A trip on the Mississippi — Yankees and Confederates as travelling Companions.
A correspondent of the Mobile Advertiser furnishes that paper with an interesting account of a trip up the Mississippi. It that the people of the two nations are as as if they had never lived together and experteneed the mutual pleasure of fleecing and being fleeced:On Friday we took passage from Memphis on the beautiful river palace Belle Memphis. How quickly was the line of demonstration drawn between the two classes--Northern and Southern; the former overhearing and inquisitive, the latter independent but cautions. Fortunately quire a number of the old dwellers of the sunny South were on board, and we had a pleasant little relique of our own, and among ourselves talked over the topic nearest our hearts, while searching Yankee eyes gleamed at our party with suspicion. It is surprising how soon each finds his own party element, and even on this Government boat how tepidly the opposing elements of society discover and heartily bate each other with unusual bitterness. There is but little association between the oppressor and the oppressed, the latter with dignified hauteur evading the aggressive advances of the other. From the lips of the party on the opposite side of the cabin, composed chiefly of officers' wives, we frequently catch such eloquently malignant language observations as "dirty secesh;" "wish the guerillas would let flicker and hit them; " and one woman, whose little girl was nearing our party, cried out--"Come back here, you little devil ! don't I tell you those are the dirty 'secesh' that broke up the Union and burn the boats. " Without giving evidence of hearing their language, the little party of patri conversed on in whispered, like a small head of in Venice while under the searching eye of the Austrian oppressor. True, this is submission to the tyrant's power, but the deep sentiment or hatred which is revealed in the gleaming eye, betokens the presence of that spirit of patriotism which will yet nerve each arm to strike once more for liberty! When the supper-table has been cleared, an excellent negro string-band strikes up the enlivening air of our "Dixie," and the festive dance begins. It is observable that each party introduces its members in the dance, and the same stern hauteur is observed, which permits of no compromise between these embittered, enemies.--Sharp anomaly — they dance but will not speak!--The subjected party waits until the vile Yankee oppressors have locked themselves within their state rooms and then the dulcet tones of Southern girls ring out upon the midnight air the inspiriting "Southrons hear your country call you;" and having thus given vent to their pent-up feelings, and expressed their gratification, each, with a warm shake of the hand, bids the other good night.--There is a bond between them stronger than friendship — a sympathy in their oppression; the high resolve of patriotism; a faith strong as life itself, that the day of their disenthralled draws nigh, and that their release will be the signal for them to wreak vengeance upon the oppressors.
But few Yankee officers are travelling upon the boats, and fortunately they do not often inflict their hated presence upon those who are quartered in the ladies' cabin, but show their mean instincts by walking around behind and peeping in at the windows, just as when, in the South, they go to the negro quarters or admit themselves at the back entrance — a sense of their own meanness restraining them from acting as while people. A special Government agent is on board each boat for the purpose of examining baggage, and a rigid search is made for silver ware, more especially as the Yankees have a presentiment that large quantities of family plate owned by rebels are sent northward to relatives for safety. So when silver ware is discovered the unlucky possessor becomes dispossessed and is informed that metallic charms are especially pleasing to "the Government." Without misstatement this is actually the principal incentive for keeping such agents upon the boats. In coming down the river all goods are taxed five per cent, and care is taken that no smuggling is carried on, both baggage and state-room berths being carefully examined. A lady bringing with her goods which are not made up subjects them to confiscation. Those who are wise are careful to oversee the examination of their baggage, or they will find such little valueless articles as money, gold, and jewels very apt to take flight with the honest agent of his country. No passports or papers of any kind are required in order to travel the river; but any intimation that you are from the "land of cotton, persimmon seed, and sandy bottom," will insure a careful watch of your proceedings by some of the innumerable detective force.
Fort Pillow, I observed, in coming up, was completely dismantled, and but little remains to recall the formidable fortress which once forbade the navigation of the Mississippi. A regiment or so of cavalry are quartered somewhere in the vicinity for the purpose of keeping guerillas from halting the boats at such a favorable point for their operations. Wonderful stories are related to you on board the boats of the action of these boards, and a wholesome fear prevails that each boat will prove the next victim. To so great an extent does this prevail, together with the effects of boat burning, that all who can avoid travelling on the river, and there are but few who do not take the railroad from St. Louis to Cairo with an idea to personal safety. Whenever a man on horseback is observed upon the bank of the river the fears of Captain and passengers arise, and are not quieted until the frightful object is safely passed.
The famous Island No.10 has degenerated from one of freedom's watch towers to a negro colony. Here the subjects of the "peculiar institution" have been peculiarly treated by the Yankee powers. This barren and-bar is the real bona fide Garden of Eden of the negroes, where Abolition equality and Yankee philanthropy display themselves under the most favorable aspects. An encampment of about one hundred and fifty tents, spreading itself over the entire length of the Island, is inhabited by an average of seven hundred contrabands, who are furnished by the Government with rations and clothing, and by certain Abolition Christian societies with white teachers.
Large number of boats ply the river, and there is really so little opposition met that from Memphis to St. Louis navigation is safe to a greater degree than it should be.
