VICTORINOX Swiss Army DIVE MASTER 500

By TLex Here's the full low-down on the revamped 2012 VICTORINOX Swiss Army DIVE MASTER 500 Series that we saw previewed here last month . . .



From VICTORINOX The Dive Master 500 is authentic Swiss Army grade: direct and straightforward, with the critical attributes of a diving instrument, the uncompromising values of a trusted Swiss brand, and the distinct character of a watchmaking modern classic.



For its 2012 re-launch, this rugged individual has gone through a dramatic sea change. Sleeker and more graphic, with a stronger, more immediate identity, the new Dive Master 500 collection combines resolute Swiss Army reliability and robustness with a very contemporary versatility.



While the softer organic color options — black, burgundy, brown, grey, khaki green and white — are drawn from nature, the classic round case is coated in “Black Ice” or gold PVD, as are the horns and the extremely graphic bezel. The innovative coating is a signature feature of Victorinox Swiss Army.



The dial design is uncluttered, with fine vertical lines across the entire face except for a clean circle at the center indicating military time.



The unidirectional bezel 20, 30 and 50 minute markings stand out thanks to the oversized Arabic numerals. The rubberized soft-touch background absorbs the light, creating striking contrasts with the raised and luminous baton and orb hour markers and iconic Victorinox shield.



The minute hand, so crucial in measuring diving autonomy, is arrow-shaped; on some models it is bright orange — the splash of color gives a fresh and modern look.



Different case sizes and colors are available: 4 quartz models in black, burgundy, khaki green (with gold PVD coating) or white, with a 38mm case size, 2 quartz models in white or khaki green with a 43mm case; and 3 grey, red or brown mechanical editions, also 43mm.



Shockproof and water resistant to 500 meters (1,640 feet), the Dive Master 500 is a stylish watch of outstanding quality. Adventurous and urban, it is built for serious work and play.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

- Stainless steel case
- Genuine rubber strap
- Unidirectional rotating bezel with 20-minute indicator
- Water resistant to 50 ATM (500 m / 1650 feet)
- Scratch-resistant triple-coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal
- Luminescent hands and hour and bezel markers
- 3 editions: Quartz movement (Ronda 715.5), 38mm case diameter, Quartz movement (Ronda 715.5), 43mm case diameter or Mechanical self-winding movement (ETA 2892-A2), 43mm case diameter

ANONIMO Professionale Chrono TITANIUM

By TLex This could possibly the ultimate 'nemo' - G5 Ti + DRASS. The new Anonimo Professionale Crono Titano is constructed from Grade 5 Titanium. This has not only made the watch much lighter and more comfortable to wear, but has allowed Anonimo to increase its water-resistance from 1'200m to 2'000m. Anonimo have also increased the watch's durability by treating its fixed bezel with Double Refinished Anonimo Steel Surface or DRASS . . .

From ANONIMO The Professionale Crono is an elite watch that was developed in collaboration with professional divers from the C.N.S. (Cooperazione Nazionale Sommozzatori). Anonimo Firenze presents a new version of this diver’s watch in titanium and Drass.

The watch’s performance is enhanced even further thanks to its titanium grade 5 case. Titanium is just as durable as stainless steel and equally effective in an sea environment, but it is much lighter. Moreover, this titanium watch case can withstand pressures of 200 ATM as compared to 120 ATM for the steel version.

Anonimo Firenze has finished the case with a stainless steel bezel treated with Drass (Double Refinished Anonimo Steel Surface). This is a unique treatment, developed by Anonimo Firenze for darkening the colour of steel. This increases the metal’s resistance to corrosion and at the same time it becomes non-reflective, a camouflage effect that is essential in military settings.

Waterproof to 2,000 metres. Limited edition: 100, numbered.

Suggested retail price: € 8.850

ANONIMO Professionale Chrono GOLD

By TLex ANONIMO’s flagship diver, the Professionale Chrono gets the gold treatment! The case of the new Professionale Crono Oro is for the first time in 15 years crafted from 18 karat gold, more than 120 grams of it. And as if to address the balance Anonimo have used their DRASS ‘Double Refinished Anonimo Steel Surface' treatment for its fixed bezel.

The gold case certainly makes the Professionale a more luxurious watch, but don't be fooled, this is still an incredibly capable diver. It was built in collaboration with the C.N.S.'Cooperative Nazionale Sommozzatori'. And with a water-resistance of 1'200 meters it is still one of the deepest rated chronograph watches on the market. It looks gorgeous!

From ANONIMO With the Professionale Crono Oro, Anonimo Firenze marks its appearance in the world of haute watch making. This prestigious chronograph, with a case in 18 karat gold and drass, has been expertly designed to give it a stylish, masculine look. It is not only beautiful, but also a piece of professional diving equipment.

More than 120 grams of 18 karat gold have been incorporated into the watch case, making it a true luxury item. “Gold is a metal that performs faultlessly in an ocean environment. From a technical point of view, it is actually the best-performing metal under water. As a precious metal, gold is 100% rust free and also hypoallergenic. However, one important reason makes gold a rare choice for use in professional watches: it is extremely expensive. Thanks to the expertise of our workshops, which have been making watch cases since 1939, we have nevertheless succeeded in launching this unique watch,” explains Anonimo Firenze’s David Cypers.

The combination of a stainless steel bezel treated with drass to darken the colour of the metal is a construction method developed especially for this purpose by Anonimo Firenze. The procedure leaves the metal resistant to corrosion as well as non-reflective, a camouflage effect that is essential in military settings.

When Anonimo launched the Millimetri model in 1997, it promised to be the one true high-quality diver’s watch. Even so, each year the collection has seen the addition of a new model that has performed even better and is even more perfect than the ones that have come before. The Anonimo Firenze Professionale one of these. This professional diver’s watch is the product of intensive research and collaboration with the Cooperative Nazionale Sommozzatori (C.N.S.), one of the world’s biggest names in deep sea diving.

Thanks to this collaborative effort with C.N.S., Anonimo Firenze has been able to create a one-of-a-kind diver’s watch. The company had the opportunity to test its watches at extreme depths when professionals divers from the C.N.S. consistently wore Anonimo Firenze watches on their missions. Anonimo Firenze was also able to test one model at a depth of 2,100 metres, attaching it to a radio-operated submarine belonging to the famous Instituto Nazionale de Geofisica e Vulcanologica during a mission on Sicily’s Augusta coast in October 2002.

These tests helped Anonimo Firenze to adapt the models and to develop a diver’s watch like none that professional divers had ever seen before. It was based on that watch that Anonimo then developed its Professionale Crono chronograph, which is watertight to 1,200 metres. In turn, this watch was the starting point for the Professionale Crono Oro, also pressure resistant to 120 ATM.

The Anonimo Firenze Professionale series is a collection of watches that are suitable for professional use in the most extreme of conditions, hence the name Professionale.

Designs adhere to the stringent requirements set by the C.N.S.:

- extreme pressure resistance in watch cases;

- easy to repair in case of emergencies;

- outstanding clarity in the dark and in reduced light;

- an automatic helium release valve that can withstand erroneous operation in stress situations.

Based on these requirements, Anonimo Firenze developed an outsize case for the Professionale, and an automatic movement that has been exhaustively tested. The watch is dependable and ergonomically designed, and features a patented U-lock® locking system that is unusual for the watch industry and based on the deep sea applications typically employed by the C.N.S.

In contrast to traditional watches, this one features a torsion-free locking system that incorporates externally mounted screws. The great advantage of this is that the watch can be opened for adjustment without risk of loss of locking elements.

The Professionale’s helium release valve is fully automatic, eliminating every possibility for error in professional use and in stressful situations.

ANONIMO Carbon Diver DRASS

By TLex ANONIMO have released a new DRASS version of their Carbon Diver, based on their hugely popular entry level dive watch, the Sailor Diver. The new watch boasts a combination of Carbon (for its dial and bezel) and 'Double Refinished Anonimo Steel Surface' or DRASS for an incredibly tough finish . . .

From ANONIMO The Carbon Diver Drass is the brand new version of the successful Sailor Diver, now in a drass and carbon combination. The stainless steel case has been given the exclusive Anonimo drass treatment and is finished with a carbon covered bezel and a dial with printed carbon motif. This is an unusual combination of materials that guarantees exceptional performance.

Drass is an acronym for “Double Refinished Anonimo Steel Surface”. To achieve this, the stainless steel case is treated extensively in-house, causing it to darken and resemble in colour to titanium. This partly chemical procedure was developed to be used by military users as a way of enhancing resistance to corrosion and prevent oxidation. The stainless steel also becomes anti-reflective, a camouflage effect which is essential in military settings.

The bezel has a carbon cover and the dial is printed with carbon motif, adding a sporty touch. The use of carbon in this manner is new to Anonimo Firenze, but a perfect match for a brand that is famous for extensive research into new, high-performance materials for watch cases and parts. Light, highly resistant and exceedingly strong, it has proven its usefulness in shipbuilding and other sectors many times over.

This watch from the Anonimo Firenze Sports line has been designed for recreational divers and sailors, and is waterproof to 300 metres.

Limited edition: 300, numbered. Suggested retail price: € 2.350

ANONIMO 'Dino Zei' San Marco BRONZE

By TLex ANONIMO will celebrate two important anniversaries this year: their 15th birthday and Dino Zei's 40th year in the watch industry. To mark these occasions they have launched at Baselworld the new Dino Zei San Marco BRONZE. A fitting tribute when you consider that Dino Zei was the sole Director of Officine Panerai during the days when bronze was first pioneered for use in dive watch construction.

For my knowledge only Panerai were using bronze in those days for dive watches. A very small number of bronze prototypes were built by them in the early 80s for use by the Italian Navy. These watches which never went into production were resurrected almost a quarter of a century later by two former Panerai engineers Alessandro Bettarini and Luciano Nincheri, who after leaving Paneria went on to establish the ENNEBI brand in 2004.

When the Vendôme group took over Panerai in 1997 a number of veteran dive watch engineers as well as Dino Zei stayed behind at the Florentine watch company, which was to become Anonimo. Anonimo have continued to use bronze for many of their models and were in many ways (through their history) one of the pioneers of bronze. Later on Dino Zei collaborated with Anonimo to produce his own line of watches. The highlight of this collection, the San Marco was created in collaboration with former San Marco brigade commander, Franco Zavattaro . . .

From ANONIMO Anonimo Firenze’s Dino Zei San Marco Bronze is an excellent reflection of Anonimo Firenze’s rich history. This model is illustrative of the driving passion of Anonimo Firenze: to remain in control of time, even in the most extreme conditions. With a brand new case in aluminium bronze, Anonimo Firenze has added new sport values to the elegant military style of the Dino Zei line in celebration of the company’s 15th birthday.

Dino Zei has developed this high-performance watch together with the former commander of the San Marco brigade, Franco Zavattaro. Typically for the Anonimo Firenze Dino Zei San Marco, this edition also features a robust monobloc case and a bezel with five exposed screws.

Anonimo Firenze crafted the watch case in bronze for the anniversary edition of the Dino Zei San Marco. This exceptional model shows off the great creative expertise of the Anonimo Firenze Dino Zei line. “The San Marco Bronze marks the introduction of a techno vintage material, aluminium bronze, in this Dino Zei model, which has been developed by and for military personnel. The San Marco is the very top of the Dino Zei line,” explains Antoinio Ambuchi (R&D department of Firenze Orologi). “Aluminium bronze is an alloy typically used in maritime applications such as propellers for ships, and by incorporating it into the watch we have lifted its performance to an entirely new level.”

In addition, this model is illustrative of the refined, dynamic style of Anonimo Firenze’s Dino Zei line. Its dark brown face, with fluorescent numbers and markings, reflects the elegant military style for which Anonimo Firenze is so well known. With its combination of a bronze case and a wrist strap in salt water resistant Kodiak® calfskin, this watch will appeal to men whose taste dictates subtle, distinguished design.

The Anonimo Firenze Dino Zei San Marco Bronze has been produced in a limited edition series of 300.

Suggested retail price: € 8.400.

BULOVA Precisionist 98B168 FirstLook

By TLex BULOVA have released a new Precisionist Diver. The 300M water-resistant BULOVA Precisionist 98B168 boasts a specialized bezel locking system . . .

Das Boot WATCHES

By TLex Introducing 'DAS BOOT' Watches, a new creation from the same people that bought us the current depth record holder, the legendary 20'000 FEET, CX Swiss Military Watch™ and MontresCharmex SA.

The first three models have been released, but the best is yet to come! In a few months time DAS BOOT will release other high-quality divers watches, amongst them, mechanical models and a professional divers watch with a water-resistance of 500 meters.

Some 30 years after the film classic "DAS BOOT" was released, it continues to inspire fans all over the world and was the inspiration for this new line in rugged sports and diving watches. These are the first and only watches to have been produced under the brand name DAS BOOT. The legal owners of the name, Bavaria Sonor were approached by Manfred and Frank Bürgin, the owners of MontresCharmex SA, who persuaded them to support the entire range of watches. This is just the start of a highly unusual watch collection . . .

DAS BOOT Watches have released the first three models in their new collection, which are the Captain DATE, the Captain CHRONO and the Kids SWORDFISH. All three models are Swiss Made® with black PVD coated Stainless steel cases. The two Captain's models have sapphire crystals and are water-resistant to 20atm or 200m. The Kids model has a hardened mineral glass and is water-resistant to 10atm or 100m.

All three models are powered by Quartz calibers. The two Cpatian's models house Swiss made Ronda movements: the Ronda Kal. 515 Date and the Ronda Kal. 5030 Chronograph. The Kids SWORDFISH is powered by a Japanese made Citizen 2115 Date.

The watches are presented on either a black or red natural rubber divers strap with a black PVD steel buckle.

For further information on DAS BOOT Watches please follow the Swordfish logo below . . .

BALL Watch Co. Engineer Master II SKINDIVER

By TLex BALL Watch resurrect their historic diving watch from 1962 . . .

From BALL Since 1891, BALL Watch has been manufacturing timepieces that meet the most stringent criteria for precision, quality and reliability. Over the years, BALL Watch has also produced several watchmaking instruments specifically for deep-sea diving enthusiasts. In unveiling the new Engineer Master II Skindiver, BALL Watch has revived a vibrant part of its watchmaking heritage.

The first “BALL Skindiver” timepiece was designed in 1962 in response to the growing popularity of deep-sea diving in the United States where BALL watches originated. The launch of this new watch followed closely in the wake of the creation of the Underwater Society of America in 1959. This public diving organization aimed to promote the sport and diving education; it also organizes competitions. A practice dating back several thousand years, diving developed as a sport and method for exploring the seabed after the Second World War. It gradually split into two codes: scuba diving and skin diving or free diving.

For many years, BALL Watch has played a legitimate role as a pioneering designer of diving watches, especially through its extraordinary partnership avec Guillaume Néry the holder of many constant weight free diving world championship titles. This extraordinary human and technical adventure was the source of inspiration for the creation of an entire range of diving watches in the forefront of modern watchmaking technology. BALL Watch is proud to add to its Engineer Master II collection a new model that pays direct homage to its own history and that of deep-sea exploration. The Engineer Master II Skindiver has also been released to coincide with the golden jubilee of the launch of its first diving watch.

This timepiece audaciously combines an undeniably vintage design echoing the 1960s with contemporary watchmaking codes and techniques. With a diameter of 40.5mm and a height of 14.3mm, the stainless steel case and its rubber strap sit easily on the wrist while allowing total freedom of movement. Fundamental feature of any diving watch, water resistance to 300 meters is in particular guaranteed by the screwed caseback and screw-in crown. Robust, the Engineer Master II Skindiver has also been constructed to withstand shocks with a force of up to 5,000 Gs and magnetic fields with an intensity of up to 4,800 A/m. Synonymous with precision and exactitude, the ETA 2836-2 automatic movement delivers all the watch’s basic functions: hours minutes and seconds, as well as the day and date.

Another key feature of a diving watch, the black dial is devoid of any superfluous detail to ensure essential diving information is immediately visible. The time is instantly read from the stand-out dial graduation and digital indexes. Echoing its predecessor, the dial includes the original “Skindiver” inscription that appeared on the 1962 model.

Spaced at five-minute intervals, the dial indexes are paired with double micro-tubes of 3H luminous gas. Also applied to the hands, this state-of-the-art Swiss technology ensures the watch’s indications remain visible even in the darkness of the deep. Iconic feature of the high technical performance of all BALL watches, these micro tubes do not require any external source of light and are up to 100 times more effective than conventional luminescent paint.

The large rotating bezel fitted with a black aluminum ring makes also the dive time countdown time an easy operation. Its unidirectional rotation is a further guarantee of basic safety for any diving instrument as it prevents any accidental handling that would extend the dive time available before having to return to the surface.

BREITLING Superocean HÉRITAGE GOLD

By TLex Breitling's use of 18k Red GOLD for the bezel inlays and handsets of these Superocean HÉRITAGE GOLD models is optimum, the perfect balance of contrast and color. I think I'm in love . . .

BREITLING Superocean HÉRITAGE Chrono 44

By TLex Here's the new BREITLING Superocean HÉRITAGE Chrono 44 just in case you missed it the other day!

SWAROVSKI Octea Abyssal DIVER

By TLex Probably one of the most surprising dive watch discoveries of Basel 2012 is this new mens' diver from Austrian, crystal specialist Swarovski. Surprising, not because Swarovski are a jewelry company and as such wouldn't know how to create an attractive utilitarian diver if their lives depended on it, because some can and do. But because of its innovative use of color for the case. Anyone remember the KREMKE concept DIVER?

The new SWAROVSKI Octea Abyssal Automatic is available with two case materials. A stainless steel case with either a satin or black PVD finish. Or a radical looking matte orange finished aluminum case. Both cases measure 44mm in diameter and are fitted with scratch-resistant, non-reflective sapphire crystals and are water-resistant to 200 meters. They sport black faceted ceramic bezels engraved with Arabic numerals in white, black, or orange. The caseback has an engraving of the SWAROVSKI Swan logo.  

The crowns which have been designed in such a way as to compliment the bezel teeth are also decorated with the SWAROVSKI Swan logo in polished stainless steel and then outlined in black enamel. The dials are in either matte white or black with rounded or triangular SuperLumiova applied hour markers. There's a black date indicator at 4.30. The watches are fitted with a black rubber strap with a polished and satin finished stainless steel or black PVD folding clasp, engraved with the Swarovski name.

I really want to like the Octea Abyssal, I actually do. The orange case is so unique and so apt for a dive watch. Not sure how the aluminum will hold up, though? It has an attractive rounded case with angular lugs with a black crystal centerpiece least we forget this is a Swarovski diver. The dial and bezel markers are minimal. Even the handset looks good.

But I can't get past the retched Swan logo. I can live with the swan on the caseback and the crown. I can even take the embossed swan on the rubber strap, but the Swan logo on the dial kills it for me, stone dead, I'm afraid. Nevertheless for a girlie brand like SWAROVSKI to come up with such a clean and rugged design is a pleasantly refreshing surprise, bravo!  

BALL Watch Co. Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU

By TLex Ball Watch Co. continue to innovate with more new dive watch technology . The new Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU is the world's first diving watch with a helium release valve incorporated into its crown . . .

From BALL The “Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU)” is the unit of the United States Navy responsible for rolling out operational diving and decompression rules for the United States Armed Forces. It assesses the systems and procedures involved in surviving hyperbaric and diving environments. Applying the same principle of “Safety First” adopted from its very beginnings by BALL Watch for its timekeepers, the NEDU's experiments have enabled new procedures and new equipments to be developed to increase diving safety.

In particular, the NEDU established the decompression timetables that are a vital reference for all divers. In the same way, BALL Watch played a pioneering role in watchmaking by laying down as early as the end of the 19th century chronometric standards used as the basis for the reference today’s standards.

BALL Watch has therefore quite naturally dedicated to the NEDU this new model which immediately strikes as being a powerful and characterful chronograph, both sporty and stylish. All aspects of this timepiece have been designed for its use by professional divers for whom each second may be of crucial importance. Attention has in particular been paid to the rotating bezel and its ergonomic contours ensuring precise handling even when wearing diving gloves. The bezel’s unidirectional rotation avoids the dire consequences that could result from any accidental movement when counting down underwater time.

Designed in chromed pure black ceramic, the bezel is exceptionally resistant to corrosion, scratches and ultraviolet rays. Additionally, the numerals and graduation have voluntarily been oversized to make them immediately legible. A pioneer in ceramic processing, BALL Watch again uses its innovative application process for powerful luminous paint on the ceramic bezel indications.

A fundamental characteristic of any diving watch, the water resistance of this model is guaranteed to a depth of 600 meters thanks to the rugged construction of its case which is 17.3mm at its thickest for a diameter of 42mm. The case back is stamped with a diver motif echoing NEDU's official emblem. A world first in watchmaking, the automatic helium release valve has been directly incorporated into the crown. This patented BALL innovation has eradicated a potential surface liable to warp under the effects of water pressure, thereby improving the chronograph’s water resistance even further. The crown itself is fitted with a patented protection system that is used on all Engineer Hydrocarbon models.

The heart of the watch houses the benchmark chronograph caliber with an ETA 7750 automatic movement that can measure and indicate a lapse of time of up to 12 hours. COSC certification is proof of the absolute precision of the hours, minutes, seconds and day and date display of this chronometer movement.

To remain visible even in the darkness of the deep, the dial’s indexes and hands are naturally fitted with luminous micro tubes of 3H gas. This state-of-the-art Swiss technology, the iconic signature of all BALL watches, requires no external source of light or energy while being up to 100 times more efficient than conventional luminous paints. BALL Watch has further improved this process by attaching the dial micro tubes to metal appliques.

The new patented process enhances the effect of the micro tubes while also improving the diffusion of the light generated by the tritium gas. The voluntarily restrained design of the dial and the contrast between the graduation, seconds hand and hands on the sub-dials provide the ultimate assurance of excellent legibility of all the indications provided on this model.

Another specific feature of this model are the two chamfers cut into the case flange supporting the bezel that act like “drains” to facilitate the outflow of any water that may become lodged between these components. This ingenious addition thought up by BALL Watch also helps combat any possible corrosion effect. The Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU is also protected from shocks with a force of up to 7,500Gs and magnetic fields to an intensity of 4,800A/m. All these protection measures and systems make this a truly robust chronograph.

Alongside the rubber strap that is by definition used on any diving watch, this model is also available with a stainless steel and titanium bracelet with BALL Watch’s patented triple folding buckle. The extension system means the watch can be easily and safely worn on the wrist even over a diving suit. With the new Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU, BALL Watch has again confirmed its undeniable place among diving watch designers.