Closed:Tacos de Guisado Pati,Mexico City: Contempo Street Food Stylings From a Taco de Guisado Institute

Update: This stand has closed due to Pati moving back to her home state

On the other side of town in Mexico's capitol, the street food choices are fewer, but none the less interesting. Colonia Roma Sur has some great street food,bordering the trendy neighborhood of Condesa.A couple of stands in the areas do some very creative and contemporary tacos de guisado,tacos of stews.

At Ricos Tacos de Guisado de Pati, you'll encounter convention and the unconventional.


Pati comes from Veracruz and has been on Av. Tlaxcala near the Chilpancingo metro station for about 17 years. She has 24 years making tacos de guisado in Mexico City. In addition to her tacos, she also makes enchiladas, flautas, and quesadillas. Although you are here for the tacos de guisado, nothing at this stand should be overlooked, it's all fantastic.


Last month, I stopped by for lunch and spotted her quesadilla de pancita, beef stomach stuffed into a fried tortilla, topped with lettuce, tomato, onions and queso blanco, white cheese.

I strongly suggest that you indulge in some of Pati's black beans. They are right alongside the salsas and are on the house. The beans have so many herbal virtues, and when they settle on your plate, a lush and fatty skin forms on the top begging for your attention.



The innards reveal a lovely guisado of stomach and vegetables. This is a perfect bite, so many pleasing textures and flavors, another dish of offal ready for the unwilling masses.


But the breakfast and lunch crowd are here for the tacos.


As in many traditional taco de guisado stands, Pati has a bunch of cazuelas stacked on her comal, and on each other. The guisados at these stands are prepared at home or in a commissary. That big pot of rice you will always find at a tacos de guisado stand is the glue that keeps it all on the tortilla.


This is perhaps the most common guisado in Mexico City, arroz con huevo.You may say,"rice with hard-boiled eggs....who wants that?" "Boring!" Oh no, my friend. There's a reason these are so popular. If the rice is delicious, the combination of the two comfort foods is unbeatable.

With a bit of Pati's masterfully crafted salsas, this taco is complete. Pati has pico de gallo, sometimes a chipotle salsa, a green salsa made with the more flavorful cuaresmeño, practically identical to the jalapeño, or a salsa of fresh chile de arbol.


Another typical stew is the chile relleno. These are soft, fluffy and expertly cooked, offered in a taco or on a plate.



Plump taco de chicharron is cooked al dente here, with more skin to sauce. This is an exceptional version of this ubiquitous stew, with a stronger pork skin quality that most others.



The taco de tortita de carne is another regular taco on the guisado scene. Various torts of meats and vegetables with egg, in this instance ground beef, are found all over Mexico City. Pati has a spinach as well as a a chicken tort I believe, but it all depends on the day and the whim of the cook.


The espinaca con crema is one of those tacos that says anything goes in the world of tacos de guisado. If it's good, then it belongs on a tortilla.

Creamed spinach, rice, and some spice? It's not a Mexican recipe, but Pati can cook anything and makes it taste great.



My all time favorite taco at Pati's is her taco de nopal con huevo. We're talking cactus strips in a tomato sauce with some fried eggs floating in the sauce. You get a fried egg on your taco, a contemporary version of the usual egg and cactus scramble. This stand has a flair for cooking.

When the yolk runs onto the rice, heavenly flavors abound.



If you ask for Tacos de Guisados de Pati, you'll only get blank stares. Her stand doesn't have an official name, outside the sign that says Ricos Tacos de Guisado, which is just saying what they have, really. And, yes,they are rico!But if you ask, "por donde estan los tacos de chile en nogada," you might get a little more help from the locals. It's not every stand that has these.




These are mini chiles en nogada done with chiles cuaresmeños in a taco. The nogada, walnut sauce, and picadillo(ground meat, nuts, and fruit)filling are lovingly crafted and completely lack any ruse. Mexico's celebrated national symbol of gastronomic achievement in the form of a humble street guisado, I love it. It's wild to think that these tacos are less than a dollar each.

Pati makes these street delicacies year round, not adhering to the seasonal character of chiles en nogada. With the pomegranate seeds, all of the elements of a taco are present, no need for condiments here.

Mexico City is the taco de guisado capitol of the universe, and one could even devote a lifetime to documenting the varieties in Mexico City alone, without success. For the taco lover, a visit to Pati's stand is an essential stop. It's the past,present, and future of Mexico's street food culture.

Ricos Tacos de Guisado de Pati
Tlaxcala between Chilpancingo and Tuxpan, across from the IMSS(Tlaxcala,159)
around the block from the Chilpancingo metro station
Colonia Roma Sur
Mexico City
Monday-Friday(morning 'til early afternoon), best items go fast
Colonia Roma Sur

CLOSED. Pal Cabron- Your Friendly Neighborhood Mexican Coke Dealer

This restaurant closed in 2011.

I've been a diner at Pal Cabron pretty much since its inception. Not only am I a supporter of this restaurant, but owner Bricia Lopez is a dear friend. She is the hostess with the mostess. I love bringing friends down here and recently came with new friend, Pepe Ruiz, who in all his years, new had a cemita or a clayuda.

Of course, our lunch was great, we had a fine afternoon with Bricia over Pueblan and Oaxacan fare, and Pepe is a new fan of the cemita.But, on my way out something caught my attention.


Now, I occasionally see threads on boards like the LA Chowhound boards about Mexican Coke. Where can you find it? Well, us latinos know you can get it in any of the latino markets, as well of most of the Mexican restaurants.So,it wasn't a surprise that Bricia had Mexican Coke, and Pepsi. Jarritos and Squirt. Check.


Mexican Squirt,Fresca and Yoli? Hmmmm.I don't see Yoli just anywhere, the lemon-lime soda out of Acapulco which is similar to sprite or 7-Up, but not as sweet.


Sidral's Mundet apple soda on the far right has been around since 1902, better than any apple soda on the market. This is getting serious.


Then I saw Boing, a non-carbonated fruit beverage that is very popular in various Latin-American communities.


It's not enough that Pal Cabron has become a Mexican soft drink theme park, but in addition to the usual Mexican beers she has Red Stripe,Newcastle, Guiness, and Heineken.


My self-serving streak started to tingle."Hey, can you get that soda that's from Puebla?", "It's only available there." "You mean O-Key", Bricia mused."I'll check it out." I told her if she did that, Pal Cabron could become a destination for Mexican Coke and soda fiends. I had tried O-Key on a recent trip to Puebla, and was bummed I couldn't find it anywhere else in Mexico, or the US. I'm usually drinking adult beverages, but for O-Key, I'll get on the wagon for a turn.

.......the next day..."It's here!" That was the text I got. Self-serving mission accomplished. Pal Cabron, your destination for Mexican Coke and beyond. The last bottle of O-Key on the shelf is mine, though!

Cemitas y Clayudas Pal Cabron Closed
2560 East Gage Avenue
Huntington Park, CA 90255
323 277 9899

CLOSED.Garibaldi en Tijuana, Tijuana,BC-Guadalajara's Karnes en su Jugo arrives to the Californias

This restaurant is now closed.

Carne en su Jugo is an inexplicably rare dish outside of Guadalajara. Despite a huge presence of Tapatios in Los Angeles and in Baja you can hardly find a restaurant that serves it. I've found a few places in LA that make it, but they're nothing worth making a special trip. Don Pacos in Tijuana claims to be a specialist, but most often you see people in the restaurant ordering other items.

Caren en su Jugo was made famous by the Guadalajara chain Karnes Garibaldi. The dish is simple, thin strips of steak in broth with bacon, chiles, and beans. They come to the table with cilantro, onions,radishes, limes, chips and salsa, and a tempting plate of refried beans mixed with corn. Karnes Garibadi is famous for its dish and also its fast service, the plate arrives to your table in Guiness World Book of Record time.


Well, Garibaldi en Tijuana is not affiliated with the iconic Guadalajara restaurant, but the owners are Tapatios who wanted to bring the authentic flavors of Jalisco to Tijuana. When I came across their bus stop bench ad, I hustled on over. They have been open for just three weeks, and on this night were feeding their families and shooting a commercial that will run on a local station.


The restaurant has a classic Mexico feel in a strip mall-like space, with brick red walls adorned with revolutionary figures and culture defining photographs. Upstairs is a smaller dining area that's available for events and conferences.


If you've ever been to El Parian in Tlaquepaque, a furniture and craft shopping district with a popular destination to hear mariachis and eat local foods. A highlight of a trip to El Parian must include a jarritos, a tequila, squirt, orange, lime and salt cocktail served in a clay jar. This is a refreshing cocktail to start your evening Tapatio style at Garibaldi en Tijuana.


Condiments for your karne en su jugo arrives along with the complimentary refried beans with corn. The deliberate misspelling of carne with karne comes from the chain Karnes Garibaldi. These refritos are pure Guadalajara soul, lard spiked beans with an accent of corn goodness.


Hand made tortillas are a good sign always.


the karne en su jugo arrives, not in record time, but fast enough. Their only goal at Garibaldi en Tijuana is to deliver the taste, not the time. The broth is slurp-up-every-last-drop delicious. Tender steak and bacon drowned in a mild spicy broth with a tang of tomato and beef stock come together like a virtuosic mariachi trio.


Garibaldi en Tijuana is a karne en su jugo specialist. The other menu offerings are to nosh on before the signature dish arrives. Queso fundido, the fondue of Mexico topped with slices of chorizo, guacamole, and other time honored fare. With an order of karne en su jugo with jarritos for a friend and I, we came out of there for about $10 USD.


Market forces at work!

Those in need of your karne en su jugo fix just need cross the border and head down to the Zona Rio. If your taxi driver doesn't know where this new place is just say it's next to Black Line. Black Line is an adult video shop that's been around for years, and everyone in town seems to know where it is. The facial distortions of confusion and ignorance turn to smiles and knowing grins."Oh, I know where THAT is."

Garibaldi en Tijuana
Jose Maria Velasco #2632
Zona Rio
664-634-7335
a un costado de Black Line
open 7 days('til 8pm)

CLOSED.Antojitos de la Abuelita:Straight Outta Neza

Due to the strict letter grading system implemented this past year for trucks, La Abuelita closed in 2011 and will reopen when they are able to acquire a brick and mortar.

You may have noticed the food trailer parked on Vineland in North Hollywood in the last couple of months or so.This part of Vineland lies a few blocks south of Victory Bl., more related to the sketchy credit car dealerships that never seem to be open, and shoddy looking automotive enterprises of the the area surrounding the west side of the Burbank Airport.

In a mini strip mall across from buzzing power lines are three shops, a sign store, a party supply store, and a beauty salon. The owners, a family from Ciudad Nezahualcóyotl(fasting coyote in the nahautl language), a city in the state of Mexico, just outside Mexico City.It's referred to by locals simply as Ciudad Neza.

Neza has a bad reputation in the news, but its reputation of rampant crime is sensationalized much in the same way parts of East Los Angeles and South Central are portrayed. But, saying you're from Neza carries the same sense of pride that an Angelino might have coming from Compton or South Gate.These are great communities that have their challenges, but those who make it may feel an extra sense of accomplishment.

Antojitos de la Abuelita is run by a husband and wife team, along with family members, including la abuelita. They do the cuisine of Mexico City, so many seem to be popping up in recent years, but there's something else going on here.


They set up a tent and tables in the parking lot of their businesses providing the type of weekend mobile service you find in Mexico City. An outdoor sit down food truck, or rather a trailer.Their menu has the usual DF style snacks:pambazos, huaraches, and sopes, but their menu also includes other genuine DF street food items that make this restaurant a contender for the best DF style restaurant in town.

They offer different aguas frescas each day, chilled in jars at the condiment table.Horchata, jamaica, tamarindo, watermelon, or whatever is fresh that day.


Their tacos are excellent even though they are overshadowed by other menu offerings. The cooking of meats here are deft in flavor and texture. On weekends they do barbacoa cooked in maguey spines, moist and elegant flavors of mutton. You can get it with consome, but the taco by itself is a stand alone food.

The cilantro and onions cut fresh to your order by the three women working in the kitchen, tangy tomatillo salsa pairs brilliantly with gamey mutton.


The guajillo chile dipped and fried roll stuffed with chorizo and potatoes known as the pambazo is one of the best in the city.It's not quite the edgy version done by Nina's from Breed St., but neither does it shy away from the messy street food sandwich that it is.


This is also another kitchen within a kitchen of street soups. They serve menudo, which is mostly eaten from street stands on benches in Mexico, red pozole, and caldo de gallina.

All soups are made from scratch and from quality ingredients.The pozole has nice flavor, and can be had with chicken, pork,or both. This was the least interesting of the three, only because it was a little too salty, but still a solid pozole.


The real stars here are the menudo and caldo de gallina(hen soup).The menudo comes with a nice pata(foot), a prized item for the menudo lover.


This is a sublime menudo served in a genuine curbside setting. On some days they hang some pinatas from the party supplies store for additional ambiance.

Caldo de gallina the most common soup served all over Mexico City, in fondas, street stands, moslty by specialists. This is a rarely served soup in LA, which is odd considering the increasing number of DF style establishments.


But of course, this place is called Antojitos de la Abuelita, and the antojitos are worth the trip alone. This is where most DF, of Chilango restaurants start and end here in town.

Typical guisados(stews or fillings)are delivered in the grilled quesadillas, huitlacoche(corn smut), flor de calabaza(squash blossom)with cheese,mushrooms with cheese. The huitlacoche here is outstanding.


Huaraches, the large sandal shaped sopes(masa boats) come with traditional asada, or lengua. These are among the best in town, I like the black bean filling of the huaraches at Don Huarache, but the meat is superior here at Antojitos. All meats are tender, juicy, and flavorful.


Tlayudas, the so called Oaxacan pizzas found at our many Oaxacan restaurants in LA, are brought to a new sensation at this restaurant. I've always found the meats to be less than delicate.The cecina, thin chile marinated pork leg, and tasajo, salted beef round, are supposed to be supple and full flavored. The chubby Oaxacan pork chorizo is sometimes quite ordinary,pourly sourced by uninspired owners.

Here at Antojitos del la Abuela you will find arguably the most satisfying tlayuda, also spelled clayuda, in Los Angeles. The cecina, tasajo, and chorizo are delicious, their presence are revelatory as flvor components rather than filler.These are big enough to share, so grab one to go and pick up a six-pack of chelas(beers)for the perfect party snack.


The family isn't comfortable with pictures, they are very quiet and pleasant,but were concerned about why I was taking pictures. I had to get most of these items to go and photograph them at home or in my car, but this place is too good to keep a secret.

All their food is made to order, three reserved women with serious execution assembling street food master works.

This is the most serious Mexican kitchen in the Valley, and one of the deepest trucks in LA.

Antojitos de la Abuelita
6135 Vineland Ave.(parked in front of Party Supply)
North Hollywood, CA
Wednesdays through Friday around 5PM 'til 9PM
Saturdays and Sundays 8AM to 10PM
barbacoa, caldo de gallina, menudo,and pozole are weekends only.

Closed:Blame it on Rio Brazil Cafe

When I was gallivanting all over Little Brazil looking for the wonderful foods from Brazil I so long for, I came across some meaningful finds.

I first went to Rio Brazil Cafe when it was still Brazil Exotic Foods, before this space was briefly occupied by Delicias do Brazil and for a few years running had been Cafe Toros before that.

I started going regularly only to find it had closed, Luciene had told me she wasn't sure how long she could stay afloat, and then the health dept. closed Brazil Exotic Food for having a faulty hood on their deep fryer.I thought all was lost until I received an e-mail, yes I was on the small mailing list, from Luciene that she was back in business.

Luciene Peck has the only Brazilian restaurant in town featuring the cuisine of Rio de Janeiro, the marvelous city(cidade maravilhosa).During the week she does the typical complete meals found in luncheonettes and Brazilian pubs(botecos) called prato feito, which consists of a protein, rice, beans, farofa, and perhaps a side salad.This is Brazilian home cooking. On the weekends she pulls out all the stops and conjures up famous entrées, much needed in our saturated market of churrascarias(Brazilian steakhouses).

The restaurant is simple in decor, with a touch of sentimentality and the national colors of Brazil to welcome you into the warmth and spirit of Rio.


The feijoada of Rio is unique, feijoada is done with subtle variations throughout Brazil, different beans other than black beans in some parts, the ommitance of a particular side, a variation in spicing. But the most popular version of feijoada completa belongs to Rio.Black bean stew of salted pork parts including ear, trotters, tail,various sausages, and muscle tissue, with sides of farofa(toasted manioc meal), rice,couve(collared greens), and orange slices.

On a recent feijoada throwdown with good friend Exilekiss, we found Rio Brazil Cafe version to reign supreme, tied with Zabumba's.Luciene makes genuine feijoada, with tender meats, homemade carne seca, luscious beans, and all the pleasing textures of a real feijoada. This is required eating at Rio Brazil Cafe.


Casquinha de siri is Brazilian crab au gratin. It originates from Bahia, but is done the Carioca(person from Rio) way here in Luciene's kitchen.The differences in style are the secrets and spells of Brazilian cooks.Think of a crab au gratin laced with dende oil, and coconut milk, a whole other layer of sin.


The malagueta peppers mixed with olive oil and spices known as pimenta will temp you to excess. The heat creeps up on you, but the flavor is rich and full bodied.


Luciene's bobo de camarao, is another dish with Bahia origins,but adopted by Rio palates.This is a standout dish at Rio Brazil, delicate, with all those exotic ingredients in bold harmony.Add some pimenta and you've gone pro.


Moquecas(baian stews) of fish and hearts of palm are available on the weekends. The sauce is properly cooked down so that flavor is optimized in every bite. This is the mark of a great moqueca. There's something here for fish lovers and vegetarians.Again, a Rio translation of a plate from Bahia.A savory side of feijao fradinho(black-eyed peas) was included with my moqueca de peixe(fish).


Last weekend, I met up with Josh Lurie of FoodGPS with his girlfriend Allison, and Das Ubergeek of chowhound for a taste of Rio.And, to my delight, Renni and Ilma of Sabor da Bahia had stopped in for a bite, Renni, a lovely Brazilian singer sat in with a fine bossa nova guitarist.Other Brazilian diners sang along with bossa nova classics such as Corcovado, Agua de Beber, and Desafinado. It was a scene right out of a pub in Copacabana at 3AM. Look for Voz e Violao(voice and guitar) on Saturdays when Rio Brazil gives you the boteco(pub) experience known as Frigideira Carioca.The frigideira is a samba percussion instrument that looks like a little frying pan.It has a its roots back when people picked up whatever they could find, including pots and pans, to make music and party.


The desserts we had after our meal were amazingly good, The coconut pudding topped with blackberrie,rasberries, and bluberries was over the top delicious.


The mousse of passionfruit adorned with the fruit's dark seeds was pure Brazil, sweet and tart tropical fruit with stirring composition.


Luciene has family and friends helping out, her 72-year old mother, known as Dona Lucia, is revered for her cooking.Dona Lucia helps in the kitchen sometimes and makes all the brilliant savories at Rio Brazil Cafe. Coxinhas de frango(little croquette of chicken), shaped like little chicken thighs are perfect here,my favorite snack on the planet. They have croquettes with cheese, risolis of shrimp, and whatever Dona Lucia may feel like. They are the small party size, so get a sampling of whatever they have that night. These are made at home until they can replace the hood of the deep fryer.

If you find yourself singing songs by Gilberto Gil, of Carlos Jobim, thinking about an afternoon on Ipanema beach or a rowdy night in Copacabana after leaving Rio Brazil Cafe, you can blame Lucience Peck and her crew. They're bringing superior cooking and a bona fide Brazilian aesthetic to LA's dining scene.Beleza!

Check out Miles Clement's review of Rio Brazil Cafe from the LA Times.Thanks again, Miles.And, good friend, Josh Lurie's great review from our visit together.

Rio Brazil Cafe
3300 Overland Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90034
(310) 558-3338