Sew Indie Month: Pattern Hack Zsalya/Cressida Dress

Sew Indie Month is officially over for another year, but the contests are open until the end of today. Thank goodness I had this weekend off work, because I've been working madly on finishing my own Pattern Hack to enter.

I looked at all the patterns included in Sew Indie Month -- really, all of them -- searching for inspiration. Influenced by all the folkloric prints on the runways these days, I eventually decided to use one of my favourite stalwart patterns, Kate & Rose's Zsalya top & dress, and hack it into a fit & flare style dress, using Jennifer Lauren's Cressida skirt for the bottom half. This entailed a few changes.

The skirt was the easy part; I planned to take out the button placket in the front of the Cressida, and cut both front and back on fold. I used the regular waistband and pocket, but had to do a little adjustment on the left side pocket, as I was adding in a side seam zipper. Instead of getting really complicated about it, I just "made it work" with the way the pocket already sat. So now that pocket opens a little lower than the other side (about an inch lower). I also made sure the waistband opened at that side and not the front or back!

It ended up though, with the fabric I chose -- a narrow quilting width -- I had to cut the skirt in two pieces. I added a 1/2" seam allowance to the centre seam and just stitched it up and continued on. The print hides the seam very effectively.

It was the Zsalya bodice that really slowed me down, though. I've made the Zsalya three times before, and really love it. But my idea here was to take out the fullness of it, and taper it into a waistband. I made some pretty massive flat pattern changes to the bodice below the yoke -- shortening it by a good 10 inches, narrowing both front and back at the waist, and adding in darts to take up some of the remaining fullness.

Fuzzy shot of the redrawn, redone bodice pieces, with multiple attempts to get darts etc. right!

In my first muslin, the front looked great, with some gathering left in at the yoke seam, and darts adjusting the fit otherwise. The back was horrible though -- the darts did not work at all, the back was all wonky and puffy. So I tried taking the back darts out and replacing them with equal gathering top and bottom (reminiscent of McCalls 6696). But that also puffed out and made me look like I had a kangaroo pocket on my back. So then I switched it to an inverted pleat. It looked nice flat, but had the same puffy effect when I tried it on. So then I decided to just fold out all the gathering, and then took a 1" swayback type of horizontal dart across the centre of the back. It worked beautifully. The only other bodice fix I had to do was to make sure that the bottom of the bodice was going to be the same size as the Cressida waistband, which I used pretty much straight as it was drafted.

Front bodice with gathers left in & darts though you can't see them

Back bodice, with no gathers left

I finally got to the point where I was going to cut out my pattern in "real" fabric. I considered a number of choices from my stash, but when I saw these two side by side I knew they were perfect. I think that the Zsalya yoke gives this dress a folksy feel, but adding in the effect of these two fabrics also makes me think of Japanese design.

The floral print is a vintage sheet I've only owned for a few months, and the star print cotton is another 15-yr-old stash treasure that I originally bought with the plan to make a "Space Odyssey 2001" star quilt, alongside this other starry fabric I also used for a dress recently. The star fabric is a heavier cotton with a touch of stretch in it. I wouldn't really consider it quilting fabric but it did have a narrow width so perhaps it was sold as such; I can't really remember now! This info was on the selvedge:

In any case, I put it together, adding in a side zip on the left side, as the design made that the only possibility for an opening. I inserted a regular zip, as a centred zip, since I couldn't find a navy invisible zip in my local store. I'd have preferred an invisible one but this one turned out pretty well in the end.

Forgive the impressionist closeup -- I could not get a clearer image!

Then it came time for the sleeves. I wanted to use the Zsalya sleeve but change it from full length to elbow length. I had to extend the sleeve band as my elbow is larger than my wrist ;) When I tested it I didn't like the look of all the gathers that high on the arm, it seemed like 80's style puffed sleeves.

I decided that I should remove all the gathering and change the sleeve to the width of the band -- to do so on my muslin, instead of recutting another sample sleeve, I quickly sewed in a few tucks to take the fullness out and basted the band on again to check it out. But I was so taken with the look of the irregular darts around the sleeve that I repeated the same technique on my final make (there are about 7 darts in each sleeve). I love how it leaves the fullness of the upper sleeve but tucks it smoothly into the sleeve band. With the starry fabric, I feel like there are starburst darts in the sleeve, and I love the effect.

This pattern hack took much longer than I anticipated, but I enjoyed every minute of it. It was a lot of fun to look at a familiar pattern in a new way, and to do the "adjust & test & adjust again" until I had things just right. I might shorten the front bodice by another inch if I try this again, but I'm satisfied with how this turned out. I really love the final effect of these two fabrics next to each other in these two patterns.

I hope you all enjoyed Sew Indie Month as much as I did!

 

Floral Summer Zsalya

I just made my third version of the Zsalya pattern from Kate and Rose. I think this is a repeat record for me -- making 3 versions of any pattern -- and each of them is quite different.

I started with a little black dress, then made a long-sleeved flannel winter version, and now have come up with a light cotton summer version.

Looking a little washed out... and anxious to escape mosquitoes!

I'm really pleased with how this one turned out. One of the best things about remaking a pattern is that you already have all the fitting adjustments made -- it's just lay it out and cut. Nice for a change :) I had a very subdued floral print sheet that I thought would work nicely for this pattern, and I also had some piping that matched the red tones in the print perfectly. Thus was born my summer version.

I used the short sleeve option this time, and chose to use the "clean" finish for the yoke rather than the "quick and dirty" option -- both are detailed clearly in the pattern instructions and both work just fine, but on this one I thought that any extra bulk at the seams might show through the lightweight fabric, so chose the clean finish.

 Left: the yoke from the inside: clean finish on this version, the Q&D on the purple version

Right: yoke from the outside: you'll notice the clean finish has topstitching, the Q&D does not

I added piping to the neckline, easy since the yoke (front and back) is fully faced. Then as I was about to add piping to the sleeves I had an idea. Instead of adding it at the sleeve edge, I added it to the facing strip, which I sewed to the inside and turned out to the outside, stitching it down along the line of piping. I really like the banded effect it's given this blouse.

This sleeve edging is so cute

It's a comfortable top, and quite easy to put together (especially on the third go-round!) I really love this pattern. The Monthly Stitch has just posted a great interview with the pattern designer, Kati of Kate&Rose, in which I was pleased to find out that the Zsalya is one of her own favourites too :)

I like how the gathers are echoed front and back

This is one of the three tops I made this month in an effort to use up some of my stash. I was moderately successful, considering that I still bought more fabric this month than I used. How does that happen??

In any case, I love my new Zsalya, and I'm sure it's not the last one I'll make. Easy to make and to wear, and with a pretty, folksy feel. Love it.

First Make of the Year: Purple Zsalya!

I found this beautiful floral flannel at the store just before Christmas, and knew exactly what I wanted to make with it. I immediately knew that the Zsalya tunic would be amazingly comfortable in this soft, warm fabric.

I first made the Zsalya pattern (by Kate and Rose) at the beginning of the summer; I bought it because of Indie Pattern Month in May. I love my little black dress, and knew that the tunic version was a must-make, too, especially in a cozy winter fabric.

nice coworker snapping me at work!

While I had this all cut out and prepped during the Christmas holiday, I didn't get a chance to start sewing until this weekend. I took the weekend for myself, and stayed in the whole time, and what a treat that was! I changed the order of sewing somewhat; while I followed the instructions carefully for the yoke, and decided to choose the "quick & dirty" version of finishing it this time around, I then decided to set the sleeves in flat. This worked great, until I'd sewn up the sides and then realized I hadn't attached the cuffs while the sleeve was flat, as the pattern instructs you to. I sewed them on like a band but it was tight going and I had to carefully manipulate the fabric to make it work. So, pay attention to the instructions :)

Crossover yoke, so comfy

This is such a great pattern. I really love all the little details -- the crossover yoke, the gathered sleeve with shaped cuff, the gathers at the yoke front and back. It is super comfy and yet still dressy and pretty, at least I think so. This winter version in flannel is cozy and the bright print made me feel spring-like even in -20C weather!

Gathered sleeve & cuff with little wave

Back view with gathers

The purpley-navy tones in the fabric also got me going on a mending job I've been meaning to get to for months -- a simple cinching of the waist on a navy knit skirt I picked up on super-sale at Target in November. I wore my new Zsalya with this skirt and my navy Rose Hip tights (from Seamster Patterns) to work today, for a great new functional outfit. Hurrah for finishing my first project of 2015!

Little Black Dress: the Zsalya by Kate & Rose

I had the chance to go to the opening of Hay Fever at the Stratford Festival this week, and it was perfect timing for me, giving me an opportunity to wear my new little black dress, the Zsalya (we all know events are mainly about what we can wear, right?) I picked up this pattern during Sew Indie month, from Kate & Rose, a pattern company totally new to me. I'm definitely a fan now. I like her sensibility, and the touches of folk-inspired design that she incorporates. It almost makes me wish I could embroider as well as sew :)

I cut the pattern during Sew Indie month, but didn't finish it until last week. That was entirely because of my schedule, not any problems with understanding the pattern. The Zsalya is an easy pattern; with no closures, but a clever yoke that allows you to slip it over your head but also have it fitted across the shoulders and bust. It's loose and drapey in the body, which I was unsure would suit me, but I liked it in the end. Here's the full finished view.

Taking a quick photo before heading out. The funny way
I'm standing means that the gathers aren't spread out properly.
Also, you can't see that I added pockets -- of course!

This is the way the dress falls freely. I'm carrying
 a shawl because I find that theatres can be cold places.

The construction of this dress is pretty easy, but the yoke is an area you have to be careful with. Kate & Rose's pattern gives you two options for the yoke: the clean finish or the quick & dirty version. I decided that I'd go with the clean finish, which means that you sew the body pieces to one side of the yoke then enclose that seam beneath the other yoke piece and topstitch. It wasn't as "clean" as it was supposed to be, I'm sure -- I was using a black polyester from my stash, which, while pretty, was very slippery and slidey and was heavy enough that it pulled out of place a lot. I had massive pinning going on ;) Even so, I really like this finish, it's smooth and looks nice inside and out. I might use the quick & dirty version if I make a more casual tunic, but for this dress I wanted it all finished nicely. And I wanted to follow the pattern closely to get a true feel for it. The only change I made was adding side-seam pockets, which I often do when the design lines will allow for it. 

Back: I need to stop pulling my arms up every time I get a back picture
taken. The yoke doesn't pull, it sits quite evenly and comfortably.

Front: You can really see the nature of the fabric in these close-ups. It has a
soft & flowy drape, with the faint floral that I liked when I saw it. But it's also
 kind of strangely heavy, and the feel of it kept making me think of an oil slick!

The sleeve finish is lovely, such a nice touch. And it has
a gathered sleeve cap too.

Did I mention that I wore this dress for its first outing to the theatre? Here was the curtain before the show -- pretty stunning, like everything that Stratford does. The costumes in this show were amazing, and it was a light and enjoyable play. I was perfectly comfortable in my new Zsalya!

Waiting for Hay Fever to start

Here I am in the theatre lobby, sorry for the blur,
it was taken with my phone in poor light ;)

This was a great pattern, that I can see using again in a different fabric for a more casual dress, and also making up in the tunic view. It's easy to follow, with clear instructions, and the pdf tiles went together easily when I was taping it up. Kate & Rose now have paper patterns available and it is tempting...I'm also looking at the Giselle dress, with the various lovely makes up around the web lately...