Xmas Tree Tutorial

Can it really only be 6 days to Xmas!?! 

For those of you, like me, who'll be crafting up to the last minute, I thought I'd share a super quick and simple ornament tutorial for you to whip up as last minute gifts or to adorn your tree.

Before we begin, here's a little breakdown of the basic stitches. I'm using US crochet terms, because I always do.

sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.

sc [single crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (this is the same as UK dc stitch)

dc [double crochet] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (this is the same as UK tre stitch)

I am using 8ply cotton and a 3mm hook for this tree to keep it a nice compact sized star, but you could use and yarn and hook that you like, or have on hand.

Okay, gather your supplies! - you will need 3 contrasting shades of 8ply cotton yarn, 3mm hook, darning needle, scissors, a firm piece of cardboard, star shaped button, cotton drill tape for tag, embroidery thread, and string for hanging. 

You will be making 2 crochet trees and joining them together.

 

To start, using shade 1 and leaving a tail of approx 25cm make a magic loop (great tutorial here). 

Row 1 - Chain 3 (this is your turning ch) and work 6dc into the magic loop as pictured below. 

Pull the magic loop up tight before you begin Row 2 like so...

 

Row 2 - Ch3 (turning ch) and turn your work. 

dc into top of the last dc from the previous Row and into each of the next 2 dc. 

Now, 5dc into the next dc and 1dc into each of the next 2 dc.

2dc into the 3rd chain of the ch3 (turning ch) from the first Row. 

It should be looking like the picture below, right?

 

Row 3 - Ch3 and turn your work. 

dc into top of the last dc from the previous Row and into each of the next 5 dc. 

Now, 5dc into the next dc and 1dc into each of the next 5 dc.

2dc into the 3rd chain of the turning ch from the previous Row. 

 

Row 4 - Ch3 and turn your work. 

dc into top of the last dc from the previous Row and into each of the next 8 dc. 

Now, 5dc into the next dc and 1dc into each of the next 8 dc.

2dc into the 3rd chain of the turning ch from the previous Row. Fasten off.

This is the first colour section of your tree complete, we now need to add the trunk.

 

Using the 25cm tail that you left at the start slip stitch across 2 stitches at the base of your tree and ch3 like so.

 

Turn your work and work 3 dc evenly along the bottom of your tree to create a trunk and fasted off, as pictured.

 

Now make another tree exactly the same. 

 

Row 5 - Using another shade of yarn and working into the back of your work, slip stitch into the 7th dc from the egde and ch3. 

1dc into the same dc and into each of the next 5 dc.

Now, 5dc into the next dc and 1dc into each of the next 5 dc.

2dc into the next dc and fasten off.  

 

Row 5 - changing shades and working into the back of your work again, slip stitch into the 5th dc from the egde and ch3. 

1dc into the same dc and into each of the next 4 dc.

Now, 5dc into the next dc and 1dc into each of the next  dc.

2dc into the next dc and fasten off.  

Repeat row 4 and 5 for both trees but DO NOT fasten off on the 2nd trees final shade like so - you will be using this yarn to join and edge your tree to finish it off.

 

Using your cardboard, cut out an insert to wedge between your 2 trees, this is to keep your ornament flat and stiff for hanging.

 

Now, time to join your trees together.

With the right sides of both trees facing, and the tree with the yarn still attached at the back, work 1sc into each stitch along the top of both trees to join them together as pictured below.

 

Now work 2sc into the 1 corner stitch and 2 sc down the edge of the trees.

When you get to your loose ends simply tuck them to the inside of your tree and continue to crochet around your tree - this saves having to sew all of those ends in later on.

 

Continue working sc around the outside of your trees as pictured,

 

tucking in all of your ends as you go and working 2sc into each corner.

 

 

 

When you get to the base of the trunk you will need to insert your cardboard cut out.

 

Then continue working sc around the remainder of your trees.

 

Finishing with a slip stitch into the base of the 1st sc. Fasten off.

 

Thread in your 1 end, sew on a button and attach a loop for hanging. I like to personalize my tree's with a little stitching of the year but you could stitch anything you like, a name, picture, date, etc - or skip this tag altogether, it's totally up to you.

These trees would be great made on mass and hung in a garland. They'd also make great gift tags or why not try making just 1 tree in a chunky cotton for a cute Xmas washer or coaster.

Merry Xmas - Enjoy!

Tapestry Crochet Washer Tutorial!!

About a month back I stumbled across a crochet technique called 'tapestry crochet'. I didn't know much about it so I searched and I searched and I searched - looking for as much info as I could. There were a few YouTube videos and an american website offering some handy info but it all seemed rather complex too me. I persevered, practised my little heart out, and eventually I cracked it. To be honest - I always think crochet patterns look and sound far too complex, more than they actually need to be. So, I've put together a tutorial for a simple 'Tapestry Crochet Washer'. 

What I've done here is written my own pattern. I have to be clear about this for obvious copyright reasons - I have not copied this pattern from anywhere. It has been designed by my 7yr old daughter on graph paper (link here) and interpreted into the following tutorial by me.

O.K... Now that the technicalities are out of the way lets get started... :)

 

Grab yourself some supplies... I like to use worsted weight cotton for my washers and for this project I'm using Cascade Sierra (80% cotton 20% wool blend). Pick 2 shades that pop together, I've chosen Tangerine(orange) and Mulberry(purple)! You'll need a 5mm hook, a lead pencil, a print out of graph paper (link here), a darning needle and a button.

 

Let's sketch out a design.

When you crochet flat, turning your work for each row, you'll notice that ridges form in your work. To eliminate this I'll be working my washer back and forth - which means, when I get to the end of the first row (and all odd rows) I'll be swapping hands and working back across my work for the 2nd row (and all even rows) with my left hand. All this is done WITHOUT TURNING my work. This is a little tricky at first but after a few rows it gets easier and you won't feel like your crocheting with your thumbs - I promise... 

So, you've got your graph paper and a lead pencil, I also like to have an eraser handy because I'm bound to make a mistake. First work out how big you'd like your washer. I've found that 28 stitches makes a decent sized washer by the time you add a border - approx 7 inch square. 

Mark a line on your graph paper showing 28 stitches so you can visualise the area you have to create your design. You'll notice that with this graph paper each row is slightly angled - when you crochet your stitches will sit at an angle, this graph paper has been designed with this in mind. If you were to draw your design onto regular graph paper it would turn our slightly different. I have tried using both kinds of graph paper, regular and the one pictured below, and have found that my designs seem clearer when I use this paper (link here)...

I've copied the SPOT pattern that my 7yr old designed for you to use for this tutorial - now it's your turn to copy it onto your own graph paper (link here).

You'll be working your pattern from the bottom up. The first row on the graph paper is worked left to right (you can tell this by the way the stitches are angled). I want my pattern to start on a row that works from right to left so I've started my drawing on the 2nd row... 

Note : : I will be working 2 rows of single crochet before I start working my pattern. There is only 1 row pictured before the pattern starts - let's pretend it's actually 2!  

 

I'm going to use orange for the main colour and purple for the spots... 

Lets get started!!! I like to use American Crochet Terms and this washer will be worked entirely in single crochet (sc). With your main colour and 5mm hook chain(ch) 29.

 

Row 1 - Into the 2nd ch from the hook you will be working 1 sc. Make sure that when you insert your hook into the chain that you are going under 2 strands of yarn like so.

 

When your first sc is complete it should look something like this. See how there's only 1 strand of yarn at the bottom the the sc? Great! Let's keep going...  

 

Now you're going to sc into each chain across. You should have 28 single crochet at the end of this row - Row 1 completed.

 

Row 2 - Take your hook out and insert it into the stitch from the opposite direction like so. You are now going to work row 2 from left to right, without turning your work, with your left hand.

 

Chain 1 and sc into the top of the last sc worked in Row 1.

 

You now have something that looks like this... 

 

Work 1 sc in each stitch across, with your left hand, and when you get to the end change your hook around to work the next row as normal, from right to left. 

Note : : in the next row we will be introducing our pattern!!

 

Row 3 - ch1 and sc into the last sc from Row 2. You now need to look at your graph paper and the pattern you copied down. You are up to Row 3 (2nd row from the bottom because we added an imaginary row, remember) and it is worked from right to left so read the pattern that way too... 

 

The pattern has 3 sc in the main colour and then changes to purple. Work 2 sc as normal but when you get to the 3rd sc you will need to finish it off by changing colours to set yourself up for the next sc (which is a purple one)...

To change colours simply tie the purple yarn to the orange yarn - pictured below.

 

Then pull it up nice and close to the back of your work like so...

 

Now finish the 3rd orange sc by yarning over with the purple yarn and drawing through the 2 orange loops on your hook like so... You will now have 3 completed orange sc's and your new colour (purple) will be ready, waiting for you on your hook..

 

Here's a picture of it from the back. See the know sitting nice and snug up there near the stitch? Perfect!

 

Next up we are going to work the 4 purple sc's for the first row of the pattern. You will be carrying your orange yarn along with you as you go, sandwiching it between the stitches of each sc worked in purple... To do this simply run the orange yarn along the top of the sc's from the previous row while you work the next 4 sc's (in purple).

 

Remember to yarn over and draw through with the orange yarn on the last sc in purple to change colour. After working your first lot of purple you should have something that looks like this. 

 

Continue on in this way for the remainder of this row, changing yarns as indicated on your pattern and making sure that you yarn over and draw up the next colour yarn on the first and last stitch of every colour change. All the while sandwiching the unused yarn between the working yarn sc's.

Hopefully your washer will look something like this after row 3.

 

Row 4 - Now it's time to work back with your left hand. Following my pattern I need to work 2 sc in my main colour and then change to purple. So, continue sandwiching that purple yarn between your stitches and ch 1 and sc in the last 2 sc from Row 3 (remember to yo and draw up the purple yarn on the 2nd sc to change colour). Now work 5sc's in purple.

 

Sometimes on the rows I use my left hand to do I find that the yarn I'm sandwiching between the sc's gets a little loose.

 

Simply give it a slight pull before changing back to that colour to eliminate this problem. 

 

Work the remainder of this row and you should have something that looks like this - right??!!

 

Continue working back and forth, left to right, sandwiching that unused yarn between your sc's as you go, and changing colours by yarning over and drawing up a loop at the start and end of every colour change.

Here's a progress picture after the first group of spots have been completed... Can you see how when I work from right to left my stitches lean to the left and when I work from left to right they lean to the right?? That's why I like to use this graph paper (link here)! It has been designed with this in mind!!

 

Now that you've kinda got the idea let's keep going! 

I worked 25 rows before starting a border and it looked like this. 

 

When you finish working the last row of your spot pattern you can cut your purple yarn and work the last 2 rows with just the orange yarn.

Now for the border - the easy part... Ch 1 and sc in the same space as your last sc from your last row. You will now sc in every row down the side of your washer starting here.

 

You want to make sure you insert your hook through 2 strands of yarn when working sc's down the edges - I just think it makes the finished washer look neater... Sc all the way down this edge.

 

You now need to sc along the bottom of your washer. To make a corner work 3 sc into the first ch loop.

 

Like so... 

Now sc in each ch loop across. Work 3 sc into the last ch loop for the next corner then sc in each row up the other side.

When you get back up to the top again, work 3 sc into the first sc and 1 sc in each sc across until you get to the last sc. Work 2 sc into the last sc.

 

Like so....

 

Now ch 1 and join with a slip stitch to your very first border sc...

 

And here you have it 1 almost finished washer!!! YIPPEE!!!

Next, I like to add a tab and a button. To make a tab simply ch 3 and sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and the next ch too. 2 sc in total. 

Next Row - ch 1, sc in next 2 stitches. Repeat this row a total of 8 times and fasten off.

 

Sew your tab and button to the top corner of your washer and your all done...

WOW - that was long winded... I hope you made it all the way to the end but most importantly I hope it all made sense and you're sitting there with 1 completed washer. If you're unsure about any of the steps in this tutorial PLEASE comment below and I'll do my darnedest to sort it out for you. Or, if you've taken the time to work through this tutorial, and it all made sense, I'd love to hear from you too...

*** Happy Hooking ***