Shirt Dress For A Bump

Here are a few more things I made for the growing belly this summer.  All of these were for back to work.  I've worn the shirt dresses a bunch of times already, but haven't worn the separate pieces at all.  The best part about all of these pieces is that they don't look like maternity clothes (I think?) and I definitely plan to wear them after baby is here.  The shirt dresses in particular will come in handy when I have to go back to work after giving birth.  Don't ask me why I seem so prepared for all of this baby business!  I'm really not.  At least I'm not prepared in any other aspect of life. But I guess my wardrobe is prepared.  Ha! I did get all summer to think about what to sew and then had the time to do it, so that helped.

Pattern Description: The pattern is one I've made before, McCalls 7314.  In fact, when I blogged about this particular dress before, I actually noted that it would be a great maternity pattern.  And it is!  It's a typical shirtwaist dress but with a raised, curved waist seam.  It's perfect for a growing bump. And I will absolutely be wearing my very first version when the weather gets a little cooler (it's below).  I left the elastic out of the back waist in that version but I like how it looks with tights and boots. The sleeves are from a different pattern.

Pattern Sizing: 6-22.  I made a 14.  

Fabric Used: I made the navy, shibori print dress first.  It's a rayon poplin that I bought from fabric.com a while back.  I've seen many other folks with the same fabric and for good reason.  It's really nice stuff.  I think rayon poplin might be my favorite dress fabric.  It's got great drape but is way sturdier than rayon challis and totally opaque.  I made the black and white gingham version next.  It is a rayon challis I've had for a while, too.  The top version is a plain white rayon challis that I bought yards of when Hancock closed down.  And the pants are made from the leftover rayon poplin from my very first version of the dress above.  I'm trying to sew through some of my stash as my fabric closet is going to be new baby's closet.  I've got to downsize!  I'll make some quick notes about the pants at the bottom of this post. 

Alterations/ Deviations: The navy shibori print dress has almost no alterations except my standard square shoulder adjustment. I played around with the shoulder fit more on the gingham version (and the armscye), but honestly, I think the shoulders look better on the navy version.  I also played around with button placement on the gingham version but I like it better per the pattern.  The gingham dress is longer, too.  About three inches, I think.  I spent forever matching up the checks on the gingham when I cut out pattern pieces.  The bodice looks decent but there is a little slant to the skirt. Oh well.  It was not fun to cut out.  I made the blouse last.  It's okay.   I put the elastic in the back waist of both dresses but did not like it in the top version.  So I left it loose and billowy.  The top version seems to fit so much larger for some reason.   Maybe fabric choice- cheap fabric, looser weave.

Likes/ Dislikes:  I love both dress versions. The curved waist seam is just perfect for a belly.  I plan to wear both dresses after baby, too.  I'm hoping the buttons will make it nursing friendly.  Like I said before, the blouse and pants haven't been worn at all.  I think I like both pieces separately, but not together.  It's too much fabric to wear at once.  I'll wear the blouse with a skinnier bottom but I'll probably just save the pants for later.  You can't tell in these photos, but the blouse has fun buttons.  They are clear with glitter.

And just some quick notes about the pants:  They are Butterick 5893.  I made view A, the straight leg version with side seam pockets.  I cropped mine.  I also shortened the rise a little bit.  They have an elastic waist.  They feel nice to wear in rayon poplin again, but I'm not sure what sort of top to wear them with.  I'll have to figure it out.

Conclusion:  Great shirt waist dress pattern. Perfect for summer and also happens to be perfect for early maternity wear!   I took these photos the same time I took the photos for my last post.  So this is just a 15 week little baby bump.  It's getting bigger now.  I think it's time to look at actual maternity patterns and for colder weather, too.

Chartreuse Linen Midi Skirt

I'm on the fence about this skirt.   I think my main issue is that I don't know what to wear with it.  This top is the only thing in my closet that looked ok with it.  Wearing a shirt with a collar seems to counter the primness of the silhouette.  I tried on several tops with short sleeves but instantly felt frumpy.  Not sure why. Any suggestions on what to wear with a full, midi length skirt like this?  I'm thinking I should make a sleeveless collared blouse out of linen to go with it.  Maybe white, maybe a purple??  I'm hoping I didn't just make a closet orphan.  I'm also contemplating shortening the hem to knee length thinking I'd be more likely to wear it then.  I do like that this length is something different in my closet.  Anyhoo, on to the pattern details.

Pattern Description: I made Butterick 5929 again.  You can see my first version (view A) here.  This time I made view D, the midi length gored skirt.  It is definitely a departure from the type of thing I normally wear.  But I've been trying to branch out a little lately.  And I'm on a mission to make some warm weather work appropriate things before school starts in August.

Pattern Sizing: I made a 16 but took in the waist a 1/2 inch on each side.  So could I have made a 14? I don't know.  I'd rather go bigger and take in than make something too small.  Not much else to fit other than the waist.

Fabric Used: The main attraction of this skirt is the linen.  It's a beautiful, smooth and crisp linen from fabrics-store.com.  I've been buying quite a bit of linen from there and I've always been pleased.  This particular linen is listed as a 'luxury' linen due to the fact that it is has a higher thread count.  And it does indeed.  The weave is tighter than any linen I've sewn with before, which really does make it feel more luxurious.  But it still has that wonderful airy rumple that I love so much.  Oh linen, how I love you!  Let me count the ways.  In case you haven't noticed my love affair with linen.

Likes/Dislikes:  I wanted to branch out and try a midi length skirt.  A true midi length, hitting just below my calves.  I'm not sure how I feel about now.  Hence why I am on the fence about this one.  I actually like it in these photos but I did feel a little frumpy when I was wearing it.  It is wonderfully cool to wear.  And I do majorly love the color.  My only other nit-picky complaint is that I can see the edge of the facing through the linen.  I serged the edge and there is a visible ridge there.  I kind of wish I did the waistband instead of the facing for this particular skirt.

Alterations/Deviations:  None, other than nipping the waist in.  This is a good pattern with lots of options for a fuller skirt.  Could of used in seam pockets, though.  

Conclusion:  I'm going to try wearing it a few times before I decide to shorten it or not.  I don't want this pretty linen to sit unworn in the closet.  

A Purple Skirt

And now for something completely different.  This skirt really is a departure from what I normally wear.  But I'm branching out.  I usually feel like full, pleated skirts are best suited for those with tiny little nipped in waists.  My waistline changed dramatically post baby.  I mean, I know it does for most everyone.   But I ended up with quite a large difference in my waist measurement.  Not anywhere else, though.  Just the waist.  In fact my bust measurement went down a teeny, tiny bit-- womp, womp.  Hip measurement is the same.  The change in waistline very much changes my body shape.  And it's been interesting trying to figure out what works and what doesn't now.   I've been avoiding fitted waistlines just for that reason, in case you haven't noticed.  I do love a good billowy tunic or a swingy tee.  I always have and I always will.  But I think it's time to work my way back to some fitted waists.  Anyway, despite my own body issues, I really like this skirt.

 This is Butterick 5929, a full, pleated skirt with pockets.  I made view A, the one with no waistband.  I love the lack of waistband on this.  I am surprised I like it so much, but I do.  I measured myself carefully and chose a size 16 based on my hip measurement.  But I did end up taking in the waist about a half inch on either side.  If I made a 14, it probably would have been too snug.  So I guess I really needed a size 15- ha.  It's a nice little pattern.  The front is paneled.  I assume to help with cutting layouts.  There are four pleats on the front and four on the back.  The pattern instructions have you baste the pleats down while sewing the skirt and then remove the basting later.  I removed all the basting stitches when I finished and decided I preferred the back pleats stitched down.  So I stitched those down but left the front pleats free.

Despite the fact that this silhouette is not usually my style, linen skirts are totally my jam.  And yes, I will always wear it slightly rumpled, just like this.  Making this skirt in linen made it feel more like me. I used a pretty purple linen I had stashed.  It's a perfect grape color.  Purple!  I can't remember the last time I wore anything purple.  I desperately wanted to put a filter on these photos since I am so incredibly washed out and pasty right now.  But I didn't so you could see the actual color of the skirt :)-  This is what I wore on Easter.  I did a regular dress zip for the first time in ages.  I planned to do an invisible zip but couldn't find a match.  I serged all the seams inside the skirt.  I didn't want to purchase four cones of purple serger thread, though.  Not a color I use very often.  So I bought a spool of variegated purple thread and put it in the upper looper on my serger instead (I used my navy cones for the rest).  I love how it looks inside.  Although from this photo you can see that I should have put one in the lower looper as well.  Or serged all my pieces right side up.  Anyway, this is an ode to Heather's awesome rainbow serger thread.  I really need to order some rainbow thread for my serger. 

All in all, I am very happy with my pleated skirt.  I am thinking I want to make it again.  I have a fabric in mind but it is much stiffer than this linen.  It will be interesting to see how I feel about the shape then.

Groovy Mama 3.0

Alrighty, friends.  This is the last of the maternity clothes around these parts, I swear.  I realize it was probably a little foolish to make two maternity dresses so close to the end of my pregnancy.  But I don't regret it.  I got a rush from being able to have my choice of two different dresses to wear to the baby showers I've had recently.   I get what some of you were saying about sewing things that make you feel good at this stage in pregnancy.  True.  So true.  And on a sidenote to any irl friends or family who read my blog: Thank you so much for the awesome baby showers you've put together and traveled long hours to attend for J and I.  We feel so loved and blessed.

 

Look!  The sun is out!  Come on spring...

I actually made this dress several weeks ago.  Before the wrap dress.  Or I should say I started it several weeks ago.  It's from a vintage Butterick maternity pattern.  I couldn't find a year anywhere on the pattern, but with that collar I'd say it was the early 70's.  I obviously didn't sew it up exactly as drafted.  I really liked the inset yoke, placket and gathering over the top of the belly.  I also liked that the pattern didn't call for jersey.  Everything I've made for maternity wear has been out of jersey.  I was craving using a drapey woven for something.  The recommended fabrics listed several different wovens and also double knit.  Double knit really doesn't behave like a stretchy knit, does it? 

 

I knew it was a risky make when I started out.  I figured it would be fantastic or be a giant, dated muumuu with the print I chose.   I had a weird burst of energy a few weekends ago and I made a muslin.  I managed the corners of the inset yoke just fine, but struggled with the bottom of the placket.  I decided life was too short and extended the placket to the end of the yoke.  Solved that issue and it was way easier to sew.  I tried out several different buttons and didn't like the look of any of them.  I left the placket without buttons.  It's tacked shut about halfway down.

 

I was very happy with the fit other than taking in the back princess seams quite a bit.  I predict that a swayback alteration will be a common one in my future now.  So I went ahead and cut out my fashion fabric.  I used a 100% percent polyester crepe that I found on the bargain table at my local fabric store.  Now before you go and judge me, answer me this:  If you can't use 100% polyester for a groovy 70's sewing pattern, when can you use polyester?   I really liked the print.  Every pattern piece is underlined with a super soft navy rayon challis (which you can see on the placket) so the poly never touches my skin anyway.  I think the combination worked well for this dress.  I actually sat down and basted my fashion fabric to the underlining by hand in the same weekend.  Like I said before, it was a weird burst of productiveness.

I sewed up the dress right away but I was stumped about the sleeves and collar.  The dress then sat for a while until I finished it right before one of my baby showers.  I knew I didn't want the giant 70's collar.  Even the collar stand piece looked large and exaggerated.  Instead, I cut a piece of bias and bound the neck edge.  I like the way the placket looks partially open.   The bound edge is simple and wasn't fussy.   I also knew the sleeves would be too slim for my liking.  I did a major slash and spread, cut them off at elbow length and then put in some elastic at the sleeve hem.   The actual dress hem is pretty bad.  I turned it up twice and machine stitched.  What is the proper way to hem something that has been underlined?  It was a little stressful getting an even edge.  I used my serger to finish all the seams inside.  Love that machine.

 

This photo cracks me up.  It's a classic sewing blogger pose-- touch hair and look down at feet.  Little do you know that I can't actually see my feet :)

Sewing has been a godsend during my pregnancy.  I'm so happy I was able to make somewhat stylish things to wear without spending an arm and a leg.  This was a situation where I was so thankful I can sew.  Click here if you'd like to scroll back through all my maternity wear posts.

 

And here is the 36 week belly from all angles.  These photos are from this past weekend.  I am only a little over three weeks away from my due date at this point.  I can't believe it.  I am so incredibly excited about what's to come yet so anxious about how much there is left to do.  Thank you all for all the well wishes and good vibes during my pregnancy.  I really appreciate all the support, advice and commiseration!  I'll probably be pretty quiet around here for a while, but I'll have some news at some point I'm sure ;)

Winding Down

 

Quick and dirty.  Those are the two words I'm using to describe the making of this dress.  It was a fast make.  Super fast.   Which makes pregnant-me very happy.   I'm winding down my maternity sewing.  There are still a couple of things I'm planning to sew.  Only one definite.  But I think from this point forward it's smarter to focus on getting ready for baby.  We are busy working on the nursery.  I've started collecting various types of baby gear.  It kind of makes me panic when I think about how little time there is before she's here.  Three more months!  Ack!

 

I bought this particular pattern, Butterick 5679 and some double knit at a Hancock sale after seeing Carolyn's version a couple of weeks ago.  In fact, I even picked fabric close to what Carolyn used.  The highest form of flattery, right? ;)  It looked like a pretty easy pattern and I liked the raglan sleeve and cowl.  Like I said before,  I'm all about the quick and easy right now.   I've also never sewn a raglan sleeve before and I was curious.   With a little modification it made a great maternity dress (thanks for the tip, Carolyn!).  The double knit is not the best.  Some of those double knits they have at Hancock are really nice, and some not so much.  This one is extremely synthetic and has a slight smell after drying in the dryer.  But it's fine for winter time wear.  And pregnant girls can't be choosy when it comes to clothes that fit.

 

I made view B, but I did a quick and dirty full belly alteration (that's for you, Valerie!).  I'm not really sure if that's what it's called, but I like the description.  The lengthen/shorten line was just above the waistline on the front piece.  I cut straight across the lengthen/shorten line and stopped right before the side edge.   Then I pivoted out both pieces and added about two or so inches right where my belly would be.   I lengthened the entire piece by adding about four inches beyond that silly point on the original pattern piece and connected the side seams.  I ended up redrawing the side seam and smoothing it all out.  Actually, I didn't draw anything.  I made all these changes while cutting out my fabric on the fly.  Shame, shame.  But it worked.   I only altered the front piece.  I did not sew a center front seam.  I cut on the fold instead.  I cut the back on the fold as well and added length to accommodate for the alteration I made to the front.

 

I didn't have enough fabric for the full cowl piece.  The original cowl must be huuuuge.  I cut down the depth by half.  I think I'm happier with a smaller cowl anyway.   I matched my stripes but all the seams are still pretty obvious because it's impossible to match snowflakes, too.  I am not a perfectionist, if you can't already tell.  When I tried it on (after only about an hour and half of sewing!) I loved it but it was just a leetle bit too short for work.  So I added a hem band to add more length.  It took me about as long to add the hem band as it did to sew the whole dress.  I cut the band slightly smaller than the hem to pull it in a bit.  As a result, there is a little bit of misshapen-ness going on there at the side seam.  I can't make myself fix it.  I've worn the dress three times already.  I keep hoping it will work it's way out :)  Lazy, I tell you!

 

I actually made a muslin, can you believe it?  Well, sort of.   I made up view D (minus those silly hem points again- what is it with sewing pattern companies and pointy hems?!) to take a break from my jacket sewing over the holiday break.   I had high hopes that it would turn out wearable.  Meh.  It did, but I had to majorly modify the back piece.  The neckline was so incredibly wide at first that it slipped off my shoulders completely.  I pinched three or so inches out of the center back piece and re-cut the side and sleeve edges.  Then I resewed the sleeve on to the narrower back to fix it.  It's not the most flattering top ever, but it is comfy.  It sort of reminds me of a nightgown.  I'm planning on re-purposing the knit after baby comes.  I used a nice drapey rayon knit from my stash.  It's so large that I'm hoping I can cut another regular knit top from it later on.   Or possibly a baby onesie ;)

 

And this is the belly at 28 weeks.  Seven months!  I still feel really good. I was never thankful for my long torso until now (I could never find shirts long enough when I was younger).  I have plenty of room through the middle.  I don't feel too squished yet.  Yet being the operative word here....

*****

I think I'm going to write a separate blog post about this one day (maybe not), but I'm getting to the point where  I'd like for my sewn knits to be a little more polished.  I love knits.  I sew a lot of knits, but I do it on my regular machine and use a narrow zig zag.  I don't have patience for the stretch stitch.  My finish is lacking.  I leave most seams raw.  I overlock occasionally-- if it's an edge that will be seen.  My hemming sucks most of the time.  My machine hates twin needles.  What are my other options?  Are there other techniques out there I don't know about?  Is it time to look in to a serger?  And are there sergers out there that are affordable for a poor teacher with a brand new baby?  I'd love a Babylock, as recommended by a coworker, but I don't buy cars that expensive!  Anyway.  Just wondering if you guys are pro-serger or not.  Is it really worth it?  And if you are- what do you recommend?  Any advice is appreciated.

Happy sewing!