Showing posts with label Jordan Kahn. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jordan Kahn. Show all posts

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Today's Double Feature:Jackass, The Restaurant and Red Medicine, The Wrath of Kahn


"Ah, Kirk, my old friend. Do you know the Klingon proverb that tells us revenge is a dish that is best served cold? ... It is very cold in space."
Khan Noonien Singh

Hello, this is Noah Ellis......and welcome to Jackass

By now, you all know the story about the Red Medicine team of Jordan Kahn(chef/partner),Noah Ellis(managing partner), and Adam Fleischman(partner) refusing to allow Los Angeles Times food critic S. Irene Virbila to dine at their restaurant. It first broke in the media on LA Weekly and then a story ran on LA Time's blog with quotes from the humiliated critic.

Noah Ellis, the apparent enforcer of Red Medicine's non-friendly writer's policy, booted her and here party, snapped a candid photo, and then posted the picture on Red Medicine's website, outing the critic's anonymity. On the same post he stated Red Medicine's reason for taking this rash action, judging from the overwhelmingly negative response in respect to Red Medicine's behavior on most of the discussion threads throughout LA and beyond.

Tonight, in the middle of a particularly hairy service, Irene Virbila arrived for her reservation (4 people under the name "Fred Snow" with a phone number of 310-999-9959), and because we had guests lingering, were not able to sit immediately.

She was recognized, and at while standing by the door, I was able to take this photo of her. At this point, I asked her and her party to leave, as we don't care for her or her reviews.

This has since been taken down from their website.

Our purpose for posting this is so that all restaurants can have a picture of her and make a decision as to whether or not they would like to serve her. We find that some her reviews can be unnecessarily cruel and irrational, and that they have caused hard-working people in this industry to lose their jobs -- we don't feel that they should be blind-sided by someone with no understanding of what it takes to run or work in a restaurant.

Upon asking her to leave, her husband and dining companions were quite upset, and made mention that this may be illegal and was cruel and unfair. Obviously, she was not discriminated against as part of any protected class, but rather because she is someone we choose not to serve here.

We're writing this to make everyone aware that she was unable to dine here, and as such, any retribution by her or on her behalf via a review cannot be considered to be unbiased.

We hope that those of you in the industry will support us by coming by for a late-snack or drink (the story is told much better in person), and will use this recent picture to your benefit.


Since the initial reporting by the LA Weekly the story has gone international, a PR coup?

Writer Miles Clements suggested a motive for Red Medicine's actions, an unfavorable review by S. Irene Virbila of XIV, while Jordan was then the pastry chef at Michael Mina's XIV.It had been rumored during Red Medicine's run at Test Kitchen, that the chef and team weren't interested in any form of feedback in respect to their cuisine, period. Is this wise? In defense of anonymous criticism, Patric Kuh of Los Angeles Magazine pointed out that critics are willing to say things that restaurant front and back of house, and customers are unwilling to say, things that can be helpful to restaurant and consumer. I mean, this is the job you've chosen. Clearly, there is a history between Red Medicine and S. Irene Virbila.

"He tasks me! He tasks me, and I shall have him! I'll chase him round the Moons of Nibia, and round the Antares Maelstrom, and round perdition's flames before I give him up! Prepare to alter course!"
Khan Noonien Singh

It has come to my attention that Red Medicine has decided that they will only interested in criticism that is to their liking. Adam and Jordan are readers and supporters of Eater LA and Kevin Eats,and Kevin Eats appears to have unlimited access, although Jordan Kahn did write a snooty note to Kevin about his picture taking and meticulous note taking during his dinner when he signed Kevin's menu.You can view this on Kevin's Red Medicine post. Kevin Eats is somewhat of a fine dining and celebrity chef fan boy, and tends to spin positively even when he might have some reservations about his dining experience. There's nothing wrong with that, Kevin is an enthusiastic supporter of fine dining, but is this the only style of commentary you desire? Noah on the other hand seems to have a general disdain for camera toting types, so diner beware.

As a professional musician, I don't get this. We get reviewed, booed, praised, mistreated, unappreciated, respected, celebrated, by critics,fans, and other musicians. Countless jam sessions with older musicians where you learn by getting your head cut(shown up). It doesn't matter, you're a pro and dedicated to your art, you keep on playing and keep your head up. In this world we rate art, music, restaurants, books, consumer products, cars, even a damn toaster gets critiqued.

But, it is clear that S. Irene Virbila is not welcome and was given the treatment.Rude behavior, immature antics, and mean-spirited vengeance from a young and impulsive crew. Did I need to hear why from Noah, per his open invitation to buy food and drinks at Red Medicine in exchange for his side of the story? Not really. I mean, "are you nuts?",to quote Michael Mina. I also understand that Jonathan Gold is regarded with indifference, but Frank Bruni is a favorite of Red Medicine. He did refer to Jordan Kahn as to be creating desserts that would have pleased Jackson Pollock. Well, Red Medicine likes that, Frank Bruni gets Jordan Kahn, or at least he did while the chef made desserts at Varietal, so Frank Bruni gets most favored nation status.

I wonder if any Los Angeles critics are truly welcome, S. Irene Virbila, Jonathan Gold, Patric Kuh, other LA Weekly and LA Times writers. Did you guys open in the wrong city?


It's no secret that Jordan has been the talk of the industry here in LA this past year, from his stint at XIV, reception at Star Chefs, to his partnering with Umami Burger magnate, Adam Fleischman. There has been so much anticipation for this restaurant and even a giddy fan base of foodie sycophants ready to make Red Medicine the hot spot.The world's at your finger tips guys, but guess that's not enough? Adam's participation in this saga is a bit surprising here with such a mainstream hit as Umami Burger. You'd think that he wouldn't touch this with a ten foot pole.


James T. Kirk: Khan. Khan, you've got Genesis. But you don't have me! You were going to kill me, Khan. You're going to have to come down here. You're going to have to come down here.

Khan Noonien Singh: I've done far worse than kill you. I've hurt you. And I wish to go on... hurting you. I shall leave you as you left me, as you left her. Marooned for all eternity, in the center of a dead planet... buried alive. Buried alive.
James T. Kirk: KHHHHAAAAAAAAN!


Certainly, S. Irene Virbila is an easy target, her reviews have been mostly softballs as of recent, more friendly to mainstream restaurants in these tough economic times, averaging 2 stars for most places. And, she doesn't connect with young Los Angeles and the new dining scene. What? Because she's elderly it's OK, because she may not be in line with the times? It's JACKASS, make fun of our elders, because.....they're old. No man, respect for your elders and well behaved diners.

Her three star review of Red O was way off, but I have to say that without S. Irene Virbila's review of Rick Bayless's flawed restaurant, my post might not have had the steam that it did. To that I say, thanks Irene. Discourse is what makes our scene better. This Jackass mentality, that somehow, crassness, bullying, and saying fuck everybody is no way for a corporate restaurant based in Beverly Hills to act.This self-serving rebellion is as jive as Kurt Cobain posing for the Rolling Stone cover thinking he's keeping it real because his t-shirt says,"I Still Think Corporate Magazines Suck!" It's the ultimate hypocrisy. You guys think you're punk?More like Green Day.Beverly Hills punk? You wanna be punk, come up to Panorama City, Van Nuys, or set up in Westminster.

Perhaps S. Irene Virbila's review of Animal, which is inconsequential, could be the culprit in your trepidations. Animal is brilliant, Jon and Vinny proudly stand in rebellion as a counter-culture restaurant, and as breakout leaders of the new guard. I know you love 'em, and so do I. Despite Irene's flailing about their restaurant, it's packed and killing every night. There are million ways you could counter a negative review, but success is the sweetest revenge, young pâtissier.

The Los Angeles Times will review your place, one way or another, and so will the lot of us.

This Manifesto indicates a lack of faith in the average person's intellect. Do I need to know you're not Vietnamese, or that your food isn't traditional Vietnamese? I'm looking at you guys and I'm thinking, nope, not one of them is Vietnamese. I believe the original logo you had with Ho Chi Minh's picture indicates a complete ignorance of Vietnamese culture, but you guys did remove the offensive picture, very wise.Hey, let's open a Cuban restaurant in Miami and call it Che Guevara, what do you think? Our expectations of your food is that it's great, but you can't call your sandwich banh mi and beg us not compare it to a great banh mi. Why all the disclaimers? Your food shouldn't require explanation, it should speak for itself.If you're having to tell us some story, or are just trying to abolish any frame of reference, then something's not happening on the plate. I don't care what your manifesto says, I'm getting my banh mi from a banh mi shop, and I'm not Vietnamese either, nor is anyone in my family. You made phở at Test Kitchen with a poor broth, completely missing the point of phở, no, scratch that unlawful comparison, the point of SOUP.

In general, the Red, Manifesto, and Ho Chi Minh nonsense is troubling. This is cute? I wonder how the Vietnamese community would feel about all this? Certainly, the highly assimilated Vietnamese-Americans in the LA food scene find this offensive, but how about older restaurateurs down in Westminster, people who had real experiences with these symbols you find so cool? I grew up in Stockton,CA, where a huge population of Cambodians, Laotians, Hmong, Vietnamese, and ethnic Chinese from Southeast Asia arrived in the 70's, many from re-education camps. A kid from my graduating class lost his mother and father in a mine field, as he watched. Is this arrogance or ignorance? This folly with your Red Medicine metaphor is really a separate issue, but what I want to point out here is a pattern of carelessness that you might want to address. Maybe Irene could put your pictures up in the Vietnamese restaurants you go for inspiration, with that logo with Ho Chi Minh's face? Then maybe they could decide you are unsound, and not interested in a good time.

In regards to S. Irene Virbila? Don't worry about that, because we also are able to discriminate from reviews that have meaning, or are more on the money, as in the case of Rivera and Wolfgang's Steakhouse, to useless reviews of places in which we disagree with Irene's assessment like as in the case of Animal. We don't care what she says about Animal, neither do the dudes. I really don't think the people who go to Animal, or Red Medicine are really the S. Irene Virbila crowd anyway, which leads me to believe this might be purely a PR stunt, or better, a Jackass style prank, albeit I'll conceived.

I like Adam, and hell, we're friends on FACEBOOK for crying out loud, he's always been a gentleman.I thought Noah was very professional and likable when I previewed Red Medicine's menu at Test Kitchen, twice. I also tried Jordan's cuisine at Star Chef's, the brilliant and delicious cube, and at the Umami burger dinner with the fantastic wine pairings by David Haskell. Jordan made a great burger that night, and a good dessert to the best of my recollection.

I found my Red Medicine preview dinner at Test Kitchen mostly unimpressive, and I've been uninterested in rushing out to the restaurant. Because I had lacked anything positive to say, I'd even trashed my picture set. It's my practice to highlight great eateries. No doubt, Jordan has the ability and talent to improve the menu, but presently the word on the street is that the food is overpriced for what you're getting.This is what I experienced at Test Kitchen for Jordan Kahn's tasting menu.Lot's of mixed reviews, but my conversations with others who've gone to the restaurant have been lukewarm at best. Kevin Roderick suggested that Red Medicine just shut up and make their restaurant better, sage advice.

No need to discuss what your rights are, we all know you can toss whomever, but great cooking, a sense of value, and polished service are the keys to your survival, nothing more. I personally don't want to patronize a restaurant that treats a person, someone's grandmother with such disdain, that photographs a woman in an unflattering way without permission. That's just the old-fashioned guy in me. I don't care if it's an anonymous writer, Yelper, obnoxious blogger, no one should be thrown out unless they've been unruly.Yes you're within your rights, but we have the right to cry foul, and keep our distance. Resistance is futile, oh, wrong Star Trek movie. Open your doors to all and be judged, fearless, and with conviction, OR start a private club for yes men and fawning flatterers.

So, you guys wouldn't banh mi...... would ya? Noah said that this isn't a war on all forms of journalism, but I'm not convinced.The pomposity that has accompanied your collective actions from the Ho Chi Minh logo to your vendetta with S. Irene Virbila and her friends speaks otherwise, and without the cuisine to back it up. Think this requires more than an invite to buy a drink or a bite at the bar to hear base justifications. It seems you are attempting let things quiet down, but there's so much more to do when you've done a wrong.There are many of us, and we won't patronize a restaurant that is inhospitable, set to lash out at any perceived enemies. I find Red Medicine's handling of S. Irene Virbila to be unnecessarily cruel and irrational, and, I don't you think you guys know how to run a restaurant.

Kirk out............Kaaaaaaaaahn!

Red Medicine
8400 Wilshire Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
Open until 2 am ***
323-651-5500
***Have a Plan B bloggers, Yelpers, writers,Twitterers,journalists,etc.In case you're not interested in a good time, as defined by Noah Ellis.