacon, salty and squeaky cheese curds, starchy and hearty potatoes, rich and runny egg, all happily co-mingling until a silky blanket of gravy. To complete your brunch or football-watching experience, pair this with a breakfast stout, hard cider, or other boozy brunch beverage your of choice (although I don't think mimosas quite work with this heavy-duty dish) and enjoy some quality time with friends or family. Go Pack Go!

Breakfast Poutine
gravy recipe adapted from The Food Network
serves 2

1/2 tablespoon canola oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 tablespoon finely minced garlic
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup beef stock
1 tablespoon ketchup
1/2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
12 ounces frozen french fries
4 slices bacon (about 3 ounces)
2 large eggs
4 ounces fresh cheese curds, at room temperature or slightly warm

1. Make the gravy: Heat canola oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and beef stock, ketchup, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce and bring to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the flour and make a roux, stirring until slightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk the stock mixture into the roux and simmer until reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Season the gravy with salt and pepper and keep warm.

3. While the gravy is simmering bake the fries according to package directions. Shortly before the fries are ready to come out of the oven, strain the gravy.

4. Meanwhile, cook bacon in a pan over medium heat until crisp. Remove from pan and drain on paper towels, leaving about 1 tablespoon of bacon grease in the pan. When cool, crumble into medium pieces.

5. Crack the eggs into the hot pan containing the bacon grease, frying until whites are set and yolk is warm, but runny, flipping halfway through, or to desired level of doneness.  (If you're unsure as to how to cook over-easy eggs, check out Alton Brown's expert instructions here).

6. Split french fries between two plates, topping each with half of the cheese curds and bacon, and one egg. Pour the hot gravy over the top and serve promptly.

Smoky Charred Cauliflower and Potato Soup with Kale

Although today's 70-plus degree temperatures may make you think otherwise, we are fully entrenched in fall. Fall is my favorite season, in part because of the many cozy food traditions I eagerly anticipate and embrace every year. While I eat salads nearly constantly in the summer, I eat soups all fall. It could be because both of these dishes are ways to pack tons of veggies into your diet or that they easily embrace the season's best produce, but they are absolutely indispensable to my diet. Like so many recipes I find, I came across this while trying to figure out how best to utilize an overly enthusiastic farmers' market haul. I was hardly able to believe my luck when I found a recipe containing the three veggies I was trying to use up - potatoes, cauliflower, and kale - with the added bonus of using some of the can of chipotle chiles I opened for Smoky Chipotle Black Bean Chili. Chipotle chiles in adobo are another really high-mileage ingredient - just a couple chiles give the soup a nice smokiness with just a nice level of heat (disclaimer : if you like it spicy, you can definitely add more chipotles or adobo sauce, but proceed with caution). The pureed cauliflower mixture gives the soup silkiness, contrasted nicely by rustic, hearty chunks of potato and tender kale. This soup can be a meal in itself, but a side salad and nice chunk of bread with butter certainly would be welcome for those with heartier appetites.

Smoky Charred Cauliflower and Potato Soup with Kale
from Serious Eats
makes about 3 quarts, serving 6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1 small head cauliflower, cut into 1-inch florets (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 medium onion, finely sliced (about 1 cup)
3 garlic cloves, grated on a microplane grater
2 chipotle chiles packed in adobo sauce, chopped fine, with 1 tablespoon sauce from can
2 quarts water
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and chopped into 2-inch chunks
1/2 pound kale leaves, thick stems removed, leaves roughly chopped
2 bay leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat olive oil in a Dutch oven or large saucepan over high heat until shimmering. Add cauliflower and cook, stirring occasionally until well browned and lightly charred on all sides, about 10 minutes total, reducing heat as necessary if smoking cauliflower starts to burn or oil smokes too heavily.

2. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and chipotles and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add half of water and bring to a boil. Simmer until cauliflower is completely tender, about 5 minutes.

3. Using a hand blender or standing blender, puree cauliflower/onion/chipotle mixture until smooth. Return to pot. Add remaining water, potatoes, kale, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer, and cook until potato is easily smashed and incorporated into broth, about 30 minutes.

4. Remove bay leaves and mash potatoes with a large spoon or potato masher. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve, drizzling with extra-virgin olive oil.

Reuben Poutine

Although I can't say I've been too pleased with some of Packer games so far, my snacks have been right on. I started off the season with Classic Poutine, and since then have come up with a few of my own variations, the first of which I'm sharing with you now. Adapting the Reuben to new dishes is kind of a theme with me (see Reuben Dip or Reuben Pizza), so it only seemed natural to make Reuben poutine. Classic poutine is a pure expression of savoriness, and while this poutine variation gains an extra salty, savory component (corned beef), the sour bite of the sauerkraut provides the perfect surprising contrast that allows each ingredient to pop. Although rye bread is swapped out for crispy fries and gravy replaces Thousand Island/Russian dressing, the spirit of the Reuben remains intact in this new spin on a classic. Perfectly paired with a porter or stout, this takes football snacking to a whole new level, satisfying even the heartiest of appetites.

Reuben Poutine
gravy adapted from The Food Network
serves 2

1/2 tablespoon canola oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 tablespoon finely minced garlic
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup beef stock
1 tablespoon ketchup
1/2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
12 ounces frozen french fries
1/4 cup sauerkraut, drained and at room temperature or slightly warm

4 ounces shredded corned beef, at room temperature or slightly warm

4 ounces fresh cheese curds, at room temperature or slightly warm

1. Make the gravy: Heat canola oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and beef stock, ketchup, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce and bring to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the flour and make a roux, stirring until slightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk the stock mixture into the roux and simmer until reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Season the gravy with salt and pepper and keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, bake the fries according to package directions. Shortly before the fries are ready to come out of the oven, strain the gravy.

4. Divide the fries evenly between two shallow dishes, layering half of the sauerkraut, corned beef, and cheese curds on top of each pile of fries. Pour half the hot gravy over each and serve warm.

Classic Poutine

Football season is here! And in my house, Packer games means Packer snacks (and now that I'm old enough, appropriate Wisconsin craft beer pairings). Packer games became a Sunday tradition with my dad when I was just a little girl, and although I've graduated from crying when the Packers lose, I still honor the football and snacking ritual I learned in my formative years. I wanted to start off this year with a bang (although apparently the Packers did not), so I decided to try my hand at poutine, one of my favorite indulgences. Although it is a French-Canadian dish in origin, poutine has Wisconsin written all over it. How a dish that features fresh cheese curds took so long to make its way to at least moderate renown in Wisconsin is beyond me, but I'm very glad it has. (The Coopers Tavern is my favorite place for poutine. I had to really resist the urge to dress it up right out the gate (my mind is filled a thousand ideas), but I thought it best to start with a basic recipe. In its easiest form, this could be made with store-bought gravy, curds, and fries, or in its most culinary permutation with homemade versions of all those things, but I struck a happy medium with high-quality frozen fries, fresh cheese curds from the farmers' market, and a homemade gravy based on a recipe from (a Canadian chef on) the Food Network. Springy and squeaky fresh curds are miles ahead of shredded cheese as a fry topping, the perfect contrast to crisp fries, all united under a blanket of silky gravy. This plate of pure savoriness wasn't quite enough to make up for the poor Packer performance, but sure did bring a smile to my face as I took my first bite the instant the kicker's foot hit the ball at kickoff (another tradition of mine). Though its roots lie in French-Canadian cuisine, this dish is more than at home in Wisconsin and the perfect snack for your next Packer party.

Classic Poutine
adapted from The Food Network
serves 2

1/2 tablespoon canola oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 tablespoon finely minced garlic
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup beef stock
1 tablespoon ketchup
1/2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

12 ounces frozen french fries
4 ounces fresh cheese curds, at room temperature

1. Make the gravy: Heat canola oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken and beef stock, ketchup, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce and bring to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the flour and make a roux, stirring until slightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk the stock mixture into the roux and simmer until reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Season the gravy with salt and pepper and keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, bake the fries according to package directions. Shortly before the fries are ready to come out of the oven, strain the gravy.

4. Divide the fries evenly between two shallow dishes; top with the cheese curds and gravy. Serve warm.