Showing posts with label pictorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pictorial. Show all posts

Catalog Sunday

Oops and a half! Sorry about no Catalog Sunday last week. Just doing the business, you know!
Don't forget, Two weeks remain on my Kickstarter! Lets make this happen everyone! I'd love to multi-size my line!

Have a great Sunday!


Catalog Sunday

This Sunday I have pattern book covered that I've scanned into PDFs that will be available in my store this coming week (shameless plug!!). Enjoy!

Sewing Karma follow up

I must have pretty righteous karma after all.

I'm sure you all remember my stories of pattern and sewing woes from last month. I talked about the void in which I lost a few patterns I was really excited about. I was sad, mostly for a McCall that I so desperately wanted, and a 30s cape dress that I was in love with, still am. Well, I guess I had some built up karma points, because although things didn't work out as linear as one would expect, it all came to a heartwarming conclusion.

The amazing cape dress will soon be in my possession.

The friend of mine who won it is allowing me to buy it from her! Yay! You have no idea how happy I am about that!

My second pattern woe was when I purchased two patterns form one eBay seller that got lost in the mail. I got them for a bargain, so I wasn't too distraught, but I so wanted the style of one. *sigh* The seller, was a champ. She refunded me and looked in her supply and FOUND an exact copy, size and all, of one of the two patterns I purchased.

Yay #2.

Secondly, she found a nearly complete copy of the McCall that I truly wanted. What are the odds!?

Promptly she sent them, and when I opened the package, I discovered three more complete patterns from the late 40s each 40 bust and over. Yay #3! I even contacted the seller to see if I could give her something for all the patterns as I thought her gift was so generous. She said no and just enjoy them. I plan to!

Oh, its not over yet. The McCall that was partial was only missing the front and back bodice. That wouldn't be too hard to make shift. But, it seems I won't have to. One of my lovely blog readers from Italy sent me an email saying she had that exact pattern, only a smaller size.

Yay #4!

So she mails it to me, but its not alone. Seems she has some extra patterns that she said she will never get around to altering. So she sent them.

Lovely late 30s/ early 40s dresses, my favorite eras. Yay #5!
I'm exhausted from all these yays!

How sweet is that!? I was near tears looking through them. She wrote a note saying she was moved by my VPP section of adding back to the collecting pool. I thought that was so lovely, and she's right. We all should spread the pattern love around.

In the spirit in which these patterns were given, I'm going to offer two of them as give-aways in the near future (like a week or so). You heard me right, a late 30s and an early 40s dress patterns in a 40 bust...Im going to make sure they go to a great home and give them away.

I think we all should offer up the occasional pattern we like (and I do like these!) to someone who can use and/or love them just as much if not more than we would.

What a surprise all of this was! You think something is going to end one way,
and you go in a complete circle and end up better for it.

Thanks for the patterns, Suzanne. And thanks just as much for the kindness. :)

Happy sewing everyone!

Sewing Karma

This has been a relatively crappy few days in the sewing world for me. Not projects gone bad, that I could handle, more like crazy slapstick meets missed destiny movie stuff. Surreal.

It started this past weekend as I began to sew on the new blouse (see previous post). As a general rule, you are suppose to change your sewing needle after every project. Well, Im not that good about that, but I remember getting some nice new needles, and this rayon/polly blend would need a nice crisp needle. Also, I had finished...what did I finish? Well I finished something, and I wanted to start this new project off right. So I got out my tin of needles and plucked a fresh one from the packet.

Mmm, needlie goodness. The shaft on my Singer has a lovely turn screw, so changing the needle is a snap. I removed the foot and lower shaft (my machine is a slanted shank), and unscrewed the old needle. Its a process Ive done many many times and takes no longer than two eye blinks. No so this time.

*drop*

As I was tightening the needle, it dropped clean into the gears of the bobbin. What!? In all my years of sewing, that has never happened. So I unplug the machine, and remove the cover plate of the feed dogs. Damn feed dogs. I didn't want to turn any gears because with my luck, that little needle would have landed in the one spot that would constitute a three figure repair if I even thought about it.

The needle dropped in so it would drop out, right? I picked up the machine and began turning it upside down thinking gravity, the force that had put me in this mess would right its own wrong.

*drop*

The loose needle then dropped into the top gears. I couldn't see the look on my face, but I could feel it. After the flash thought of a camera being hidden in the kitchen looking at me recording this for some web spoof show, I set the sewing machine back down and got out the screwdriver.

I had to remove the top plastic casing then the side casing covering the shaft and light in order to get to where this refugee needle was hiding. But I couldn't find it. I shook the machine and I could hear it rattling, but couldn't see it. So I did it again, I turned the machine over and...

*drop*

What is this? A mysterious bar fell out of my machine. I almost wish there had been a video camera in my kitchen then. Well, perhaps not, I was spewing the salty talk something awful. For twenty minutes I looked to try and *find* where this piece went. No clue. So then I said fuck it, Im gonna turn on the machine.

I taped up the cover of the feed dogs (I learned my lesson), and hand cranked the machine. Same old lovely noises. I looked over the gears and belts and cranks. Everything was going as it should. I plugged her in and pressed the gas slowly. As I held the mystery bar the machine hummed at it's expected pace. So far so good but where is that damn needle? Aw well, while Im in here, I might as well clean out the lint.

Lemonade, I say.

So I cleaned my machine and put the plastic lid back on but couldn't screw in the last two screws. THATS WHAT THIS PIECE IS! Its the brace for the screws! Whew! So I can take that vision of something coming loose and making my machine explode as I finished the last stitch on my evening gown out of my head. Yay.

The machine is clean, working and sounding normal. Lovely. But where the hell is that rogue needle? I stand up after a defeated sigh and there behind the machine on the table resting rather glibly I would say was that flippin' needle.

I won't admit it defeated me so I threw it in the trash.

*************

You know how when you find a pattern so amazing, so stupendous, you can't sleep until it's in your warm and waiting hands? This past week I've had that experience twice, and twice I've been let down.

Look at it.


Keep looking and allow the awesomeness of its presence to wash over you. Almost like it's singing, "I am awesome!!!! La lala.."

I was on a high when I found this pattern. So excited I told everyone, shouted from village to dell. Could not *wait* to get it. I was picking out fabric and imagining the stares of jealousy I would get when I walked into a supper club wearing that ensemble. I was ready.

Euphoria ended when the seller contacted me saying she could not find the pattern.

What? Can't find it? I was almost a blathering idiot telling her how much I coveted this pattern and how I desperately wished for it for years. Don't get me wrong, the seller was stellar, very nice and accommodating, but that didn't help. Stupid missing dream pattern.

What also didn't help as a friend contacting me yesterday saying she had found the *exact* pattern on another site. Same size, same blemishes on the envelope...? What?

Lookit the two pictures.


The tears in the corners and the crease in the lower right corner. That's kind of creepy, right? So after Holy Crapping to my friend, I contact the seller of my pattern. Even sent her the link to the listing of the other pattern. Now it gets strange.

She tells me I bought a *completely* different pattern, a Vogue, and that's the one she can't find. I'm shaking my head, so I send her the PDF listing of what I bought from her which is the same pattern that showed up on the other site. After that my money was promptly refunded with a promise that if the pattern is found she will let me know. Thank you kind merchant.

The worst case scenario is that the seller may have sold the pattern to someone who is selling it again. I honestly don't think its a double sell. Not for a $9 difference. The good news is that my friend told me she would let me buy it from her so yay indeed!

That was a horrible experience, but remember, I said I had this experience twice this month.


I could not wait for this pattern. I had plans to repro it, its that wicked. I even have fabric just like the fabric of the one on the left. See!!!??


Come on! I was gonna carry around a picture of this pattern showing people how exactly alike the would-be dress I was going to make is to this original pattern envelope. Perfection. I just had to wait. A little longer...a bit more...it's not coming. *sigh*

Apparently they are stalled or lost in the United States Postal System. I'd be more patient, but it does not take 15 days to ship something first class in state. *sigh*

This seller, who again, like the other one, was very, very accommodating. She looked through her inventory and found a duplicate but no bodice or envelope! WAHHH!!!!! And so my plan of carrying the pattern picture around has been foiled. I would say that is for the best, but no. I will remember. I will always remember.

So I'm back to waiting for these plan B patterns to arrive. I'm sewing (with a new needle) and hoping that the plan B's are not needed and that the original patterns all come out of hiding and say, "Just kidding here we are! We love you!".

I love you guys too.

The Vintage Pattern Primer: Reading Vintage Patterns.

For a lot of people starting the venture of sewing, the idea of following pattern instructions and not forgetting something can be daunting. With vintage patterns, that concept can be 10x of a challenge. Depending on the type of vintage pattern you start to sew with, a whole set of mental tricks might be needed in order to keep things straight.

I guess now would be a good time to urge all to please PLEASE trace off your pattern before using it. Pretty please!

There are essentially three types of vintage patterns: The unprinted perforated pattern, the printed pattern, and my personal favorite, the printed perforated pattern.

Learning the secrets in how to read each of these presentations can help you pretty much make the instructions irrelevant. Now don't we all want to be at that point?

-The unprinted perforated pattern.
The oldest of the patterns.

The most traditional presentation of vintage patterns, and for many who are starting to sew, the most frightening. Not so, I say! All patterns have their own language. From individual pieces, to pattern manufacturer, unprinted patterns often have to be looked over. Even so, there are still some basic consistencies that are threaded (no pun intended) across the board.

Take this sleeve piece for instance. A couple of things I've discovered with these type of patterns seem to be universal.

1) Generally the pattern ID will be found in the lower right of the pattern piece (the unprinted pieces I've shown are all on their side, but I'm sure you get the idea). It can be a number, a letter, which is the norm, or you can get an annoying 40s Vogue where they perforated entire WORDS onto their pieces! I've also seen some mail orders do that for some instructions as well.

This rarely helps when you are looking for a pattern and its all wadded and folded in its envelope, but from the hundreds of pieces I've looked over, a creepy majority are identified in that space.

2) Sleeves can be confusing. Which way is which? At least I often have that problem. I've found out over 90% of the time, the double notch is an indication that that side is the back. Go ahead, check the back bodice piece it goes with. I've only found on e obscure 20s pattern that didn't follow this rule. Id say those are pretty good odds. A good mnemonic device I came up with is to look at the two pointed notches as the letter B laying on its side. B is for back! HA! I need to do stuff like that or I am all turned around.

I tend to like sleeve patterns that have the center mark in the cap of the sleeve. Its a great thing to have especially if the sleeve is gathered. Also, to compensate the elbow, often two notches or a dart are marked on some patterns. I remember when I was first sewing, too lame to throughly read the directions, Id say, "What the frick is this sleeve doing so lop sided!?" Then Id just cut off the uneven cuff. Oh how silly I was...

To get a sense of the overall markings of a pattern, those handy diagrams that are given in every unprinted pattern always mark the center lines, the places where the pattern is to be on the fold (often marked with two or three large circles, or three circles forming a triangle which is a marking I always use to mark the fold).

Grain lines are generally a series of three small groupings of dots, or two rather large dots spaced out on the pattern piece.

Other odd markings that can appear can be in the shape of ovals, squares, even triangles. They are often marking where a placket should be, outlining seam allowances, or where to fold a pleat. There generally isn't anything too special that would warrant such an elaborate shape, but perhaps there were too many circles and such on said pattern that pattern makers though women might get confused. I wouldn't put it past them.

-The Printed Pattern.
To tell you the truth, these are my least favorite. I find them overly complicated, and wordy. One thing is, they are often printed on one flat sheet making the buyer cut out each shape. Going to that from perfectly shaped unprinted patterns just creates an extra step. I've never understood the need to mark seam allowance on a pattern. The instruction page will always tell you the SA, so why have it on the pattern? I think it just creates an overly complex maze of lines to follow and really, who is ever going to transfer that onto their fabric?

In the 20s, McCall came out with their incredibly beautiful 'printed patterns'.

I find they are so lush, so elaborate, they could be famed. But to work with? So much over information. Everything was printed on the pattern pieces. Everything. Every word, every sentence, every instruction. See how cluttered it is? I can bet these were all the rage. Even the notches, where you match pattern piece to pattern piece are numbered! What woman wouldn't want to have a pattern that lists all you are to do on the pieces? But I often wonder how much of that information was genuinely used.

From the 30s on McCall pretty much refined their process of completely printed patterns, ditching the blueprint novelty look for one that we pretty much know today.

But there was another type of printed pattern, one that used the best of both worlds. The visual of the perforated pattern, with the ease of the printed.

-The Printed Perforated Pattern.
I LOVE this type of pattern.

They seem to be very sporadic, having been used by some of the lesser known pattern makers like Pictorial as early as the 30s, and then surprisingly by Simplicity exclusively in the early to mid 40s before they switched to all printed. I just find their use of this such a divot in the timeline of pattern history.

I wonder why Simplicity did it. Can you imagine, the marked notches along with the actual notches, the pieces already cut out, the grain lines printed on the pieces, each piece labeled often with its pattern size? Wonderful.

So there you have it, the languages of vintage pattern pieces all laid out for your viewing pleasure. I thank you for your time.
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