Ramp and Potato Soup

Ramps are one of my favorite vegetables. These wild leeks have an all-too-fleeting season, their special hybrid garlic-onion flavor one of the most unique tastes of spring. While asparagus is a well-known and lauded harbinger of spring, these delightful veggies really lead the way for the season. Their first appearance at the farmers' market fills me with great joy and I can't resist buying them every week they are there. Ramps are inherently so flavorful that they never need more than a simple preparation to create an intensely delicious dish. I've used ramps to make soups, pastas, pizza, risotto, and frittatas in the past, but this time my first thought was a riff on the classic leek and potato soup. Leek and potato soup is already a stunningly flavorful dish for such humble ingredients and swapping in ramps brings the taste to an even more exceptional heights. A perfect blend of the heartiness and freshness, this simple combination of ingredients is the purest taste of early spring and an exceptional way to embrace the season.

Ramp and Potato Soup
adapted from Food Network
serves 4

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 pound fresh ramps, cleaned and cut into 2-inch pieces
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf 

4 cloves of garlic, minced

1 quart chicken or vegetable stock 

1 pound new or red potatoes, quartered
2 tablespoons heavy cream or half-and-half, (optional)

1. Melt the butter in a stock pot over medium-high heat. Add the ramps and season with salt and black pepper. Saute until the ramps are wilted and soft, about 6 minutes. Add the bay leaf and garlic, stirring for 2 minutes. Add the stock and potatoes and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are very soft and the mixture is thick and creamy, about 1 hour.

2. Remove the soup from the heat. Discard the bay leaf. Coarsely mash potatoes with a potato masher or blend with an immersion blender. Slowly add the cream, if using, and stir to blend. Reseason the soup.

Ramp and Barley Soup

This is my absolute last ramp recipe of the year. I was working with the scrappy ends of what was available, so much so that they didn't even come with the greens, but this simple soup was delicious nonetheless. It may need some time on the stove, but it's almost nearly unattended so you can get the rest of dinner ready while the barley cooks. Like nearly all ramp recipes, the unique flavor of ramps makes this soup particularly special, but this would also be great with leeks, spring onions, or even green garlic. Often-overlooked barley is delicious is so much more than mushroom barley soup, it's nutty flavor and chewy texture in perfect harmony with the ramps and celery.

I've been really happy with the number of new ramp recipes I had an opportunity to try this year, but the time has come to move on to a new culinary obsession. With the unofficial start of summer just around the corner, I'm excited to embark on some culinary adventures with the best produce the farmers' market has to offer.


Ramp and Barley Soup
adapted from Martha Stewart
serves 4

4 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup hulled barley, rinsed
1/2 pound ramps, whites and greens separated and sliced
1 stalk celery, thinly sliced
Coarse salt and ground black pepper

1. In a medium saucepan, bring stock, 3 cups water, barley, ramp whites, and celery to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until barley is tender, about 45 minutes.

2. Stir in ramp greens. Transfer half of soup to a blender and puree until smooth. Return to pot, stir to combine, and season with salt and pepper.

Spaghetti with Ramps

Yes, another ramp recipe. Sadly, ramp season is virtually over and I have just a couple more recipes to share before they're completely unavailable. I hate to go against the wisdom of Mario Batali, but I had to adapt his recipe to accommodate my deep love of ramps. Half a pound of ramps to a whole pound of spaghetti is a decidedly unsatisfying ratio for me, so I cut back on the pasta and increased the amount ramps to savor their delicious flavor in every bite. Since even my good olive oil probably doesn't compare to what Mario Batali has in his kitchen, I cut back on the olive oil and added a bit of butter, although if you've got some really extraordinary olive oil I encourage you to use it here unadulterated. The simple combination of nutty whole wheat spaghetti, rich butter and olive oil, spicy chili flakes, and savory cheese is the perfect canvas to allow the unique taste of ramps to shine.

With my favorite ingredients the simplest recipes are often the best, and this recipe follows that formula. Although there isn't anything out there than can quite compare to ramps in my mind, leeks, spring onions, or green garlic can often be substituted with great success. Use this recipe to indulge in some of spring's best produce before summer arrives and put a delicious, healthy meal on your dinner table in short order.

Spaghetti with Ramps

adapted from Babbo

serves 4

12 ounces dry whole wheat spaghetti
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 pound fresh ramps, greens and root ends separated and thinly sliced
1-2 tablespoons red chili flakes
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons breadcrumbs
Parmesan cheese, for serving (optional)

1. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons of salt. Add the spaghetti to the pot and cook according to the package direction, until tender but still al dente, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking water.

2. Heat olive oil and butter in a 12-14 inch sauté pan over medium high heat. Add root ends of ramps to the pan and sauté until tender. Add salt and chilli flakes. At the very end, add the greens and sauté until wilted. Drain pasta and add it to the sauté pan. Toss gently to coat the pasta with the sauce, adding pasta water if necessary to help coat the pasta.

3. Divide pasta evenly among four warmed plates. Drizzle additional olive oil over top and sprinkle with breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese, if desired.

Ramp and Sausage Risotto

I can't get enough ramps. From the time these delectable wild leeks appear at the farmers' market until they all-too-quickly disappear, I don't miss an opportunity to pick up a bunch. And although there isn't anything I've made with ramps I haven't scarfed down with great relish, this is far and beyond the best ramp dish I've made (and perhaps one of my favorite things I've ever cooked). I love each of these sumptuous ingredients on their own, but the magical combination of Italian sausage, Parmesan cheese, and ramps is enough to make an unconscious smile appear on your face with very bite. Risotto is often though of as only a rich, indulgent dish with no nutritional value, but if you're willing to invest some extra time (and broth), this dish can be made with brown rice instead of white. The brown rice not only adds whole grains to this meal but a wonderful nutty flavor that plays beautifully with all the luxurious, savory ingredients. If you have the opportunity to make only one ramp recipe, I can't offer up a better choice than this one. The perfect date night dish, all this needs to be a complete romantic meal is a salad, glass of wine, and your sweetheart.

Ramp and Sausage Risotto
adapted from Bon Appetit
serves 4

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
1/2 pound hot or sweet Italian sausages, casings removed
12 ramps, trimmed; bulbs and slender stems sliced, green tops thinly sliced
1 cup arborio rice (or brown rice if you have extra time)
1/2 cup dry vermouth
3 cups (or more) low-salt chicken or vegetable broth
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for passing

1. Melt butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add sausage. Cook until no longer pink, breaking up with spoon, about 5 minutes. Add sliced ramp bulbs and stems. Saute until almost tender, about 2 minutes. Add rice and stir 1 minute. Add vermouth. Simmer until liquid is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add 3 cups chicken broth, 1 cup at a time, simmering until almost absorbed before next addition and stirring often.

2. Continue cooking until rice is just tender and risotto is creamy, adding more broth if dry and stirring often, about 18 minutes. Mix in green tops and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese. Season risotto to taste with salt and pepper. Serve, passing additional grated cheese separately.

Ramp and Asparagus Frittata

There are few ingredients that say spring more to me than asparagus and ramps. Both of these ingredients always make it home with me any time they are available at the farmers' market. And while I could eat grilled asparagus by the pound and put ramp pesto on almost everything, I'm still always on the search for other recipes for two of my favorite spring ingredients. Most people aren't familiar with ramps (wild leeks), making the recipe pool is somewhat limited, so I was thrilled to find a recipe that used both of these delicious vegetables. While I typically don't ever work from recipes when making frittatas, this wonderful collection of ingredients is definitely worth sharing. It's eggy and cheesy and packed with veggies, the perfect balance between health and indulgence. And although I adapted this recipe to use ramps, if you aren't lucky enough to have myriad sources for them as I do, leeks will still shine gloriously in this recipe. Delicious puffy and golden brown hot from the oven for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner or reheated the next day, the economical and flavorful dish deserves a spot at your dinner table.

Ramp and Asparagus Frittata
adapted from Bon Appetit
serves 4

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
1 cup chopped ramps (white and red parts only-no leafy greens)
1 12-ounce bunch thin asparagus, trimmed, cut on diagonal into 1-inch pieces (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 cup sliced stemmed mushrooms (shiitakes, baby bellas, or portabellas make good choices)
8 large eggs
1 cup shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese, divided
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat broiler. Melt butter in heavy broilerproof 10-inch-diameter nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add leeks and sauté 4 minutes. Add asparagus and shiitake mushrooms, sprinkle lightly with salt, and sauté until tender, about 6 minutes. Whisk eggs, 3/4 cup Fontina cheese, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in medium bowl. Add egg mixture to skillet; fold gently to combine. Cook until almost set.

2. Sprinkle remaining 1/4 cup Fontina cheese and Parmesan cheese over. Broil until frittata is puffed and cheese begins to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve.

Mushroom Pizza with Ramp Pesto

Ramps are one of the culinary delicacies of spring, and I've tried to make the most of this fleeting wild vegetable this year. Recipes for ramps are certainly not as numerous as many other vegetables and I've mostly made pasta dishes using ramps, since that is the most plentiful category of recipes. For what may be my final ramp dish of the year, I adapted a pesto recipe from Bon Appetit for this decadent pizza, although it would also be spectacular on pasta or a panini. The fresh, green flavor of the ramps works perfectly with hearty, earthy mushrooms and rich and salty cheese, all of which I found at my local farmer's market. Although pizza is often a kid-friendly food, this is a quite strongly flavored pesto, and probably not suitable for the pint-size set, or anyone who likes their food mildly-flavored. But for all of you with an adventurous palate, I strongly recommend whipping up a batch of this supremely savory pesto before ramps completely disappear for the season for this unique pizza.

Mushroom Pizza with Ramp Pesto

serves 4

1/2 cup olive oil, divided  
2/3 cup thinly sliced trimmed ramp bulbs and slender stems plus 3 cups thinly sliced green tops (from about 8 ounces ramps)  
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese  
1/3 cup toasted almonds   
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
12-inch whole wheat pizza crust
8 ounces sliced mushrooms (I like shiitake or cremini)
1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

 1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 2/3 cup ramp bulbs and stems to skillet and sauté just until soft but not browned, reducing heat if necessary to prevent browning, about 5 minutes. Transfer sautéed ramps to processor. Add green tops, cheese, and almonds to processor; process until finely chopped. With machine running, gradually add remaining oil and puree until almost smooth. Transfer pesto to bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.  

2. Meanwhile, preheat an oven to 450 degrees. Spread 3/4 to 1 cup of the ramp pesto even over the pizza crust, reserving the rest for later use (you'll have about 1 1/2 cups total). Spread mushrooms evenly over crust and top with mozzarella cheese.

3. Bake until cheese is melted and just starting to brown 8 to 12 minutes. Let stand for a couple of minutes, then slices and serve hot.

Fettuccine with Ramps

I am absolutely in love with ramps lately. I'd never had them until this year, but when I saw a vegetable I'd heard of but never had before at the farmer's market, I absolutely had to buy some. Ramps have all the best qualities of onions and garlic and almost pack more flavor than any vegetable has a right to. Ramps definitely aren't a widely known or used vegetable, so there are sadly very few recipes to look through on my favorite websites. Luckily for me, my first foray into cooking with ramps, Ramp Soup, and this recipe are absolutely amazing! I'm not sure if ramps can just do no wrong, I've really lucked out with the recipes I've found, or some combination of the two, but I just can't get enough of these foraged veggies. Because this recipe is so simple, using good olive oil and cheese is critical to making the most of this dish, so use the good stuff here if you've got it. Seize the opportunity to try ramps if you haven't or savor them again if you have, and enjoy this bowl of bright spring flavor.

Fettuccine with Ramps
adapted from Gourmet, via Epicurious
serves 4

1/2 pound ramps
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
12 oz. whole wheat fettuccine
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan

1. Trim roots from ramps and slip off outer skin on bulbs if loose. Blanch ramps in a 6-quart pot of boiling salted water, 2 to 3 seconds, and transfer to a cutting board with tongs. Coarsely chop ramps and put in a blender with zest and oil.

2. Add spaghetti to boiling water and cook a few minutes, then ladle out 1/2 cup pasta water and add to blender. Purée ramps until smooth and season with salt. Continue to cook spaghetti until al dente, then ladle out about 1 cup additional pasta water before draining spaghetti in a colander. Return pasta to pot with ramp purée and toss with parmesan over moderate heat 1 to 2 minutes, thinning sauce with a little pasta water as needed to coat pasta, if desired.

Ramp Soup

The outdoor farmer's market made its triumphant return to Capitol Square this past weekend, and I couldn't be more pleased to have my favorite grocery store back. It may not be quite back to the bounty of summer, but the scope has definitely expanded from it's winter incarnation at the Madison Senior Center, only a couple of blocks away.

Spring has started primarily with a bounty of delicious greens, but I was also able to pick up some shiitake mushrooms, hothouse cucumbers and tomatoes, and a few bunches of ramps. Never heard of ramps? They're also commonly known as spring onions, wild leeks, or wild garlic, with a pungent flavor somewhere between garlic and onions, and are gathered in the wild from South Carolina clear up to Canada. Possessing wonderful characteristics of both leeks/onions and garlic, this wild vegetable is an underutilized flavor bomb and a great way to mix up your spring menu with a new ingredient. The addition of butter and Parmesan cheese adds just enough richness to give this soup some body; the Parmesan flavor comes through clearly in this simple soup, so use a quality cheese. Pair it with a side salad and roll or sandwich for a not-too-heavy lunch or dinner rich in the fresh flavors of spring. The flavor intensifies a bit as the soup sits overnight, making for a delightful lunch the next day if you have any leftovers.

Ramp Soup
from Gourmet, via Epicurious
serves 4

1 pound ramps
1/2 sweet onion such as Vidalia or Walla Walla, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/3 cup dry white wine
3 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1. Trim roots from ramps and slip off outer skin on bupounds if loose. Cut green tops from ramps and coarsely chop enough greens to measure 3 cups (reserve remainder for another use). Thinly slice ramp bulbs, including pink stems.

2. Cook ramp bulbs, onion, white pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add wine, then boil over high heat, stirring occasionally, until evaporated completely. Add broth and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until onions and ramps are very soft, about 20 minutes. Stir in ramp greens and boil 1 minute.

3. Working in batches, purée soup in a blender until very smooth, about 1 minute per batch (use caution when blending hot liquids), then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large heatproof bowl, pressing hard on and then discarding solids. Return soup to cleaned pot and bring just to a boil. Whisk in cheese and butter until smooth. Season with salt.