Hawa Restaurant

SÉNÉGAL 🇸🇳

The intention on this chilly afternoon in late January was to dine at African American Best Food, which had firmly been living on the to do map for a few years. One attempt came during a renovation, another had been made on an unannounced closed day. As of a month ago, it was completely gone.

Since a new place with a similar menu had quickly taken over the space, Senegalese lunch was still possible. The staff here said that the new team had nothing to do with the old, a completely new endeavor. Onward marches New York City, as always.

A few almonds at each table.

As with most West African restaurants around town, it is best to ask what is available before looking over the menu, especially at lunch. On this day there were just three options at around 13:00, and the atmosphere made it seem like no customers came before this time. Maybe do not show up too early.

Thankfully one of the options was exactly what was desired on this day, thiebu djen ($12.99, below). Meaning "rice and fish" literally, this fish and rice dish is one of the staples of Sénégal, enjoyed throughout the country. Their very light djolof rice is excellent here and sets the baseline for the plate.

There may not be a more filling and satisfying meal then thiebu djen, with fish stewed in tomato sauce and placed over the rice with carrot, cassava, and white cabbage. Do take care with that scotch bonnet pepper, as even just dragging it through the rice leaves a nice trail of heat.

The rest of the West African menu, when available, is basic for a Senegalese restaurant in town. What might be a bit of a surprise, but not when considering a desire to expand the customer base, is the items of Caribbean descent like oxtail and curry goat.

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HARLEM Manhattan
410 Lenox Avenue

I COULD USE YOUR HELP

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Bantu Food Pop-Up: A Congolese Holiday in NYC

DEM. REP. OF CONGO 🇨🇩

Chef Linda A. Sebisaho, who goes by Linda A. Cooks and runs a Harlem-based catering outfit called Healthy Afrique was to be found running the show at the Maysles Documentary Center this past weekend. In coordination with Bantu Tastes, she brought the foods of her birthplace Democratic Republic of Congo to New York City.

Most of these items are otherwise nowhere to be found unfortunately, so the event presented a fascinating opportunity to learn about some Central African dishes and ingredients that have very little exposure here.

This visit took place on Sunday, the second day of the two day event, and unfortunately quite a few of the dishes had already sold out and were unavailable. Apparently a large group of Congolese people had come on Saturday and cleaned the place out.

Regardless, quite an assortment was still available, and it was great to taste some of what was on offer. One of the staple starches of Congo is chikwangue (below, left), cassava that has been pounded and steamed in banana leaves. It is thick and chewy and pairs well with just about any dish. Pinch off a small piece and pick up some meat or vegetables to go with it.

Catfish stew with chikwangue.

Fumbwa, wild spinach stew.

Safou, a sour meaty plum-like fruit.

Mikate, sweetened fried dough.

Use the links in the first paragraph above to get in touch with Chef Sebisaho, who is available for catering. Any future events she has in New York City will be anticipated greatly.

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HARLEM Manhattan

Maysles Documentary Center

I COULD USE YOUR HELP

Eat the World NYC is and always has been free. No advertisements block the content or pop over what you read. If this website has helped you explore your city and its wonderful cultures a little better and you have the means to contribute, please consider doing so. Eat the World NYC is a labor of love, but also takes a lot of money and time everyday to keep running.

You can Venmo me @JAREDCOHEE or click here to send PayPal donation, no account is necessary. Thank you!

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Tsion Cafe

ETHIOPIA 🇪🇹

Sometimes called fir-fir like on the menu here, and sometimes fit-fit elsewhere, recently there was an intense craving for this Ethiopian breakfast dish that thankfully was easily satisfied when work was nearby Tsion Cafe on a morning last week. They simply call it a "spiced onion stew" here, but it is much more than that, full of berbere and most notably, small chunks of injera.

Usually served in a bowl and eaten with a spoon, what makes the fir-fir ($12, below) unique here is that instead of offering a piece of injera on the side they actually wrap the stew up with it with the care taken to bundle a little baby. As you peel away the top folds, tear pieces and use them to pick up the stew. In fact, unless you ask, this will be your only utensil, the way it should be.

As stated, this is primarily a breakfast dish in both Ethiopia and Eritrea, but it looks like Tsion Cafe offers it all day. The cafe is deceptively larger than it seems from the street, the small storefront opens up into a fairly expansive space a few steps down from the sidewalk, and even has a backyard for the 25 or so nice days a year that happen in New York City.

If it seems familiar, you are showing your age (and your good taste) because it used to be home to Jimmy's Chicken Shack, the historically essential Harlem club known for good food and jazz. The Sugar Hill space once frequented by Charlie Parker and Redd Foxx is this exact room, now the domain of tasty Ethiopian food. Tsion Cafe opened in 2014 and seems to focus on the healthier aspects of its chef's cuisine.

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HARLEM Manhattan
763 Saint Nicholas Avenue

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Ralibera/Madagascar in NYC

MADAGASCAR 🇲🇬

From afar, a food truck with the logo of a 2005 animated Dreamworks film might not seem so approachable. But when that movie is titled Madagascar and is meant to describe the cuisine cooked inside rather than attract children, things in New York City get a little more interesting.

On quite a few recent days, this new truck has been parked on Broadway between the 116th Street subway station and Earl Hall in front of Columbia University. Just about everything on the daily menu costs $8, including the two chicken dishes sampled on this sunny afternoon seen below.

Poulet au coco ($8, below) is described as chicken in coconut sauce, although the flavor profile is devoid of any of the sweetness you might think comes with coconut. A good portion of oily sauce goes hidden into the rice, but make sure to dredge it up for maximum enjoyment.

Speaking of the rice, be sure to ask for Madagascar pink rice even though it may not be written on the menu board. This aromatic rice practically nonexistent on this side of the Atlantic Ocean should be treasured and is a real treat. It adds a bit of sweetness and spice to the rest of the meal.

Both meals were served with sides of tomato broccoli salad and a mixture of very tasty zucchini and peppers. These were both good on their own or with the rice.

The akoho sauce ($8, below) had less flavor and used white meat that was a bit dried out. The sauce was primarily of green olives, and once again needed to be fished out from underneath the pink rice.

The line of food trucks that populate Broadway on campus have one of the prime locations for eaters from anywhere, as once you procure your lunch you can easily walk into the grounds of the university and find a nice bench, some steps, or patch of grass to eat on. The Malagasy (from Madagascar) truck was possibly the least popular in the mix on this afternoon, but please do not be afraid of it and try this unique food.

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MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS Manhattan

Broadway near 116th Street

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Grab & Go Food

YEMEN 🇾🇪

This all happened by accident, but sometimes this is the best way to experience the city. When a nearby Senegalese restaurant had its gate down and a "closed for renovation" sign out front, a little canvassing was necessary for a meal. Without much time before a job in the neighborhood, a quick look around did not find anything new so I retreated into a deli to grab a quick sandwich.

As New Yorkers, we take our corner groceries and delis and bodegas for granted, knowing they will always be there for us whenever we need them, early in the morning and late at night. After the recent "bodega strike" last year when the current administration tried to impose a ban on Muslims entering the United States, most of us now know our beloved corner stores' owners are in many cases from Yemen, if we did not know already.

Some of these shops might have a shawarma spit spinning next to the grill that turns out egg sandwiches and turkey clubs all day, but what happened at Grab & Go Food in Harlem was new to me: A menu with the famous Yemeni saltah right at the top of the page. They have some standard Middle Eastern fare here as well as the entire line of Boar's Head deli meats, but the $10 saltah (below) was what was destined to be eaten.

The man taking orders could not at first understand my likely very bad pronunciation of the word, but also may not be accustomed to a non-Yemeni or Middle Eastern customer ordering the dish. His surprise likely matched mine when it arrived at my table in a traditional stone stew pot still boiling. This pot came on a wooden base for transport and my meal became the center of attention for the other customers who were seated at the shops four or five tables.

They do not have a proper oven here to make Yemeni flatbread, but some warmed up pitas are brought out with an order. I was asked if I wanted it spicy, and this translated into a jalapeño being chopped up inside the stew, which had a stronger than usual fenugreek taste. Shredded lamb marakh, the base of the stew, was joined with scrambled egg, potatoes, and a small amount of vegetables. For the price, it is an incredible amount of food and enough that could not be finished. Luckily a neighborhood teen took me up on the offer to taste it when I saw his interest, and came back for more after enjoying it so much.

We already love our Yemeni bodega owners and their wonderful stores that keep New York City running, but if they all plan to add Yemeni cuisine to their daily offerings, the ceiling is about to get moved skyward.

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HARLEM Manhattan

2 West 129th Street

Map of Eat the World NYC:

People's Choice Kitchen

JAMAICA 🇯🇲

Sitting here along the narrow counter, there was not a moment when the small space was not shared with other customers ordering meals to go. The name of the restaurant seemed to live up to its billing. When new to a Jamaican restaurant, I often gravitate towards the stew chicken as a barometer.

Small stew chicken $9

The dish was tasty, I ate every bite, but what I enjoyed most was the community atmosphere. Jamaicans and non-Jamaican Caribbean-Americans came and go and many had regular orders that the proprietor knew by heart. Even as a first-timer, she was concerned how well I liked my dish and was pleased when given high praise. Yelling "thank you" through the protective glass when leaving and not expecting to hear anything back from the void, a cheery "You are very welcome!" came shooting back as I opened the door.

Not pictured was a pretty tasty beef patty ($2.50) that was not made in house.

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HARLEM Manhattan

2733 Frederick Douglass Blvd

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Sylvia's Harlem Restaurant

USA 🇺🇸

View this post on Instagram

USA 🇺🇸 Dispatch from Harlem, Manhattan: The "Queen of Soul Food" lives in Harlem, her kingdom has reigned since 1962. Come on a weekday and sit at the counter to watch the place buzz, or get a table on Sundays for their "gospel brunch" to really experience the heart of this vital neighborhood. Prices have skyrocketed in recent years due to its popularity, and to be honest there is plenty of good fried chicken in the area, but there is still something here at Sylvia's that makes an impression. ° Sylvia's Harlem Restaurant, 328 Malcolm X Blvd, Harlem. Instagram exclusive post, added to full map on website. ° (1) Chicken and waffles, (2) Salmon croquettes and mac 'n cheese, (3) Malcolm X Blvd facade. ° ° #EattheWorldNYC #eattheworld #worldfood #worldfoods #instayum #instafood #instaeat #foodlovers #foodlover #forkyeah #nyc #nyceats #nycfood #nycdining #newforkcity #eatingnyc #eatingnewyork #manhattan #manhattaneats #harlem #harlemny #harlemeats #harlemfood #sylviasharlem #usaeats #usafood #southernfood #southerncooking #soulfood #soulfoodsunday

A post shared by Eat the World NYC (@eattheworldnyc) on Apr 25, 2018 at 7:38pm PDT

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HARLEM Manhattan

328 Malcolm X Blvd

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Timbuktu Islamic Center Vendors

MALI 🇲🇱

Nine out of every ten Malians practices Islam, so naturally the ones that have made their lives in New York City have set up a cultural center and mosque for their daily prayers. On a Friday as the imam called for jumu'ah, or the weekly congregational prayer, taxis had basically double-parked the entire block with the faithful coming to pray. While non-practicing folks will not go into the mosque, there are a couple interesting vendors just outside the building offering some tastes from back home.

While most Muslims conduct their five daily prayers individually, Friday is special because everyone makes a point to join the jumu'ah. The day is also the only time you will find the vendors at the Islamic Center due to the higher volume.

I have been wanting to visit this particular vendor pictured above since it was reported in Eating in Translation. It now seems that two vendors come on Fridays, the one not pictured serving full boxed meals including fish and attiéké, cassava that is fermented and grated. She will have to wait for another day, as there was only room in the stomach for dessert on this Friday.

The vendor and I unfortunately shared no common language, but a friendly patron also buying items was happy to answer any questions and was quite friendly. She became very happy when our conversation shifted to my travels in Mali and enjoyment of thiakry during that trip.

A table full of items available each Friday.

You can find thiakry (below) throughout West Africa, a sweet dessert made from the staples of the region. A couscous made from millet creates the base, while the sweetness comes from condensed milk and sourness from fermented milk.

The whole set came to $5.50.

I had just had a nice version of thiakry from a Senegalese vendor at the Go Africa Harlem festival a couple weeks before, and was hungry for more. The version she makes here is lighter than most and almost fluffy. With a sweet tooth, it also pairs well with a bottle of homemade bissap juice, the purple liquid shown above. It is slightly spicy with hints of ginger within, and syrupy sweet just as West Africans prefer. They are brought here frozen, so the extreme cold helps to cut the sweetness.

The only thing not included as far as I could tell, were nuts and dried fruits to sprinkle on top of an order.

Also pictured above was a small package of three bread discs that are slightly sweet. I think I was told that these were best served with the other porridge available here (seen on the table photo above) which was served hot. Unfortunately I could not accommodate everything and just grabbed them to go.

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HARLEM Manhattan

103 West 144th Street

Pikine

SENEGAL 🇸🇳
GAMBIA 🇬🇲

Often times when there is news from a country that does not always make the front page here, it causes me to schedule an outing to eat their food. Other times, the news just happens by coincidence. In between visits to Pikine, a Senegalese restaurant in Harlem, I noticed the over two decades serving president of Gambia was defeated in an election, with street revelling photos to go along with the story.

Pikine is a small six table establishment run by three Senegalese women. Two are visible and run the dining room and another is in the kitchen. This third woman briefly came out for a break in her apron, revealing herself as head chef. As in Senegal, I never saw a man cooking. On our first visit, a mixed couple with child and two groups of Senegalese men were dining alongside us.

My dining companion arrived before me starving and ordered a plate of fataya ($7, below), fried pastries with ground fish. Nems ($7, not pictured), another "appetizer" that has it origins from Senegalese soldiers fighting for the French in Vietnam and bringing home wives, was never available during our visits.

It does not get more classic than thiebou djeun ($12, below), the "rice and fish" dish that is Senegal's pride and joy. The version here is served with a full accoutrement, the fanciest plate you may find in Dakar. Surrounding the rice are root vegetables, spicy pastes, crispy dry rice, a wedge of lime, and a very spicy pepper. The fish is full of zest from citrus and herbs, and almost melts in your mouth from freshness. It may almost seem cliché, but thiebou djeun is a great way to begin understanding Senegalese cuisine.

Mafe is always a favorite, but on a Sunday it was unavailable so we instead ordered a bowl of sulukhu ($12, below), another peanut butter stew served with lamb, fish, and okra. The first flavor that hits is smoke, while the textures in general are silky. Scoops of the white rice and soup seem made for each other.

Also of note is the thiebou guinar ($12, below), a grilled chicken with mustard sauce served over rice with vegetables. This is thoroughly enjoyable as well, although asking for some more of the sauce might behoove you.

Also on the menu, and the "Gambian" reason for being here is domoda ($12, not pictured), the national dish of the country written about on Eating in Translation. On these two meals and another attempt in between visits, it was unfortunately never available. After the third, Yahya Jammeh, the aforementioned president of Gambia has decided to reject the election results and the country is in turmoil. Seems like the news might be current for a good amount of time.

When another customer overheard me asking about domoda, he asked if I had been to Senegal. I said I had but never had the chance to try the dish, which is eaten in both. If my fortunes ever change, I will of course update the post here.

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HARLEM Manhattan

243 West 116th Street

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Le Baobab Gouygui Restaurant

SENEGAL 🇸🇳
GAMBIA 🇬🇲

As most restaurants on 116th Street either modernize or move on as new residents move in, Le Baobab Gouygui is a very welcome respite, a bustling room full of West Africans on their phones and chatting together. The feeling is more like a community center or neighbor's home, and from the looks of it, it's the most loved traditional kitchen remaining on the street. Gouygui is the Wolof for "the baobab," making their focus quite apparent.

I always love being around Wolof speakers, because it sounds like surprise everywhere. Their word for "yes" sounds a lot like the English word "wow." A man on his phone at the next table was constantly surprised by the things whomever he was talking to was saying.

Daily lunches rotate, four or five different dishes on each day. If you arrive after 2 or 3pm, there may only be one or two of these choices remaining.

The restaurant has also opened a branch in Brooklyn, On Fulton Street near Bedford Avenue, another location that is home to a decent number of West Africans.

When the two of us showed up at the 116th location at 4pm, the place did have a sense of transition, and we were told of the four usual Monday lunches, they were out of the thiebu djen, a classic rice and fish dish that never disappoints, and suppu kandja, an okra sauce that comes loaded with lamb and fish.

Thankfully the two dishes they did have were both excellent, starting with the thiu poisson ($12, below, may read "thiou au poisson" on other menus), which has a whole on-the-bone tilapia under a spicy tomato stew with vegetables and onions. The spices, not to be underestimated, are subtle at first but get the mouth going pretty quickly. The white rice is a good counterpoint to the stew.

Fatty hunks of on-the-bone lamb surround a big portion of fried rice on a plate of thiebu yapp ($12, below). The rice has vegetables and small hunks of more lamb cooked into it, and is served with a side of the delicious mustard vinegar lemon sauce that you see with many West African meat dishes like dibi (available for dinners).

A note about that pepper you see on most Senegalese dishes: Be careful with it. What looks like a Scotch bonnet, this guy spreads his "love" even when it brushes other things on your plate. Even if you like your food hot, cut this into very small pieces and approach with caution.

Le Baobab also makes drinks and dessert, so take a look into the refrigerated case and grab a couple beverages if you like sweetness. They have a ginger drink, as well as bouye and sorrel ($3 each, below). Of note is the bouye, something I had not tried before even in Senegal. This is made from powdered baobab fruit, and has a sweet taste like candy. It hints slightly towards chemicals, but I think this is only because I had no reference point for the sweetness of this fruit. It is definitely worth the try! We inquired a bit further and were directed across the street to the small grocery and fish market which carries the powder. Apparently full of health, one of these $5 bags came home with us to be mixed into morning smoothies.

Also in the refrigerator, and perfect to take home if you're completely stuffed, is their fine thiakry ($4, below), a millet-based sweet dessert that is something like rice pudding. We ate ours plain, but it is encouraged to sprinkle on cinnamon or some small hunks of fruit as desired.

On Friday lunch, don't miss the domoda yapp, a peanut stew somewhat similar to maffe that happens to be the national dish of neighboring Gambia. They eat this in Senegal as well, and no one in the kitchen hails from Gambia as far as I could discern, but for a taste of this tiny (yet currently very newsworthy) country, this could be your spot.

[UPDATES 2017/2018: The following photos are from two visits to the Brooklyn location]

Lunch service:

Dinner service:

Thiebou yapp

Brochettes de poulet

Debe

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HARLEM Manhattan

120 West 116th Street

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