Cute Little Zip Case- hand sewing project

 

This little zipper case may seem a little complicated, but it's really, really not. Best part of it is that it's made from scraps and recycled materials, and it's good hand sewing practice. Unfortunately, I didn't take photos while making it because I made it a few months ago after getting proofs of some of my Spoonflower fabrics. I didn't really plan to post the project, but TG asked "Why not? It's cute!" This case is inspired by Japanese macaron purses, but instead of using a domed plastic shape for the sides, it uses milk jug plastic with felt to soften the top.

So you will need:

• fabric- 4 pieces, they can be different patterns, but at least 6x6 inches if you are using a 7 inch zipper. 
• zipper- this can be recycled if you pick out the stitches from the tape carefully and the tape is intact
• clean empty plastic milk jug- I love milk jug plastic
• ribbon- a 1/4- 3/8th inch satin ribbon is a good choice, just a few inches
• needle
• thread to match the zipper
• a 6 inch piece of craft felt (if you are using a 7 inch zipper)
• glue- tacky glue works well.
• scissors- one pair for plastic, one pair to cut fabric. Please don't use your fabric scissors on plastic.

To start, overlap the ends of the closed zipper, and stitch them together. Stitch across the top bar of the zipper where it separates to close it securely at the top. Knot off thread on the right side of the zipper. It's going to get covered with ribbon so the knot doesn't show.

Make a small loop with part of the ribbon and sew it on so it goes the same direction as the zipper pull.

Now take another piece of ribbon and wrap the overlap with and sew it into place keeping the zipper flat. Don't let it gather or bunch up!

See how it's sewn? Also the open photo will hopefully help make the following instructions clearer.

So now that you've got your zipper loop, cut out 2 pieces of plastic in a circle that's about 1/2 inch smaller than the zipper loop. Which would be about a 1/4 inch all the way around.

Set the plastic pieces aside for a minute. Now it's time to gather up the zipper. Close to the edge, make basting stitches on one side and leave ends to pull. Repeat on the other side. Then pull to gather.

Now you'll make the inside. For that, cut 2 circles of fabric that are twice as big as the plastic. Stitch a running basting stitch all the way around, put the plastic in the middle on the wrong side of the fabric. Pull stitches tight around the plastic and knot off.

So now the insides are ready to be stitched to the inside of the case. Since the whole thing is going to be covered, you do want your stitches to be strong, but don't worry about how the knots look. Open the zipper, which should have a clamshell look with the gathering. Set one fabric covered plastic piece inside one side of the "clam shell" with the gathered sides together. Stitch it into place. Repeat on the other side.

Now it's time to make the top. For this side, you want it just the same size as the zipper loop. Cut 2 circles from the milk jug plastic the same size as the zipper loop, then 2 pieces of felt that are 1/4 inch bigger all the way around. Glue the felt to the plastic pieces. 

Cut 2 pieces of fabric in circles twice the diameter of the plastic circle. Do a basting stitch all the way around, then set the plastic circles on the wrong side of the fabric with the felt sandwiched between the fabric and plastic. Pull to gather the stitches. Knot securely.

Now all you have to do is stitch the outsides to the rest of the case, and it's done! 

These are so easy to make, and are super cute. Because the inside is very flat, it won't hold a lot of change, but it will hold a couple small treasures or keepsakes. 

Printable Mandala Clock

I bought 5 clock movements from Klockit when I ordered the movements. Originally the plan was to make a mandala clock, but then the other clock projects happened first. I also should have ordered more movements because this is fun and I love clocks that tick.

Like the comic book clock, I did this one using lamination, but you don't have to. The project will work just fine using cereal box weight cardboard, heavy printer paper or cardstock and ModPodge. I have a laminator though and enjoy using it.

For this one, you'll need to print a mandala. This is the colored version I used. Click on the image for a larger version.

Or you can print and color your own version of this mandala HERE. 

This mandala was designed to be used as a clock dial. The divisions are by 12 and 60 for hours and minutes. Any mandala will work, but I do recommend one with 4 sections of radial symmetry or with 12 sections of radial symmetry to make it easier to tell time. 

You will need:

Scissors

Clock movement

Clock hands

mandala

For the ModPodge- you'll need Mod Podge and a second piece of card stock or other lightweight cardboard

For the laminated- you'll need a thermal laminator and a letter sized lamination pouch

For a cardboard/card stock lamination, you'll take one colored mandala (either your own coloring or the version above) and cut it out around the mandala then cut out the second circle. Trace that mandala and the center circle on a piece of card stock or cereal box cardboard, and then trace the inside of the larger hex nut in your clock movement kit in the center of the small circle. Cut it out just outside the tracing and check it on your clock movement to make sure it fits. Trim only a little off at a time until it does fit. Then use a black permanent marker to color the center of the backing. Spread the back of the mandala with Mod Podge and glue it carefully into place on the backing piece, then cover the surface with more ModPodge. Let dry. Follow kit instructions to install clock movement.

For a laminated version, you'll follow the same steps as the comic book clock basically.

Print the mandala, color it if you chose the blank version.

Cut out the center circle and cut out the mandala so it's round.

Laminate using a letter sized 3 mil or 5 mil pouch

Trace the inner circle of the large hex nut using a permanent marker

Cut out, check on movement shaft, trim to fit

Cut out carefully around the mandala leaving a small laminated edge all the way around.

Follow kit instructions to install clock movement.

So why is this so addictive? Because it's easy and because I really, really love clocks. How easy?

These are the pieces from the Klockit clock movement kit and the instructions. It's only a few pieces. I used the #10043, which is a quartz battery operated clock movement that uses a standard double A battery and has a very short shaft which is perfect for paper clock projects. It has maximum dial thickness of 1/8th inch. Most craft store movements are designed for thicker dials. The only tricky part of installing the movement is getting the hands set just right. For that reason, I don't recommend the hands I used above for absolute beginners. The delicate scrollwork is a little too easy to bend. The spade shaped hands are really easy to set though and have a classic look to them! The rubber ring goes between the movement and the face and holds the face in place fairly well once you screw down the large hex nut. After the large hex nut, you set the hour and minute hands. The holes on them are shaped specifically to fit in different places on the movement so it's really hard to make a mistake except when you are setting both hands to the right positions. You can't accidentally push the minute hand down to where the hour hand supposed to be, and they are spaced so as long as the hands are straight, they won't lock up together going around the clock. Then you will either put on the final closed nut, or if you're using a second hand, a small open nut, then the second hand. Then it's done. Set it to the right time, put a battery in it, and tick tick tick! You can also order movements for other dial thicknesses, so if you have a clock that has a lot of sentimental value but no working movement, you can replace the movement yourself.

The back of the movement has a hanger on it, which is perfect for the paper clocks.

Easy Quick Fabric Clock Project

I love clocks that tick. It's soothing, especially when I'm going to sleep. I'm less fond of chiming clocks but you could do this with a battery operated chiming movement as well.

You will need:

• 8 x 8 inch square of fabric with pinked edges 
• 6 x 6 x 5/8 inch canvas (I got mine here)
• Quartz clock movement (I got mine here)
• Hands that are less than 2.5 inches long
• staple gun (there's a link to the one I use at the bottom of the project)
• ruler
• pencil
• Mod Podge matte
• Foam Brush
• button for 12 o'clock spot
• thread and needle
• Scissors or craft knife

The first part is super easy and makes a great way to showcase Spoonflower swatches as well (oh! Or use a Spoonflower swatch to make a clock!)- You're going to wrap the canvas with the fabric stapling it in place on the back of the stretcher bars. Fold the corners in for nice neat corners. Which turned out less than perfect on my clock, so if you have fabric that wants to get bulky or balky, trim the corners a bit before folding the corners in.

You need to mark the center for the shaft of your clock movement. To do that, use a pencil on the back of the canvas. Using a straight edge, draw a line from one corner diagonal to the other corner, repeat with the other two corners. Then you'll line the ruler up square with the middle which is where the diagonal lines meet, and draw lines vertically and horizontally.

Do you see the bit of thread peeking on the right hand side? That's the 12 o'clock mark. Center your button over the vertical line on the front of the canvas, on the inside edge of the stretcher bar, and stitch into place. I found the easiest way to make that knot tight was leave a long tail, and then tie the tails in a square knot using  2 strands of embroidery floss to stitch the button in place.

(please ignore the hole, I took the photos AFTER this step)

Using the foam brush and a firm touch to really work the Mod Podge into the fabric, paint Mod Podge over the front and sides of the canvas. Let that dry for an hour, then put Mod Podge on the back of the canvas. Let both sides dry completely. This step makes it easier to clean and it seals the fabric so the hole you cut for the movement won't cause fraying.

Cut a hole using the guidelines on the back that's big enough for your clock movement shaft. 

The movement will come with instructions, so follow the instructions to install the movement. If you click on this image, you'll see the shaft of the movement I used poking up from the center of the fabric.

Put a battery in the movement, hang and enjoy!

You can also staple Spoonflower 8x8 swatches to 6x6 canvases for quick art work. The two shown are from my fabric collections at Spoonflower. 

The clock movement I got from Klockit is the #10043, there are price breaks for quantity. The size fits in the space between the stretcher bars of the canvas very well and the profile is the same depth as the canvas. Klockit does use SmartPost for standard shipping so if you're in someplace like Alaska, you could wind up waiting very impatiently and wishing very much you expedited shipping. They do have a great selection of movements, hands and second hands!

DIY Glitter Photo Pendant

This little pendant is kind of like a locket, except it doesn't lock, and it's pretty quick to make except for curing time. Mine has photos of my kids in it.

You will need:

• Wood shapes- I used hearts!
• drill with a 1/8 inch drill bit and something safe to drill on
• 220 grit sandpaper
• optional- painter's tape
• paint
• fine glitter
• decoupage medium
• foam brushes
• Photos or pictures for the inside
• 1/8 inch hole punch
• scissors
• ribbon
• large jump ring- either handmade or commercial

Quick notes- I used my Fiskars Craft Drill, it's hand powered, quiet and easy to use. The glitter is Martha Stewart -Garnet, and the jump ring is made from 18 gauge copper using a knitting needle as a mandrel. The hearts were from a mixed bag of heart wood shapes.

You'll need two shapes the same size and shape, so if you have a bag of shapes, sort through and pick out 2 the size you want to make the pendant.

Then it's time to drill them. I used painter's tape to wrap them securely together. That let me drill both pieces at once to have the holes in the right place, plus wrapping them in tape helped keep the soft wood from splitting. You can also drill one, then use it to mark the other one to drill it.

Now take them apart if you've taped them together, and sand both hearts smooth. Then you'll paint them. They need to be painted and glittered in mirror image to each other so there is a front and back. Let the paint dry, then put on a coat of decoupage medium and GLITTER!

After the decoupage glue has dried, add another coat to seal the glitter so the finished pendant isn't leaving glitter everywhere. Let dry.

Then it's time to start with the photos. Measure your hearts to resize photos to fit, or draw little pictures on paper or cut images from a magazine. It's your choice, it's your necklace. Trace the hearts on the image, paying attention to where the holes will be so you don't accidentally wind up with a hole in the wrong place. Cut out just inside the outlines using the scissors. Place the heart over the image, and mark where the hole is to punch it. Repeat for the other image remembering they need to be mirror images for hole placement.

Decoupage the unglittered sides of the heart with the images.  Make sure the holes are clear using some sort of needle type tool.

Let the hearts cure,  Over night should do it.

Then you just need to connect them with the jump ring and hang from a ribbon!

You aren't limited to just hearts of course, stars will work. If you wanted, you could make a mini book by cutting pages to fit, punching holes and using a bigger jump ring. 

The cups in the photos are made by Silverbear Sundries. 

Super Easy Chained Bead Friendship Bracelets

These are some of the quickest, easiest friendship bracelets to make, and inexpensive.  Just a beaded chain stitch using elastic cord and mini pony beads. I think they would make a good tween project for groups.

You will need:

• Elastic Beading Cord- I used Dritz Metallic Beading Cord
• Mini Pony Beads in various colors*
• Scissors

*Full size pony beads will work too. I just prefer the appearance of the small ones

Cut 16 inch lengths of the cord. If you're making these with a group i.e. a summer camp project or scouting group, it's easier to have the cord pre-cut.

About 4 inches from one end, make a loop with the cord crossed.

Hold the cord where it crosses, and make a loop with the longer end and put it in the first loop.

Pull to tighten.

Now you'll put on the first bead, just push the loop through it. The holes in the pony beads are big enough for the folded elastic cord.

Make a loop in the long end, and put through the loop coming out of the bead. Pull to tighten the first beaded loop.

Add another bead.

You'll continue adding beads in the same manner, 6-10 beads looks good. Then to the beaded section, make a loop and pull it through the previous loop.

Then instead of adding a bead, pass the end of the cord through the loop. Pull to tighten. Until this step it's easy to pull it all apart by giving the working end a tug, this step locks the beads.

Tie the ends in an overhand or square knot, trim ends. Because it's elastic, it's easy to put on and off. 

My grandmother used to make necklaces in a similar fashion. She would use a metallic elastic thread instead of cord, chain from the beginning and intersperse plain chains with beaded chains using plastic pearls. 

Scrunchie- easy jelly roll hand sewing project

Scrunchies are one of the easiest hand sewn projects to make, and they are super handy. I use them at the gym a lot to pin back my hair. The ones above were made using jelly roll strips. If you've never done any quilting, you may not know about jelly rolls. They are strips of fabric cut selvage to selvage and 2.5 inches wide. There are lots of them available on Etsy. My daughter and I use them a lot for small sewn projects. You can make 2 matching scrunchies from 1 strip, 14 inches of elastic and thread.

You will need:

• 1 jelly roll strip OR 2 strips of fabric 22 inches long and 2.5 inches wide
• 1/4 inch wide elastic
• thread
• needle
• scissors
• safety pin

Cut the strip in half to make 2 22 inch strips, and cut 2 pieces of 1/4 inch elastic that are 7 inches long.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, thread a needle with a comfortable working length of thread, and make a couple small back stitches to start the sewing, then sew down the length 1/4- 1/3 inch from the edge. You can use a running stitch or back stitch. If you use a running stitch, make a back stitch every few inches to prevent accidentally gathering the fabric.

Put the safety pin on one end of the open tube through just one layer. Push the safety pin with the fabric through the length of the tube to turn right side out.

Attach the safety pin to the elastic and use it to  thread the elastic through the tube, gathering the tube as you go and being careful not to pull the end all the way through.

Bring the two ends of elastic together, overlap and stitch securely. Then tuck the edges of the tube in 1/2 inch, and slip stitch the ends together to close.

Repeat for the matching scrunchie.

This makes a good project for kids as well, and picking their favorite colors from a jelly roll can be a lot of fun. 

Decoupaged Mini Comp Books

My family goes through a lot of composition style notebooks. Both my kids prefer them for the games and stories they are working on, and to keep notes in. I use the mini ones to keep notes in and for shopping lists and reminders. They cost a lot less than blank books and have nice smooth lined paper. We also decorate them in different ways which makes less likely we will grab someone else's book.

They are also great blank canvases for personalizing.

The miniature composition books are 4.5 inches tall by 3.5 inches wide and have 80 pages, or 160 if you use the front and back of them. For my purse, I prefer a way to close them, and a bookmark to find the page I'm on quickly.

For this project you will need:

• Miniature composition notebook
• Mod Podge- I like Mod Podge Matte for these
• Pretty paper in 2 colors- heavy enough the black won't show through- I used scrapbook paper
• scissors- I used both plain and decorative edgers
• scoring tool- bone folder or even a knitting needle
• 1/8 inch hole punch
• 1 brad- also known as brass fasteners
• 1/4 inch wide elastic
• embroidery floss
• a small charm
• foam brush to apply Mod Podge
• Plate or scrap of paper to put Mod Podge on to use

Work with small puddles of Mod Podge. Only as much as you'll use for each step.

Start by tracing the notebook on the back of your main color of paper. Then draw a second line a half inch away from it on 3 sides- 1 long and 2 short. Cut it out, then use that piece as a pattern for the second piece. Use the Mod Podge to affix the paper to the outside of each cover. Diagram shows how it looks on the inside.

Trim the corners at a 45 degree angle, then lightly score the paper as close to the edge of the notebook as possible.

Fold in edges, and glue down with Mod Podge.

Let it dry for 20 minutes, then cover one side with Mod Podge. Let that dry for 20 minutes, then cover the other side with Mod Podge. Let it dry for 20 minutes.

Now you'll attach the elastic. Punch a hole in the back cover, centered vertically and about an inch from the outside edge of the notebook.

Cut 6 inches of elastic, seal the ends with just a dab of Mod Podge, other glues will work, but the Mod Podge is right there! Then make a small cut a half in from each end.

Make a loop with the elastic, and slide the brad into both slits, then through the hole in the cover. Open the "legs" to affix it in place. It will slide over the notebook to keep it closed like below. But for the next part you need to be able to open the book, so slide the elastic off the front cover again.

Cut 2 sheets of the contrast paper to fit the inside covers and glue them into place.

Now you'll need to make the book mark. Take a piece of floss about 16 inches long, and thread the charm on it, match up the ends, then tie a small overhand knot above the charm in the middle of the strand.

Cut a piece of contrast paper that's 3 inches wide by 4.5 inches tall. This is a good place for decorative scissors for the long edges.

Put the bookmark in so the charm hangs out just a bit from the bottom, fold the top part of the floss over the spine, and glue it down.

Now glue the contrast paper over the spine.

Let it dry for 20 minutes, then go over the cover with more Mod Podge, let that dry for 20 minutes, and put on another coat of Mod Podge. Work around the brad and elastic on the back cover.

Let it dry completely, slip the elastic over the cover, and it's ready to go!

These make wonderful little gifts too. Other than drying time, they are very quick and simple to make. You can further personalize them using photos, stickers, and paper cutouts on the covers.

Plaid sent me the Mod Podge Starter Pack at no cost to use for projects on Don't Eat the Paste. Be sure to like them on Facebook for lots of links and ideas.

The starter pack has 2 ounces bottles of Mod Podge Sparkle, Mod Podge Matte, Mod Podge Gloss,  Mod Podge Outdoors and Mod Podge Paper.