Make Nine / Use Nine 2024

I'm putting together a Make Nine/Use Nine grid for 2024 -- even though I have never completed a Make Nine yet! But I enjoy the planning and it helps to think about what you might want to sew in the months ahead. 

Last year I ended making 3/9 of the patterns I'd picked: 

The Antonia Dress by PatternDivision
The Afternoon Blouse by Jennifer Lauren
McCalls 8024

Three seems to be on average how many things I make from a big plan like this. I'm still intending to work on a couple more from previous Make Nine plans, too. Last year I said I still wanted to complete the Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc that I'd put on my 2021 list -- and I did it!

Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. This year I found it hard to decide on 9. I know I have less sewing time and am trying to prioritize things that will fit into my wardrobe plans while still also being fun things I'm excited about. 

But this plan is intended to keep these projects top of mind, not act as a hard and fast rule that I must make all of them.

And so, starting fresh with a new 9x9 grid, here are my hopes and plans for 2024 projects: 

1. New Look 6679 - probably the long sleeved view but I like both views a lot

2. Burda 115-05-2023 - this was one of their most popular patterns of 2023, and I meant to make it in 2023!

3. Burda 10 -03-2021 - I really like the lines of this and am finally going to make it after thinking about it since this issue came out

4. Itch to Stitch Palermo - this is a pattern from the Itch to Stitch book "Sew Beautiful". I want to test to see if I will use it for my own Vyshyvanka (Ukrainian embroidered blouse) 

5. Burda 105-10-2021 - I like the extra ruffle on this blouse and hope I can make it work.

6. Burda 6354  - I plan to make this in a colour blocked version, the view with the shorter ruffled sleeve

7. Closet Core Jasika Blazer - as noted in my sewing goals for the year, I want to finish the course for this pattern and make a great version for myself!

8. Style Sew Me Nikki Blazer - I bought this pattern last year and would love to try it out, I love the relaxed cardigan style of this blazer

9. McCalls 7730 - I was looking for a cropped jacket with very few style lines specifically for my oversize print, shown below. I hope this is it!

I'm also hoping to combine this plan with my Use Nine and make the following match-ups. The only one I'm not really sure about is the Nikki Blazer fabric - all the others are fairly solid choices.

Hoping to beat my record of 3/9 this year!

2023 Make Nine / Use Nine

I'm putting together a Make Nine/Use Nine grid for 2023, even though I have never completed a Make Nine yet! I do enjoy the planning so I'm at it again. 

Last year I ended making 3/9 of the patterns I'd picked: New Look 6525, New Look 6598 and Vogue 8612. 

Not too high of a ratio, but it did help to have them written out like this. Still, a fourth is cut out and ready to stitch (the Perth Top by Carolyn & Cassie) and I'm still planning on working on a couple more. I'd like to get the Bianca Shrug by Sinclair Patterns finished, and still want to complete the Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc that I'd put on my 2021 list! 

Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. This year I found it hard to decide on 9 -- I ended up picking 9 items I just want to make, not attempting to make a wardrobe out of them! They are all things that I have fabric for as well. 

This is just to keep them top of mind, not a hard and fast rule that I must make all of them.

And so, starting fresh with a new 9x9 grid, here are my hopes and plans for 2023 projects: 

1. Antonia Dress by Pattern Division 

   I really like the simple lines of this one; I'm looking for the perfect shift dress and this might be it.

2. Butterick 6326

   I like the high waisted straight skirt view & think it will be a great basic to go with all the colourful tops I am planning 

3. Afternoon Blouse by Jennifer Lauren

    I have had this pattern for AGES and it is such a sweet silhouette. I'm going to try the blouse, and maybe the dress as another shift attempt.

4. McCalls 8024

   I love the slouchy dolman style here - it feels so 80s. I've got to try this!

5. Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot

    I love the style of this one, I had to buy this pattern from a small Montreal patternmaker as soon as it was released, so now it's time to make one! 

6. Simplicity 1284 

    I like the style of this one and think that maybe I have a fabric match, but maybe not...

7. Butterick 5938

    I have had this one on my radar for ages! I also have the perfect fabric for it.

8. Butterick 6127

    I like this style a lot -- great work wear. And I have some magenta houndstooth to use since that's apparently the hot colour now 😉

9. Butterick 6356 

    This oversize blazer pattern from 1993 is just what I'm looking for now! Will have to create a lining.

And here they are matched up with stash fabric:

Let's see if I can hit more than 3/9 this year ;)

My Kyiv Jacket: Jalie Tania in blue and gold

Well, I made it to Round 3 of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee! This is farthest I've ever gone in this challenge, and I'm enjoying it so far. The challenge set was to make the Jalie Tania coatigan, and make it your own. I've made the Tania previously, so didn't have to do much fitting or tracing, which was a definite benefit as the week-long sewing challenge fell on a week in which I was very busy and short of time. 

I ran a number of ideas through as possibilities, until I finally decided on making a lightweight coatigan from some navy and black wool challis in my stash. I was taking Kyiv as my inspiration: it is sometimes known as the City of the Golden Domes, and so instead of the bright yellow and blue of the Ukrainian flag, I went with navy and gold in a nod to both. 

I cut my navy wool, and the gold lining I had in mind. I was planning on doing some embroidery and/or stencilling in gold, but when I was making samples I just couldn't get it right. It all looked too "homemade" and not what I was going for. So I decided to make a change.

 I knew I had some gold-toned fabrics in my stash so got them all out and changed the lower part of the Tania. I decided on some bronzey stretch fabric so had to interface it with lightweight interfacing to keep it from stretching out. Matching up those "V"s meant some fussy hand basting to begin with, something I experienced on my last go-round when I was matching up piping points. This bronzey gold seemed to go nicely with both the navy and the more golden lining. 

But I still didn't think it was enough, it needed a little more design. So I made the interior of the collar also in bronze, to highlight it when the collar is turned down. And more importantly, I decided to make a slashed sleeve, both to show off more gold and as a tribute to the church domes that were my inspiration - the oldest churches in Kyiv were built in 1037 and kept getting added to up to the 1850s and beyond, so that stretch of years includes the European fashion of slashed sleeves and doublets somewhere in there ;) 

 I used a strip of 2.5" wide gold fabric, attached to the sleeve which was split down the middle (it's a symmetrical sleeve) with a 1/4" seam, and then folded back together with edges touching. It's stitched down by about 3" at top and bottom, while the middle is left to open and reveal the gold insert. 

This wasn't too hard to make -- the pattern is quite straightforward. I didn't have many fitting adjustments to make, both because I am a fan of the boxy shape, and because I've made it before. But all the additions and changes did mean I had to start over a bit and think about how to put it all together most efficiently. 

While I don't think this was really out-of-the-box or terribly unique (no real changes to style lines or overall appearance) I enjoyed making it. I was pleased with my inspiration, and was also happy to have been able to once again make the entire project out of stash materials. I knew that gold lining would have a perfect project some day!

Spring Suki in Sateen

A while back I read and reviewed Tilly and the Buttons' Make It Simple sewing book. At that point I mentioned that I was most interested in the Suki Dress from that book. Well, I was sorting through the stash and came across a cotton sateen that I bought a long time ago, and thought that this was a perfect match. 

The suggested fabric for the Suki is something with more drape or flow, but I like a structured garment, and thought that this fabric would work well. It did! The only issue I have with it is that it is a bit see-through so will be wearing a full slip with it, nothing too bad. 

I cut a size 5/6 which seemed to work well for my measurements. It's a simple dress, which you could wear loose without a belt if you were going for a cocoon look, but not with a stiffer fabric like this one - it's more like an egg. With the belt it's fabulous. I had some trouble getting the belt loops sewn on neatly, but you can't tell so all that matters is that they are secure ;) 

The belt is actually a really nice feature, transportable to a standalone pattern. It's not just a sash, it is a wide belt for 3/4 of it's length, with narrow ties sewn into the front. I really like the effect, it's easy to tie without a bulky knot at the front, and just adds a little extra detail to this fairly simple outfit. 

My changes were that I added side seam pockets, using my favourite pocket bag pattern. I just made sure to mark the waistline on the pattern so that I could place the pockets correctly. Tilly suggests trying on the dress before placing the belt loops; I found that they needed to be slightly higher than I'd first thought, so trying it on first is a great plan. (I had the shoulders sewn together but the sides only pinned, so I could sew the loops on a flat piece of fabric afterward.)

I shortened the dress before cutting it out but found that with the belt on I could have left another inch for a hem. As it was, I didn't want it much shorter than it was cut, so ended up giving it a hem facing using some premade vintage bias binding (very lightweight, unlike modern cotton-poly binding). That gave me a 1/4" hem, which was perfect, and also gave a very pretty finish. 

I'm quite pleased with this dress. The simple silhouette really highlights this bright and bold print, and the small details are nice. I might make this style of  belt for other outfits too! Another of my blue & yellow Spring projects complete :) 

Styled for this still cool Spring day

Make Nine / Use Nine 2022

It's time for a 2022 Make Nine! Even though I only made 4 of the items on last year's Make Nine list, and used 3 of 9 fabrics, I love making these loose plans every January. Planning is half the fun. As always, I consider these as current ideas, but if I change my mind & don't make them it's no big deal.  No pressure!

I really enjoyed making this plan though. It came together quickly, as I am basing it on my wardrobe theme that I developed in the fall. There are jackets, blouses, and fitted dresses, all in the Bold Playful Power Suit theme I'm focusing on now. 

I used the My Body Model croquis for this process; I enjoy seeing how patterns will look on my body and matching them up with one another as well. I tried to choose patterns that I've had on a mental list for a while, and ones that are matched up with fabrics from my stash. It's a combo Make Nine/Use Nine this year! 

After sketching these all out I tested the whole set together and think that it works well as a plan. I have a mix of Big 4, Indie and vintage patterns here. Below they are matched up with the fabrics I've chosen - there are only two that I'm not fully committed to the combo for, but the others are all a definite go.

1. New Look 6525, View A, in a colourful poly knit I picked up last fall. 

2. New Look 6598 in a linen-rayon blend. You can't really tell but this black fabric has a bit of shimmer to it. 

3. Simplicity 8014, View C/D, in a cotton print I bought from Fabricville online last year and have been dithering over the right project ever since. I think this minimal seamed shirt dress is it.

4. Perth Top/Dress by Carolyn & Cassie. Not sure if I'll make this as a top or dress. If a top, I'll use this scrap rayon from my stash that would look cute with the next pattern.

5. Vogue 8612. This is a pattern from 1993 that I thrifted a while back. The short jacket is perfect for some cobalt wool I bought from the online thrift shop, Our Social Fabric, in Vancouver.

6. Bianca Bolero/Shrug by Sinclair Patterns, in a floral lace knit. 

7. Butterick 3978. Another thrifted pattern, this is one that I'm not sure I should make in this pink silk noil or use a yellow cotton also in my stash. Hmmmm. 

8. See & Sew 5766. A thrifted pattern with a cool little jacket that I want to make in this giant floral home dec canvas. 

9. Butterick 6488, View A. This cobalt rayon will be perfect for this front ruffle blouse that I'd better make while it's still on trend. 

Anyhow, that's my Make/Use Nine for this year. I'm not counting the projects I already have underway, which include a green skirt to match my recent jacket and a short Burda jacket to match my checkerboard skirt from last year. Once those two are done I'll start on these Make Nine projects! 

The Clothes Come Marching 3x3

I have been using the My Body Model croquis & methods in a basic way since I was fortunate to win a package from them at the end of February. I really enjoy it! I'm not usually a planner when it comes to my sewing; I generally have a list of potential makes and then follow my mood. So taking time to match things up & organize actual outfits by drawing is still quite new to me. 

Erica from MyBodyModel is currently running a 3x3 Spring Challenge-- to create a 6-9 piece capsule wardrobe for the upcoming season using your croquis. The due date for entries has been extended to May 2, just in time for MeMadeMay. You can check out the ideas others are sharing by searching IG for the hashtag #mybodymodel3x3

I was fiddling around with some sketches & some pattern ideas, trying to decide what went together, what could be made from stash fabrics, & what I was in the mood to make. I came up with this essentially black & white capsule, adding accents of green.

I ended up using the top & pants (green print, black) from Vogue 9364 and the top & skirt (black,  white) from Simplicity 9115, then added in a knit pencil skirt (black) from Patterns for Pirates plus the top view of Merchant & Mills' Factory Dress in green.

I'm not sure how many of these pieces I will actually get made up - but if was a fun exercise & got me looking more closely at the patterns & fabric I already own.

I enjoy the drawing process & think I might work out another wardrobe shortly! 

The High Rise Dress, or, McCalls 8960

I sewed up a very unseasonable project this week, but I saw this fabric from my stash alongside this 80s pattern from my stash (McCalls 8960 c.1984) and they came together like peanut butter and chocolate. I was obsessed and had to make it immediately! 

I had pulled out this fabric because I was looking for anything in my stash that resembled this year's Pantone colours. I've had it for a long time -- picked it up on the ends table as "unknown fibres". But it feels like a rayon twill to me. It's a little too lightweight and cool to wear at this time of year, despite the subdued colours. But the fabric is so soft and smooth and feels great to wear. It also reminds me of lit-up windows in a high-rise as viewed at evening...so it's now known as the High Rise dress. 

This was a pretty easy project, aside from the shiftiness of the fabric. It's a typical 80s pattern, full bodice with dolman sleeve, elastic waist and straight skirt. I like the way it fits although I might take a little bit of the fullness out of the bodice if I make it again. As it is, the only changes I made were to cut the sleeves in between the lengths of both views so they're a bit longer than the above-elbow of View B, and then to shorten the skirt  by 2". I didn't like the original length, which falls right in the frump zone. Not knee length or midi length - ugh! So I shortened it to knee length. (of course I am 5'2" so shorten most things anyhow). 

The only pattern matching mishap I had was on the centre back seam; I got the fabric shifted slightly when cutting out, so the yellow squares aren't exactly matched across the seam, but once the skirt was gathered you can hardly notice. 

The flaws in the pattern were few. The back walking slit was hugely long and would have been way too high for my short legs. I don't even think it's that necessary in the shortened length, but I did leave about a 2" slit there. The other flaw was that there were no side seam pockets included! What! Thankfully that's easy to remedy with my favourite pocket template. I sewed them right at the top edge of the skirt so that they'd be attached to the waist seam and stay put. The only thing to note about pockets like this with a gathered skirt is to be sure to gather the skirt first and then pin the tops of the pocket bags to the waist seam over the gathering before sewing them together. You don't want to gather your pockets. 

Narrow hems on both sleeve and skirt, a quick rectangular sash sewn and pressed, and the dress was done. I needed to press it carefully as it is heat sensitive and quite wrinkle-prone (yes, pretty sure it's rayon!) 

But I love the final effect. It feels quite subdued and quiet to me, like a rainy day. I feel calm in it! Unfortunately I'll have to put it aside until the weather warms up, but it was just one of those projects that I had to make immediately upon envisioning it. Now on to more seasonal wear...

Make Nine / Use Nine 2021

 It's the beginning of a new year, and time for a new sewing plan! I made a #20in20 plan for last year, but am not making a 21in21 for this year -- continuing that trajectory could just get ridiculous ;) 

Last year I ended making 5/10 of the patterns I'd picked, and using 4/10 of the fabrics. Not too bad, it did help to have them written out like this. 

I'm moving back to the basic #MakeNine this year, and adding in a #UseNine as well. Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. 

Anyhow, my list for 2021 of nine great patterns from my extensive stash that I'd like to make this year are as follows:

1. Montana Midi Dress by Style Arc

This is a simple dress that is just the style I like wearing in summer. I have tons of lightweight cotton and some linen that might all work with this one.

2. Melrose Dress & Top by Itch to Stitch

Another perfectly simple silhouette for an easier make -- and Itch to Stitch is always reliable with drafting and fit, so I know that I'll like this one. Even has a boxy top view as well!

3. New Look 6159

Skirt suits are appealing to me right now, and I think this pattern is just what I'm looking for. I'm planning on a classic matchy matchy outfit here. 

4. Butterick 6655

I like the short sleeve, short length view -- this is essentially a well-fitted shift dress with a faux button placket stitched on. I think if I could get this fitted well it could serve as the basis for many variations.

5. Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc

I like the look of this one, if I can get the fitting right -- petite-ing a dress with all the detail in the hem area can be a bit tricky but I'm willing to give it a go.

6. Bento Tee by Liesl & Co.

I love the silhouette and the cool pockets and I saw someone on Instagram make a dress version which is also tempting. I've liked the patterns I've tried from this company previously so this is next up.

7. Fringe Dress by Chalk & Notch

This one was on my list for 2020 but I didn't get to it. I still really want to make it so I'm carrying it forward! 

8. Simplicity 1542

Another great pick for a blazer -- this one has 3 great views, plus a flippy skirt. I like all 3 versions of the jacket, just have to choose one to try out this year.

9. Ivy Pinafore by Jennifer Lauren

Another item from last year that I didn't get to but am carrying forward, mostly because I want to wear it while jumpers are still in fashion, plus, I have a great wide-wale blue corduroy I want to use for this. 

Next up, the 9 fabrics I want to use this year -- some a few years old, some quite recent. This may be matched with some of the patterns above, or they may not. It all depends what I am feeling! 

L to R: checkered cotton canvas (lightweight), reddish wool blend houndstooth (thrifted),
wool blend b&w houndstooth with faint gold sparkle

L to R: crinkle polycotton floral, gorgeous tropical print rayon,
vintage poly blend faille (thrifted)

L to R: rayon abstract alphabet print, rayon knit, poly blend knit with faint houndstoothy vibe

There are also a couple of alphabet prints that I'd put on my list for 2020 that I haven't gotten to yet but really want to make up this year. Text based print, houndstooth and dark florals -- all my favourites for this year! Plus green, I'm really loving it right now. 

So that's my plan for this year. Let's see how long it is before I'm distracted and veer off this path ;) I also have at least 10 Burda magazine patterns I'd like to make, not to mention my vintage/retro stash... oh for more time! 

With all these plans it will be interesting to see what my stash looks like by the end of the year. Have you made sewing plans this year or are you planning to go with the flow? 

Repeating Patterns: A Skirt & A Sorbetto

Over the last week I've been working on an outfit consisting of multiple patterns I've made before. My recent Burda Swing Top (#115 11/18) was so much fun to make that I wanted to repeat it in the fancier fabric I had in mind for it all along -- but in order to do that, I'd have to make a couple of pieces that would match the fabric, both in colour and style.

I wanted a straight skirt and a shell to wear under the top, since the fancy fabric for that is a lace.

I went with the infamous Rachel Comey Vogue 1247, which I have made once before. This time I also used leftover fabric from my recently made Burda 6381. This boucle-like fabric is so pretty I wanted to use it up -- and it did use every last bit of it to cut out this skirt. Of course, I did add 6 inches to the length of the skirt as it is notoriously mini!

I had to adjust the sizing somewhat; since I still have my first one I was able to assess it to see how to adapt the fit. I cut it at 18 (the largest size in my pattern) and added about 1/4" at each side by the yoke seams to give myself more hip room. I also shortened the darts by 1/2" each. It's all done except for the skirt hook & eye as I couldn't find the one I thought I had ready for it -- I'm just going to unpick one from an old skirt I haven't worn and reuse it.

I decided to line it, as this fabric really needs a lining. I cut an interior shell with no horizontal seams by overlaying the pattern pieces, and instead of darts, sewed tucks into the lining. Then I basted the lining to the top of the skirt before sewing on the waistband. I also used the lining material for the extra pocket piece to reduce the bulk of the pockets.

My dress form is a little thinner than I am, since I haven't padded her up yet, but even though the skirt looks loose on her, it is a perfect fit for me! I am really happy with it.

Now on to the top -- it's my old stalwart, the Sorbetto by Colette Patterns. I needed a sleeveless shell for this purpose so this is the first sleeveless make in all my Sorbetto variations.

I had the perfect shiny poly in my stash that I'd planned on using for the back of a waistcoat which never got made -- so grabbed it for this. There was *just* enough to fit a sleeveless Sorbetto in. I used French seams to reduce fraying and instead of sewing down the box pleat I sewed an inverted pleat down about 2.5" from the neckline.

The released box pleat on the inside looks so nice I might use that option on the outside of the next Sorbetto I make!

While I won't wear these two alone like this as an outfit (I don't wear sleeveless tops like this usually) I will wear them with the top they are made to support. Which should be shared here soon!

I can wear a lot in my wardrobe with this skirt. I also think I could wear this shiny Sorbetto under a cardigan or blazer in future. I enjoyed trying new versions of these patterns I've made before -- the fit on both of them is much better than previous iterations.  Having these standards in the stash means that when I want a particular shape I can rely on these kinds of patterns. And I got to use up more stash fabric! A win all around.

Fabric Stashing with Fabricland

The excellent news in these parts is that the imminent closure of our local Fabricland has been changed into the upcoming MOVE of our Fabricland! They've found a new location in our city, and let me tell you, the multitude of sewists here could not be more pleased.

There are still some pretty good sales happening though, since they have to downsize for the new space and move everything! I have been pretty good this year about buying new fabric, well, at least until the original closure was announced. This week I popped in to buy some D-rings for my upcoming fall project (I'll be using an olive-y green silk that I picked up at a garage sale last year, so the silver D-rings I already have don't work!)

But then I checked out the clearance tables, which had a 50% the clearance price deal happening. And I found some amazing things, I just couldn't pass them up.

First I saw this quilting cotton and the print just sold me immediately. I didn't know who Nathalie Lété was until I looked her up after buying this. I had no idea she was such a popular artist! I'm thinking maybe the Anna Dress for this.

And I found some poly-rayon heavy ponte in bright red. I feel the need for a winter dress in red, perhaps another Vogue 9022 or something from a Burda magazine.

Then I came across this cotton (I think) sateen with an amazing bronze/burgundy mid-century modern feel to it. I don't know what to do with this, but I had to have it. Gorgeousness for $2.50/m, irresistible!

Finally, I picked up this upholstery fabric that I've been looking at for a while, but now that it was half off the $5/m sale price I had to buy it. I think it's a poly/linen/rayon blend, and the weight and drape is lovely.

Plus I adore houndstooth. I am thinking about a suit made from patterns from my most recent Burda mags -- a straight skirt and one of these two jackets - the Button Up Blazer on the left, or the little jacket with a bow at the collar on the right.

So there it is, lots of ideas for fall sewing! I have a few more transitional pieces I want to make before I get into the heavier fall/winter things though, so I'll have more to share soon :)