The Best of The Best Jewelry At Baselworld 2015

Fabergé Secret Garden necklace

Baselworld is known as a watch show but it is also one of the best places in the world to see the newest and best in jewelry from around the world, particularly at the luxury end. 

Among the brands that really made an impression this year was Fabergé. Not only with its first Imperial style jeweled egg in nearly a century. I already featured its Pearl Egg but the company exhibited several high jewelry collections reminiscent of the Fabergé of old, including a candy-colored collection of jewels called “Secret Garden (top photo).” Natalia Shugaeva, Fabergé’s head designer, said she wanted to create a collection of jewels that are opulent and refined. She succeeded.

From friends to those who actually work for the brand the word most used to describe the work of Fawaz Gruosi and his high jewelry brand, De Grisogono, is “crazy.” It is meant in the best possible sense. His singular creative designs have won the brand fame throughout the world and this year at Baselworld there were several ultra-imaginative masterpieces on displays. It’s almost become typical to expect the wonderfully unexpected from De Grisogono. Yhe De Grisogono High Jewelry necklace picture is a perfect example in 18k white and rose gold, 12 briolette-cut emeralds, 19 round-cut rubies (approximately 12.66 cts.), 29 marquise-cut white diamonds (approximately 11.01 cts.), 1,366 emeralds (approx. 60.20 ct s ) and 2603 white diamonds (approximately 137.54 cts.).

Chopard unveiled its High Jewelry Collection at Baselworld and even among the selection of jewelry destined for Red Carpet events one piece stood out. An ocean blue ring featuring a 41.57-carat oval shaped paraíba tourmaline from Mozambique and 8.8-carats of diamonds set in a lace-work of 18k white gold.

Georg Jensen and its managing director of jewelry, Meeling Wong, created several collections of refined jewelry that reinterpret the traditional designs of the famed silversmith brand. Among the items that stood out was a collection of pieces in collaboration with colored gemstone mining company, Gemfields.

Graff Diamonds also provided an exceptional jewelry not only in terms of size but in nuanced ways, showcasing several pieces that can be worn in a variety of ways or with clever use of material. The latter could be seen in the diamond tassel necklace pictured above.

Antonini, introduced a number of new collections with what it calls “natural” white gold, which is more like white mixed with a grey or yellow tint. It is used in a matte finished. Meanwhile more traditional rhodium-finished white and black gold is creatively used as a background for rough-textured pavé settings.

Pasquale Bruni introduced a number of colorful items led by Fiori in Fiore (Flowers in Bloom), featuring diamonds mixed with pink sapphires and morganite. 

Roberto Coin made a statement with its steely-eyed Falco (hawk or falcon, take your pick) ring and bracelet.  

Brumani was again as always a great designer of multi-colored stones that reflect the vibrancy of its home country Brazil and this year was no different as with these pastel colored earrings show. 

Like few other brands, Sutra brought color to the party with exceptional gemstones and creative designs as with these turquoise, diamond and gold earrings. 

More color was provided by Yoko London through its pearl-centric designs. 

Spanish brand Carrera y Carrera celebrated its 140th year anniversary with a collection of delicate, hand-made gold pieces. 

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Jewelry Trends at Baselworld 2013

Diamond and white gold necklace from Qayten (description below).

Whether it’s through craftsmanship, materials, artistry or innovation, the Italians always make their mark when it comes to jewelry design and this year was no different as brands large and small showcased sparkling and shimmering pieces at Baselworld 2013.

But they were not alone. The French brought its own brand of elegant and delicate designs. German creations were accessible and colorful. The U.S. and Israeli brands brought their glittering best to the party as well. New brands presented products that were competitive with established companies proving there is room for growth in the jewelry trade. And where does one place Fabergé these days? The iconic brand with the royal Russian heritage is now an international contemporary jeweler with one foot in its rich history and the other in its promising future.

There was a crazy, colorful quilt of jewelry to be seen and if only I could be cloned I could have experienced most of it. What follows is a selection of the some of the standout products in a variety of price points and materials that I had the chance to view. 

Casato
Based in Rome and led by Federico Gauttieri, the Italian jewelry brand creates jewelry made primarily with 18k gold and a variety of colored gemstones. The ruby and diamond-centric Dragon Eye is one of the lines introduced by the brand at Baselworld 2013, which includes this 18k rose gold pendant.

Charriol
Steel cable with accents of yellow or rose gold PVD are used to create modern and affordable jewelry for the Forever Young jewelry line. The standout pieces are the 69mm wide cuff bracelets in a crisscross design for a look that mixes elegance with attitude. 

Fabergé
The new Fabergé begins with its purchase by mining company Gemfields, which specializes in emeralds and amethysts from Zambia. Now the company has a direct pipeline for these colored gems. At baselworld 2013, it introduced the high jewelry collection, Les Danses Fantasques, that takes its inspiration from the Great Russian ballets. The collection features several suites, each focusing on a necklace with matching earrings and rings. An example of this is the La Esmeralda necklace pictured. Its part of suite that includes earrings and a ring covered in emeralds and diamonds, inspired by the romantic ballet of the same name. The necklace features white diamonds, suspended on a double chain of cabochon emerald beads and pear-shaped emerald drops.

Fope
The Vicenza, Italy-based company introduced new models to its “Flex’it” collection of crafted 18k gold jewelry. It is fully flexible due to tiny gold springs in the construction. The geometrical design is ehanced by squared white or black diamond paves and a range of interchangeable rondels.

Judith Ripka
The popular U.S. jewelry designer was at Baselworld 2013 showing her gold and silver jewelry collections, including these teardrop-shaped African Ruby Earrings, made of 18k gold with rose cut and full cut diamonds, and a 1.04-ct. African Ruby as a center stone.

Meissen
The 300-plus-year-old manufacturer of porcelain products has produced jewelry for a number of years. The company introduced “my little Mystery” collection, which uses a mix of diamonds and white or rose gold with pastel-colored gemstones. It includes this pendant-necklace made of hand-painted “ice green” porcelain with a diamond in the center and rose gold and diamond on its edge. 

Neelia
This is a new jewelry brand is from a Parisian jewelry manufacturer Gay Frères. Baselworld was the brand’s coming out party for its four lines of delicate, feminine jewelry based on simple motifs. As the name suggests, Twirl (pictured) is based on spiral shapes that are made with 18k pink and white gold occasionally covered in diamond pave. 

Nouvelle Bague
Florence-based jewelry designer released the Giardini Di Boboli line of hand-crafted enamel jewelry, including this earrings and ring set in black and “Bordeaux” enamel, rose gold, diamonds and carnelian.

Porrati
Among its introductions at Baselworld, this Italian brand released a series of rings with white pearls and rose gold; pink sapphires set on rose gold; rose gold; and sapphires on rose gold. These same combinations are also available on bangles.

Qayten (top photo)
This new Italian jewelry company specializes in contemporary high-end jewelry made out of a variety of materials. The necklace pictured is named Bologna, the firm’s hometown. It is made of white gold covered in diamonds that takes the shape of a wave. 

Stefan Hafner
The Bologna-based jewelry design firm introduced the nature-inspired Angelica collection of ruby and marquise diamonds jewelry, including these earrings with the rubies set in rows topped by diamonds in the form of small flowers.

Yvel
The Israeli company came to Baselworld with a flurry of new product that combines 18k yellow gold with baroque pearls in textured, organic shapes. The bracelet pictured is good example of the jewelry introduced by the firm, which in this case used three white fresh water pearls to provide a color contrast to the irregular gold shapes.  

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