Roman Cities in Morocco: Lixus

It's off the beaten tourist track, with a makeshift entrance and little infrastructure. But the ancient Roman city of Lixus, near the northern Moroccan seaport of Larache, is well worth a visit. Suzanna Clarke reports for The View from Fez

On a day trip from Assilah in northern Morocco, we made our way to Lixus, 35 kilometres away. I had visions of ticket collections and the usual posse of guides hanging around the entrance, as they do at that other well-known Roman site, Volubilis. Perhaps even a small cafe?

However, Lixus is a site in waiting. The entrance is a "provisional" one, and isn't easy to find, and there is no ticket collection or other infrastructure. Once a thriving city stretching over 75 hectares, nowadays the entrance to Lixus is a gap through an unfinished wall, and a planned visitor centre looks impressive, but work on it ceased prior to completion, more than two years ago.

The remains of the fish processing area, where the fish paste "garum" was made

We were the only visitors to Lixus that morning, and a cheerful security guard offered to show us around. His grandfather had been a guardian of the site, as had his father, he told us.

First stop on the tour were the remains of more than 150 pools and the processing areas used for a fish factory, which used to make "garum", a strong fish paste. Fish were laid out and covered with salt in order to make the paste, which was then shipped to other parts of the Roman Empire.

We turned and began to wind up the hill, following an ancient roadway. Settled by that sea-faring culture, the Phoenicians, in the 7th century BC, Lixus was later annexed by Carthage - and became one of a string of Phoenician/Carthaginian settlements along the Atlantic coast, which included Chellah (now in modern Rabat, and then called Sala Colonia by the Romans) and Mogador (now Essaouira). Further inland was the better known city of Volubilis. When Carthage fell to Ancient Rome, Lixus, Chellah, Mogador and Volubilis became imperial outposts of the Roman province Mauretania Tingitana. It flourished during the reign of Emperor Claudius 1, from AD 41 - 54.

The Roman amphitheatre

Only an estimated 20% of Lixus has been excavated, so it's possible a wealth of ancient mosaics and other significant artefacts lie beneath. Active excavation did take place between 1948 and 1969. Then, after an international conference in 1989, which many scientists, historians and archaeologists participated, the site was partly enclosed in order to undertake a study of the mosaics. One of these represented Poseidon – the Greek god of the sea, horses and earthquakes. The mosaics and even a mask of Hercules, found in a temple, have been moved to museums in Rabat and Tetouan. In 1995, Lixus was put on the World Heritage register.

As we rounded the hill, to our right was a breathtaking sight - an ancient amphitheatre, one of the few in north Africa and the only known one in Morocco. In the middle is a large mosaic of Poseidon, which has been covered over with dirt to preserve it. Here gladiators and animals such as lions would have fought and plays would have been performed. Behind that are the remains of a public bath-house. The changing rooms, pools and ovens to heat the water are still visible.

The remains of houses where the wealthiest citizens lived

In typical Roman (and later Islamic) style, houses were centred around courtyards

A little further on, with a magnificent view of the river Loukkas and the estuary, are the remains of the houses where the wealthiest citizens lived - those highly ranked in the army. Like Volubilis, the remains of the walls show that the house design was typically Roman, with rooms grouped off a courtyard.

Life, I imagined, would have been more than tolerable if you were in the upper classes. Attractive houses with wonderful views, a sizeable town which produced and traded good food, and for entertainment, plays and gladiatorial combat at the amphitheatre.

Visitors, too, would undoubtedly have made their way there. The name Lixus was mentioned by ancient writers such as Hanno the Navigator, a Carthaginian explorer who was active around 450 BC. and the Geographer of Ravenna. It is also confirmed by the legend on its coins and by an inscription. The ancients believed this to be the site of the Garden of the Hesperides and of a sanctuary of Hercules, where Hercules gathered gold apples. It's more ancient than the one at Cadiz in Spain.

The restored Roman armoury

 In the third century Lixus become nearly fully Christian and there are ruins of a Paleo-Christian church overlooking the archeological area. However, the city was badly damaged during the Arab conquest of North Africa in the 5th century. Some Arabs and Berbers continued to live there until a century later, as can be seen by the remains of a mosque and a house with a patio with walls covered in painted stucco. The final demise of the city came about in 1300 AC because of a mosquito problem and a drought. Whether there was an outbreak of malaria can only be speculated.

The Roman forum has been partially restored

Some of the columns were vandalised a month ago

Following the path leads to a restored armoury, and the remains of a watch tower. And down beyond, is what used to be a Roman forum. This has been partially restored. Last month, unfortunately, vandals broke in and stole some of the columns and pushed over others.

It's clear there is a desire from the government for Lixus to fulfil its potential. The new visitors's centre, by a Belgian architect, is stylish and well designed. Complete with electricity and water, it looks ready to go - it just needs the finishing touches.

It will contain a small museum, restoration areas for trained archeologists and offices for management, as well as a contemporary cafe with a wonderful view out over the the river and Larache. But it's been more than two years since work stopped.

It's to be hoped that the money can be found to complete the project. With a modest injection of funds, Lixus could easily compete with Volubilis as a popular site for tourists - whose revenue would in turn help fund continuing exploration and restoration of the site, and increased employment in the local area. It's a magic place - so make the effort to visit it.

Words and photos: Suzanna Clarke

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From Scotland to the Sahara ~ By Bicycle

When Paul Armstrong found himself unable to fly, he decided to cycle instead – all the way from Scotland to the Sahara. Vanessa Bonnin reports

Paul Armstrong in the Ruined Garden Café  in Fez - Photo Vanessa Bonnin

Armstrong, 27, from Alloway in Scotland, is a pilot with the Royal Navy who is equally passionate about cycling as he is flying. In January his entire fleet was grounded after two aircraft crashes and instead of taking off to Thailand with the rest of his squadron he decided to cycle to Morocco.

“I’ve ridden since I was a little kid, bikes are my thing,” Armstrong (no relation to Lance) said. “In the past I’ve done short tours like London to Amsterdam in two days, to the Alps and back, classic Tour de France climbs, that sort of thing, but this time I wanted to do a big tour. I had visited the north of Morocco 15 years ago with my parents but I wanted to see the real Morocco and go to the Sahara.”

But before he could search for “the real Morocco” he had to cycle all the way through Scotland, England, Belgium, France and Spain. On his Spin road bike, with a handmade titanium frame, he took in a few mountain ranges on the way including the Pyrenees, the Sierra Nevada and the Sierra de Grazalema.

“I left Scotland in mid-January, and for the first few weeks I was miserable because of the cold,” he said. “I could only take minimal kit on the bike and my SLR camera was my only luxury. Then from Malaga all the way to Larache there were horrendous headwinds, I was only doing an average of nine miles an hour, compared to my normal rate of 18 miles an hour. There was really heavy rain and I was having a miserable time!I also stacked it in Tangier only two miles from the ferry because they seemed to be digging up every road in Tangier at the time and the roads were covered in mud slicks.”

Despite thinking of his squadron in sunny Thailand, Armstrong persevered taking a route down through Morocco that went from Tangier to Larache (where he spent his 27th birthday), Rabat, Casablanca, Safi, Essaouria, Agadir, Tiznit and finally Tan Tan.

“Tan Tan was my most southerly destination but it was about the whole journey for me, not just the destination of the desert, although I really did want to see the sand dunes,” he said. “I baked even though I was using 50+ sunscreen! But it was phenomenal to see. What I was I most happy about was I’d been cycling into a head wind since Tangier – for over 1000kms – and it was pretty soul destroying. So turning around and having a tail wind was fantastic!”

Despite reaching the desert, his journey was far from over and the highlights of his adventure were yet to come.

“After Tan Tan I cycled back to Tiznit and then went inland over the Anti-Atlas to Tafraout,” he said. “These were Alpine-style climbs, really arduous averaging 8-9% inclines over 20 miles and the sun was blisteringly hot, climbing all the way to 2500m. But it was worth it, Tafraout and the whole area was spectacular, indescribable really.”

Armstrong then went from Taroudant to Marrakech, via the Tizi N’Test pass, a route that has been described as the most spectacular in Morocco, reaching a high point of 2092m above sea level.

“I was quite apprehensive about climbing the Tizi N’Test Pass which wasn’t helped by stopping and meeting a Moroccan cyclist working as a waiter at the bottom who said ‘there’s no way you’ll make it in one day’”, he said. "Undeterred however I set off and got to a sign at the start of the climb that said Tizi N’Test 36kms. There was a 7-8% gradient for the entire climb but I did it in 3.5 hours with 6 litres of water and 1.5 litres of Coca-Cola!

"That was my achievement moment, getting to the top of the Tizi N’Test Pass. There’s phenomenal scenery up there and then I set off on the descent into the sunset which was magic.”

After two days well-earned rest in Marrakech, Armstrong continued his Morocco tour through Beni Mellal, Khenifra, Azrou, Meknes and finally Fes, where we meet him – arriving for brunch at the Ruined Garden Café with a helpful local called Youssef.

“My whole experience of Morocco has been that the people are so friendly - Youssef is a good example of that friendliness,” he said. "I’ve almost come to expect it here. Bumping into people and getting chatting. The kids especially, all the kids run after you down the road, waving and holding out their hands to shake. It’s great, puts a smile on your face. With the bike you get to experience the country and the people in a way you wouldn’t in a car or campervan or on a motorbike.”

So what was the highlight of experiencing Morocco by bike?

“The best moment was when I was riding from Azrou to Meknes, I was riding through a 2000m pass in hailstones and strong winds,” he said “I had this car behind me, beeping and beeping, then they pulled alongside me and handed over some chocolate bars! It put a big smile on my face – I was soaked to the skin but that gesture really kept me going.”

And what does this intrepid explorer think of our beloved city, Fes?

“I love Fes, it’s a warren, you walk down side streets and discover new things, it’s one big adventure. I love the sense of discovery. And the tanneries are something else – they didn’t smell as bad as I thought they would!” he said.

Despite the hardships on this journey – his longest by bike so far – Armstrong is determined to try more cycling adventures in the future.

“Oh definitely, to ride in a different culture is amazing and to get to visit the country as well is a fantastic combination.”

Armstrong travelled on from Fes to Chefchaouen, Al Hoceima, Tangier and Malaga before flying home with a slightly heavier load that included the essential Fes purchases – a Moroccan, rug and a leather jacket!


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Is it safe to travel to Morocco?

Despite the odd comment that The View from Fez must be a government mouthpiece, we have to say that the protests in Morocco on Sunday were generally calm and orderly. The police acted with restraint, there was no bombardment of people by airforce jets, no defections by ministers and the King has not fled to Venezuela or anywhere else.

The protesters, which numbered somewhere between 40 000 (government figure) and 300 000 (protest organisers' figure) across the country, have some legitimate grievances, such as asking for an end to corruption, a more equitable society, better housing, more jobs and an independent judiciary. They also asked for the King to dissolve Parliament and give up some of his powers to a newly-elected government.

What has really angered many moderate Moroccans is the fact that some people were whipped up into the emotion of the moment, and carried out acts of vandalism and looting. Some government buildings and foreign-owned establishments such as banks had their windows broken. The five deaths reported in the northern city of Al-Hoceima were, we understand, those of looters who had broken into a bank that was subsequently set on fire by other vandals. Youths, some as young as 14, also threw stones at the police, who did not react.

Interior minister Taeib Cherqaoui said 128 people had been injured on Sunday, mostly police officers. A further 120 people were detained. He said "troublemakers" had vandalised dozens of public buildings, shops and banks.

Tangier, Larache, Marrakech, Sefrou, Tetouan and Guelmim suffered the worst violence, with a total of 33 public buildings being attacked or set on fire, reports the UK's Guardian newspaper.

Cherqaoui said the demonstrations themselves had been peaceful, calling them an example of "the healthy practice of the freedom of expression".

Since the protests on Sunday, there have been sporadic outbursts of action in Marrakech and in Fez where people were intimidated into striking yesterday, Monday. Shops in the Fez medina closed briefly when rumour had it that protesters were going to descend on the old city, but nothing transpired. Today, Tuesday, all seems back to normal and there's an air of relief on the medina streets.

HRH KING MOHAMMED VI MAKES A STATEMENT
In a statement released after the inauguration of the new Economic and Social Council, the King said, "By setting up this Council, we give strong support to the dynamic reform that we have put in place. In so doing, we make sure that building an effective democracy goes hand-in-hand with sustainable human development".

"We have always refused to bow to improvised public pressure", he continued, "but by our actions seek to consolidate our Moroccan democracy and development".

Morocco is officially a constitutional monarchy with an elected Parliament but the King, who is also Defender of the Faithful, holds the constitutional power to dissolve parliament and declare a state of emergency. He also has strong influence over the appointment of executive members of the government, including the prime minister.

In his statement, the King said, "We are adamant that we will go forward within our own Moroccan model; this is irreversible. We will not be content just to preserve what we have already achieved, but intend to consolidate with new reforms. This is in deep symbiosis and in total synergy with the will of the people".

"With this same commitment", he went on, "we mean to continue with structural reform, following a road map dedicated to clear objectives, founded on the close relationship between the throne and the people. Our ultimate aim is to assure all Moroccans of favourable conditions so that they might achieve dignified citizenship of a united Morocco that is advancing, and enjoy the benefits of unity and full sovereignty".

SAFETY FOR TOURISTS
Some travellers have been asking for advice about coming to Morocco. "I am certainly not prepared to cancel a long planned and much anticipated trip to Morocco", said Cathy in California, "but I now have concerns".

On Monday, the UK's Foreign & Commonwealth Office issued the following 'factual amendment' to their travel advice for Morocco:

There were demonstrations in a number of major cities across the country on 20 February, as well as looting and vandalism in Tangier, Marrakech and other locations. You should follow news reports and be alert to developments that might trigger public disturbances. You should take precautions for your personal safety and avoid public gatherings and demonstrations. Any increase in tension might affect Travel Advice.

We'd second that. Of course it's impossible to say whether the protest movement will call for further action in the future. But for the moment, travel to Morocco is still safe.

POSTCARD FROM LARACHE

The View from Fez Postcard Series Continues as our intrepid team heads to... 

LARACHE

Today we're in a town little visited by tourists outside the holiday season. Larache is situated on the southern banks of the Loukkos river estuary and has a long history of Portuguese and then Spanish occupation before the French.

The central square, Place de la Libération (also known as Plaza d'Espana) is large and planted with palm trees. Main roads fan out from it, full of early 1920 Mauresque buildings. The town retains a strong Spanish influence and many people speak Spanish as a second language.

Ruins of Portuguese fortifications (see above) can be found along the seafront, and you can sit at a pavement café on the square and see the sea.

Spanish investment in the town has meant that many of the beautiful old buildings are disappearing in favour of bright shiny apartment blocks. The Spanish influence is also found in the food - sardines and paella compete with the preponderance of pizza joints. Restaurants close around 10pm, but in season stay open much later.

LIXUS

We stopped off at Lixus on our way from Asilah to Larache.  Phoenician  settlement of this area dates back more than 2000 BCE. Much older than Volubilis.  Lixus sees fewer visitors, has been less well-researched and is quite overgrown. The resident guide, El Mokhtar El Hannache, will point out the later Carthaginian buildings, and the much later Roman constructions on top of them. Lixus was a maritime city, but these days the sea is 4km away.

There are the remains of a temple to Neptune on the site as well as an amphitheatre (the only one in Morocco), baths, houses, Carthaginian rainwater collection pits (the Romans abandoned these), other temples and a forum. The inhabitants made olive oil and a preserved fish paste much revered in Rome. Today the few olives are wild and only for the birds.

The views of the serpentine Loukkos river are superb from the top of the site. Salt beds, a view of distant Larache and fishing vessels at sea complete the scene.

On the northern side of the estuary, a beautiful beach stretches for miles. There's a large modern development, Port Lixus, with hotels; apartments and even a  marina, that's fortunately not visible from Larache. For now; the town relies on fishing and seasonal tourism and seems a world away from both squeaky-clean Asilah and the major cities of Tangier and Rabat.

See all The View from Fez POSTCARDS HERE.