From JLC On February 16th, jaeger-lecoultre.com will begin an online auction of the prototype Number 1 of the model Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm Tides of Time, from its SIHH 2009 collection. Please note that 100% of the proceeds will be donated to UNESCO.
Symbolizing the "Tides of Time" partnership between Jaeger-LeCoultre, the UNESCO World Heritage Centre and the International Herald Tribune, this timepiece associates two of the Manufacture's emblematic complications: an alarm and the simultaneous display of the time in 24 time zones. Three of the cities on its outer dial ring have been replaced by three natural sites appearing on the World Heritage list benefiting from a dedicated preservation programme supported by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The timepiece is a "Tides of Time" edition of the fascinating Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm model. Symbolising the "Tides of Time" partnership between Jaeger-LeCoultre, the UNESCO World Heritage Centre and the International Herald Tribune, this timepiece associates two of the Manufacture's emblematic complications: a highly readable Memovox alarm function and the world time system, the simultaneous display of the time in 24 time zones.
Three of the cities on the outer world time dial ring have been replaced by three natural sites appearing on the World Heritage list benefiting from a dedicated preservation programme supported by Jaeger-LeCoultre (Scandola in France, Galapagos in Ecuador, and Tubbataha in Philippines).
The conception of the extraordinary patent-filed two-part case fulfils the highest performance demands: the case is connected to its support by an original system that absorbs shocks to an unprecedented degree and enables the movement to pursue its task smoothly and accurately, by protecting it from vibrations and impacts during use in extreme conditions.
Thanks to the ingenious patented interchangeable wristband system integrated within the case middle, the straps can be removed in no time at all and replaced by another one.
MOVEMENT The 36.2 mm diameter automatic movement, Calibre 912, is one of the most imposing of its generation. It is naturally equipped with the latest technical feats stemming from Jaeger-LeCoultre's ongoing research: a variable-inertia balance fitted with adjusting screws on the outer rim; unidirectional winding; as well as an oscillating weight with ball-bearings in ceramics - a high-tech feature offering the invaluable advantage of requiring no maintenance or lubrication.
As the ultimate proof of its extraordinary sturdiness, the original alarm mechanism of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 912 is subjected to the implacable trial of the striker test, 45-hour power reserve.
The distinctive conception of the Master Compressor Extreme's shock-absorbing case called for in-depth research on the acoustic qualities of the alarm, leading to the creation of a state-of-the-art gong. Instead of the traditional gong fixed to the back of the case, the gong actually surrounds the movement and is secured to the case middle by two pins. It is struck by the hammer at a precise point near this point of attachment. The geometry has also been specifically revised so as to optimise the qualities of the sound emitted.
The alarm function comprises a double pushpiece enabling the owner to decide whether to start or stop the alarm function.Reflecting these inner technical innovations, the Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm watch is distinguished by an original display of the alarm time by means of two juxtaposed discs that appear through a perfectly readable window at 9 o'clock. The positioning of the hour disc is followed by the minute one, thus enabling the user to select any time in five-minute intervals. The watch dial also carries a date window at 3 o'clock with fast adjustment
The auctioned prototype, reference W17784T, is the first pre-series watch of the titanium "Tides of Time" limited series presented in January 2009 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, and to be delivered in Autumn 2009.
The high-quality prototype Master Compressor W-Alarm Tides of Time engraved "Proto Number 1" has been reserved for the online auction. It features a steel support and a satin-brushed grade 5 titanium case, which makes the prototype unique in comparison to the series, in terms of materials.
It will be delivered to the winner of the auction with 3 wristbands (a black rubber strap, a blue rubber strap and a leather strap) and comes with a 10-year Jaeger-LeCoultre International guarantee.Movement: Automatic Pieces number: 315 Vibrations per hour: 28800 Power-reserve: 45 Hours Jewels: 23 Barrel: 2 Height: 7.78mm
FUNCTIONS Hour - Minute Seconds Date World time indication simultaneously indicating the time in all 24 time zone Alarm with double hour and minute display Alarm function on/off selector
CASE Stainless steel (support) / titanium (case) Case-back engraved with PROTO Number I
WATER-resistance 100 metres
DIAL Black, luminescent numerals and hour-markers
HANDS Trapèze
STRAP Alligator leather Rubber
BUCKLE Double Folding Buckle 20.0 mm Pin buckle 20.0 mm
UPDATE Feb 24th 2009: SOLD for 19500USD: The Tubbatha marine site in the Philippines was chosen for the donation.
By TLex: If SIHH had a theme this year it was Divers Watches and here's another! Pierre Kunz's new Diver features some very interesting design elements, both contemporary and vintage. You will notice the 'old skool' style depth meter attatched to the side of the case, good to 80 meters and hardly aesthetically pleasing, but not a problem as it is detachable. The dial is adorned with a divers flag. I love the idea of the divers flag, but personally I'm not into red. The rest of the watch looks great!
© Pierre Kunz
© Kishidadays
* Peiere Kunz G021 Sport Diver
* Case stainless steel / 44mm (thickness 13.75mm)
* Movement Cal.PK2001-1519-B (ETA2892 base) Automatic, 28,800 vibrations/sec, 42 hrs power reserve
* Functions 80m depth meter
* Bracelet rubber strap
* Water-resistant 100m
* MSRP 9500Euro (Due for release this Fall)
By TLex I'm already a huge fan of the 1950 cases as on the PAM 243, so this also appeals to me. The brushed 47mm titanium case gets my vote, the 300m depth rating is more than sufficient, but I would like to have sacrificed the display case back in lieu of a higher depth rating.
On the other hand with Panerai putting a 100% in-house movement into this diver, I can see why they would want it to be seen.
I imagine this is going to be hugely popular, very expensive and a quite difficult to get hold of for a while. Get on a list now if you want one. I'd still take a 243 over this, but then again I have issues.
From Officine Panerai LUMINOR 1950 SUBMERSIBLE 47 mm (PAM00305)
MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13 ¾ lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 28 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incablock® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 195 components.
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, calculation of immersion time.
CASE Diameter 47 mm, brushed titanium.
Device protecting the crown: (protected as a Trademark) Brushed titanium.
BEZEL Brushed titanium with polished edges, anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel with graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion and ratchet click at minute intervals.
BACK See-through sapphire crystal.
DIAL Black with luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o'clock, small seconds at 9 o'clock.
CRYSTAL Sapphire, made from corundum, 4 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
WATER- resistance: 30 bar (300 metres).
STRAP PANERAI personalised rubber strap and large-size brushed titanium buckle.
By TLex Here's a first look at JLC's new Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs series. There are three watches in total. I really like what I see, the black bezels really give the watch a whole new look. The Diving Chronograph GMT is now on my most wanted list!
MC DIVING Alarm Navy SEALs (Limited series of 1500 in grade 5 titanium)
From JLC In 1959, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the first diver’s watch with alarm, the Memovox Deep Sea. 50 years later, the Manufacture reintroduces this complication in a timepiece created in partnership with the United States Navy SEALs. Equipped with an alarm striking on a suspended gong, its alarm function reminds divers of when they will need to return to the surfaces, while its ceramic bezel echoes that of the Memovox Deep Sea. Its case - capable of withstanding extreme pressure - and its optimal underwater readability make it a genuine professional instrument. Watch tested for 1000 hours and water-resistant to 30 ATM Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956, created in 2008Mechanical automatic movement, date and alarm. 45-hour power reserve. 28,800 vibrations per hour, 23 jewels, 268 parts, 7.45 mm thick Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy SEALs(Limited series of 1500 in grade 5 titanium)
Created in partnership with the United States Navy SEALs, the concept and the design of this model were directly inspired by the professional equipment of this elite corps of the United States armed forces. One of the rare chronographs able to withstand water pressure down to 1000 metres – equivalent to the weight of a small car – this timepiece that remains perfectly readable under water is a genuine professional instrument. In addition to the date that appears in a window between the 4 and 5 o’clock hour-markers, its mechanical movement also drives a GMT dual time-zone display.Watch tested for 1000 hours and water-resistant to 100 ATM Also available in a limited series of 500 crafted in 18-carat pink gold and water-resistant to 30 ATM Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 757, created in 2009Mechanical automatic movement, with movement operating indicator. Chronograph with 12-hour, 30-minute and 60-second functions, hometime/traveltime, date. 65-hour power reserve, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 45 jewels, 304 parts, 6.26 mm thick MC DIVING Pro Geographic Navy SEALs (Limited series of 300 in 18-carat pink gold)
A technical masterpiece, this timepiece is equipped with a mechanical depth gauge concealed inside a compression chamber positioned on the left-hand outer side of the case. Its movement also powers a multiple time-zone indication, an exceptional feature in a diver’s watch. By simply positioning a city representing the chosen time zone in a window at 6 o’clock instantly displays the time there in a subdial at 9 o’clock. The date is shown in an aperture at 3 o’clock, while the movement operating indicator appears in the lower part of the dial.Watch tested for 1000 hours and water-resistant to 30 ATM
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 979, created in 2007Mechanical automatic movement with depth gauge, 24-hour dual time-zone display (city selector at 6 o’clock), date and movement operating indicator. 48-hour power reserve, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 29 jewels, 274 parts, 7.30 mm thick
© Montblanc
© Montblanc
* Movement Auto Montblanc Cal. 4810-50125 jwls / 48hrs power-reserve
* Case 44mm X 16mm / DLC / black stainless steel
* Glass Double sapphire crystals / anti reflective coating
* Water-resistance 20AMT / 200m
By TLex The new IWC Aquatimer family looks fantastic. There have been plenty of changes including a move back to external bezels. The LE Galapagos Chrono is stunning and as for the Deep 2, wow! I'm in love with the whole range, can't wait to get my hands on them.
Aquatimer Automatic 2000 Its name is a watchword. In terms of water resistance, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 with its tested pressure resistance of 200 bar still holds the record in the watch family. It features a black dial and a black external rotating bezel with the familiar luminous yellow 15-minute segment of the previous Aquatimer in stainless steel.The colour yellow is also used for the minute hand, which indicates the dive time, to ensure a clear distinction. A second variant has a white dial with orange or white numerals on a white or dark blue background on the rotating bezel and an orange hour hand. It is powered by the 30110 calibre automatic movement. The Aquatimer Automatic 2000 is available with an optional stainless steel bracelet or a rubber strap.
Aquatimer Chronograph Sporting the attributes of the new Aquatimer family, such as the external rotating bezel and the bracelet quickchange system, the Aquatimer Chronograph is available in stainless steel – with either a stainless steel bracelet or a rubber strap – in two different dial variants: in the Aquatimer signature colours of black and yellow, or in the striking colour combination of blue and coral red.
The watch in its 44-mm diameter case is pressureresistant to 12 bar. The 79320 calibre chronograph movement records aggregate times up to 12hours on rhodium plated inner dials. In addition to the date, it also has a day display.
Aquatimer Deep Two The diver’s watch with a mechanical depth gauge makes a return after ten years in the form of the Aquatimer Deep Two, pressure-resistant to 12 bar. Like its predecessor, the GST Deep One from 1999, it shows not only the actual dive depth, but also the maximum depth reached during a particular dive. It thus doubles as a complete second safety system alongside the dive computer.
Whereas the GST Deep One was able to measure water depths down to 45 metres, the Aquatimer Deep Two features a semi-circular indicator on the dial, which records depths down to 50 metres. Its pressure measurement system is contained in a second large crown on the left side of the case. The water pressure acts directly on a membrane inside this crown and forces a pin into the interior of the case.
This movement actuates a lever mechanism connected to the measurement hands. However, only the raised tips of the hands at the level of the dial can be seen to move over the indicator scale through a semi-circular slot in the dial. The hands in this case are led around the movement. This is an ingenious solution, which avoids the need for the path of the arbors to pass through the movement. The depth indicator (blue) moves over the white measuring field as the depth of water increases or decreases.
The maximum depth indicator (red) always remains at the greatest depth reached. It can be released by a button underneath the depth-gauge sensor crown on the left side of the case. The Aquatimer Deep Two is the only member of the family with a case diameter of 46 mm.
Aquatimer Chronograph in red gold Of the diver’s chronographs, the Aquatimer Chronograph in red gold stands out particularly in both visual and horological terms. It is the first watch in the Aquatimer family to be equipped with the IWC manufactured 89360 calibre, the chronograph movement developed and built in its entirety by IWC. It is distinguished by its flyback function and the two-hand display of the long stop times on a single inner dial.
The 89360 calibre movement, wound by the IWC doublepawl automatic winding system, is currently regarded as one of the most modern mechanical movements with a stop function, which can also be observed through the sapphire glass back in this sportingly elegant diver’s watch. This watch, which is pressure-resistant to 12 bar, is only available in a 44-mm diameter red gold case with a black rubber strap.
Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands Featuring the same case size and the same automatic drive mechanism (79320 calibre movement) as the Aquatimer Chronograph, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands is a shining example of the revised watch family in every respect.
The matt black stainless steel case, completely coated with vulcanized rubber, the black dial and the strongly contrasting white indications together with the black rubber strap make the watch, which is pressure resistant to 12bar, a conspicuous statement on the wrist. It is the ambassador of a new collaboration between IWC and the Charles Darwin Foundation with its presence on the Galapagos Islands.
From IWC Overview of the Aquatimer watch family 2009
Thanks to its robustness and dependability, the diver’s watch remains the sports watch of choice to this day and doubles as a reliable reserve as the indispensable underwater back up system, even if the dive computer now relieves the underwater sportsman of most of the necessary calculations.
Once again, IWC Schaffhausen has extensively revised, both technically and aesthetically, its family of diver’s watches, first introduced in 1967 under the name Aquatimer and since then further developed on a number of occasions.
This step coincides with a new partnership in support of environmental and marine conservation, which IWC has entered into with the Charles Darwin Foundation in Galapagos to mark the Darwin bicentennial year in 2009. One of the new Aquatimer models, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands, is dedicated specifically to this commitment.
This new environmental commitment by IWC will start in the Darwin anniversary year – 2009 – in which the scientific world will celebrate the bicentenary of the birth of the great British biologist and behavioral scientist, Charles Darwin. He made his fundamental observations on the origin of species mainly on Galapagos, the unique archipelago in the Pacific Ocean, which was never in contact with the mainland at any time in the history of evolution.
Specific animal and plant species not to be found anywhere else on earth evolved here through natural selection as a result of the differences in living conditions – even from one island to the next.
This is also true of the marine life. Yet this 'laboratory of evolution' is massively endangered by settlement, by illegal fishing and by the introduction of animals that are destroying the basis of existence of the indigenous species. The non-profit Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF) has more than 100 interns actively engaged in the conservation of this NESCO World Heritage Site, which is on the 'Red List'. IWC not only backs this cause in non-material ways, but also through a considerable financial contribution to support the CDF in this worthy endeavour.
By TLex Below; Vintage Aquatimer, Porsche Design & IWC Ocean 2000 and the Deep One.
© IWC
