Saved by Uni-Mariscos El Pizón in the OC Weekly's Tijuana Si!

Jurel con erizo en salsa de mostaza at El Pizón

In case you missed the fantastic news, Ensenada just got a little more tastier with the addition of Mariscos El Pizón to it's pantheon of seafood gods and goddesses.

In last week's Tijuana Si!, I wrote about the delights of sea urchin at this relatively unknown and unsung seafood cart.

You can catch El Pizón on on September 7th at our upcoming Club Tengo Hambre Tour: The Best of Baja--Ensenada in 8-courses.

Provecho!

Bags are Packed for the 1st World Street Food Congress(May 31-June 9, 2013) in Singapore with Sabina Badera in Tow--Go Team Mexico!

World Street Food Congress 2013, Singapore

When the first annual World Street Food Congress decided to recruit one of the best street food carts in the galaxy, they enlisted council member Bryant Ng of L.A.'s Spice Table to make it happen, so I got the call. The Singapore based Makansutra organization is going to be featuring Sabina Bandera and her daughter Mariana Oviedo at the congress, which is designed to promote the most inspired cuisine on the planet--street food. 

I'm being sponsored by the congress for bringing Ensenada's La Guerrerense to Singapore, where I will also participate in a live interview in front of a studio audience with Chef Bryant Ng.  

Sabina Bandera of La Guerrerense, Ensenada


Read more about the legendary La Guerrerense here.

World Street Food Congress council members, Anthony Bourdain(L), and James Oseland(Center)


The congress will function as a think tank of the leading street food industry leaders and champions of ambulatory dining like CNN's Anthony Bourdain, and Saveur Magazine's James Oseland. Street food is the most common experience shared by the largest group of people on the planet--the lower classes.


Some of the issues to be tackled at the WSFG will be how to educate more vendors about food safety practices, and how to encourage small businesses in the arena of street food entrepreneurship.  


If you can make it out to Singapore, you'll be able to catch me at the hawker stalls, and at La Guerrerense's booth where they will be introducing Singaporeans to Ensenada style street gourmet. See you in Singapore!


World Street Food Congress
May 31-June 9

Ensenada Gastronomica 2011: Ensenada Receives its Due from Top Mexican Chefs in the City's First Gastronomic Congress

On June 16th we attended the Ensenada Gastronomica: a gathering of Mexico's top chefs to recognize the importance of Ensenada in Mexican gastronomy and to take stock on its wealth of ingredients.

The two-day congress organized by Alejandro Perez Kuri--who stressed the need to include the contributions of Ensenada towards Mexican cuisine's recognition by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage--included cooking demos, workshops with local products and species, and an impressive gathering of Mexico's star chefs. 300 eager culinary students attended to learn from the best, meet their favorite chefs, and immerse themselves in the city that has garnered a reputation all over Mexico for its choice products and style of cooking.

Perhaps the most renowned chef, Enrique Olvera, kicked off the congress with a demonstration and discussion of the role of maize in Mexican cuisine. A cuisine with a base of maize was the presentation given to UNESCO that led to Mexico's award in 2010.

Chef Enrique Olvera is a pioneer of modern Mexican cuisine with his groundbreaking Pujol in Mexico City. He has taken Mexican street food and introduced avant garde techniques in his restaurants. In 2011, his restaurant Pujol received a grand honor by being named 1 of the 50 best restaurants in the world by S.Pelligrino.

It was more apparent than ever at this event that Mexico's chefs, too are now rock stars. A recent phenomena in the US driven by television has taken hold with the new Utilisima network, which features many of the chefs at this congress. Each cooking demo ended with an autograph session--the culinary students were as giddy as a flock of teenagers at a Justin Bieber meet and greet.

During the course of the day we were able to catch some of the chefs and ask a few questions at this very well organized event. On our minds foremost was about the significance of Ensenada in the national scene.

Chef Arturo Fernandez, Raiz Cocina de Estaciones

Chef Arturo Fernandez was at the congress representing the cuisine of the Yucatan. He was the first Mexican chef to work at El Bulli, and opened the modern cuisine restaurant Laos(Merida) before commencing with his latest project at Raiz, in the State of Mexico.

SGLA: Why is Ensenada so important right now in respect to Mexican cuisine?

AF: This is our[Mexico's] store where the best products are coming from. This is where Mexico goes to shop for its seafood. It’s the sparkplug that’s setting off a production based on intelligence, using the appropriate manpower, respect and consideration for its fine products. At this moment, this is our store. Many people all over the country are imitating what they’ve been doing here for the last 80 years; with a theme that Mexican food is meant to be paired with wine, which is very unique to Baja.


SGLA: What will it take for the world to recognize Mexican’s gastronomic contributions to cuisine?

AF: We have been dealing with outside[European] forces that have influenced us. We believe in what we are[now] doing. We are united, and we have a friendship and a brotherhood that is working to revive our own[Mexican] traditions; that is what we are bringing to the national scene. Right now among the 50 best restaurants in the world, there are two of them right here in Mexico. Many other countries can’t make this claim. In 10 years, we will be #1. The best chef will be Mexican. This will happen within the next 7-8 years.

Chef Mikel Alonso, Biko

Biko tops many lists as Mexico's best restaurant. Chef Alonso was born in Biarritz, France, grew up in the Basque country, and has been living in Mexico City for the last 14 years. He has garnered a reputation for being a serious chef that can usually be found in his kitchen. He does events, but there's no time for the beach nor after parties--he wants on a plane and to be cooking immediately. He hoped that the culinary students understood that they are chefs, and should strive to be chefs, not rock stars.

During his cooking demo he said something profound which revealed the singular drive behind his triumphs: If you don't capture someone's attention, there's no memory, and without the element of surprise, there's no pleasure. Well Chef Mikel Alonso certainly has captured the attention of his diners and has achieved Mexico's highest spot on S.Pelligrino's 50 Best Restaurants in the World.

SGLA: Why is Ensenada so important right now in respect to Mexican cuisine?

MA: Mexico has a spinal column in its gastronomy that’s connected to the rest of Mexico, and to the whole world. Several of these vertebrae are Ensenada, not one, but many. Ensenada isn’t only the people, but the coasts, its place, its geographic location--it’s so beneficial. [It's] the cold waters, the bounty of seafood, but it’s not just the people who utilize [the products] these people treat it with lots of care. It’s impressive: the magic of the Valle de Guadalupe. Really, its appearance and beauty is a gift from God. The region--it’s really nothing without the people that treat it with so much care. This is the grandeur of Ensenada.

SGLA: What will it take for Mexico’s cuisine to be more respected internationally?

MA: This is something very sensible: cooking with truth and honesty. Work every day. You have to work, and to not fall into the trap of Hollywood stardom. We are chefs, not rock stars.[You have] to buy the best products and to have the sufficient technique to make them delicious. When the client goes to your restaurant with their mouth and their eyes, they should have an experience that leaves them with a smile, and a feeling that they’re in their own house. Nothing else matters.

Chef Mikel Alonso wants the influence of his grandparents to be present in his cooking.

Local Rockot presented in Biko's signature style. "Cooking is patient, slow"-Chef Mikel Alonso.

Chef Benito Molina, Manzanilla

In Ensenada's vital restaurant scene, Manzanilla is the heart and soul of the city. Chef Benito Molina has established himself as one of Mexico's greatest chefs, and his restaurant is a training ground for the local culinary boom. Many of the young talented chefs in the area started in Molina's kitchen, and his influence can be seen throughout Baja and in other parts of the republic.

Manzanilla is now an outpost where many of the chefs at this conference frequent, to hang out and do special tasting menus when they're in town using the rich, gifts of the Baja waters

Along with his wife, Chef Solange Muris, he is now star of the hit cooking show on Utilisima, Benito y Solange.

SGLA: Why is Ensenada so important right now in respect to Mexican cuisine?

BM: Because the best seafood from Mexico comes from here, the best wine, and the best olive oil; so [it's] the combination of all those three.

SGLA: What will it take for Mexico’s cuisine to be recognized more internationally?

BM: I think it’s going to take more fine dining restaurants promoting the local produce. On the other hand ,we were designated an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO. Very few cuisines in the world have this recognition, and like I say, lately I’ve been taking trips to South America; and Oaxaca alone is more intricate than most of Latin America. Oaxaca’s just one state [in Mexico]. We have 32 more states. The richness of what we have here is unquestionable. Where would European food be without tomatoes? Tomatoes came from here. Where would the chocolate world be without cacao that came from here, or vanilla that came from here? Mexican cuisine is not recognized as it should because not many Mexican chefs have opened fine dining restaurants abroad. There are excellent fine dining restaurants in Mexico, but there are very few, we have only one fine dining restaurant outside of Mexico.

SGLA: Lately, you’ve been taking trips to South America and Oaxaca?

BM: Oaxaca--constantly.

SGLA: What have you learned and applied to your restaurants from those trips?

BM: From South America? [That] we should be very proud of what we’re doing in Mexico, not that they’re doing a bad job, especially Brazil – Brazil has some amazing food – but Argentina, Colombia, Republica Dominicana, it’s good, but after five days, that’s it. Here you can go for 30 days and you still have more [to taste].

Chef Aquiles Chavez, Lo

Star of two of Mexico's highest rated cooking shows--Aquilisimo and Toque de Aquiles-- Chavez has captured the hearts and minds of the Mexican viewing public. He's arguably the most famous chef in Mexico and has excited the public about Mexican cuisine from his home state: Tabasco.

His recent programs have featured chefs and street food in Tijuana, Ensenada, and the Valle de Guadalupe.

SGLA: Why is Ensenada so important right now in respect to Mexican cuisine?

At the end of the day, it’s the gastronomic center of this country. It’s more about the cooking rather than its plates that represents Baja, California, except for the lobster from Puerto Nuevo with rice and beans, but apart from this, it doesn’t have what they have in Morelia, Yucatan or Tabasco or Oaxaca. The cuisine known as Baja Californian, is relatively new, created by people like Chef Benito Molina Dubost and Solange; in Tijuana, Chef Javier Plascencia; and in Rosarito and Tijuana, Chef Miguel Angel Guerrero. The cuisine of Baja, California, is not about plates or techniques, but about the products. The question has been, what is so special about the products? It has seven of the 10 most expensive species of seafood products in the world: geoduck, lobster, abalone, bluefin tuna, shrimp, sea cucumber, and sea urchin. Seven of the 10 most expensive seafood products in the world come out of these docks. What gives me joy is the rich variety of wines, the microclimates; it has incredible vegetables and wineries, and its spectacular ingredients.

SGLA: What will it take for Mexico to get even more respect for their cuisine internationally?

AC: For me as a Mexican cook, what's most important [are] the products. That’s the reason, we are here in Baja, California, but maybe the success right now with Mexican food is because of the Mexican chefs who are working together, [on] the same side. I’m talking about Mexican local products. I’m talking about the natural products, I’m talking about the local cuisine. We make local cuisine with a global vision. The goal is to take local food and and spread it around the world. We are creating local cuisine with a vision of world cuisine.

There was an incredible buzz about Aquiles's demo. He is from Tabasco where they are famous for their use of the pejelagarto, a pre-historic, amphibious fish. He prepared it camp-style: grilled pejelagarto with hearty, tortillas Tabasco-style, a salsa of chile piquin--tiny grenades of heat--also known as salsa de chile amashito, and a chocolate beverage made from cacao.

Salsa de chile amashito

Grilled Pejelagarto, tortillas tabasquenas, atole de cacao, and salsa de chile amashito.

Chef Aquiles Chavez has taken the pejelagarto to new heights of fame in Mexico. This symbol of pre-hispanic cookery puntuates what all the chefs at this congress are trying to achieve. They're spreading the beauty of Mexican cuisine through Mexican ingredients and techniques in a fearless manner. Stateside, non-Mexican chefs have attempted to present safe cuisine, mild-Mexican flavors to the American public. Well it looks like the pejelagarto might be coming to the US--Chef Aquiles plans to open a branch of his Lo in Houston, Texas. It will be called La Fisheria.

The only other restaurant run by a Mexican chef in the US has been Chef Javier Plascencia's Romesco in Bonita, CA. It seems as the chefs at this congress are putting their words into actions.

The themes that echoed throught the event were that the brotherhood of Mexican chefs are preserving their traditions, increasing their use of Mexican products, using the best ingredients, and striving to bring passion to their culinary creations. Ensenada represents the best Mexico has to offer in seafood, wine from the Valle de Guadalupe, and world class olive oil. Ensenada and Baja chefs are drawing the atttention of culinary giants, many of whom were present at the Ensenada Gastronomica. We ran into Oaxacan master Chef Alejandro Ruiz at the end of the day at Molina's Manzanilla, who informed us that he is now incorporating geoducks into his Oaxacan recipes. Chef Enrique Olvera is a frequent visitor to Ensenada as well as other chefs participating in the congress: Chef Javier Plascencia, Chef Antonio Livier, Chef Paulina Abascal, and Mexico's top wine maker, Hugo D' Acosta.

In the community of chefs, Ensenada and Baja are now mentioned alongside Oaxaca, Yucatan, Tabasco, D.F., and Michoacan when it comes to seeking out about inspiration for their Mexican cuisines. More than ever, Ensenada matters.

Ensenada Gastronomica 2011

1st Annual Baja Culinary Fest: October 5-9 in Tijuana, Ensenada, Rosarito, Puerto Nuevo, Mexicali, Tecate, and the Valle de Guadalupe

Today began the 1st Annual Baja Culinary Fest taking place in select venues throughout Ensenada,Mexicali, Rosarito,Tecate, Tijuana,and the Valle de Guadalupe. A local bounty of products and chefs will share the good news about one of the most exciting food destinations on the planet: Baja California.


Los Angeles based Chef John Sedlar(Rivera, Playa, and the creator of Modern Southwestern) and Baja Culinary Fest organizer, Chef Javier Plascencia(Mision 19,Cebicheria Erizo, Casa Plascencia, Villa Saverios, and Caesar's Restaurant) will be cooking a dinner together on Friday, October 7th at Mision 19.


Chef John Sedlar will also be joining rising Baja star, Chef Diego Hernandez and the new Valle de Guadalupe destination for Baja cuisine: Corazon de Tierra on Thursday, October 6th.


Baja legend, Chef Benito Molina of Manzanilla restaurant, Silvestre, and star of Benito y Solange on Utilisimo will be cooking at La Querencia on Friday night; he'll head up his own event at Manzanilla in Ensenada on Saturday, October 8th.


The big gun of Baja Med cuisine, Chef Miguel Angel Guerrero--Baja's ultimate hunter-gatherer--will lead a hunting expedition on Thursday, October 6th to bag some local game for a special dinner he will prepare for guests at this event. On Friday night(10/7), Chef Miguel will host a dinner at his original Baja Med shrine: La Querencia.


Real del Castillo cheese from Rancho Cortes.


Callo de hacha, Baja California scallops prepared by Chef Javier Plascencia.


Blue fin tuna from Ensenada on tostadas.


In addition to its wealth of local products, and leading innovative chefs, the fest will feature chefs from the US, Los Angeles based mixologists(Steve Livigni, Pablo Moix and Julian Cox), and Mexico's top chefs from throughout the country.

There will be tastings, food related activities, Baja cuisine education, all-star chef dinners, some of Mexico's greatest street vendors, and a grand event on Saturday at the Museo Trompo and the WTC in Tijuana.

For a complete list of events, participating chefs, and festival information go to the Baja Culinary Fest website.

1st Annual Baja Culinary Fest
October 5-9,2011
Ensenada,Mexicali, Rosarito,Tecate, Tijuana,and the Valle de Guadalupe

El Agave Gastro Pub, Ensenada,BC:Mezcal's Great Awakening

It seems mezcal has been on our minds these past few years. Las Perlas, LA's first mezcal and tequila bar opened, and I even attended two private events of mezcal brand ambassadors promoting their stories and spirits in 2010. Del Maguey has been leaping onto the shelves of LA's top bars, and Ilegal mezcal has been making a full court press around the Los Angeles scene. Mayahuel is all the rage in New York, and I recently visited Corazon de Maguey in the Coyoacan neighborhood of Mexico City, where I had also imbibed when it was O Mayahuel, owned by the Danzantes brand of mezcal.

Ensenada isn't the first place one thinks of when mezcal is mentioned. Fish tacos, Hussong's Cantina, the excellent Baja cuisine,tequila shots,Senor Frog's,the cruise ship crowd, but not mezcal. But in fact, many of Ensenada's chefs are Mezcal aficionados, and are great promoters of Oaxacan food and drink, incorporating the traditions into their own Baja cuisines.Manzanilla's Chef Benito Molina always has a small but superb selection of mezcals on his shelf. Baja Winemaker Hugo D'Acosta makes the Lucifer brand of mezcal at the Adobe Guadalupe vineyard, and Jair Tellez of Laja in the Valle de Guadalupe and Mero Toro in Mexico City has also ventured into mezcal.

One of the Baja chef's favorite Oaxacan spots was run by Salvador, a mezcal enthusiast and chef from Oaxaca. He was over at the beautiful beachfront property in El Sauzal now home to El Sarmiento before having some issues with the landlord. He relocated to the tourist zone in Ensenada this past year and opened El Agave Gastro Bar. You can always count on Chef Benito Molina, an occasional chowhound poster to give us the skinny on what's happening in Ensenada, and the Valle de Guadalupe.


Just down the street from those temple of amateur drunkedness, Hussong's Cantina and Senor Frog's, El Agave Gastro Bar is a world apart.Salvador brings bottles he finds in Oaxaca to his Ensenada mezcal bar, ones he's personally tasted and likes. Right away he was offering up samples and trying to gently convert me into a mezcalero. I could sense he cares that the customer has a memorable first experience with mezcal. "No worries, I don't need to try anything", I said. "I'm here to drink."

The decor and vibe is very hip. It would fit in just fine with the Los Angeles downtown bar scene. He carries around 30 mezcals, flavored cream of mexcals(something for the ladies),some tequilas, a full bar, and some local beers.The problem with mezcal bars in Mexico is that Mexicans don't drink mezcal.In Tijuana's La Mezcalera mezcal bar, Dos Equis beer is the beverage of choice. Still, Salvador is a purist, he'll do what it takes to survive these tough times in Baja, but he's keeping it real.

A beer company hit him up to stock their product, he accepted, but refused their propaganda, and said their promotional refigerator emblazoned with the company's logo would go in the back."It's a fridge", he stated, "not a commercial."They accepted, which is rare these days.


He brought out some orange slices and worm salt out to cleanse my palate in between tastes of mezcal,a Oaxacan practice.I asked him what he thought of Del Maguey and Ilegal.He said, "what are those?" You know, I never was sold on Del Maguey, and found the Ilegal mezcal pitch to be disingenuous.These bottles pale in comparison to the mezcals I've tried in Mexico City, and in Baja. They don't elicit the same pleasure, and ultimately conflict with the inflexible position of the true mezcalero.

It occured to me that these were commercial products, and not what is drunk in Oaxaca. Oaxacans paying those high prices for Del Maguey, a mezcal company started by an American? Mezcal is still a delectation that must be sought out by us romantics, us sensualists.


Salvador even makes his own infusions. He gets a mezcal from a distiller he knows and brings it back to create interesting impressions of mezcal.


A sweet,and pink tinted mezcal made from the natural red dye of the cochineal bug, called grana cachanilla was a rose colored dream. The cochineal was recently removed as an ingredient in Campari, many lover's of the Italian apertif say it's lost its flavor. The addition of grana cachanilla definitely did dulcify and smooth out this beverage.This could be a hit!


The house made pechuga, with intense flavors being added by the presence of a chicken breast in the bottle. Normally this is done in the distillation process, but Salvador is doing his pechuga old school.


Mezcal El Diablito is a beautiful joven, or young mezcal, sexy fruit flavors, and earthen hints on the back end.


A more rare variety of the many agaves used to make mezcal, tobala, was featured in the Ollas de Barro mezcal. This is pure Oaxacan elegance.

Although mezcal is produced in other states, Salvador sticks to what he knows, the mezcals of Oaxaca.He is sure to have mezcals made from various agaves, the succulents responsible for this esteemed spirit.


Salvador, my generous host, brought out some quesillo, Oaxacan cheese to nosh on. His food is traditional with a contemporary edge. I also learned on this quiet night hanging out in El Agave that mezcal is a much more food friendly drink than tequila.


Oaxacans are as proud of their grasshoppers as they are their cheese.Some tacos of the salty chapulines are not to be missed, with a little Oaxacan string cheese, and a green salsa.


"Would you like to try my moles?", Salvador beamed. I had just finished a fish taco run earlier in the day and warned him I wasn't ready for anything heavy. He brought out his Oaxacan mole negro and mole rojo on a couple of tortillas with some string cheese. "These are great!", I yelled. When I asked about his cooking he said that he learned by the lash. His grandmother smacked him upside the head everytime he messed up. "Thwack!More salt!!" "Bam!You toasted the chilis too long!!!" He knew he had it right when he ducked and there came no blow. With a stern face, his grandmother nodded,"finally, you did something right."

Salvador and his wife are preparing great food to pair with these fine mezcals. What they are doing here might be ahead of the heavy brand influence in the mezcal bars of Mexico City and the US.

Mezcal pitch men always go on and on about the stubborn traditions of mezcal which are so much more pure than those in tequila country, yet, they are representing a corporate brand. Greater than any manufactured tale, or claims of artisinal production, you can count on Salvador to sort the wheat from the chaff.

This is the best mezcal bar I've been to in Mexico or the US. This is some of the best Oaxacan food I've encountered, and it is just as progressive as its contemporary Baja peers. So, put down that green bottle, and come experience mezcal's Great Awakening right in the center of Ensenada's tourist zone.

El Agave Gastro Bar
Av. Ruiz, 230-A(down the street from Hussong's)
Ensenada, BC
from the US 011-52(646)175-7467

The Ultimate Guide to the Best Fish Tacos in Ensenada : Baja California Dreamin' About Tacos de Pescado Estilo Baja

The Baja fish taco is adored in the Californias and beyond. It's required eating in Ensenada by guys on fishing trips, the three day cruise ship crowd, overnighters , Baja wine country visitors, frat boys, cholos, girl's weekend outings, and those kindred souls of mine seeking out the riches of Baja cuisine, culture, wine, and lifestyle.

It's quite a lovely proposition, a tempura batter fried filet of dogfish, angel shark, mako shark, or a variety of other firm white fish in a warm tortilla with fresh and pickled vegetables,salsa, crema agria(mayo with 2% milk), maybe some guacamole salsa?

It is a popular belief that Japanese fishermen brought tempura technique to Baja, which they acquired from the Portuguese, but make no such careless culinary revisionism, the Baja fish taco,or taco de pescado, is a 100% Mexican creation. All cuisines evolve from outside influences, and no cuisine is pure. Why isn't Italian cuisine called a fusion when it relies on tomatoes from the Americas, and pasta from Asia? Is Italian really Chinese-Mexican?No, it's Italian. Cuisine is the expression of a culture or people, not cooking devices, techniques, or ingredients.

These fish tacos are available all throughout the Baja peninsula, from Tijuana to Cabo, but Ensenada is the epicenter, and considered the birthplace of this iconic food. It's one of the first things one thinks of when planning a trip to Baja. "Fish tacos, dude!"(high fives)

Surprisingly, there hasn't been a thorough investigation of Ensenada's fish taco stands, with just a handful of places receiving any mention. Chris Cognac hit up Puesto El Fenix and Don Zefe in November of 2006, relying on predictable sources, El Fenix always comes up, and many would consider it the best. Don Zefe rated very poorly on my run, one of the worst,and not worth revisiting. Others have written about El Fenix, but didn't even go to the stand, which is the best of the two El Fenix fish taco establishments, just a block away from each other.

Over the course of four years with multiple visits to a total of ten stands, I have compiled a Baja fish taco guide that ranges from the tourist trap stalls next to the Black Market(fish market) to what I call the Holy Trinity of Ensenada fish tacos. This list focuses on the traditional stands, or shacks that serve fish and shrimp tacos, although two taquerias are included due to their reputations. Fish tacos are found everywhere in Ensenada, restaurants, cafes, stands, and taquerias, but they are done best in a stand using a comal de acero, a stainless steel disc shaped comal with a concave well for frying. All ten locations listed here use the comal de acero, use a similar type of corn tortilla, and have the same basic condiments.

I considered the quality of the fish, cooking technique, condiments, and overall flavor. The stands are ranked in order from least to greatest. This is not a top ten list, but an ordering of the range of fish taco options and the most well known stands to tourists and locals.

For most short stays in Ensenada, a fish taco at the various stalls next to the fish market is your first encounter with this Baja temptation. It was the same for me a decade ago. The barkers stand outside and yell for you to come to their stand, and insist that they are the best.

#10-Mariscos El Norteno
Located across from the Black Market


These places are identical, all stocking the same tarros(large beer glasses) filled with the same salsas and condiments and covered in plastic. So, I randomly selected Mariscos El Norteno.


It's certainly a turn off when everybody has the same stuff. These glasses actually depress me.

The weako de gallo looked awful, a medley of out of season fruit and vegetables devoid of color or nutrition.

The taco itself was compromised by the poor condiments, a lack of flavor that even salt couldn't revive. The cooking was good, a crunchy outside, and a token of tenderness, but a lack of seasoning on batter and fish.

Curvina was used, a type of croaker fish, which allows El Norteno to offer this taco for $10MXP, about $.86USD, but it's just not the right fish for the Baja fish taco.

The other nuisance at the stalls is the smell of fish runoff from the market and the nearby docks. One time, many years ago, a fetid odor accompanied my every bite, jamming my senses with cursed air. Well, I hadn't returned until I decided to do this report, so, don't say I never did anything for you. It's a lame fish taco with a side of ass.

Even without the smell, I wouldn't recommend any of the stalls near the fish market. Let the amateurs have at these. You're quest lies elsewhere.

#9-Tacos Corona

just north of Juarez on Espinoza

Tacos Corona, while being better than a Back Market experience, falls in the category of below average. Like most of the stands, it is a family run operation, mothers and daughters, cousins, and grandmothers. They've been around for 40 years, and the current family member that owns the stand has had this place for 17 years.

All of the stands use their oil a couple of times, which I don't mind. A seasoned oil of lard, yes, all these tacos are cooked in lard. But, it must be strained and filtered, and changed when needed.

While the condiments were acceptable here.....

the batter was very dark, not the golden brown crispy outside you crave. The flavor and texture damaging bits were visibly floating around the comal, resulting in a coarse, oily crust.

Mako shark was used, a quality fish, but the flavor was an upfront saltiness with no substance on the back end. The problem here is in the frying.

#8-Tacos Don Zefe

on the corner of Riveroll and Mutualismo

Tacos Don Zefe is a taqueria, and one of the well known destinations thanks to a story by Chris Cognac.

There's a very pleasant seating area, and a formal stand that seems more California than Baja, like a hot dog stand.

The taco was made with angelito, Angel Shark, on a fresh tortilla. It's served traditionally, a warmed tortilla with the fried fish is given to the customer to indulge his/her inner taquero. Standard condiments are available, nothing that stands out though.

The seasoning is rather dull here, and a few bites leaves you wanting less, as in why did I order this. Also, the frying technique needs to improve in order for this stand to hang with the big boys.

#7-Tacos "Nemo"
on the corner of 6th and Gastellum

Like most of the stands here, Tacos Nemo is a family run joint. They've got a cute name and mascot. Can you say copyright infringement?

There appears to be a pattern here. Second tier fish taco stands use the less expensive angelito. There's no difference in price, so I think angelito, a slighty more affordable fish perhaps allows for a greater profit margin.

Only slightly better than Don Zefe's, Tacos Nemo also suffers from the same deficits in flavor, and fry technique. Finding Nemo? Nah, I don't think so.

#6-Tacos Lulu
on the corner of Juarez and Floresta

Oh how I wanted to love Tacos Lulu. A family run stand, mother and daughter working alongside another family member. A family recipe, that luxurious dogfish, and just a great group of people.

This is a much more engaging fish taco than the previous ones, but just didn't inspire. They have some friendly regular customers, as I'm sure all these stands enjoy.

The balance of crispy outside, tender inside, and seasoning here are so crucial to the fish taco. This was clearly a superior taco to numbers 10 through 7, but the only achievment here is mediocrity.

#5-Tacos Castillo
On the corner of Juarez and Castillo

The big surprise of all the places I went to was Tacos Castillo, a stand I had never heard of anywhere.

This is a tasty fish taco, well seasoned, and the frying here is competent. The condiments here were solid, and a fine roasted chiles salsa added a little character.

This is the kind of stand that would be outstanding here in Los Angeles, if they could work out the sourcing issues, of course. This stand uses angelito.

#4-Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix

on the corner of Espinosa and 6th

Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix is the stand everyone talks about. It is more inviting than the original down the street because it has seating, and a taqueria style structure.

The frying here is consistent and expert. This is the benchmark fish taco in Ensenada, that solid workhorse that always brings it.

Fine condiments, and just a brilliant red and a tangy green pair of salsas allow for a pure Baja fish taco expression. Cazon, of course, is used at Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix.

But, Puesto El Fenix is better than Mi Ranchito El Fenix.

And now for the fish taco Holy Trinity. These stands are all worthy of your attention, and a crawl of these three traditional stands should be included in your Ensenada itinerary along with falling off the bar drunk and hitting your face on the floor boards of Hussong's Cantina, and getting your name engraved on a grain of rice. Who does that?

#3-Tacos La Floresta
on the corner of Floresta and Juarez

Tacos La Floresta is a no name stand located on Av. Floresta . It is truly a shacky shack. When I arrived there was a flock of hungry fish taco fiends gathered 'round.

This is excellence, perfect frying of the rare mako shark. The owner Rica, is a sweet lady, who sweetly smiles and calmy directs her crew as she facilely cranks out stellar fish tacos. The flavors are subtle, but that crust, and clean fish flavor meld into a refined cooperation of textures and savors. Crunchy, hot, cold,tender, fruity, creamy, and wet satisfaction.

All products used to finish your tacos are exceptional.

These are the kind of fish tacos that Baja dreams are made of. Fish taco worshippers concentrate about this stand eating in silence, only intermittent conversation interrupts the feeding frenzy of shark eating man!

#2-Puesto Fenix

the corner of Juarez and Espinosa

Puesto Fenix would be my last stop on this fish taco odyssey. Having found three gems, I took time out to celebrate, by ordering another fish taco, carefree, sans camera. I just kicked back and actually felt a huge burden had been lifted off of my shoulders. OK, not really.

I hung out for awhile at the end of the fish taco portion of the day. By 5pm, most fish taco stands are giving way to the night time tacos, carne asada, al pastor, or suadero.

When I asked the team at Puesto Fenix what kind of fish they used, a very serious gentleman responded," filete de cazon." I like that. Yes, give it its proper due, dogfish filet homes!

Here, the same green salsa from Mi Ranchito El Fenix, but the difference between the small chain in taste is substantial.
This taco is more boldly flavored, a noteworthy taco. If this stand is why you're praising El Fenix, then you are justified, if not, just walk one block north on Av. Espinosa and your perspective shall improve by leaps and bounds. I never saw the reason in plugging El Fenix until I stopped here.

As all of the top three stands, an expert balance of all the components of cooking, quality of ingredients,and condiments is key. While I love Tacos Floresta and could easily spend an afternoon there, Puesto Fenix has a more robust flavor in the batter.

#1-Fish Tacos Ensenada
on the corner of Juarez and Gastellum

My number one fish taco stand in Ensenada has been close to my heart for many years. It's definitely not because of the name, Fish Tacos Ensenada. I was reluctant to share this stand back in my chowhound days, always referring people to Mi Ranchito El Fenix. When I brought a large group of bloggers, chefs, restaurateurs and writers down in the summer of 2009, we went to Mi Ranchito El Fenix. I hadn't finished putting my favorite stand to the Pepsi challenge.

I only shared this place with small groups, and close friends. A recent e-mail from a reader inspired me to finish this run down, so I could without hesitation, share this special stand.

The stand is, well, of course, a family run operation. A woman from El Salvador moved to Ensenada, got married and in time opened a fish taco stand with her husband. These days, Yasmin, the cute young lady pictured here, works alongside her sisters, and their mom.

This is the only stand that has such a mob of killer salsas. Everything from standard creations to the creative little numbers crafted by the owner and her daughters. The salsas are always changing, colorful, and vibrant.

The freshly fried cazon here is a sight to behold. Fish Tacos Ensenada is oldschool, just a tortilla with a comely piece of plump fish are given to the lucky diners. As much as you want to race to condiment while the fish is at its peak, you are likely to give this baby the once over, just for a second though.

They've got everything here:fresh cabbage, pickled cabbage, six to eight salsas, toasted chile de arbol, mayo, and crema agria. Consistently, the fish sings with virtuosity. I would drive here just for a fish taco, and I have.

Like Puesto Fenix, the seasoning here in upfront, the cooking is sublime, but the difference is in the condiments, and the overall flavor of this fish taco. It's good enough to make a frat boy moon his buddies and lose himself in base hyperbole. "Oh my god, dude, this taco is like.....SO awesome."

It's the end of a day glorious day tasting wine in the Valle de Guadalupe, and I appoach Highway 1. Do I head north, or do I head into town? Perhaps, just one taco before I hit the road. I'm not really hungry, but my craving can't be denied.

Fish tacos, or tacos de pescado, as they are known in Mexico, are a universal pleasure. You're not wrong to want to hit up the best while in town. Your expectations are high, so allow me to take you to the promised land of milk and honey. Set your sights on my beloved Fish Tacos Ensenada, the famed Puesto Fenix, and the local favorite Tacos La Floresta, and experience the best fish tacos Ensenada has to offer.

Ensenada, B.C., Mexico