Avocado Yogurt Dressing

Food can be both very healing and very damaging to your physical and mental health. Unfortunately, I was recently diagnosed with shingles, and after getting the appropriate prescriptions and advice from the doctor, I set to work figuring out how I could help heal myself through food and other lifestyle choices. If you're not familiar with shingles, it is the chicken pox virus reactivating in your nerve tissue, causing headaches, achiness, fatigue, and a blistering rash that makes the affected area as sensitive as an open nerve (the right side of my torso and back, in my case). And what's worse, this usually lasts around a month. Considering a light breeze or simply my shirt touching my skin causes a lot pain, I've had a much more relaxed lifestyle lately, leaving me with ample time to do some research on what else I could do to heal myself. I'm a scientist, so I'm very critical when it comes to buying into to folk remedies and the like, but I did find some evidence that diets high in lysine and low in arginine can help fight off viruses in the same family as shingles. I was disappointed to find out this means cutting back on nuts and chocolate, two of my favorite things, but I don't mind getting permission to eat a little more cheese, eggs, and meat, and the avocado and yogurt that compose this dressing.

And it doesn't get much easier to sneak in some edible medicine than making a dip or dressing! The avocado and yogurt are wonderfully rich and creamy, and the lime, garlic, and hot sauce liven it up just enough with brightness and spice. I've happily poured this over salads, spread it on sandwiches, used it as a dip for crackers, veggies, and chicken strips, and even used it in a dressed-up tuna salad. Whether you're looking for a little extra nutrition or simply a delicious new condiment, this dressing has you covered.

Avocado Yogurt Dressing
makes about 2 cups

1 large avocado (about 6 ounces flesh)
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
3/4 cup yogurt
1/4 cup + 2 T. extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves
1/2 T. hot sauce (I like Chipotle Tabasco or Sriracha), plus more to taste
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1. Blend all ingredients together in a food processor or blender. Taste and season with additional salt and hot sauce, if desired

Asparagus, Mushroom, and Provolone Wraps with Swiss Chard Pecan Pesto

One of my big "secrets" to feeding myself well and in a hurry is having a cache of delicious sauces at the ready. I prefer the nights when I can linger over the cooking and eating of my dinner, but when things are busy, I follow a general recipe of protein + veggie + grain + sauce, using whatever I happen to have on hand that sounds good. Often I resort to a bottle of teriyaki sauce from Whole Foods, but it is so much better when I can dip into a batch of homemade spicy peanut sauce or pesto, like this one.

There are some pesto purists out there that might object to a non-pine nut and basil-based recipe, but I'm not one of them. As long as the combination of greens/herbs, nuts, and cheese is delicious one, I'm all for it, and I might even eat a vegan pesto from time to time. This wonderfully rich and savory sauce is a happy companion to pasta, as pestos tend to be, but there are so many more possibilities, like this wrap.

I've included instructions for cooking the asparagus and mushrooms from scratch, but I came up with the wrap when I had extra grilled asparagus and mushrooms from my Father's Day cookout to use up. If I'm firing up the grill, I always cook beyond the meal I'm about to eat because nothing beat the smoky caramelization al fresco cooking achieves. Pesto adds another savory layer to charred vegetables and smoky provolone in this simple wrap, a satisfying sandwich for carnivores and vegetarians alike. Although I definitely prefer this warm, it's still pretty good cold, so give it a try even if you don't have the time or tools for a hot wrap.

The pesto recipe makes far more sauce than you'll need for these wraps, so get creative with the rest. After you've had a bowl or two of pasta, try drizzling some on your eggs, perking up a tuna melt, making a salad dressing, or combining it with whatever protein and veggies are on the menu that day.

Asparagus, Mushroom, and Provolone Wraps with Swiss Chard Pecan Pesto
pesto adapted from The Kitchn
makes  approximately 1 1/2 cups

For the pesto:
1/2 cup chopped pecans
8 ounces Swiss chard, trimmed, rinsed and chopped
1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

For the wrap (ingredients per wrap) :
4 ounces asparagus, trimmed
4 ounces cremini, shiitake, or portobello mushrooms, thickly slice
Extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 whole grain tortilla
1 to 2 slices provolone cheese

For the pesto:
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the nuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and roast them in the oven until they are golden and fragrant, about 10 minutes

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Have a large bowl of cold water ready. Drop the chopped Swiss chard into the boiling water. When the water returns to a boil, swirl the kale around a few times until it becomes limp.

3. Drain the Swiss chard and plunge it into the cold water. Drain again, then place the chard on a clean dishtowel and blot away the moisture.

4. Place the nuts, chard, Parmesan, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a blender and puree until uniformly smooth. You may need to add more olive oil to reach desired consistency.

5. To refrigerate, cover with plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pesto. Will stay fresh for up to 3 days. To freeze, place desired portions in small containers with plastic directly on the surface of the pesto, or place in plastic freezer bags, and freeze for up to two months.

For the wrap:
1. Prepare a grill over medium-high heat. Meanwhile toss asparagus spears and sliced mushrooms with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill vegetables until charred in spots and tender, about 2 to 4 minutes per side, depending on the thickness of the asparagus spears and mushroom slices. (Alternatively, saute the vegetables in a pan over medium to medium high heat).

2. Preheat a pan over medium heat. Lay tortilla on a flat surface and place cheese in the center of the tortilla, cutting slice(s) in half, if necessary. Top with asparagus spears and then sliced mushrooms, and drizzle a tablespoon or two of pesto over the top. Roll up the tortilla, using a little extra pesto to help seal, and place, seam side down, in the pan. Cook until tortilla is golden brown and cheese is melted, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Slice in half and serve promptly, with extra pesto on the side.

Cauliflower Fried Rice with Shrimp

Unless I'm medically required, you'll never catch me signing up for a restrictive diet. I'm not dropping gluten or becoming a vegan, and you'll certainly never catch me going paleo. But just because I don't buy in fully to one of those lifestyles, it doesn't mean I can't glean a few good ideas. The recent popularity of the gluten and paleo diets has led people to find a lot of creative alternatives for bread and grains, one of them being cauliflower. Although I'm not about to stop chowing down on (whole) grains, I am definitely for adding more vegetables to my diet, so I decided to give cauliflower rice a shot.

Fried rice is one of my go-to dinners when I'm short on time, have a lot of odds and ends in the fridge that need to be used up, or both, and I figured incorporating this new prep into a tried-and-true favorite was a good place to start. Other than using cauliflower, this a classic fried rice recipe, full of all the flavors you hope to find in your Chinese take-out and the perfect vehicle to test drive this new substitution. And you know what? This turned out just as wonderful as the original. Grated cauliflower has a strikingly similar texture to cooked rice and soaks up flavors just as eagerly, with the added benefit of picking up an even more delicious brown crust. It may not replace the original version, but this certainly hasn't seen its last appearance at my dinner table.

Cauliflower Fried Rice with Shrimp
adapted from The Kitchn
serves 2

1/2 head cauliflower

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, plus more for finishing
2 eggs, beaten

8 ounces shrimp, peeled (and deveined, if desired)
1/2 cup diced or shredded carrots
1/2 cup frozen peas
4 scallions, sliced into thin rounds
2 to 3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 to 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1/2-inch freshly grated ginger

2-3 cloves minced garlic 

Sriracha or other hot suace

1. Cut cauliflower into quarters. Grate cauliflower using grater or food processor until coarse.

2. Place a skillet over medium heat and add a teaspoon of oil. Scramble the eggs, breaking them into small curds. When the eggs are just barely cooked, scrape them into a clean dish and set them aside.

3.  Add another teaspoon of oil to the pan, add the shrimp, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until shrimp is opaque and cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes, depending on the size of the shrimp.

4. Add another teaspoon of oil to the pan and stir in the grated cauliflower. Make sure all the grains of cauliflower are coated with a little oil, then spread the rice into a thin layer across the bottom of the pan. Let it cook for a few minutes, then gather it together and spread it out thin again. Continue until the rice is toasted and beginning to brown.

5. Add two tablespoons of soy sauce, one tablespoon of rice wine vinegar, and ginger and garlic and stir. Add the peas and carrots, cooking until they are tender and warmed through. Stir in the eggs, shrimp, and scallions.

6. Taste and add more soy sauce and rice wine vinegar if needed. Finish with hot sauce and sesame oil, to taste

Spinach Enchiladas

Rick Bayless will forever be my go-to source for Mexican recipes, but I'm starting to think Joe Yonan has some pretty good ideas too. Mexican food doesn't have to be thoroughly authentic to be deeply satisfying, and I definitely have a fondness for both the Americanized and authentic versions. Just as gratifying as your favorite greasy Mexican joint, but without a requirement to be dressed for public dining, this meal is the perfect way to indulge your craving with a hint of authenticity and without settling for the Taco Bell drive-through.

I'm a sucker for anything in a tortilla, from whole wheat roasted veggie wraps, to fish tacos in homemade corn tortillas, to greasy quesadillas and everything in between. This recipe is a great balance of flavor, health, and convenience, using a collection of pantry staples and fresh vegetables to get this gorgeous meal into the oven in less than half an hour. Yogurt makes the quickly cooked vegetables wonderfully creamy with low caloric impact, tucked happily into tender corn tortillas with savory tomato sauce. Dipping the tortillas into the sauce before stuffing and rolling is a simple step that makes all the different in unifying the ingredients, though coating everything in a gentle layer of cheese certainly doesn't hurt. I can't imagine a Mexican dish without cilantro, but if your genetic misfortune means it leaves a soapy taste in your mouth, feel free to leave it out. This meal is plenty hearty as is, but beans, mushrooms, or chicken certainly wouldn't be unwelcome additions to the spinach.

Spinach Enchiladas
adapted from Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot lobe, chopped, or 1/4 cup finely chopped white or yellow onion
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/2 small to medium jalapeno, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs for extra heat)
3 cups lightly packed baby spinach leaves, washed and dried (about 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons whole Greek-style yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche
2 (6-inch) corn tortillas
2/3 cup flavorful store-bought or homemade tomato sauce, thinned with 2 to 3 tablespoons of water
1/4 cup grated Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Pour the oil into a small skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the shallot, garlic, and jalapeno and cook until soft but not browned. Add the spinach and stir-fry until it has just wilted, then scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the yogurt. Season with salt to taste.

3. Warm the tortillas to make them more pliable : either microwave them for a few seconds or heat them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat for about 10 seconds on each side, just enough to soften them. (If you have a gas stove, you can also put hem directly on the burner grate over the flame for a few seconds on each side.) Immediately wrap them in foil to keep them warm.

4. Pour the thinned-out tomato sauce into the skillet that you sauteed the shallow mixture in and bring it to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to love so that the sauce is barely simmering. Use tongs to dip the tortillas into the sauce one at a time, leaving them in for a just a few seconds; lift them out, letting the excess sauce drip off, and transfer them to a plate.

5. Spread about a quarter of the sauce on the bottom of a small casserole or individual gratin dish. Lay the softened tortillas on a work surface. Place half the spinach mixture in the center of each one, then roll the tortillas to form enchiladas and arrange them seam side down on top of the layer of sauce in the casserol dish. Spoon the remaining sauce on top and sprinkle with the grated cheese.

6. Bake until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbling, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle the enchiladas with the cilantro and eat hot.

Dal Palak

Pretty much every Monday night it is both Meatless Monday and big batch cooking night at my house. Monday might not be the night most people use to be ambitious after work, but I like to use the first night of the week fill up the freezer and get some laundry done while dinner is bubbling away on the stove. Crossing off a long to-do list is my solution to the Monday doldrums, making what would be a drag of a day anyway move a lot more quickly and starting the week on a productive note.

For all the cuisines that make an appearance on my Monday night, I think Indian is the most common. All manner of vegetables and legumes, even many you wouldn't normally expect, take expertly to sweet, savory, and spicy Indian-inspired flavors. They're also ideal candidates for big batch Meatless Monday because they are often healthy, inexpensive, and freeze really well. This trifecta of qualities is what makes a recipe worth investing significant prep and cooking time, provided the outcome is still a delicious dish. And while neither I, or the author of the original, will claim this is the most authentic recipe, there's no denying that this fridge-clearing pile of veggies and melange of spices meet all those criteria perfectly.

For the dinner and lunch the day after, I ate this over brown rice with a dollop of yogurt and dash of hot sauce, but if I get some time to make naan, you can bet this will be one of the first companions it sees. Baked tofu, chicken, or even eggs would also perch perfectly atop this healthy plate if you're feeling especially ravenous.

Dal Palak
adapted from The Kitchn

makes about 8 cups

1 large onion, diced
2 packages (about 16 ounces) white button or baby bella mushrooms, roughly chopped
2 medium-sized red or white potatoes, cubed
1 inch fresh ginger, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons coriander
1 Tablespoon garam masala
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 28-ounce can of diced tomatoes
10 ounce bunch of spinach or other hearty green (kale, chard, etc.) cleaned and cut into ribbons
1 cup lentils
3 cups of water or broth
1-2 Tablespoons salt
Chopped scallions, for topping (optional)
Plain yogurt or sour cream, for topping (optional)
Hot sauce, for topping (optional)

1. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a large dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions, the mushrooms, and one teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions are translucent and the mushrooms show spots of golden brown. Add the potatoes and another teaspoon of salt, and cook until the edges are just starting to turn translucent.

2. Clear a space in the middle of the pan and add the ginger, garlic, spices, and one more teaspoon of salt. Cook until the garlic is fragrant (30 seconds), and then stir the spices into the mix. Add the diced tomatoes in their juices, the spinach, and the lentils. Stir to combine everything and then top with three cups of water or broth.

3. Turn the heat to high and bring the soup to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and let the soup simmer for about 45 minutes until the lentils and potatoes are cooked through. Taste the soup to adjust the seasonings and salt. Stir in half of the chopped scallions, reserving the rest to use as garnish.

4. Serve dal along with rice, naan, or chapatis.

Butternut Squash and Pea Curry

I'm a little hesitant to make any recipe with the word winter in name right now, but just because I've grown tired of winter weather doesn't mean I've lost love for everything bearing that moniker. Be it November or March, the sweet creaminess of butternut squash is a perfect mate for curry, and I won't deny myself one of my favorite veggies just because of its seasonal name. A squash by any other name would taste as sweet...

Mark Bittman specializes in bringing good food, in terms of flavor and nutrition, to the masses. I've been lucky enough to see him speak, and his palpable passion for sustainable, healthy, flavorful food combined with pragmatism is what I think has made his approach resonate with so many people. This recipe is a prime example of that enthusiastic, yet practical approach, tons of flavor and nutrition packed into an inexpensive meal that is prepared quickly and freezes well. There's no special twist or magic to this recipe, just a classic combination of ingredients with an undeniable affinity for each other, that I've made even more flexible. The hearty base squash or sweet potato base eagerly soaks up aromatic curry spices and rich coconut milk, happily punctuated with verdant peas or beans for a well-rounded collection of vegetal flavors.

Even in its simplest form, this is a flavorful vegan dinner, but I encourage you to dress it up to your heart's content. Plain yogurt, hot sauce, and fresh cilantro are my finishes of choice, but particularly ravenous diners may also want to include grilled chicken or tofu. Whether mixed into a bowl of rice, or messily scooped with naan or pita, you'll leave this meal feeling healthy and satisfied.

Butternut Squash and Pea Curry

adapted from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman

serves 4

2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

2 to 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 1/2 pounds butternut or other winter squash, peeled and roughly chopped (or sweet potatoes, or a combination)

1/2 to 1 cup fresh or frozen peas (or green beans)
1 to 1 1/2 cups coconut milk, stock or water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Red pepper flakes, to taste (optional)
Rice, naan, or pita, for serving (optional)
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for serving (optional)

Sour cream or yogurt, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Put the oil in a pot or deep skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the curry, ginger, and garlic and cook until the onion just starts to brown, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the squash and coconut milk and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste. Bring to a boil, cover, and turn the heat down to low. Cook, stirring periodically, until the squash is just tender, about 20 minutes, checking periodically to make sure there is adequate liquid; if the squash is done and there is still a lot of liquid, remove the lid and turn the heat to medium-high until it’s thicker than stew. Add frozen peas and cook until warmed through. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve hot or warm over rice or naan with choice of garnishes.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash

For a couple of weeks, I think I ate sweet potatoes every single day. I blame Joe Yonan and his many delicious variations on sweet potato soup for starting this obsession, but the success of Thai sweet potato curry certainly didn't slow it down. In a fine conclusion to that craze, this recipe combines sweet potatoes, curry, and Joe Yonan's recipe expertise, every bite of this as delightful as its culinary predecessors.

Before this recipe, I'd always served my curries with the traditional rice or naan, or even quinoa, but it had never crossed my mind to serve it over sweet potato hash. The hash, with its lovely crispy bits, is the perfect contrast to the tender vegetables and cheese, the sweet potato eagerly soaking up the the rich coconut milk and brilliant spices of the garam masala. I love recipes like this because they perfectly toe the line between fresh and hearty, hitting your taste buds with equal parts soul and stomach satisfying starch, light and bright vegetables, and savory cheese. (As a born and bred Wisconsinite, you're not likely to find me swapping out cheese in a recipe, but if you're vegan or can't find any paneer, extra-firm tofu will make a suitable substitute.) Until Mother Nature decides she's ready to let go of winter and full embrace spring, these cozy bowls are just the ticket to a happy, healthy lady with enough energy to shovel the driveway.

Paneer and Pea Curry With Sweet Potato Hash
adapted from The Washington Post
serves 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and grated
Sea salt
8 ounces paneer (Indian fresh cheese) or drained extra-firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3-inch piece ginger root, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons garam masala (or curry powder)
2 cups fresh or frozen/defrosted peas (about 9 ounces)
1 cup no-salt-added canned crushed or diced tomatoes, with their juices
1/4 cup low-fat coconut milk or cream
Yogurt, sour cream, or creme fraiche, for serving (optional)
Hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a large skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add half of the onion and half of the garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until tender. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir in the sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Cook the sweet potatoes, stirring and scraping them from the pan occasionally, until they are browned in spots and tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

2. Sprinkle the paneer pieces with salt. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a separate large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the paneer and cook for a few minutes, until deeply browned on one side, then turn the cubes over to brown deeply on the second side.

3. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in the remaining tablespoon of oil, then stir in the ginger, garam masala and remaining half of the garlic and onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender and the garam masala has bubbled and bloomed. Stir in the peas, the tomatoes and their juices and the coconut milk. Once the mixture starts bubbling around the edges, taste, and add salt as needed. Cook until the peas are tender and the flavors have melded, about 5 minutes.

4. Divide the sweet potato hash among individual plates. Spoon the paneer-pea curry on top and garnish with yogurt and hot sauce. Serve hot.

Cheesy Greens and Rice Gratin

Having grown up in the upper Midwest, I've been around more than my fair share of casseroles. From time to time that dense and hearty fare is exactly what I'm craving, but for your average meal I'm not looking to eat something that will require a nap immediately after. But who can argue with the glorious collaboration of cheese, rice, and veggies? That's where my grown-up tastes turn to the infinitely customizable, eternally delicious, gratin.

Every kitchen should have at least one variety of grain, spice mix, sauce, nuts or seeds, greens, and cheese, so there's sure to be some iteration of this recipe in easy reach. Have leftover pasta sauce or salsa instead of tomatoes? Absolutely! Cooked quinoa or barley instead of rice? Go for it! Old Bay instead of Za'atar? Sharp cheddar or Parmesan instead of Gruyere? There's no shortage of tasty combinations so go nuts with whatever you have in the fridge and cabinets and find your favorite. My first tasting of this gratin brought together brown rice, salsa, kale, pepitas, and cheddar cheese for a Mexican/Southwestern slant on the recipe. Marinara, pine nuts, and Parmesan give this a nice Italian twist, and orzo and feta cheese could take it in a Greek direction, particularly if you tuck some olives in there as well.

Cheesy Greens and Rice Gratin
adapted from Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan
serves 1

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon Za'atar (or other favorite spice blend)
1/4 cup canned crushed tomatoes in their liquid, or 2 chopped plum tomatoes, or 1/4 to 1/2 cup prepared tomato sauce or salsa
3/4 cup cooked brown rice
2 tablespoons toasted pistachios or pine nuts
3/4 cup cooked hearty greens (spinach, kale, Swiss chard, etc.) or 2 cups chopped fresh leaves
1/4 cup shredded Taleggio or Gruyere, or other good melting cheese

1. Preheat the oven broiler, and adjust the rack to be several inches from the flame.

2. Pour the olive oil into a small cast-iron or other oven/broiler-proof skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the garlic and cook until it starts to become tender. Sprinkle in the za'atar and cook for just a few seconds, letting the spices bubble and bloom. If using fresh greens, add them now. Stir in tomatoes or sauce and rice, taste, and as salt and pepper as needed. Cook for a few minutes to let the flavors combine, then turn off the heat. Stir in the nuts or seeds.

3. Pack the rice mixture down even with a spatula and top with cooked greens (if not using fresh), leaving a ring of rice exposed. Sprinkle with the cheese. Slide the skillet under the broiler and cook until the chees is melted, bubbly, and slightly browned, 3 or 4 minutes, then remove. Let cool slightly, but eat it hot.

Curried Butternut Squash Risotto with Winter Greens

It's no secret that curry is a winter squash's best friend. Winter squash, especially butternut and pumpkin, readily adapt to both sweet and savory dishes, and curry expertly brings together spices from each of those applications. Utilizing those flavors in a risotto preparation creates an extraordinarily creamy and comforting result, the perfect antidote to the frigid winter weather. I like a little something green in my curries to contrast the hearty vegetable base, be it leafy greens or green peas, and here winter greens happily coexist with their seasonal squash counterparts. Lest it all become velvety indulgence, this risotto is topped with toasted pumpkin seeds and coconut, the ideal crunchy contrast to the pillowy bites underneath.

Curried Butternut Squash Risotto with Winter Greens
adapted from Serve Yourself by Joe Yonan

serves 1

For the squash pureé:
1 small (8 ounce) butternut or other winter squash, cut in half, seeds removed
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoons olive oil

About 2 cups low-sodium or homemade vegetable broth
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon curry powder
1 small shallot or 1 large shallot lobe, coarsely chopped (or 1/4 cup white or yellow onion and add an additional garlic clove, if desired)
1 large clove garlic, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup arborio or other risotto rice (or brown rice)
1 ounce (about 1 cup) baby spinach, kale, chard, or other greens (optional)
1 teaspoon unsalted butter or additional olive oil
2 tablespoons pistachios, cashews, or pepitas, toasted
2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut flakes, toasted

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a small roasting pan with aluminum foil.

2. Season the squash halves lightly with salt and pepper, then place them cut side up in the roasting pan. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon of the oil. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the squash is tender enough to be easily pierced with a fork. (Alternatively, microwave it on HIGH, uncovered, for 4 to 6 minutes or until tender.) Let it cool, then scoop out the flesh; the yield should be about 1/2 cup. (Alternatively, you can use 1/2 cup of prepared winter squash or pumpkin puree.)

3. Meanwhile, bring the broth to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to low and cover.

4. Heat the remaining teaspoon of oil in a heavy-bottomed small saucepan over medium heat. Add the curry powder and cook for about 1 minute, stirring to dissolve. Add the shallot and garlic; cook for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they have slightly softened. Add the rice and cook for 1 or 2 minutes, stirring until the grains are evenly coated.

5. Add 1/4 cup of the hot broth; cook the rice, stirring frequently, until the liquid is absorbed. Be sure to scrape the bottom of the pan frequently to keep the rice from sticking. Repeat with 1/4 cup amounts, allowing the broth to be absorbed before the next addition; this will take about 20 minutes. You should end up using about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cups of broth. The rice should be tender but al dente: still slightly firm to the bite inside the rice grain. (Note: If you use brown rice, the cooking time will be longer and additional broth will be required).

6. Add the roasted butternut squash and greens, if using. Cook for few minutes, until the rice is tender but not mushy and greens are wilted, adding some of the remaining broth to keep the risotto moist but not soupy.

7. When the rice is done to your liking, add the butter, stir to combine, taste and add salt as necessary. Sprinkle with the pistachios and coconut; eat while the risotto is hot.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce

Earlier this week I shared a recipe for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce, so it now it's time to share one that is a bit farther down the cooked scale. In the previous sauce the flavor profile featured the tartness, but in this sauce acidic notes are muted in favor of a deeper, earthier flavor. It doesn't go as far as Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, which is all about the roasted and smoky flavors, but nicely bridges those two extremes. Again we see chiles, cilantro, and onion making an appearance, garlic and stock fortifying the flavor even further. With that usual cast of characters, this is most certainly a pleasing preparation for any tomatillo lover, but the gentler acidic character will appeal to larger audience of non-tomatillo devotees.

Any of the suggestions I made for Fresh Green Tomatillo Sauce are just as appropriate for this variation, though I heartily endorse its use in the shredded pork chilaquiles pictured above. As I steadily make my way through my freezer cache in order to make room for my impending winter CSA, I am both delighting in the revisiting these summer flavors and sad to see them go. But when you love food and cooking as much as I do, each day has the potential for culinary adventure. Who knows? This concentrated summer flavor just may end up meeting up with hearty winter squash.

Quick-Cooked Tomatillo-Chile Sauce
makes about 2 1/2 to 3 cups
adapted from Authentic Mexican by Rick Bayless

1 pound (11 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and washed OR two 13-ounce cans tomatillos, drained
Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 2 chiles jalapenos), stemmed
5 or 6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable or canola oil
2 cups any low-sodium poultry, meat, or vegetable broth or stock (depending on how the sauce is to be used)
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth)

1. The tomatillos. Boil the fresh tomatillos and chiles in salt water to cover until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain. Simply drain the canned tomatillos.

2. The puree. Place the tomatillos and chiles (raw ones if using canned tomatillos) in a blender or food processor, along with the coriander, onion, and garlic; if using a blender, stir well. Process until smooth, but still retaining a little texture.

3. The sauce. Heat the lard or oil in a medium-large skillet set over medium-high. When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, pour it in all at once and stir constantly for 4 or 5 minutes, until darker and thicker. Add the broth, let return to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Kale Walnut Pesto

In the not too distant future, it's going to be time to completely clean out my vegetable and herb gardens. My kale plants have continued to produce generously throughout the summer, and despite a voracious appetite for kale chips, my overzealous planting left me with an abundance of kale to use up. I've made many pestos with my herb garden plenitude and other greens, but this is my first foray into one made with hearty winter greens, and while it has a character all its own, it certainly doesn't disappoint. Kale doesn't have as assertive a flavor as basil, but its earthiness is a wonderful foil for salty, savory Parmesan and rich, toasty walnuts. Traditional pesto doesn't contain any citrus, but the subtle addition of lemon really brightens the sauce and brings out more in all of the other ingredients.

I froze this pesto in 1/4 cup portions, enough  to lightly sauce one serving of pasta, so there's no excuse not to prepare a homemade meal for dinner. To use with pasta, cook pasta to just shy of al dente and drain, reserving about 1/4 cup pasta water per serving. Return the pasta to the pan, add the (thawed) pesto to the warm noodles and toss to coat, adding  pasta water a tablespoon at a time until sauce achieves desired consistency. Add a little more freshly grated Parmesan, if desired, and serve promptly.

This pesto has many uses beyond a pasta sauce, delicious on a sandwich (especially grilled cheese), as a dressing for potato salad, or with eggs. If this particular combination of greens, nuts, and cheese isn't to your liking feel, this is still a great template for experimentation. Arugula, pecans, and Pecorino Romano? Spinach, almonds, and Asiago? No matter what greens, nuts, and cheese you choose, this recipe is a culinary road map to, quite literally, awesome sauce.

Kale Walnut Pesto
makes 1 1/2 to 2 cups, enough for 6-8 servings of pasta

adapted from The Kitchn

1/2 cup chopped walnuts
8 ounces kale, trimmed, rinsed and chopped
1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the nuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and roast them in the oven until they are golden and fragrant, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Have a large bowl of cold water ready. Drop the chopped kale into the boiling water. When the water returns to a boil, swirl the kale around a few times until it becomes limp.

3. Drain the kale and plunge it into the cold water. Drain again, then place the kale on a clean dishtowel and blot away the moisture.

4. Place the nuts, kale, Parmesan, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a blender and puree until uniformly smooth. You may need to add more olive oil to reach desired consistency.

5. To refrigerate, cover with plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pesto. Will stay fresh for up to 3 days. To freeze, place desired portions in small containers with plastic directly on the surface of the pesto, or place in plastic freezer bags, and freeze for up to two months.

Leek, Potato and Spinach Stew

Remember when I said it was game on with heartier pasta? That philosophy also applies to soups and stews now that the cooler temperatures have arrived. Chili was my first foray into that territory this fall, but there's so much more to explore.

Leek and potato soup is one of my absolute favorite soups, and while it takes a lot to draw me from away from the classic recipe, this soup had too much extra going for it not to give it a shot.  While classic leek and potato soup is a wonderful side to a sandwich and salad, this stew turns that irresistible flavor into the main event. The low-fat turkey sausage adds a palate of delicious spices and richness, the beans and spinach ample heartiness, with a lovely fresh note from the generous helping of herbs. This is certainly a complete meal in a bowl, but it wouldn't be out of the question to serve it with a hunk of crusty bread to soak up all the delicious broth.

If you like to riff on recipes, as I am wont to do, I encourage you to experiment with other types of beans and hearty greens. Chickpeas and kale, perhaps? Although it's not quite as good as fresh off the stove or after a day or two in the fridge, extra portions of this soup will freeze pretty well for future meals. With my winter CSA starting next month, I can this recipe making a reappearance in my house in very short order.

Leek, Potato and Spinach Stew
adapted from Eating Well
serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 links hot or sweet Italian turkey or chicken sausage (6-7 ounces), casings removed (optional)
2 cups chopped leeks (about 2 leeks), white and light green parts only, rinsed well
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup dry white wine
1 pound new or red potatoes, halved and thinly sliced
4 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
8 ounces spinach, stemmed and chopped (about 8 cups)
1 bunch scallions, sliced
1 15-ounce can cannellini, navy, or other white beans, preferably no-salt-added, rinsed
1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as dill, chervil, chives and/or parsley

1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add sausage, if using, and leeks and cook, stirring occasionally and crumbling the sausage with a wooden spoon, until the leeks are tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and salt and stir until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add wine, cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Uncover and cook until the wine is almost evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add potatoes and broth; cover and bring to a boil. Stir in spinach and scallions and cook, covered, until the potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in beans. Cover and let stand for 1 minute. Divide among 6 soup bowls and sprinkle each portion with herbs.

Chicken, Bacon, and Parmesan Rotini with Scallions and Garlic

When I'm cooking and eating lunch or dinner by myself, my meals quite often fall into one of three broad categories - sandwiches, salads or noodles. These are typically vegetarian for health and convenience reasons, running the gamut from elaborate and complex to a good ol' PB&J. In the summer months, my noodle preferences lean towards cold veggie noodle salads, but now that autumn is settling in, it is game on with heartier pasta fare.

It doesn't take a genius to realize why this is so delicious. When you start with bacon and end with Parmesan, almost anything you throw in between is guaranteed to be delectable. This recipe might only use one slice of bacon, but not a bit of that flavor is wasted, the rendered fat used to gently cook the onions chicken, and garlic and unite all the ingredients with rich and smoky flavor. The final sharp accent of the scallion greens is the perfect contrast, making all the luxuriousness even more notable.

Not only is this particular combination delicious, but the recipe provides a nice jumping off point for cozy pasta dinners for one (or more). The basic method of cook pasta, saute proteins and vegetables, and create a pan sauce with pasta water is endlessly useful and a method every busy chef should have at their fingertips.

Chicken, Bacon, and Parmesan Rotini with Scallions and Garlic

adapted from Food and Wine

serves 1

1 ounce sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch strips

2 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast or thigh, cut into bite-size pieces
1/2 medium to large or 1 small onion, sliced thin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 scallions, white bulbs cut into 1/2-inch lengths, green tops chopped
2 cloves garlic, sliced thin
2 to 3 ounces pound whole wheat rotini, or other small pasta
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan

1. In a large deep frying pan, cook the bacon over moderate heat until crisp. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon. Put the pan over moderate heat. Add the onions and a pinch of salt. Cook onions, stirring occasionally, until the onions start to soften and become translucent, just a few minutes. Add the chicken and continue cooking until the onions are golden, 7 to 10 minutes total.

2. Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the pasta until almost done, about 9 minutes, reserving 1/2 cup pasta water. Drain the pasta and set aside. 

3. Stir in the scallion bulbs and the garlic; cook 1 to 2 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Add the pasta water and bring to a simmer. Cook until the pasta is just done, about 3 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan and season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss with the bacon and scallion greens and serve promptly.

Chunky Baba Ganoush

Perhaps I should have started with this classic for my series eggplant recipes, but this seemed like a good choice to share on Sunday, when so many of us are gathered around the TV to cheer on the Packers (or some other team, if you must) and stuffing our faces with snacks. If you're putting out a spread, it's nice to have something to balance out classic snacks like pizza and wings and accommodate any vegetarians, vegans, or healthy eaters you may have at your party (a real consideration in Madison). I ate this dip as an afternoon snack with crudites, but I'd be proud to serve it with veggies or pita chips for the game.

There's nothing too exotic about the base of this baba ganoush, which starts with the classic combination of eggplant, tahini, garlic, salt, and lemon juice and the frequent addition of fresh parsley. Where it goes a touch off the beaten path is with the addition of smoked paprika and the inclusion of the eggplant skin. Traditionally the flesh of the eggplant is scooped from the skin after roasting and the skin is discarded, but I hate the thought of throwing that nutritious, beautiful purple skin away when it only serves to give the dip more texture and flavor. (It also doesn't hurt that it's easier to just give it a rough chop and toss it all in the food processor.)

Creamy, earthy, herby, and smoky, this easy dip is is worth making whether to feed a crowd for an afternoon or just one with a week of healthy snacks.

Chunky Baba Ganoush
makes about 1 1/2 to 2 cups

1 pound eggplant (1 medium to large or multiple small eggplants)
1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed through a garlic press (to taste)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish
2 tablespoons tahini
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Smoked paprika (optional), to taste

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

2. Cut the stem and bottom ends off the eggplant and halve lengthwise. Score the flesh as deep as possible without cutting through the skin. Cut diagonal lines about an inch apart, then turn the eggplant around and repeat so you have a diamond pattern.

3. Brush the eggplant flesh with olive oil and place face-down on a baking sheet. Roast for 35-40 minutes, or until the back of the eggplant looks collapsed and puckered (this will be shorter if using multiple smaller eggplants). Allow eggplant to cool briefly, then cut into large chunks and transfer to a food processor. (Alternatively, you can scoop the flesh out with a spoon, but I prefer to keep the nutrition and texture the skin provides).

4. Add remaining ingredients to the eggplant and pulse to desired texture. Taste and season with additional salt, if desired, and garnish with additional parsley.

Lighter Eggplant Parmesan

I had a marathon of sharing zucchini recipes, so I figured I should do the same for eggplant. My cache of eggplant recipes doesn't come close to rivaling the ones I had for zucchini, but I've got a few gems to share that helped my turn my healthy eggplant crop into many delicious meals.

I have to start by saying that I did not pick this eggplant Parmesan recipe because it was lower in calories, but because it was easy. There's no doubt that deep-fried eggplant is absolutely delicious, but I do not have the patience for all that when I'm trying to dinner on the table after a long day of work. Instead of the exhaustive process of breading and frying, these eggplant slices roast while you throw together a short-cut sauce using already prepared marinara sauce. A little layering, a generous topping of mozzarella and Parmesan, and a few more minutes in the oven produce a big of pan of bubbling, cheesy goodness. The one traditional element this dish is missing is the breading, and if I made it again I would revive that with a sprinkling of buttery panko bread crumbs on top.

It's sad to see summer go, but bring on the fall foods! It can be so easy to overindulge and hibernate as the temperatures drop, but this hearty meal keeps it healthy without feeling like low-cal eating.

Lighter Eggplant Parmesan
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4

1 large or multiple smaller eggplants (2 pounds total), sliced 1/2 inch thick crosswise
1 tablespoon olive oil
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 cup fat-free (skim) milk
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed through a garlic press
1 cup homemade or best-quality store-bought marinara sauce
1/2 cup grated part-skim mozzarella
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees, with racks in upper and lower thirds. Arrange eggplant on two rimmed baking sheets. Brush eggplant on both sides with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Bake until golden brown and very tender, 20 to 25 minutes, turning slices and rotating sheets halfway through.

2. Meanwhile, make sauce: Off heat, in a medium saucepan, whisk together 1/4 cup milk, flour, and garlic. Gradually whisk in remaining 3/4 cup milk and 1/2 cup marinara sauce. Bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer, and cook until pink sauce has thickened, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Spread 1/4 cup marinara sauce in the bottom of a shallow 2-quart baking dish. Alternate layers of baked eggplant with pink sauce. Dollop with remaining 1/4 cup marinara sauce. Sprinkle with mozzarella and Parmesan. Bake on upper rack until browned and bubbling, 10 to 15 minutes.

Spicy Eggplant and Green Bean Curry

Just a few feet over from my over-producing zucchini plant are a couple of noble eggplants putting out a decent crop of their own. Eggplant is a vegetable I enjoy, though not something I've cooked with very much, and certainly not something I'd ever grown myself. Luckily for me, growing and cooking eggplant has turned out to be quite simple and delicious. As is my wont, I started with the basics, roasted eggplant which also transformed into baba ganoush, to get acquainted with my homegrown eggplant. After those basic preparations, I wanted to go with something intensely flavorful, this curry fitting the bill splendidly. I was helped along this path because I already had a jar of green curry paste in the fridge, but I don't for a second regret pairing those aromatic herbs and chilies with earthy eggplant. Additional garlic and ginger intensify those flavors, cilantro and mint add amplify the herbaceousness, and coconut milk provides the perfect creamy conduit for blending it all together. This makes for a complete Thai-inspired meal with a protein and some coconut rice, or you can go my completely untraditional route and use pieces of pita to scoop it up, topping with pieces of stir-fried tofu.

Spicy Eggplant and Green Bean Curry
adapted from Bon Appétit

serves 4

5 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil, divided
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 14- to 16-ounce eggplant, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
8 ounces green beans, trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon grated lime peel
1 to 3 teaspoons Thai green curry paste, to taste
1 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
3 green onions, chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1. Heat 4 tablespoons oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic and ginger; stir 30 seconds. Add eggplant and green beans. Cook until almost tender, stirring often, about 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer vegetables to bowl.

2. Add 1 tablespoon oil, lime peel, and curry paste to same skillet; stir 15 seconds. Add coconut milk; bring to boil, whisking until smooth. Return vegetables to skillet; toss until sauce thickens enough to coat vegetables, about 3 minutes. Season with salt. Mix in onions, cilantro, and mint.

Linguine with Scallion Sauce and Sauteed Shrimp

I hate waste. But despite all my best efforts, when I buy a bunch of scallions, some of them too often end up going to waste. Part of the generous bunches I pick up for a penance at the farmers' market linger the fridge, their greens slowly wilting to a sad, wrinkly pile destined for the compost heap. It's not that I don't like scallions, but in most of the recipes I cook that use them, scallions are an accent rather rather than the main event. This simple recipe makes scallions the star, the whites pairing with garlic and red pepper to infuse the shrimp with lively flavor and the greens pureed to a fresh sauce that unites the delicate shrimp and hearty pasta. While created as a way to use up oft-neglected vegetables, this pasta is delicious enough warrant to their specific purchase, the scallion sauce also a wonderful companion for chicken and other summer vegetables like zucchini, corn, and tomatoes. For an extra rich note, add a sprinkling of Parmesan, feta, or goat cheese certainly wouldn't be unwelcome, a final special touch to a vibrantly summer meal.

Linguine with Scallion Sauce and Sauteed Shrimp

adapted from Gourmet

serves 4

3/4 pound scallions (about 3 large bunches)
8 garlic cloves

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound medium shrimp (about 24)
12 pound dried whole wheat spaghetti or linguine
6 to 7 tablespoons olive oil

1. Cut enough of scallion greens into 2-inch pieces to measure 3 cups and finely chop white parts. Mince garlic. Shell and devein shrimp.

2. Fill a 6-quart pasta pot three fourths full with salted water and bring to a boil for scallion greens and pasta.

3. In a deep 12-inch heavy skillet cook finely chopped scallions in 2 tablespoons oil over moderately low heat, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a blender and wipe skillet clean.

4. Blanch scallion greens in boiling water 30 seconds and with a slotted spoon transfer to blender. Transfer 1/4 cup scallion water to blender and reserve water remaining in pot over low heat, covered. Blend scallion mixture with 2 tablespoons oil until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Season sauce with salt and pepper.

5. In skillet heat 2 tablespoons oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and sauté half of shrimp, turning them, until golden brown on both sides and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Transfer shrimp to a plate and keep warm, covered. Sauté remaining shrimp in same manner, adding remaining tablespoon oil if necessary, and keep warm in skillet, covered.

6. Return water in pot to a boil. Cook pasta in boiling water, stirring occasionally, until al dente and ladle out and reserve 1 cup pasta water. Drain pasta in a colander and add pasta and shrimp to skillet with sauce and 1/4 cup reserved pasta water. Heat mixture over low heat, gently tossing (and adding more pasta water as needed if mixture becomes dry), until just heated through.

Zucchini Soup with Garlic and Basil

The zucchini keeps coming and thus so too do the recipes. Much to my own surprise, despite the fact I've eaten zucchini in some capacity every day for a couple of weeks, I'm still not sick of it. To my credit, I've made a real effort to mix up my preparations, from fritters to cookies to pastas to salads to sandwiches to chips and everything in between. For all the recipe ideas my coworkers and I have discussed, I got a few quizzical looks when I said I was going to make zucchini soup. But what better kind of recipe to make when you need to use up a lot of one vegetable? Were it just your basic butter + onions + broth + salt and pepper recipe, this soup would be pleasant and fresh, though not terribly interesting, but the generous amounts of basil and garlic make this soup profoundly flavorful. This recipe is a perfect for using up those zucchini too large for grilling or sauteeing when you've tested the limits of your love or zucchini bread (or have a bounty in the herb garden as well). Happily frozen for later use, this will store the bounty of summer in your freezer (perhaps next to some zucchini bread?) until the depths of winter when you'll have exhausted your love of root vegetables. Simple, flavorful, freezable, and easily multipliable, this recipe will easily turn mountains of summer squash into days of dinners, either for the dog days of summer or the depths of winter.

Zucchini Soup with Garlic and Basil
adapted from The Kitchn/Gourmet
makes about 1 1/2 quarts

4 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
1 white onion, sliced
8 to 9 large cloves garlic, sliced thinly
1 1/2 pounds zucchini, about 4 medium
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth or water

1/3 cup packed basil leaves
Salt and pepper

1. Melt the butter (or heat in the oil) in a heavy 4-quart pot over medium heat. When it foams, add the sliced garlic and onions and cook on medium-low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the onion is soft and translucent. Keep the heat low enough that the garlic doesn't brown; you want everything to sweat.

2. When the onions are soft, add the zucchini and cook until soft. Add the broth and bring to a simmer. Simmer at a low heat for about 45 minutes.

3. Let cool slightly, add basil, then blend with an immersion blender until creamy, or transfer to a standing blender to puree. Be very careful if you use the latter; only fill the blender half full with each batch, and hold the lid down tightly with a towel.

4. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Like most soups, this is significantly better after a night in the refrigerator to let the flavors meld.

Simple Zucchini Fritters

There's no doubt that it's zucchini season. The farmers' market is full of it and my coworkers and I can't stop talking about ways to use up the bounty growing in our gardens. For most people I know their first thought is zucchini bread, but for me it's grilled zucchini and zucchini fritters. I'm most certainly not anti-sweets, but when a vegetable first comes into season, I like to start with recipes that feature it, not hide it. So let's start with the basics. A fritter is a very simple thing - filling mixed with batter and fried. Delicious, right? I'm never one to turn down a deep-fried fritter at a restaurant or food cart, but when it comes to cooking at home, I'm generally a pan-frying kind of girl. It's easier and healthier and doesn't require me to plan the order of cooking things in the Fry Baby so I don't end up making donuts tasting like fish sticks. And if I'm going to make a batter, why not make it whole grain? Regular whole wheat flour can weigh recipes down, but airy whole wheat pastry flour buoys them up. Though not a flavorful powerhouse on its own, zucchini is delicious conduit and it only take a simple seasoning of salt, pepper, garlic, and fresh herbs to make this ordinary vegetable delectable.

While I started very simple, I already see myriad opportunities for customization. Trying swapping out half of the zucchini for carrots (or other veggies), experiment with different mixes of herbs, and throw in additional spices and citrus zest and juice. These fritters can fit in with any meal - alongside fried eggs for breakfast, with a salad for lunch, or next to a hearty piece of meat for dinner. If you find yourself with an overzealous farmers' market haul or overproducing plant in the garden, this recipes will help you use up that surplus at any and every meal.

Simple Zucchini Fritters

serves 1 to 2

1/2 pound (about 1 medium) zucchini
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus additional
1 egg, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs (parsley, basil, chives, cilantro, dill, etc.)
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and minced or pressed through a garlic press

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup whole wheat pastry or all-purpose flour
Olive or canola oil or cooking spray

1. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate zucchini into a medium bowl. Add the salt and stir thoroughly to coat. Transfer zucchini to a colander and allow to drain for at least 15 minutes. Squeeze excess moisture from zucchini and return to bowl.

2. Add egg, herbs, and garlic to zucchini, season with salt and pepper, and mix together thoroughly. Add flour and stir to combine. Preheat a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat and coat with a thin layer of oil. Add zucchini mixture to pan, about 1/4 cup a time, making sure not to crowd the fritters.

3. Cook fritters until golden, about 3 to 4 minutes. Lower heat to medium. Turn fritters, and continue cooking until golden, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer fritters to a plate; set aside in a warm place. Repeat with any remaining zucchini mixture, if needed, adding additional oil if necessary.

Sesame Beef and Asparagus Stir-Fry

After sharing Asparagus and Leek Soup earlier this week, I thought it would be seasonally prudent to share this recipe before its time too had passed. I've eaten beef and broccoli more times than I can count, but I think it's a shame how little asparagus shows up in Asian coking because it works well with so many of the staple flavors. This recipe is quick and simple, elevating a few no-brainer combinations (steak and asparagus, garlic and asparagus) with a few touches of Asian flair (teriyaki and sesame). The toasty sesame, sweet teriyaki, and pungent garlic are the perfect highlights to fresh asparagus and hearty steak, each subtle element in balance with all the others. While I find the asparagus and steak combination particularly delicious, chicken, shrimp, pork, or tofu could also be substituted, and broccoli or snap peas would work beautifully in place of the asparagus. A beautifully composed recipe as written, this easy recipe is also a great template for culinary experimentation, well-worth filing away for the next time you're at a loss for what to make for dinner or simply need to clean out the fridge.

Sesame Beef and Asparagus Stir-Fry
adapted from Bon Appetit
serves 2

1 1/2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
8 ounces flank steak, thinly sliced across grain
2 tablespoons canola oil
3/4 cup sliced red onion
8 ounces slender asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
2 large or 4 small cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/3 cup water
2 tablespoons hoisin or teriyaki sauce
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
Sriracha or other hot sauce, for serving (optional)

1. Spread sesame seeds on large plate. Sprinkle beef with salt and pepper; coat with sesame seeds.

2. Heat canola oil in heavy large skillet over high heat. Add onion; stir-fry 1 minute. Add asparagus; stir-fry until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add beef and garlic; stir-fry until brown, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium. Add 1/3 cup water and hoisin sauce. Cook until sauce is bubbling and coats beef and vegetables, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Stir in sesame oil. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with hot sauce, if desired.