Well, there should be a word. So I am coining it, as of now. Umaminess. The n'th degree of umami. In my favorite little market the other day I was astounded by a new batch of shitake mushrooms that had just arrived. Specimens so robust, so plump, so big and fresh looking, it was impossible to resist them; practically jumping out of the bin and into my cart. Well, I had been wanting mushrooms for soup; and, in my humble opinion shitakes are the kings of mushroom flavor. They are admittedly pricey, but when vegetables look really really good, it is totally worth it. Besides which, I am a mushroom admirer, see my various posts on the subject. The fungal fascination.
In her blog, Ruth Reichl had mentioned Elizabeth David's book, An Omelette and a Glass of Wine, which I then got from the library and have been reading. A collection of various articles she had written over the years. In that interesting book David very briefly discusses soups thickened with bread; particularly a mushroom soup recipe of hers which appears in French Provincial Cooking. Now I was not willing to wait for another book, and could find no such recipe online. (note below)* So, it was time to improvise darlings.
Always on the lookout for ways to utilize the remains of my loaves of bread, this was a match made in heaven for the soup of shitakes. The method is not too difficult. Briefly, just saute some onion in a bit of butter, add your mushrooms, saute some more, then add stock and the bread cubes, some fresh thyme or marjoram, simmer, blend.