At the Pond: Swimming at the Hampstead Ladies' Pool (Daunt Books, 2019)

Photo from CultureFly.co.uk 

 

I found this small volume of 14 essays utterly intriguing. 

Hampstead Heath in London contains three swimming ponds (and others for angling, model-boating etc; created when the Fleet River was damned in the 17th and 18th centuries as reservoirs for water supply to Hampstead and Highgate). The swimming ponds are one for women, one for men and one mixed. 

The writers who contributed include some well-knon, Like Margaret Drabble and Esther Freud, some not so well-known. It is divided into 4 sections, Winter, Spring, Summer, Autumn. Some swim year-round, some are summer-only. 

The Pond as it is known is legendary amongst certain Londoners. It is "wild swimming" in a huge city ... many describe the wildlife and the vegetation...moorhens, ducks, snakes, reeds and grasses etc. The temperature is never what I would call warm, and in winter there can be ice, and of course snow on the ground. There seems to be several hundred hearty souls who do swim year round. However, there also seems to be a sort of reverence, an elitist aura around them. One writer says "they know the lifeguards". 

Also intriguing are some of the "rules" and customs ... eg there can only be a certain ratio of swimmers to lifeguards, so on a hot summer's day you may have to wait to drop in down the metal railing. Imagine trying to impose that at one of Sydney's (un-lifeguarded) ocean pools!) 

Hampstead and Highgate are high-end London suburbs, nowadays often populated by the very wealthy, though they weren't always - they were arty and bohemian in the past. 

I couldn't help comparing the Pond's mores with those at Sydney's McIvers Baths - the Ladies' Pool at Coogee. Some seem similar - the older coterie of "gatekeepers", sticking within your own groups, the basic changerooms, topless sunbaking, but the convivility in the water, and the style of swimming seems a little more open at McIvers. As well, apart from a couple of essayists with southeast Asian heritage, there is know mention of it as a refuge for diverse cultural groups like Muslim women or nuns or others who want to swim in a women-only environment. 

There was a major controversy a couple of years ago, when the London Corporation, which manages the Pond said it was ok for transitioning or transitioned male to female Transgender users to officially use the pool (they had been anyway), with backlash from some. That seems to have settled down now. 

It probably helps to be a swimmer to enjoy the book, but I think it's also interesting in broader cultural terms as a slice of London life.

Here's the page of the Kenwood Ladies Pond Association, a voluntary group of women which cares about the Pond. There's new and info about current campaigns. There is a video called "City Swimmers" in the Gallery.

A story about closure due to sewerage leaks, and a protest against compulsory charges.

Here's some reviews of the book: 

By Natalie Xenos - click here.

By Rebecca Armstrong - click here.

You can easily search for more online. 

Britannia Park, near Warburton, Victoria

Britannia Park in the Yarra Valley, Victoria, is a Girl Guides owned property. I went to some camps there when I was in Brownies, when we lived in Melbourne in the 1960s. Several years later (about 1976) I visited and discovered that they had built a pretty nifty swimming pool. 

I did a search today and found it referred to as "an old swimming pool full of goldfish....not for people to swim in any more."

Sally and Darelle's Swimming Adventures: Giles Baths, Coogee 1 December 2016

Coogee Beach in the background. 

The baths open to the sea at the southern side, and the western (facing the beach)

History (from Randwick City Council)

This is a natural rock pool, known as the "Bogey hole" which was used by male bathers in the nineteenth century.

The baths can be rough during strong surf conditions and Lifeguards are often kept busy with first aid for bumps, cuts and bruises. [nb and not so rough as you will see!]

The Giles Gym and baths was built in 1928 and under the management of Mr Oscar Giles, the health centre and hot baths became the progressive fitness venue of the time. They offered

electricity treatments, hydrotherapy and hot sea baths as medical treatments. One of the more bizarre treatments available was the sweat boxes. The boxes were heated by light bulbs on the inside and only had enough room for someone's head to stick out. The heat generated would aid in weight loss, allegedly [more like dehydration!]. 

Separate facilities were provided for both genders but the ocean pool and nude bathing was for men only.

Mr O.E. Giles proved remarkably successful with his weight-reducing massage course. Sportsmen, racing identities, criminals, the constabulary and well known politicians all mixed amiably at Giles baths. Sam Inglis was a well-known patron who regularly taught young boys to swim and box. In honour of his service a memorial sun dial was erected. 

In 1975 Messer's O'Neill, Motta and Stevens leased the premises until 1998. They redeveloped the building and added squash courts but retained the name Giles Baths. 

After 1998 the building was left in disrepair and in the interest of public safety the building was demolished in 2000. All that remains is the original portico entry and sections of the wall.

The steps down the cliff face remind me of North Curl Curl. Handrails and fences have recently been refurbished. There's not a lot of sitting or resting space. Fortunately it wasn't very busy during our visit. 

From the bottom of the steps looking northeast - magnificent Sydney sandstone. 

Getting in. The bottom step was very slippery, and being a bit balance-challenged can be a hazard. Beyond the step is a fairly wide rock platform, which makes it quite shallow from the cliffside out. 

and she's off! 

Of course, groups of boys always like jumping off rocks into water. 

While the sea wasn't particularly rough today, there were quite a few waves come into the pool, and you did have to watch out - easy to be buffetted towards the cliff. 

Randwick Council said lifeguards at the beach are kept busy treating cuts and bruises in high seas. Darelle didn't seek attention for her injury. NB The pool itself doesn't have a lifeguard - the nearest were at the beach.  

Entrance to the baths is through Dunningham Parkat the northern end of Coogee Beach. You can see the baths outlet where the rocks are just under the cliff.The entrance to the baths is the archway on the cliff above.

Coogee Beach from Dunningham Park

Dunningham Park seemed popular with mothers and babies' groups. We had coffee at an unpretentious cafe in the background (that's Darelle in pink headed there.)

Coogee Beach

Coogee Beach with the Pavilion in the background.
Wikipedia: The Coogee Aquarium and Swimming Baths were officially opened on 23 December 1887. The Palace included an indoor Swimming pool (25 x 10 meters), an aquarium featuring the tiger shark from the famous shark arm murder case, a Great Hall that could be used as a roller skating rink, Canadian toboggan ran down the hillside for over 70 meters, a herd of 14 donkeys to ride as well as swings, whirligig's rocking horses, toy boats, aviaries, flower beds, bandstand and an open-air bar.

In June 1945, a strong storm caused the large dome to collapse. In 1987 the Coogee Palace and Dome was re-built and converted to restaurants and bars, known both as The Beach Palace Hotel and The Aquarium. In August 2014 the building re-opened as the Coogee Pavilion, owned by prominent Sydney hospitality company, Merivale (director Justin Hemmes). 

Coogee Aquarium and Swimming Baths - Dictionary of Sydney. 

Peaceful scene through the trees of Dunningham Park

The toilets are clean, smell fresh, have no soap, and are an eyesore plonked in the park. 

Shower

The entrance is what is left of the Giles Baths and Gym

In January 2003, a local claimed to have seen an apparition of the Virgin Mary at the fence overlooking Coogee Beach. Thousands lined up to witness it (see link below) There have been numerous claims of sightings since. The local parish priest said that while he felt it was good some people were finding peace there, he didn't believe it was anything other than an optical illusion. Some locals call it "Our Lady of the Fence Post" or "Rail Mary". A local man tends the shrine. 

The Catholic News, wherein local priest has his say.

The fathers, the sun and the holy post - Sydney Morning Herald report.

The water was so perfect

Marine life which may be seen in the baths

Looking north along that wonderful Sydney sandstone coastline, towards Clovelly.

Memorial to the victims of the 2002 Bali bombing. Several were residents in the local area, and six were members of a local Rugby football club, the Coogee Dolphins.  There's another memorial plaque inside the baths entrance gateway. 

A great spot for reading

Get your heads out of your devices and look up at the beauty before you, kids! 

These trees were in flower. I don't know what they are. Anyone? 

More links:

Removal of 30 tonne rock from pool November 2016

Dictionary of Sydney - Coogee

Dictionary of Sydney - Coogee Aquarium and Swimming Baths

Wikipedia on Coogee

Darelle and Sally's Swimming Adventures - Cronulla Ocean Pools. 8 Nov 2016

This pool opened in 1932. Like so many of the NSW coastal rock pools, a product of Great Depression public works schemes. It was a training facility for local lifesavers.
The pool is 50m in length.

Two "slack molls" 45 years later!

Cronulla - home of PubertyBlues, but for these two mature "slack molls", we had no boys for whom to collect chiko rolls from the North Cronulla Surf Lifesaving Club kiosk. In fact, I checked the menu, and there were no chiko rolls! So we settled in for a flat white. We weren't going surfing, thought we did have a look at the results chart for the weekend's Sydney International Women's Pro surfing event. Silvana Lima from Brazil defeated Newcastle, Australia's Philippa Anderson.

The surf club is also the nearest (250m or so walk) change and toilet facility.

Forgot to charge my camera battery, so the closest the pics came was the weed covered, and fairly slippery metal steps. But, yes, we got in, and swam. It was a case of "beautiful once you get in". And it was. 

This pool has a sandy bottom, the water was really clear. It's not very deep. Apparently it gets filled up a bit much with sane from time to time (see article below) 

Pretty much a case of leave your stuff on the rocks....we left the beach chairs in the car, and it was a long way down to the sandstone rock platform into which the pool is built. We repaired to a nearby park-like bench after our swim. 

There is an open-air rinse-off shower on the rocks. 

There are two pools along the walkway between Cronulla and North Cronulla. We swam in tis one. This is looking south towards Cronulla.

A school group arrived as we were leaving

We were both pretty captivated by the Hokusai-like wave on the rubbish bin

The second pool is built down into the rock rather than above. It was a bit of a choppier proposition today. 

Along the Esplanade, Cronulla is a land of residential flats (well, now apartments). Older style 2 and 3 storey red and blonde brick walkups are being replaced by larger concrete and glass developments. This staircase had been propped up by  a brick pillar. We were pleased to see that access is now barred. 

There's supposed to be an upgrade to the pool happening between April and August this year, including non-slip and disabled access. I didn't notice today that that had happened. Click here. 

There are other ocean pools in Cronulla - at Shelley Park and Oak Park 

Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt and swimming: Val Kill

Franklin R partook in swimming therapy to help ameliorate the effects of his polio. He used to spend time at the Merriman Inn in Warm Springs in Georgia, where he swam in the natural spring water. In 1926 he bought the property and founded a therapy centre, which still exists. FDR died at Warm Springs. 

Meanwhile, at her property at Hyde Park, New York, Eleanor built a pool. It was a favourite family gathering place. There is home 16mm film footage recording the Roosevelts and friends and guests swimming there. One of the guests was Winston Churchill. 
In the filmed fictionalised account of the royal visit of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth (Hyde Park on Hudson) KGVI (Samuel West) is depicted swimming there with FDR (Bill Murray).

A project is underway to restore the pool. When we visited it was covered by boards (see photos below)

Eleanor Roosevelt at the Val-Kill pool.

Val-Kill pool, Summer 1940. FDR, Missy Le Hand and Eleanor R. From https://fdrlibrary.wordpress.com/tag/val-kill/

Eleanor on the lawn by the Val-Kill pool, Summer 1959. Photo by Keith M. Taylor. From https://fdrlibrary.wordpress.com/tag/val-kill/

Eleanor's swimsuit. From https://fdrlibrary.wordpress.com/tag/val-kill/

How the pool looked on Sep 15, 2013 when we visited.