Purple Robe and Anemones

Well, hello there, old blog!  It's been a while, hasn't it?  I thought this latest project I worked on deserved a real bona fide blog post. So here it is.  And boy, is it a long one.  I wanted to keep all my info in one place, so just skim if you are not interested in the whole lengthy process.

I have been inspired by Matisse's artwork since I was a kid.  I remember the painting Robe Violette et Anemones hanging in my elementary art classroom.  For as long as I have been sewing, I have wanted to create my own version of Matisse's purple robe.   The whole 'quarantine art' social media trend gave me the push to do it.  In fact, a local arts festival, Artisphere, put out a contest to recreate a famous work of art at home like the 'between art and quarantine' hashtag that I think originated with the Getty Museum. Years ago, I came across an article talking about an exhibition of Matisse's paintings displayed along side of a collection of his textiles.  Matisse was a textile lover (and aren't we all around here!).  He grew up in a textile region of France and his studio was filled with fabric, clothing, weavings and wall hangings.  Some of his textile items show up in multiple paintings, like the purple robe.  There is an exhibition catalog titled, Matisse: His Art And His Textiles that is amazing.  I ordered it when I began this project.  The book is full of photos and beautiful examples of Matisse's textile collection.  There is even a photo of the real purple robe. If you are a fan of Matisse's work, I highly recommend the book.  

The biggest issue with making myself a purple striped robe was finding the right fabric.  Over the years I have bought purple fabric a couple of times thinking I could paint the white stripes.  I even thought maybe I could bleach them.  I actually had a length of purple linen in my stash for a long time specifically earmarked for this.  I pulled it out and tried painting the white stripes with fabric paint and it looked bad. Extremely homemade.  I tried bleaching a little piece but it only bleached to pink.  I figured I'd have to dye the stripes to get the look I was going for.  I almost pulled out my batik supplies but I wasn't sure I'd have the time nor the means to get the wax out, so I looked in to painting with Procion dyes instead.

Believe it or not, I had everything I needed to do this except for the sodium alginate, which I ordered via amazon.  Apparently it's used in cooking. This truly was done with things I had at home. I had the deep purple Procion dye and the things needed to mix with it (urea and soda ash).  For the fabric, I had a leftover piece of white rayon challis that I had been using to line things.  I laid it out and rough cut it to fit my pattern pieces.  I used Burda 6740, a pattern from my stash- which again, I think I bought a while back just to do this purple robe.  I only had enough fabric for the fronts, sleeves and facings so I planned on using the printed rayon for the back and belt from the beginning.  I like a bit of print mixing anyway.

When it came to mixing the dye to paint with, I used the recipe from the Dharma Trading Company website to make the 'chemical water.'  I mixed 3/4 cups of urea in to about 4 cups of water.  I mixed it in a big glass jar.  From what I understand, the urea keeps the dye from drying too fast once it's been painted on the fabric.  Then I mixed in about 4 teaspoons of sodium alginate.  The sodium alginate is a thickener which keeps your dye from spreading.  I could have used more sodium alginate.  I let that mixture sit overnight before mixing up the dye.

The next day, I separated half of chemical water and mixed up my purple dye.  I used 3ish teaspoons of deep purple and 2 teaspoons of soda ash.  Soda ash is necessary for the chemical reaction between the dye and fiber (hence 'fiber reactive dyes').  Once you mix in the soda ash, you have to use your dye right away.  And so I painted my stripes.  

I laid each piece of fabric out on a piece of a plastic drop cloth and painted long vertical purple stripes.  I tried to leave enough space in between each purple stripe so the white would remain.  In hindsight, I could have used a smaller brush to make smaller stripes, but that also would have taken me even longer.  Doing these three pieces of fabric took about an hour and half.  It was a little tedious.  I did get some ripply edges because the dye would pool underneath the fabric on the plastic.  It would have been better to have something absorbent underneath, but I don't mind the ripples.  I wanted the stripes to look painterly like the Matisse painting.

After painting, I left the fabric to sit overnight underneath another piece of plastic (to keep it from drying all the way).  I actually sandwiched all three pieces on top of one another with their respective pieces of plastic.  Now, when I was painting the stripes, it was that beautiful deep purple that I was hoping for.  The next day, however, it was much lighter.

I rinsed out all three pieces the next morning until the water ran clear (with gloves in my bathtub).  Then I washed in the washing machine with some synthrapol.  When I took the fabric out to dry, it had faded to a pretty violet-red and had a faint blue halo around all the edges of the stripes.  I still thought it was pretty and planned to use it, but it didn't turn out exactly as I had envisioned.

I read around online to try and figure out what happened and came across a great website with tons of info about hand dyeing. One article I found interesting was that some dyes are pure color while some are mixtures. In mixtures of color, sometimes the two colors react with the fiber at different rates, which is what I am assuming happened here.  The website also specifically mentions fuschia reacting faster than blue, meaning the blue will travel longer and create that blue halo.  So that's probably what happened.  I do like the blue halo anyway.

After the fabric was dry, I cut out my pattern pieces and sewed.  The pattern was pretty straight-forward, though there was a little bit of hand sewing the facing at the back neckline.  I tried to avoid hand sewing whenever possible.  I made a medium and left off the pockets, no other modifications.

I was super pleased with how it turned out.  Not only did I plan to recreate the Matisse painting, Robe Violette et Anemones, but I also planned to use my robe for real (and I have been using it with all my time at home lately).  I spent an embarrassing amount of time staging my living room to snap a photo.  I hung pieces of fabric and party streamers on the wall behind my couch and made anemones with tissue paper and pipe cleaners.  My daughter helped.

After I finished everything, I decided to use the leftover piece of printed rayon (the back of the robe) to make myself some pajamas.  I mean, if I'm going to lounge around in my beautiful hand painted purple robe, I might as well have some swanky pj's to go along with it, right?  I used every scrap of the printed rayon to make an Ogden cami and elastic waist bottoms using Simplicity 1112, which is now OOP, unfortunately. 

I'm late to the Ogden cami game, but I love it.  This is the first one I've made but there will be many  more.  This is a size 12 graded out to a 14 under the bust.  Next time I'll add an inch or two of length and I'd like to experiment with making a wider strap.  The pants pattern I've used too many times to count (see my faux jumpsuit from a couple of years ago).  I cut a 16 but added a smidge more to the hip area (weight gain, yay).  I used every bit of fabric I had, so there is no pattern matching anywhere and the length hit just below my knee.  I wanted more length, so I found a teeny, tiny scrap of a cotton and steel rayon (leftover from a romper I made for my daughter) and added to the hems.  I love the end result. And all from the stash! Woo hoo. 

If you made it to the end here, you are a champion. 😆 All in all, it was a fun and really rewarding project where I got to combine my love for art and sewing together.  And bonus, I get to look pretty fancy while I sit around my house and sip my tea during this time (but not with my mask on).  Stay safe and healthy, friends!

Shirt Dress For A Bump

Here are a few more things I made for the growing belly this summer.  All of these were for back to work.  I've worn the shirt dresses a bunch of times already, but haven't worn the separate pieces at all.  The best part about all of these pieces is that they don't look like maternity clothes (I think?) and I definitely plan to wear them after baby is here.  The shirt dresses in particular will come in handy when I have to go back to work after giving birth.  Don't ask me why I seem so prepared for all of this baby business!  I'm really not.  At least I'm not prepared in any other aspect of life. But I guess my wardrobe is prepared.  Ha! I did get all summer to think about what to sew and then had the time to do it, so that helped.

Pattern Description: The pattern is one I've made before, McCalls 7314.  In fact, when I blogged about this particular dress before, I actually noted that it would be a great maternity pattern.  And it is!  It's a typical shirtwaist dress but with a raised, curved waist seam.  It's perfect for a growing bump. And I will absolutely be wearing my very first version when the weather gets a little cooler (it's below).  I left the elastic out of the back waist in that version but I like how it looks with tights and boots. The sleeves are from a different pattern.

Pattern Sizing: 6-22.  I made a 14.  

Fabric Used: I made the navy, shibori print dress first.  It's a rayon poplin that I bought from fabric.com a while back.  I've seen many other folks with the same fabric and for good reason.  It's really nice stuff.  I think rayon poplin might be my favorite dress fabric.  It's got great drape but is way sturdier than rayon challis and totally opaque.  I made the black and white gingham version next.  It is a rayon challis I've had for a while, too.  The top version is a plain white rayon challis that I bought yards of when Hancock closed down.  And the pants are made from the leftover rayon poplin from my very first version of the dress above.  I'm trying to sew through some of my stash as my fabric closet is going to be new baby's closet.  I've got to downsize!  I'll make some quick notes about the pants at the bottom of this post. 

Alterations/ Deviations: The navy shibori print dress has almost no alterations except my standard square shoulder adjustment. I played around with the shoulder fit more on the gingham version (and the armscye), but honestly, I think the shoulders look better on the navy version.  I also played around with button placement on the gingham version but I like it better per the pattern.  The gingham dress is longer, too.  About three inches, I think.  I spent forever matching up the checks on the gingham when I cut out pattern pieces.  The bodice looks decent but there is a little slant to the skirt. Oh well.  It was not fun to cut out.  I made the blouse last.  It's okay.   I put the elastic in the back waist of both dresses but did not like it in the top version.  So I left it loose and billowy.  The top version seems to fit so much larger for some reason.   Maybe fabric choice- cheap fabric, looser weave.

Likes/ Dislikes:  I love both dress versions. The curved waist seam is just perfect for a belly.  I plan to wear both dresses after baby, too.  I'm hoping the buttons will make it nursing friendly.  Like I said before, the blouse and pants haven't been worn at all.  I think I like both pieces separately, but not together.  It's too much fabric to wear at once.  I'll wear the blouse with a skinnier bottom but I'll probably just save the pants for later.  You can't tell in these photos, but the blouse has fun buttons.  They are clear with glitter.

And just some quick notes about the pants:  They are Butterick 5893.  I made view A, the straight leg version with side seam pockets.  I cropped mine.  I also shortened the rise a little bit.  They have an elastic waist.  They feel nice to wear in rayon poplin again, but I'm not sure what sort of top to wear them with.  I'll have to figure it out.

Conclusion:  Great shirt waist dress pattern. Perfect for summer and also happens to be perfect for early maternity wear!   I took these photos the same time I took the photos for my last post.  So this is just a 15 week little baby bump.  It's getting bigger now.  I think it's time to look at actual maternity patterns and for colder weather, too.

More Sleeves!

These are some serious sleeves, again!  I guess it really is 'the year of the sleeve.'  Or am I behind a year?  I usually am.  Anyway, I made this dress back in April for Easter.  I actually took photos then, too, but have not even thought about blogging until now. Why now, do you ask?  Schools out!  Glorious free time!  Woo hoo!  Today was my last workday for the next nine weeks.  I love summer!! 

Pattern Description:  McCalls 7385.  I made view C but with the awesome circular flutter sleeves.  I've had this pattern for a while.  I have seen a few sleeveless versions but not any with the big sleeves.  I now see why the giant sleeves are only on the shirt view, though.  A whole lotta fabric went in to this dress.  Five yards.  Yes, five!  I lined the sleeves and bodice.  And while I like the end result just fine, I do feel like I'm being swallowed up by all that fabric.  

Pattern Sizing:  6-22.  I made a 14 but I do believe I nipped it in a bit.  It's been while since I made it, so it's hard to remember everything I did.

Fabric Used:  A rayon challis, I believe this is from Gertie's line of fabrics at Joann's.  I really, really tried to shop my stash but didn't have anything spring-y for Easter.  So I went to Joann's just to browse and this electric blue floral print jumped out at me.  It's not a style I would typically go for but I think it works with the dress.  And I felt nice and bright and springlike when I wore it.  I am a little concerned about the longevity of the fabric.  I had a lot of trouble with warping and stretching out while I was sewing. I guess that means the weave is looser.  It's nice and swishy, though.  On the downside, you really can't see any of my seam lines in this busy print.

Likes/Dislikes:  I like the lines of this pattern.  The gathering on the side is nice and I like that it doesn't continue across the center front.  I like the raised waist.  It hits me at my smallest measurement.  I also like the split neck.  I do have a little bit of pulling at the split towards my shoulders.  Typical issue for me.  I think I squared the shoulders some, but can't remember.  I usually do.  The split neck should be lined in the pattern instruction but it's not.  It stays open and you would see the wrong side of the fabric all the time.  Luckily I read a couple of reviews of the pattern, including Carolyn's, so I planned ahead and lined the whole bodice- front, back and side pieces.  The original instructions have you line just the side front and back to get a clean edge on the armholes. 

Alterations/Deviations:  Like I said above, I lined the whole bodice.  I used all the same pattern pieces, cutting the center front at the waistline.  I also self-lined the sleeves.  I put one sleeve on as a single layer but didn't like seeing the wrong side of the fabric.  So I cut two sets of sleeves and stitched together at the hem before sewing them to the armscye.  Those sleeve pieces are fabric eaters!  Saved me from having to hem that giant circle, though.   I added interfacing to some areas on the bodice after the fact as I was sewing.  The pattern doesn't call for any interfacing, but I think you need some if you are using a floppy fabric like rayon challis.  I interfaced the front edges of the split (shell and lining) and around the neckline.  Like I said before, I was having some trouble with warping and this was my solution.  I added side seam pockets, too.  I love shoving my hands in my pockets.   The finished dress was also pretty short.  You probably can't tell, but I used my last little scrap of fabric to add a hem band to the bottom of the skirt.  For length, but also to add a little bit of weight to the skirt.  With all the lining on the bodice and sleeves, the dress is pretty top heavy.  I probably should have lined the whole dress in a lining fabric, minus the front neck split.

Conclusion:  I enjoyed wearing my new dress.  I like the cut of the dress even if it gets overshadowed by those massive sleeves.  I'd love to make the maxi version this summer though sleeveless for sure.  The front slit on the maxi view is calling my name.  If I make those big sleeves again, I'll stick with just a top version.

Sleeves!

I wore this to work the other day for the first time.  Um, let's just say that these sleeves are not made for art teacherin'.  I just about dipped them in to paint/glue/glaze on several occasions.  Then I almost cut them in the paper cutter.  I finally had to tie them up over my elbow with a rubber band to teach the rest of the day.  However, these sleeves are made for swanning around and looking groovy!  I love them.  I just maybe need to think about what I'm going to teach that day before I wear this to work again.  Anyway, to the review...

Pattern Description:  McCalls 7545.  Misses split neck top with flared sleeves.  There are three different views; a short sleeve version without the flared sleeve, a version with a long flared sleeve with sleeve bands, and a version made for border prints with a gathering.  It's a very groovy looking pattern.  I made view B with the sleeve bands because I was drawn to the view with the two contrasting fabrics.

Pattern Sizing:  6-22.  I made a 14.  I waffled between making a 12 or 14 but ultimately went with the larger size because I was worried about the shoulders being too tight.

Fabric Used:  I used two different rayon challis prints I found at Joann's.  I really didn't want the two fabrics to match at all.  I wanted them to sort of clash, but not in a bad way.  I spent FOREVER cutting this out.  Single layer, painstakingly making sure each side matched up.  I think the time spent paid off although there are few places that aren't perfect.  I couldn't decide how to use the crazy border print so I cut two different center fronts and back yokes to help me decide.  The one I decided not to use on the outside, I used inside for the facings.

Likes/Dislikes:  I love the sleeves, obviously.  And I love the two fabrics together.  However, there are some fit quirks that I don't love (see below).  I also did not love how deep the split neck was.  I ended up tacking it up higher.  I had a fit issue with the width of the neck line as well.  Tacking the split closed higher made that issue much less noticeable.  My cording is just ok.  I couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I braided some thinner crochet yarn I had to make a thicker cord.  We'll see how that washes.  I ended up cutting the ties much shorter since I'm not tying the split neck closed anyway.  They are purely decorative.  The insides are just as pretty as the outside, although I didn't do all the slip stitching by hand.  Ain't nobody got time for that.  I just serged the edge of the facings and top stitched from the outside.

Alterations/Deviations:  I did not make a single alteration to this particular top.  Not a one.  I spent so much time cutting out the fabric that I didn't want to mess with any alterations from the beginning.  I figured the drape-y fabric and the relaxed fit would be forgiving.  And it is for the most part.  I definitely need to square up the shoulders.  There is this weird fit issue through the shoulders and front where the top part if much too wide.  The ends of the shoulders sort of pull off the ends of my shoulder, if that makes sense.  If I pick up the inner corners of the shoulders and pinch off the excess, that goes away.  The armhole is also very high.  If I make this again, I will definitely do a substantial square shoulder adjustment without raising the armhole to match.  I also will take out some width from the center front (and maybe even center back).  I bet my neck split wouldn't be too deep with those fit changes either.  So, once again, I have shoulder fit issues.  I am about ready to maybe try and draft my own block to see if I can solve my shoulder fit issues once and for all.

Conclusion:  I really love the finished top, shoulder fit issues and all.  I am interested in making this again, but it is a little lower on my list.  I'm actually kind of interested in the short sleeve version. 

Four *New Tops

*Only two of them are actually new makes.  The other two are previously sewn tops with a few changes.  I'm collecting them all in one blog post simply because they are the last four things to come off my sewing machine and I took pictures of them the other day.  I actually worked on all of them at the same time and then finished them all in one weekend.  Nothing makes you feel more accomplished than finishing four things in one weekend!

Anyway, the first top is my grey floral Burdastyle shirt that I recently blogged about here.  I went back to the fabric store and bought another yard of this rayon to do 3/4 length sleeves like my other version.  And I like it so much better.  I was able to wear it once on a cool day a week or so ago, but this top will go in the closet until fall. Too hot for longer sleeves already.  I painstakingly unpicked the armhole seams- stitched twice and then serged!  I'm always so thorough on seams I need to undo.  Looks better with longer sleeves, doesn't it?   I think it does. I get a more billowy, bohemian vibe instead of a granny chic vibe with the shorter sleeves.

My next alteration was to this rayon challis and linen McCalls 7095 top I made last summer.  I never wore it.  Not once.  The elastic waist was too bulky.  I think there was just too much volume gathered in to the elastic waist.  So I unpicked the channel the elastic was sewn in to- again, painstakingly, because it was several rows of stitching.  And then I chopped it shorter and hemmed it.  Unfortunately, I hemmed it too short the first time around.  So I then unpicked the hem and sewed a strip of fabric on the bottom to make it longer.  Can you tell I'm missing a stripe in there?  It was definitely a dedicated remake.  But I am so glad I persevered and fixed it because I have worn this top multiple times already.  It will be a staple this summer.

The next top is a new make.  I made this as a wearable muslin.  I bought McCalls 7361 without any real intention of making it right away, but then I noticed the striped version on the pattern envelope.  I had this super cheap rayon challis in stash that I figured would be perfect.  It was not fun to cut, however. I starched the hell out of it to keep the stripe as straight as possible.  I think I did an ok job.   

Pattern Description:  McCalls 7361, a loose fitting, pullover top with neck and hemline variations.  There is some very interesting seaming in this pattern.  I made view D, the striped version, but with the v-neck.  The sleeves are cut on the bias.  

Pattern Sizing: 6-22.  I cut a 12 to try and reduce some of the width even though I normally cut a 14.

Fabric Used:  Rayon challis.

Alterations/Deviations: The finished top was so, so short.  In an attempt to save it, I added a strip of fabric to hem.  I actually kind of like the added band around the hem.  We'll just pretend it was a design feature.  So pay attention to the length if you are making this.   I also had to straighten the shoulder seam after the fact.  I should just do a square shoulder adjustment all the time now, no questions asked.  I straightened the shoulder seam from shoulder point to neckline.  I probably took a 3/4" wedge out.  Not the proper way to do it but it helped.  I'll do a proper square shoulder adjustment next time around.

Likes/Dislikes:  I like the shape.  I like all the interesting seaming with the stripe.  I do not like how low the armholes are.  You can see straight to my bra.  I'll wear a camisole under this one but maybe I'll try and raise the armholes a bit next time.  Can you do that with a cut on sleeve?  I figure I'll just redraw that underarm curve up a little higher.

Conclusion:  It's funky little top pattern.  I would like to make it again with all the changes I listed above.  I'm even kind of interested in the pleated side panels.

The last top was super quick and is probably my favorite of the bunch.

Pattern Description: Kwik Sew 3891, batwing top with curved hemline and raglan sleeves.  I think this pattern has been around for a long time.  This is the first Kwik Sew pattern I've ever sewn.  I bought a few at Hancock the other day on deep discount.  I made view A but with the scoop neckline.

Pattern Sizing: XS-XL.  I made a S with the length of a M.  I'd say generous sizing in this pattern.  Not that sizing is super important.  As long as the neckline sits where you want it to, you're good to go with this style of top.

Fabric Used:  A Nicole Miller rayon jersey from Joann's.  I bought a few yards a while back but this is the first I've sewn up.  It's nice stuff.  Nice medium-ish weight but still pretty drape-y.  I think it was perfect for this top.  I have worn this top many, many, many times since making it.  And I have to report that the print has faded.  I'm on about the 12th wash or so and it's just now fading.  It didn't fade at first so I was pretty excited about the quality.

Alterations/Deviations:  None, other than using a longer length.  I also did my own neckband length. I always cut a neckband strip and then figure out the length as I'm sewing it on.  I don't trust the length given in patterns because I think it always varies depending upon your fabric.

Likes/Dislikes:  Love everything about this top.  I love the way the raglan seams are sewn together to make the sleeves.  I like the wide scoop neckline.  The length is good.   It's so easy to wear.  I will take more care with my hem next time.  I probably should have used some fusible to stabilize first.

Conclusion:  I will definitely make this again.   I have worn this one so much already that people might wonder if it's all I own.  It's a great, super quick sew.

Two Skirts

I made a couple of skirts.  One I am very happy with but the other is just ok.   Nothing exciting to talk about here in my intro, so on to the review.   I'm brain dead at the moment.  We are in the last week and half of school and the kids have gone bonkers.

Pattern Description:  Simplicity 8019, a vintage 70's reprint.  The pattern is a front gored, buttoned skirt in four different lengths.  My first version is the turquoise linen skirt.  My second, which I am much happier with, is the printed rayon midi length skirt.

Pattern Sizing:  The pattern offers sizes 6-24.  I made kind of a mix of sizes 16-18.  I cut the pattern as a size 16 but when I held up the waistband piece, I realized that a size 16 waistband was not going to fit me where I wanted the skirt to sit.  This must be designed to sit right on the natural waist.  I wanted my skirt to sit lower, so I cut an 18 waistband and then sewed slightly smaller seam allowances at the top of of my skirt pieces so the waistband would fit. I'm not sure that was the best decision as the skirt would probably be a lot more flattering if it sat at my natural waist.  I think it messes with the proportion a little bit.  I think this is why I don't love the turquoise version.  

Fabric Used:  Turquoise linen/rayon blend for skirt one.  Ditsy rayon challis print for skirt two.  I think this skirt pattern lends itself to all types of fabric.

Alterations/Deviations:  Other than the waistband issue I mentioned above, I made no other changes to the turquoise skirt.  The length is the shortest length offered.  Not as short as it looks on the envelope, but remember my skirt sits lower on my waist.  When I made the rayon skirt, I was worried the waistband would be too flimsy (even interfaced).  So I added elastic to the back waistband which I am patting myself on the back for.  It keeps the skirt sitting where I want it to and takes care of some fit issues I have with the first version.  If I make this again, I will definitely do the same thing again.  I just sewed the waistband on and inserted elastic in the back half, stitching it at the side seams.  I only pulled the elastic slightly.  Just enough to give the back waistband a little bit of tension.  It's smooth when it's on.  The rayon version originally began as a maxi but I think I'm kind of over maxi skirts here lately.  I kept shortening it (three times!) until I ended up with a length I liked.  Well, I guess I like it.  There is something frumpy about it in photos but I think it looks better in real life.  It's flips and swishes around when I walk and it's fun to sit and cross your legs in with the button band split at the bottom.  It's only a couple of inches longer than the turquoise skirt.  It sits just below my knees.

Likes/Dislikes:  I like the flared shape and button front.  I do have some fit issues with the linen version.  I think those wrinkles in the back have something to do with sewing the seams with smaller seam allowances.  Or I need a sway back adjustment.  I also do not like how the front of my linen skirt wrinkles.   It's pretty unflattering and makes the button band stick out.  I know I have a little belly there but I think the button band sticking out accentuates it even more (see below!).   I don't feel that way in the rayon version.  Anyway, I'm letting the turquoise skirt sit in the closet for a while to see if I grow to love it later.  The rayon one has already been worn multiple times.

Conclusion:  Nice little skirt pattern.  I would like to make it again in a longer midi length (mid calf). I actually have some black tencel fabric that would be perfect.  And who couldn't use a good black skirt.  I'll add it to the queue!

More Shirts!

I made more shirts!  Can you believe it?  I made two, although one is a success and one not so much.  After my shirt making adventure recently, I was pretty sure I would take a good long break from sewing collared shirts.  But I received so much good advice from everyone in the comment section that I decided to have another go.

Pattern Description:   Honestly, I don't have any great take away from this shirt sewing experience because this shirt style is so different.  This is not a traditional shirt pattern, as you can see.  It's a BurdaStyle pattern-- Gathered Peplum Blouse 03/2015 #109.  It's a very roomy and wide blouse with a gathered bottom.  I'm not sure I would call it a peplum but I don't really know what to call it.  I actually bought this pattern from the BurdaStyle website last year around this time of year.  I printed it, taped it together, traced it and added seam allowances and then lost all steam to actually make it.  I find pdf's to be a lot of trouble.  Anyway, after reading a couple of comments on my post about shirt making that recommended I try a shirt pattern that had a back yoke and pleat detail, I remembered this pattern all ready to go in my sewing room.

Pattern Sizing:  I cut a 40 and it is really wide.  The style is supposed to be roomy and boxy but I could have gone down to a 38 easily.  Also, the shoulders are super wide.  Maybe they are supposed to be slightly dropped.   I'm not sure.  I had a few comments on my shirt making post that have me paying attention to where the shoulder/armscye seam hits.  This shirt tells me nothing about that, though!  I left the shoulder seam as is, however.  When I make a more traditional shirt again, I will definitely look at the width of the shoulders.

Fabric Used:  Both versions are rayon challis.  For the black version,  I used two different rayons I found at Joann's.  Not sure if they were meant to go together or not, but the tan color is a perfect match between the two.   I had fun deciding which parts of the shirt would be made from which fabric. The black shirt is a definite favorite.  I love the way it turned out.  I didn't worry too much about matching those diamonds but I did try and keep them straight when I cut out the pieces.  I did an ok job.   It veers off a little in places.  The grey and white floral short sleeve shirt is a super cheap rayon challis I found at Hancock.  I'm not as in love with it as the black version.  The grey and white print combined with the style of the shirt reminds me of the Golden Girls for some reason.  Like 80's retirement home chic.  It's a little frumpy.

Alterations/ Deviations: I made changes to the sleeves on both versions.  When cutting out the black version, I turned the one piece sleeve in to a two piece because I didn't want to try my first ever tower placket in rayon challis.  I did cut long sleeves, but later decided to shorten them to 3/4 length.  I finished the hem of the sleeves with a skinny band instead of a wide cuff.  I did keep a placket opening and did a buttonhole on the cuff to close it.  On the short sleeve version, the sleeves are really the reason I don't really like it so much.  I wanted to do a sleeveless version originally.  But when I sewed it up without sleeves, I couldn't figure out how to finish the armholes.  The shoulder seams are too dropped for binding and I couldn't wrap my brain around adding a sleeve band or something similar.  I didn't think it through.  So I cut sleeves from the pattern using the last little bit of fabric I had left.  This is all the length I could do.  Meh.  I also added an inch to the length of the shirt which I think contributes to the frump factor.  And I only did four buttons instead of five ( I spaced them myself on both).  There really needs to be a button in the middle where the gathered seam sits. Oh, and I left off the pockets in both versions- front flap pockets and in-seam pockets.

Likes/Dislikes:  I really love the first version I made with the 3/4 length sleeves.  I love the print mix and the swingy, gathered bottom.  It really is the perfect blouse to wear to work.  It's easy to wear but funky and semi-professional looking.  The grey version needs longer sleeves, I think.  I am tempted to go back to Hancock and check for more of that fabric to redo the sleeves.  The short sleeves make it look dated for some reason.  If I ever make this pattern again, I will narrow the shoulder width a bit and maybe downsize the collar.  But other than that, I like it.  I am much happier with this shirt making experience than the last.  And yes, even though I'm not sure I did that back pleat correctly, I am liking the feel and fit of the back yoke versus no yoke.  I don't notice the creeping back neckline that I lamented about before but that could also be a result of using a drape-y fabric.

Conclusion:  Fun shirt pattern.  I will definitely look at shirt patterns with a back yoke from now on.  And maybe one day I'll try my hand at a tower placket.  I love the black version and it is already being worn frequently.  The grey version will get some wear as is, but I'd love to revisit those sleeves.