Photo of E34 5er Production Line, Munich, circa 1990

Check out this BMW Munich factory photograph of the E34 5-Series in production during the quality-control process. It would have been taken around 1990. I wonder if the workers in the foreground by the Henna Red car are smiling just for the camera, or if they are actually just that happy to be doing what they are doing. I choose to believe it is the latter, but either way just look at the full compliment of moustaches...
As for the guy stood to the rear of the blue model behind - check out those grey slip-on shoes! I think he took these from pop-star Falco's personal collection. Der Kommissar ist on der floor! The shop floor that is... Clearly these were the days before 'Health & Safety' madness and mandatory steel-toe boots and hi-vis.
What a great photo and man, do I feel like getting an E34 sometime soon. Shame they are shooting up in value here in the UK.

BMW BUS System Troubleshooting

Interesting and highly informative BMW training manual on troubleshooting the BUS system fitted to cars built from the late '90s through the 2000s. Detailed guides on design, diagnosis and repair of the original BMW CAN-BUS systems.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1vIxKdCSqhcQqEKfE_VTRVw7PWJuP6rNE

BMW BUS SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING:

1. Introduction

2. Definitions

3. Controller Area Network (CAN bus):

• Introduction
• CAN bus topology
• Troubleshooting the CAN bus

4. Diagnosis Bus (D-bus):

• Introduction
• D-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the D-bus

5. Information and Body Bus:

• Introduction
• I/K bus topology
• Troubleshooting the I/K bus

6. Peripheral Bus (P-bus):

• Introduction
• P-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the P-bus

7. Motor Bus (M-bus):

• Introduction
• M-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the M-bus

8. Review Questions

All models using Bus System from model year 1991 onwards.

This module discusses:

• Advantages of using bus systems in a vehicle.
• Various bus systems used in most BMW vehicles.
• Operating principles of a serial bus.
• Methods of troubleshooting bus lines using the diagnosis program.
• Distinguishing a correctly operating bus line on an oscilloscope.

Have fun!

E39: Replacing / Unclogging the Washer-Jet Pump

If you think your pump is faulty then check this post first - Windscreen Washer-Jet System Problem.

-----------------------------------------

Removing the pump is easy, but getting to it is quite involved due to the amount of under-car panelling the E39 has.

PROCESS:

1. Jack up the o/s front of the car and detach the plastic mud-guard by removing the 3 hex-head screws that hold it to the wheel-arch. using a 7mm wrench.

2. Lift off the plastic under-tray that sits to the rear of the wheel-arch by removing the 5 plastic-studs around its edge. If you lack a took for pulling out this kind of stud then lever the head of the centre-pin out a few mm with a flathead screwdriver and then slide it clear with pliers. The body of the stud should now slide out easily.

* The car may need lowering to remove the under-tray and re-lifting, as the jacking-point lies in the centre of it.

3. Remove the 7 hex-head screws around the inside of the wheel-arch. as well as two at the leading edge of the under-tray, unseat the inner wheel-arch from around the lip of the wheel-arch itself and pull the plastic inner-arch down out of the way.

* The water-tank for the windscreen and headlight washer-system is located just behind the wheel-arch, below the front of the driver's door. Not the Intensive cleaning-system, which has both the tank and pump under the bonnet.

4. Unplug the wire-connector from the pump in centre of the tank**, by sliding a flat screwdriver into the clip and lifting it upwards.

5. Pull the slim hose-connector clear of the central pump** and allow the tank to drain.

This is a good point to test the washer system one last time to make sure it isn't a blocked hose and the pump is getting no water.

6. Gently twist and pull the pump upwards about an inch out of its mount, then remove the black rubber-bush it sits in.

7. Flush the tank several times by pouring water into the filler-nozzle under the bonnet and allowing it to drain through and clean around the lip of the pump-mount. Check the pump for clogging.

8. Replace the rubber-bush to the tank and, using the new pump if necessary, reverse the procedure.

** The pump in the centre of the tank with the slim hose is for the windscreen washers. The left-hand pump with the larger hose is for the headlight washers.

*** The black connector on the inner corner of the tank is the level-indicator probe. This is also a push fit and the best place to drain from, after removing the wire-connector as above.