was it worth it?

Nacho's Mama asked if I thought it was worth it to make my own regalia. She said she was able to find regalia on the interwebs for $300.

It's an interesting question.

I probably spent as much money on the project as I would have spent just buying the robes. You have to include all the costs: pattern, fabric, fabric samples, muslin, classes, notions, gas for fabric hunting trips & classes, trim, etc.

I think I got 3 main benefits from making my own regalia. Hopefully, these will help other decide if they want to attempt this project.

1) robes made of natural fiber. This is a real, long term advantage for anyone that anticipates wearing these robes once a semester at sunny, outdoor events or stuffy indoor ones.

2) expanded sewing skills. I'm more or less teaching myself how to sew and I really feel that I gained confidence and skill as I worked on this project.

3) helpful diversion while completing the dissertation. I really needed a secondary project to help me unwind and let me do that "back burner" processing that is often necessary when one gets stuck. It helped keep me motivated while I was slogging through sections of writing that I was less interested in.

I'm very glad that I did this project, but I must admit that I'm not sure that I would have been as motivated to start it if the fancy robes had been $300. I probably would have just purchased them and suffered with everyone else in their polyester, but it's really nice not to have to do so. And, I get great bragging rights. Most computer science grad students don't sew, so it was really neat to show off my crafty skills.

Nacho's Mama, I hope this helps you make a decision!

radio silence

So...

I've been quiet this last week as I was completing my dissertation. It has been handed in to my committee. It feels really good. I defend on the 11th so I still have to put the finishing touches on my presentation, but I'm not too worried about that.

In regalia updates: I have received all my swatches and I am narrowing own my choices. I really like the 4-ply crepe and I can get it for about $25/yard. I have also found some lightweight tropical wool that might work if it looks like the silk will be too heavy.

I have traced, adjusted and cut out the Butterick pattern in muslin. It will be sewn together soon. I'm going to see if I can do the cartridge pleating with the amount of fabric in the pattern or if I will need to add fabric.

ON another side note, I bought the Threads fitting DVD set. I think I recommend it. I find it very helpful to watch someone make adjustments and be able to pause on a good shot and watch them doing it over and over again. Definitely worth a watch and probably a purchase.

Fabric swatches

I wrote an entire chapter of my dissertation in the last 24 hours, so I'm allowing myself a little time for fun.

Here are the fabric swatches purchased from the incredible G Street Fabrics. As you can see from the price tags, their fabric is high quality, but not cheap. I have ordered swatches from other online sources and I will post those as soon as I receive them.

On a side note, I'm still learning about the digital camera that I got for Christmas. I mucked up the settings and only got good color representation in a few photos. The ones I present here have been pretty heavily Photoshopped. You'll just have to take my word for it that all the outer fabric is very much in the navy range. I'm posting these pictures to show the different weights and drapes that I am currently considering.

Clearly, the poly robes are trying to reproduce the weight and drape of good wool crepe. The problem with that is that since these robes get worn almost exclusively outdoors in late spring, wool crepe may not be a good idea. I reserve the right to decide that it's too beautiful and that I will suffer for a few hours a year for the sake of a good costume. I think anyone who makes costumes for themselves to wear at special events can get behind this idea.

wool crepe $29.95/yd




silk crepe (I'm not sure which this is)


4-ply silk crepe $69.95/yd




3-ply silk crepe $49.95/yd


silk charmeuse $29.95/yd (I would use the crepe side as the face)


silk crepe de chine $24.95/yd


Novelty Textured Linen (light weight) $29.95




Light Weight Linen (just over hanky weight) $23.95/yd




Trim and lining fabric. I purchased the black silk/rayon velvet for the trim (I still need to get the gold braid). I have 7 yards of this true blue silk habotai that I can use for the lining. It also just occurred to me that only the sleeves really need lining fabric, so I bet that I have a few other things in my stash which would work too.

The impossible quest

I am currently writing my dissertation. I will defend it in less than a month. Which means I will be attending my last graduation as a student. I have accepted a position as an Assistant Professor, which means that I will be attending many, many more graduations. I wanted to have the really nice regalia, since I will be wearing it more than once (and I like fancy costumes).

The made-to-order regalia cost in the neighborhood of $900 and are made out of a poly-crepe. I don't need to sit in the sun in a $900 trash bag, so...

I have decided to sew my own academic regalia. I thought this would a pretty straightforward problem. You know, find pattern, pick out fabric, adjust pattern, sew, look fabulous.

Not so.

There is only one commercial pattern available to make academic/clergy robes. It is from Butterick, which I have found to be a pretty good workhorse pattern company. But I have taken a closer look at the construction of regalia and there are significantly more fiddly bits than appear at first glance. The Butterick pattern does not try to include these, but I think it can be altered to include them.

My initial research indicates that very few others have tried to do this project, so I am starting my first blog as an attempt to a) distract myself from looming deadlines and b) leave a trail for others to follow. I have found the costume diaries of others to be of great help, so I hope that this diary might be helpful to others. Please, if you're reading, post comments and questions.