The Bunda- crochet pattern

The Bunda is what you get when you simply can not decide if you're making a panda or a bunny.
This little stuffie is a bit bigger than what I usually make because it has an important difference.

It has a music box in it! The music boxes I use are 18 notes and completely encased in plastic, made by Sankyo. They can be found at a lot of hobby stores, but I got mine from CRSPinner's Variety Store on Ebay because she had the specific song* I most wanted. She has a great selection of songs and they are listed alphabetically.

The Amazing Turnip Girl helped me with the design. She's the one who decided it should be one of my limbless almost peg like designs, and that it should absolutely have big felt circles around the eyes.

You will need:

• Ecru or white worsted weight yarn- I used Peaches and Cream Ecru (1 ball)
• Black or if you like, a different color!  (1 ball)
• Size G hook, if you work loose, use a size F instead
• Yarn needle
• Stuffing
• Weighted stuffing of some sort, some people use plastic pellets. I use high density plastic BB pellets
• scrap of fabric about 3x4 inches
• sewing needle
• sewing thread- black or to match your contrast color
• black felt or felt to match your contrast color
• 2 safety eyes or buttons
• ribbon (optional)
• music box (optional)

Start by hand sewing a little pocket to hold the pellets with the scrap of fabric. I just used 2 rows of a running stitch to make mine. That will keep the pellets in one place inside the stuffing, it can be very plain sewing because it's going to be hidden. I like high density plastic BB pellets because they are very smooth and rounded but they can also be expensive. Other people use plastic pellets that are made for stuffing, they weigh less by volume. One friend uses snippets off of plastic canvas projects, and I've even heard of people using aquarium rocks. Just something that's going to be a little heavy, and that's safe if it gets wet.

Cut 2 eyes out of the felt. This pattern can be printed at 100 dpi, or you can do it by eye to make two rounded tear drop shapes that are about 1.5 inches tall by 1.25 inches wide.

ch= chain

st= stitch

sl st= slip stitch

sc= single crochet

dec sc= insert hook in first stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, insert hook in second stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, and pull through the 3  loops on the hook. 

Repeat ** means repeat what is between the asterisks. 

American terminology

Ears- Make 2:

With black yarn

Magic ring or chain 2

Round 1: Sc 6 times in ring, sl st to join.

Round 2: Ch 1 (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout) sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sl st to join.

Round 3: ch 1,  2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st,  ch 1 and skip ch 1 loop, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, sl st to join

Round 4: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, ch 1, skip ch 1 loop, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sl st to join.

Round 5: ch 1, 2 sc in first st,  sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, skip ch 1 loop, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, sl st to join.

Rounds 6-15: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 6 stitches, ch 1, skip ch 1 loop, sc in next 7 stitches, ch 1, sl st to join

Round 16: ch 1, dec sc over first and second stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, dec sc over next 2 sts, ch 1, skip ch 1 loop, dec sc over next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts, ch 1, sl sto to join.

Round 17-18: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, ch 1, skip ch 1 loop, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sl st to join.

Break off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing it to the head. Fold ear in half at base and stitch closed to create a taper.

Head:

With white yarn

Magic ring or ch 2

Round 1: sc 6 times in ring, sl st to join (6 sts)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 2 sc in each st after, sl st to join. (12 sts)

Round 3: ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join. (18 sts)

Round 4: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Round 5: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Round 6: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (30 sts)

Round 7: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (36 sts)

Round 8: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st to join (36 sts)

Round 9: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st*, sl st to join (42 sts)

Round 10-14: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st to join (42 sts)

Round 15: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts, *sc in next 5 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (36 sts)

- While the hole is still big enough, it's time to sew on the ears and place the eyes. The ears are sewn into place 5 rows from the center top, one on each side. They need to be sewn at the base, then slightly up the side facing the center to stand up. The image below shows the base in red and the stitching on the side in green. Cut a small hole in the center of each felt circle, and push the safety eye through that, then into the face on round 14 between 2 stitches. The other eye on mine is 10 stitches away. Don't sew down the circles yet!

Round 16: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts, *sc in next 4 sts, dec sec over next 2 sts*, sl st to join (30 sts)

Round 17: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (30 sts)

Round 18: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Round 19: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next st, dec sc over next 2 sts, *sc in next 2 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join. (18 sts)

Round 20: ch 1, sc in first st, dec over next 2 sts, *sc in next st, dec sc over next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (12 sts)

Break off yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. Using the thread and needle, stitch the felt into place.

Body:

The music box comes in 2 pieces, the box itself, with a winder taped to it. The winder screws into place and it's easy to tell when your done screwing it in because then you're winding it up! 

Ch 2 or make a magic ring

With black yarn-

Round 1: 6 sc in ring, sl st to join

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to join (12 sts)

Round 3: ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* repeat ** around, sl st to join (18 sts)

Round 4: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat ** around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Round 5: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat ** around, sl st to join (30 sts)

Round 6-9: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join (30 sts)

Switch to white yarn

Round 9-10: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join (30 sts)

Round 11: If you are using a music box- otherwise work as for round 9. Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 25 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st, sc in next 3 sts, sl st to join- mark ch 1 loop with a scrap of yarn(30 sts)

Round 12-14:  ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join (30 sts)

Switch to black

Round 15: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join (30 sts)

Place the music box by putting the key through the chain 1 loop, and then putting the music box into the body, line up the key hole with the key and screw the key into place until it starts winding the music box. Put the plastic pellet bag in the other side of the body to keep the weight even. 

Round 16: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Round 17: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Round 18: ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next st, dec sc over next 2 sts, *sc in next 2 sts, dec sc over next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (18 sts)

Round 19: ch 1, sc in first st, dec sc over next 2 sts, *sc in next st, dec sc over next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join. 

Round 20: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join, break off yarn.

Stuff the head and body firmly, and pack stuffing around the edges of the music box to round it out some. Use a dowel, back end of a crochet hook or a knitting needle to stuff it around and between the pellet bag and music box. Stitch head to body, adding in more stuffing before doing the last couple of stitches. Tie off securely and pull all ends to the inside of the Bunda. If you pull it tight, then cut close, when you let go, the yarn end disappears into the toy. If the head is still a little floppy, tying a ribbon around the neck will help.

Because of the weighting, this does stand up well even with the over sized head. 

* The song is You and Me Against the World, which was one my mom used to sing to me. I'm making a second Bunda with the same song so my kids each have one to someday share with their children.

 

Swirly Heart to color

Swirly coloring pages are always fun to draw, and with Valentine's Day coming up, I thought you might like a heart to color! Click on the image for a larger version to print. Transparent PNG format.

Also, I did a little Kindle booklet with 4 Amigurumi patterns. 3 of them have been previously posted for free on my sites, the 4th is a little elephant that's always been a for sale pattern, so the booklet is priced at the same cost as the elephant pattern on Ravelry.

Little Pumpkin Crochet Pattern

This cute diminutive pumpkin gets it's shaping from using different stitches.

I was going to use black safety eyes, but decided I really loved the scale of the buttons, which came from my button stash.

You will need :
small amounts of orange and green worsted weight yarn- I used Peaches and Creme Bright Orange and Bright Lime
Size F hook
Scissors
Yarn needle
Eyes- I used buttons.
Stuffing

ch= chain
sc=single crochet
hdc= half double crochet
dc- double crochet
st or sts= stitch or stitches
sl st= slip stitch

Instead of working in rounds, the body of the pumpkin is worked flat then seamed. The rows are worked alternately in the front and back loops of the stitches to create the ridges.

Chain 13 loosely
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 st, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 2: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 3: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 4: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 5: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 6: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 7: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 8: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 9: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 10: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 11: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 12: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 13: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 14: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Break off leaving long tail to sew the piece.

Put eyes in place on different rows lined up on the dcs.

Stitch seam along the 12 stitch length making a tube that's tapered on both ends. Pass needle and thread through the sc crochets on one end, and gather them tightly to close the bottom. Keep needle on yarn. Stuff the pumpkin and pass the needle and thread through the stuffing, pull it just a little in and knot, then gather the stitches on top. Pull tight and tie off securely.

Stem:
With the green yarn, chain 2.
Round 1: 6 sc in first ch, sl st to first sc to join.
Round 2-4: ch 1 tightly, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join.
Break off leaving a tail. Weave tail through last stitches and pull tight, pass the needle and thread through the pumpkin to the bottom, go around a stitch, and pass back up through the top, knot securely in the bottom of the stem and weave end in.

So very quick and easy. I hope you enjoy this project!

Elephant Box- new size!

This box takes 2 sheets of cardstock and measures 3 inches wide by 4 inches tall by 3 inches deep. It's just the right size for this little elephant!

You can get the crocheted elephant pattern either from Ravelry or from my Etsy shop for 2.00. The blank templates is available from my Etsy shop for 1.60.

The cute box is available here for free! Click on the images for the full sized versions, print at 100 ppi.

I hope you like this as much as I enjoyed making it. The elephant was a lot of fun to draw. 

Little Mouse Crochet Pattern

I've been working on a series of tiny amigurumi for a project my daughter and I are doing together. The basic body will be the same on all of them with different ears and such to make animals of them, and I'll do an e-book when I'm done making them. The elephant and bunny are about 3 inches tall.

The mouse was just for fun. It works up very fast and it's about 6 inches long from the tip of it's nose to the end of it's tail. More than half that length is tail.

In these patterns, the rounds are joined, not worked in a spiral.

Here's the pattern for the mouse!
Using worsted weight cotton yarn and a size F hook
Decreases are worked by slipping a hook into one stitch, yarn over and pull the loop through just the stitch you're working in, leaving 2 loops on the hook instead of finishing the sc, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.
Magic loop or chain 2
Round 1: 4 sc in first ch or loop, slip stitch to join
Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st. Slip stitch to join (6 sts)
Round 3: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around, sl st to join
Round 4: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch) 2 sc in first st,  sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st to join (8 sts)
Round 5: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around, sl st to join
Put safety eyes in round 4
Round 6: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around, sl st to join
Round 7: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around, sl st to join
Stuff firmly
Round 8: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch) work a decrease in each stitch around (4 sts), sl st to join
chain 20 then sl st back up the chain. Break yarn off and weave end through the last round of 4 stitches.

Ears-
Ch 2 or magic loop
6 sc in first ch or loop, sl st to join, break off yarn and sew them on the mouse behind the eyes.

This is the background I used for the photo. I used my paper cutter to slice off the margins and taped them together. The trees are just cut out with the bottoms folded at a 90° angle. Click on the images for the 100 ppi printable versions.