>> Eat the World NYC: Mali
Showing posts with label Mali. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mali. Show all posts

28 July 2017

Timbuktu Islamic Center Vendors

MALI ðŸ‡²ðŸ‡±

Nine out of every ten Malians practices Islam, so naturally the ones that have made their lives in New York City have set up a cultural center and mosque for their daily prayers. On a Friday as the imam called for jumu'ah, or the weekly congregational prayer, taxis had basically double-parked the entire block with the faithful coming to pray. While non-practicing folks will not go into the mosque, there are a couple interesting vendors just outside the building offering some tastes from back home.

While most Muslims conduct their five daily prayers individually, Friday is special because everyone makes a point to join the jumu'ah. The day is also the only time you will find the vendors at the Islamic Center due to the higher volume.


I have been wanting to visit this particular vendor pictured above since it was reported in Eating in Translation. It now seems that two vendors come on Fridays, the one not pictured serving full boxed meals including fish and attiéké, cassava that is fermented and grated. She will have to wait for another day, as there was only room in the stomach for dessert on this Friday.

The vendor and I unfortunately shared no common language, but a friendly patron also buying items was happy to answer any questions and was quite friendly. She became very happy when our conversation shifted to my travels in Mali and enjoyment of thiakry during that trip.

A table full of items available each Friday.

You can find thiakry (below) throughout West Africa, a sweet dessert made from the staples of the region. A couscous made from millet creates the base, while the sweetness comes from condensed milk and sourness from fermented milk.

The whole set came to $5.50.

I had just had a nice version of thiakry from a Senegalese vendor at the Go Africa Harlem festival a couple weeks before, and was hungry for more. The version she makes here is lighter than most and almost fluffy. With a sweet tooth, it also pairs well with a bottle of homemade bissap juice, the purple liquid shown above. It is slightly spicy with hints of ginger within, and syrupy sweet just as West Africans prefer. They are brought here frozen, so the extreme cold helps to cut the sweetness.

The only thing not included as far as I could tell, were nuts and dried fruits to sprinkle on top of an order.

Also pictured above was a small package of three bread discs that are slightly sweet. I think I was told that these were best served with the other porridge available here (seen on the table photo above) which was served hot. Unfortunately I could not accommodate everything and just grabbed them to go.


🇲🇱 ðŸ‡²ðŸ‡± ðŸ‡²ðŸ‡±

13 July 2016

Balimaya

MALI 🇲🇱

The first time I walked by Balimaya in the Bronx, I simply took a photo and made a note to come back. A quick search online brings up almost nothing, except for a small Rachel Wharton Daily News article that mentions a customer from Mali. With my interest heightened but trying not to get too excited, I returned again, only to find nothing on offer for lunch during Ramadan. I did have a short conversation with the matriarch of the kitchen in her limited English and my very limited French, and ascertained that she was from Mali as well.

Patiently awaiting one of the five pillars of Islam to pass, I returned again last week after Ramadan for lunch and once again was faced with what seemed like an empty steam table. Luckily a couple lids were pulled off to reveal two available options: chicken and fish. The chicken seemed more appetizing, so I pointed at it and sat down. I was there around noon and told the soups come out around 1pm, so future diners should heed this advice.

It seems that Balimaya wants to advertise more than Mali for sure. Postcards of Alassane Ouattara, the president of Cote d'Ivoire are on the wall as well as an Africa's first presidents poster. Islamic texts in Arabic also adorn the walls, as does an advertisement for a tae kwon do course that looks to be taught by a West African.

I was asked whether I wanted a small or large portion, and if any experience in West African restaurants has gone to good use, it is to pick the small. What came to me was an $8 or $9 (depending on the price of the bissap drink I also ordered) mountain of chicken that was easily two full meals.


As seen above, the plate is also served with a large portion of puffy white rice and a small squirt of pepper sauce that should be approached, much less used, with caution. The sliced onions and tomatoes that top the chicken are part of a mustard and vinegar sauce that is used on many types of West African grilled meat dishes. Here the mixture is sharp and oily, both in favorable ways.

Those oils that collect at the bottom of your plate are perfect for adding to a spoonful of rice. The pieces of chicken, already expertly marinated, also take in the sharpness of the sauce, each bite a work of art. This stuff is good.


On this visit the woman from Mali was busy in the kitchen and I was served by another friendly woman, who was from Guinea Conakry, the country English speakers refer simply as Guinea, whose capital is Conakry. Not Guinea-Bissau, that is to say. Most of Guinea is closer to Bamako, the capital of Mali than further flung regions of the northeast such as Timbuktu which have little in common with the capital. The lingua franca of the three ladies working here I do not know.

My trip to these regions of Mali many years ago, written about in my book Calm of the Niger, was met with the unfortunate situation of never having delicious meals. When I first learned that the chef was from this lovely country, I admit to doubting the food. After one meal, these doubts are gone, and I am looking forward to coming back with some friends and having a larger spread.

[UPDATE 08 AUGUST 2016: Here is that spread]

Preparations underway

Grilled fish ($16)

Lamb head stew ($12). Look close!

This lamb head had no chance

Peanut butter stew ($10)

Potato leaf stew ($10)

Sweet plantains ($5)

"Couscous" comes with fish.


Our cup of dessert was mouni ($2, above), usually a breakfast porridge made of millet flour rolled into tiny balls. The tang from the millet and added sugar is reminiscent of candy somehow. A dollup of sour cream comes on top.

It is very clear that Balimaya is a special place.

🇲🇱🇲🇱🇲🇱
MOTT HAVEN Bronx