Artist Jewels, Led By Andrew Grima, Featured At Bonhams London Auction

Gold, diamond and fire opal brooch/pendant, 1970, by Andrew Grima.  All photos courtesy of Bonhams except where noted

All of the big names, including Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels, will be part of the Bonhams London Fine Jewelry sale on April 27. However, the auction house will also feature the works of several contemporary jewelry artists, led by Andrew Grima.

Jean Ghika, head of Jewellery for Bonhams UK & Europe, was particularly excited about the five pieces by Grima that will be included in the sale. She says the Anglo-Italian jewelry designer, known for his modern works in the 1960s and ’70s, is a “pioneer of his day” who placed a strong emphasis on textures and conceptual designs.

“It wasn’t about the stones but the concept,” she said during a recent meeting at Bonhams London headquarters. “He was very instep with the changing trends. He represented an interest in jewelry as an art form rather than a conglomerate of stones.”

The Grima pieces she highlighted are:

Jean Ghika, head of Jewellery for Bonhams UK & Europe
displays the Andrew Grima pendant. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A gold, diamond and fire opal brooch/pendant, 1970, with the oval-cut opal set among an abstract arrangement of textured 18k gold cinnamon sticks, with a brilliant-cut diamond accent. Its estimate is £5,000 - £7,000 ($6,275 - $8,800).

A rutilated quartz, cultured pearl and diamond torque necklace, 1990, with the textured torque suspended at the front by a carved rutilated quartz “apple” with brilliant-cut diamond highlights, surmounted by a grey cultured pearl and brushed leaves. Its estimate is £7,000 - £10,000 ($8,800 - $12,500).

A color change sapphire and diamond ring, 1977, with a cushion-shaped, unheated Sri Lankan sapphire set within an abstract surround of brilliant-cut diamonds mounted on stalks. Its estimate is £5,000-7,000 ($6,275 - $8,800).

The auction of 141 lots will offer a breadth of jewels including signed pieces, antique items and colorful gems. 

The top lot is a Van Cleef & Arpels ring featuring a 10.28-carat E color marquise-cut diamond set between pear-shaped diamonds with an estimate of £150,000 - £200,000 ($188,200 - $251,000).

Signed jewels
The top three items in this group are:

A diamond 'Fuchsia' brooch and earring suite by Van Cleef & Arpels is among the top items in this group. The brooch is designed as a fuchsia flower head, its petals pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and its stamen reveals an articulated cascade of pear-shaped diamonds. Its estimate is £70,000 - £100,000 ($87,800 - $125,500).

In addition, the auction will offer an Art deco diamond bracelet by Cartier, circa 1925. Signed “Cartier Londres,” the finely pierced articulated geometric strap is decorated with cushion-shaped old brilliant and single-cut diamonds. Its estimate is £20,000 - £30,000 ($25,100 - $27,600).

Another standout in this group is an enamel and diamond “Serpenti” bracelet-watch by Bulgari, circa 1965-1970. The articulated bracelet is composed of a series of overlapping scales applied with orangey-yellow and red enamel. The serpent’s head has a forked tongue and marquise-cut diamond eyes. Its mouth opens to reveal a circular watch dial. Its estimate is £50,000-60,000 ($62,700 - $75,300).

Antique jewels
Some of the standouts in this group are:

A 19th century diamond rivière necklace composed of 45 collet-set cushion-shaped diamonds weighing 43 carats. Its estimate is £60,000 - £80,000 ($75,300 - $100,380).

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A Georgian diamond panel bracelet, circa 1780, composed of a series of individually sprung plaques, each pavé-set with old brilliant-cut diamonds, within a border of similarly-cut diamonds, mounted in silver closed back settings. Its estimate is £8,000 - £10,000 ($10,000 - $12,500).

An early 18th Century gold and diamond necklace of Portuguese origin in its original fitted case. It’s designed as a series of ribbon-bow motif links suspending a chandelier fringe. Its estimate is £10,000 - £15,000 ($12,500 - $18,800).

A special spinel
Bonhams is placing a special emphasis on spinels. These gems in red and blue (there are other colors) are sometimes mistaken for and are actually rarer than rubies and sapphires. However, their prices are lower. In September 2015, the 50.13-carat Hope Spinel fetched the world record price of $1.4 million at Bonhams London Fine Jewellery Sale, also setting a world record of $30,000 per carat, nearly double the previous record.

For this sale Bonhams is offering an early 20th century spinel and diamond ring. The 5.3-carat Burmese, unheated, step-cut spinel, circa 1915, is set within an octagonal surround of old single-cut diamonds. Its estimate is £15,000 - £20,000 ($18,800 - $25,100).

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Colored Diamonds, Cartier Ruby Brooch Among Top Lots At Bonhams New York Auction

A fancy colored diamond and diamond ring is the top lot of Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry sale. The jewel is centered with a 6.32-carat European cut fancy vivid, yellow diamond set between two old mine cut diamonds. Its estimate is $400,000 - 600,000.

Referring to the old European cut of the diamond, Susan Abeles, director of US Jewelry at Bonhams, said: “This old fashioned cutting style, rarely found in today’s market, epitomizes old world charm, brilliance and, above all, depth of color,”

It one of two colored diamonds jewels that will lead the April 24 sale. The other is a fancy colored diamond and diamond necklace by William Goldberg.

The modern-design necklace is set with 17 cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamonds, weighing a total of 47.34 carats. Each yellow diamond is set within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround and enhanced by baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The central fancy yellow diamond weighs 5.02 carats and graded as internally flawless. Its estimate is $350,000 - $550,000.

The sale includes a variety of gems and jewels including signed pieces from Cartier, Verdura and René Boivin; statement sapphires and emeralds; and collectable items from the Art Deco period, the 1960s and 1970s.

While the colored diamond lots are expected to be the top earners, the most interesting pieces are the signed jewels, which showcase variety, colorful precious materials, fine design and craftsmanship. They cover a number of periods.

Perhaps the most notable signed piece is a fine ruby and diamond clip brooch by Cartier, circa 1935. It reflects the evolution of style from Art Deco to Art Moderne, Abeles said. “Gone are the strong, flat, colorful, geometric lines as these were replaced by the more sculptural aesthetic found in jewelry of the mid-1930s.”

The brooch is geometrically designed and centers on a 3.54-carat marquise mixed-cut Burmese unheated ruby. The central ruby has a pavé-set frame of baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds, further enhanced by round cabochon and sugarloaf rubies and accented with square step-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $300,000 - $400,000.

“From the mid-1930s Cartier created and sold predominantly sculptural, mono-chromatic and diamond jewelry. While gemstone preferences of sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, topaz and turquoise can be found, very few ruby examples exist,” Abeles said. “This particular clip brooch provides an elaborate, yet simple, showcase for an exquisite gemstone. The brooch is a real collector’s item given the Cartier name, the era and composition.”

Other signed jewels of note include:

An aquamarine and diamond “Feuille De Platane” brooch by René Boivin, circa 1950, featuring a 21.90-carat, heart-shaped aquamarine enhanced by textured gold leaves and adorned with old European-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $20,000 - $25,000.

A citrine and 14k rose gold brooch by Verdura, 1941, with an estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

Original Blue Book Tiffany “Lily Of The Valley” designed by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., 1969. It is the original prototype for the 1969 Tiffany & Co. Blue Book brooch. The inspiration for this jewel comes from the French custom of giving Lily of the Valleys on the first of May to celebrate spring and as a good luck charm. The brooch is composed of eleven en tremblant lilies, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, to a gold stem with green enamel leaves. Its estimate is $5,000 - $7,000.

The oldest piece of jewelry being offered is an antique pair of emerald and gold earrings dating back to circa 1800, estimated at $3,000 - 5,000. 

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Jackie Collins’ Big, Bold Jewels Up For Auction By Bonhams

Best selling author Jackie Collins lived a life that was as big and bold as the characters in her romance novels. Her jewelry of diamonds and colorful gems that included pieces by Cartier and Nardi reflected this attitude.

These jewels are part of the “Jackie Collins: A Life in Chapters” auction at Bonhams Los Angeles. The $3 million, 1,000-lot sale of her Beverly Hills estate will be held May 16 and 17. 

The British native moved to Los Angeles on a full time basis in 1980s. It is here she thrived as both a writer and part of the Hollywood social scene until her death from breast cancer in 2015 at the age of 77. 

Among the top lots are signed jewels by Cartier and Nardi and watches by Patek Philippe, Harry Winston, Chanel and Chopard. They include the following: 

* A 6.04-carat diamond solitaire ring with an estimate of $100,000 - 150,000; 

* A diamond, emerald, stone and platinum necklace, estimate $40,000 - 60,000;

* An emerald, diamond and platinum plaque clip brooch, estimate, $20,000 - 30,000;

* A diamond, emerald, white gold and platinum ear pendants, estimate $8,000 - 12,000;

* An Art Deco diamond, black Onyx and platinum bracelet, estimate, $7,000 - 9,000;

* A Cartier 18k bi-color gold, “Panthere” collar, estimate $10,000 - 15,000.

In addition, the sale will include several works by the English painter, Beryl Cook, including Tango in Bar Sur ($20,000 - 30,000) and Train Station Café ($20,000 - 30,000); Collin’s bespoke special edition 2002 Jaguar XKR Sports car, fittingly finished in metallic gold; estimated at $15,000 - 20,000; a selection of entertainment and career-related memorabilia taking in first editions of her works and a selection of her designer clothes. 

A portion of the proceeds will be donated to support the empowerment of young women in the arts and education.

Collins published her first novel, The World is Full of Married Men, in 1968, marking the start of a 47-year writing career. The book was a bestseller, as were her next 31 novels which together sold more than 500 million copies in 40 countries worldwide. 

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Statement Colored Gems Up For Auction This Week In New York

The 9.54-carat Shirley Temple Blue Diamond

Following the $32 million sale of the De Beers Millennium Blue at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in April, blue diamonds continue to be in high demand at international auction houses around the world. However, blue isn’t alone as statement pink and yellow diamonds as well as sapphires and rubies are commanding lofty prices. 

The upcoming auctions in New York this week by Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Bonhams will be presenting plenty of colorful stones to meet this demand. 

The most anticipated lot is the 9.54-carat Shirley Temple Blue Diamond that will be placed on the block Tuesday at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale. The Fancy Deep Blue, Potentially Internally Flawless, VVS2 clarity diamond ring was owned by the child actress and American diplomat throughout her life. It has an estimate of $25 - $35 million. Her father purchased the ring in early 1940 around the time of her 12th birthday for $7,210.

The auction of more than 300 pieces also has other colorful delights, including a platinum ring set with a 12.45-carat cushion modified brilliant-cut Fancy Purplish Pink diamond with Natural Color, VS2 clarity, with an estimate of $3 - $5 million; and a 30.81-carat pear-shaped Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond with Natural Color and VS2 clarity with an of $1 - $1.5 million.

The 15.99-carat Jubilee Ruby

Meanwhile, Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale Wednesday will feature the Jubilee Ruby, a 15.99-carat oval-shaped Burmese ruby set on a platinum and 18k gold ring designed by Verdura. The gem is surrounded by circular-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $12 - $15 million.

“Top quality Burmese rubies of over 15 carats are an absolute rarity in the world of colored gemstones,” said Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s International head of Jewelry. 

Other statement colored gems among the more than 250 lots on sale include a 10.07-carat Fancy Intense Purple-Pink diamond ring with an estimate of $8 - $12 million; and a 54.62-carat rectangular modified cut Fancy Vivid yellow diamond with an estimate of $1.5 - $2.5 million. 

The three days of auctions begins Monday (today) at Bonhams New York with a sale of more than 100 lots of jewels including three Kashmir sapphires and other examples of Burmese and Ceylon sapphires.

8.07-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring 

The top lot is an 8.07-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring with an estimate of $400,000 – 600,000. It is believed that Bernard Golson (1879-1983), who often worked for foreign governments on special projects, bought the sapphire ring for his wife in the early 1920’s. Golson is known to have worked with the Guggenheims and aided U.S. authorities in the pursuit of Pancho Villa. This lead to his family being chased out of Mexico by Villa, losing their belongings and having to sew family heirlooms into their clothes during their escape to the United States. 

I plan to be covering the late sessions of the Sotheby's and Christie's auctions on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet

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Eight ‘Protagonists’ Honored As Jewelers And Artists

The statuette by Alex Soldier consists of 35 separate parts of gold and platinum with rubies, sapphires, diamonds and pearls. A removable ruby ring completes the work. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Eight US jewelers were honored by an Italian publication for their uncompromising vision Monday while they showed their jewels during a special event at Bonhams New York.

They were selected by the Italian jewelry publication, Vogue Gioiello, in its annual listing of “US Protagonists,” described as being “the best contemporary fine jewelry designers in the US.” The idea is to give these US-based artists international attention.

Maria Soldier wears Alex Soldier’s Anemone Coronaria (crown) brooches during the “US Protagonists” event at Bonhams New York. Photo by Anthony DeMarco 

The eight U.S. “protagonists” for this year are: Alex Soldier, Alexandra Mor, Heidi Gardner NYC, Hoorsenbuhs, K. Brunini Jewels, Suzanne Kalan, Sylva & Cie and Temple St. Clair.

Approximately 350 jewelry lovers and media representatives attended the event in which each jeweler showed their work in display cases. Since nearly all of the designers were in attendance, people were able to talk with them as well try on and buy their jewels.

Alexandra Mor and her jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Susan Abeles, Bonhams director of US Jewelry, in her welcoming remarks, stressed that the pieces on display are wearable and collectible art.

“These are jewelers of the 21st Century,” she said. “It’s your responsibility to meet them, to hear their story, to find their inspiration, and to touch the jewelry—pick it up, try it on. To understand what the artist was trying to do…. Pick out what you like. There’s something in every taste and for everyone.”

There certainly was something for everyone as each designer showcased their independent, artistic flair.

Alex Soldier pearl ring. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

For example, Alex Soldier specializes in several techniques, including those he created, and combines them in jewelry of differing textures and forms. One of his specialties is using casting techniques to create sculptural pieces made of many separate parts. In fact, in addition to jewels, Soldier is known for his sculptural objets d'art.

Rare amatrin gem (which combines the colors of amethyst and citrine) on a ring flanked by two amethysts by Alexandra Mor. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Alexandra Mor creates elegant, well-crafted pieces with signature characteristics such as the use of large colored gemstones, “floating” diamond melee and knife-edge wire trim. Out of this group, she is perhaps the best at incorporating her work and her persona into her brand.

Wrap your wrist with a woman’s pelvic bone. 18K Gold Plated Brass with five orange sapphires by Heidi Gardner NYC. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Heidi Gardner describes her work as “dangerous and delicate” and for good reason. She specializes in jewels that depict skeletal structures—such as spines, pelvises and (of course) skulls—of humans and all sorts of animals whether they walk, swim or fly. Somehow she manages to make her silver and gold-plated brass pieces to appear playful and even beautiful.

Katey Brunini wearing her large flower brooches made of cow bones. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Katey Brunini of K. Brunini Jewels is artistic, innovative and endlessly creative, taking inspiration from the primitive to the modern and using materials one would not associate with jewelry making, such as cow bones, which she fashioned into large, milky white flower brooches that she wore at the event.

Tree of Life pendant by Temple St. Clair. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Temple St. Clair has been a leader in the fine jewelry industry for many years, known for her signature gold pieces with colored gems and design influences from her travels around the world. All of her jewels are handmade in Florence by traditional goldsmiths. Last year she introduced a couture line of nine one-of-a-kind pieces. Those works were not at the event as she chose to show some of her signature pieces.

Ancient coin necklace with handmade beads By Sylva & Cie. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Sylva & Cie was one of the biggest surprises for me at the event. I never saw its pieces in person or met its founder and designer, Sylva Yepremian. She creates high quality fine jewels but the most interesting items for me were jewels that combine new materials with vintage and period items, such as antique coins and glass beads, into one-of-a-kind pieces.

Patile Kalandjian wears diamond and gold choker by Suzanne Kalan. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Suzanne Kalan, whose jewels are designed by Suzanne and her daughter, Patile, are well known for their “Fireworks” collection, which features baguette-cut diamonds placed in clusters and rows and other untraditional ways that appear like firecrackers.

Long, flowing linked gold chain by Hoorsenbuhs. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Hoorsenbuhs, founded by self-taught designer Robert Keith in 2005, specializes in fashion-forward hand-made luxury gold jewels. The company is best-known for its tri-link rings and its partnerships with a number of celebrities.

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7.8-Carat Tiffany Kashmir Sapphire Fetches $1.35M At Bonhams

A sapphire and diamond ring set a world auction record for a Kashmir sapphire under 10 carats, fetching $1.35 million at Bonhams New York’s Fine Jewelry auction Tuesday.

The turn-of-the-century Tiffany & Co. ring is centered by an oval-cut sapphire the auction house describes as “rare quality” and a “deep and rich blue.” It’s flanked by European-cut diamonds weighing 7.84 carats. It sold for $172,000 per carat.

“On the heels of three world-records at our recent Bonhams London jewelry sale, Bonhams New York sets another world-record in price per carat for a Kashmir sapphire under 10 carat,” said Daniel Struyf, senior director of International Jewelry. “It’s been a successful week for Bonhams’ international jewelry department and a sign that colored gemstones are on the rise.”

Sapphires of Kashmir and Ceylon origin were quite popular at the sale, which represents the final jewelry auction for the fall season and for the year at Bonhams. Other top lots include:

* Sapphire and diamond ring: centered by a 29.74-carat cushion-shaped sapphire of Ceylon origin (pictured above), sold for $269,000.

* Sapphire and diamond ring: centered by an oval-cut sapphire of 5.23 carats of Kashmir origin (pictured above), sold for $269,000 

* A sapphire and diamond ring centered by a 24.16-carat sapphire of Ceylon origin, sold for $125,000. 

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50-Carat Hope Spinel Shatters Estimates, Fetches $1.4 Million

A rare colored gem from one of the world’s most distinguished collections set a world record Thursday at Bonhams London Fine Jewellery Sale.

The 50.13-carat Hope Spinel fetched $1.4 million at the auction, setting a world record for achieving a price of $30,000 per carat, nearly double the previous record. It also shattered its high estimate of $310,000. 

The octagonal step-cut gem was owned by London banker Henry Philip Hope whose collection of approximately 700 gems included the Hope Diamond (The 45.52-carat blue diamond that is part of the permanent collection in the Smithsonian National Natural History Museum). He kept the collection until his death in 1839. It’s been 98 years since the spinel was last offered for sale. 

The gem is set within decorative old brilliant and rose-cut diamond claws, framed by larger old brilliant-cut diamonds (total diamond weight 6.50 carats), mounted in silver and gold and worn as a brooch/pendant with detachable fittings. There’s a handwritten note in the case describing it as a “spinel-ruby” from the Hope Collection.

“It was an exceptional gemstone with a priceless provenance and these pieces just don't come to the open market often,” said Jean Ghika, director of Bonhams Jewelry for the UK and Europe.

Based on its color and large size, the gem was traced to the ancient Kuh-i-Lal mines, in Tajikistan, where some of the most celebrated ancient spinels were found. 

“These historic mines are geographically difficult to access and by the 20th century they weren't used due to political reasons,” Ghika said. “Spinels of this size and quality are therefore exceptionally rare even without the provenance of the Hope Spinel.”

Other top lots from the auction include the following: 

* An Art Deco enamel, gem-set and diamond “Tutti Frutti” bracelet, by Cartier, New York, 1929 that sold for $700,599. The articulated geometric strap, with carved emerald and ruby and black enamel vine motifs, against an old brilliant and single-cut diamond ground, mounted in platinum, diamonds approximately 10 carats total, signed Cartier. The luxury jeweler’s Indian-inspired Tutti Frutti jewels are some of its most celebrated designs. 

* A sapphire and diamond necklace, ring and earring suite that sold for $315,537. The necklace is designed as a graduated series of claw-set oval-cut sapphire clusters, within double and single-tier brilliant-cut diamond surrounds, alternating with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamond cluster floral motifs. With the earrings and ring, the sapphires totaled 128 carats and the diamonds approximately 84.80 total carats.

* A natural pearl ring in a circular shape between baguette-cut diamond shoulders that sold for $315,537. 

* A diamond “Torsade” bangle, by Suzanne Belperron, circa 1932, sold for $251,360. The jewel consists of a “gadrooned” cuff of alternating pavé-set old brilliant-cut diamond and polished platinum sections (diamonds approximately 20.70 carats total).

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50-Carat ‘Hope Spinel’ Could Surpass $310,000 Estimate

Among the top lots of the Bonhams London Fine Jewellery Sale on September 24 is the 50.13-carat Hope Spinel. The octagonal step-cut spinel is expected to fetch $240,000 - $310,000. However, Emily Barber, director of Bonhams jewelry department in London, said it could sell for much more.

“It not only had the amazing provenance but it’s also an exceptional gemstone in its own right,” she said. “You just don’t see pieces of this quality and provenance on the open market very often. It’s very exciting.”

The gemstone is part of one of the world’s greatest gem collections and will be offered for sale for the first time in 98 years.

It was owned by London banker Henry Philip Hope whose collection of approximately 700 gems includes the Hope Diamond (The 45.52-carat blue diamond that is part of the permanent collection in the Smithsonian National Natural History Museum). He kept the collection until his death in 1839.

The Hope Spinel’s origins are from the Kuh-i-Lal mines, in Tajikistan, according to the Swiss gemological laboratory, SSEF.

“The mines are geographically difficult to get to and politically in the 20th century weren’t being used,” Barber said. “That makes spinels like these exceptionally rare even without the provenance of the Hope Spinel.”

A spinel is a gemstone sometimes confused with ruby because they’re found in the same rock formations, are chemically similar and often have a pinkish-red coloring, Barber explained. But very large specimens are often more transparent and have fewer inclusions than ruby.

“Incredible transparency and impeccable cut of the Hope Spinel mean it is classed as an ‘exceptional treasure,’” she said.

The gem is set within decorative old brilliant and rose-cut diamond claws, framed by larger old brilliant-cut diamonds (total diamond weight 6.50 carats), mounted in silver and gold and worn as a brooch/pendant with detachable fittings. There’s a handwritten note in the case describing it as a spinel-ruby from the Hope Collection.

Henry Philip Hope never married and secretly gifted his gem collection to a nephew to avoid inheritance tax. Family wrangling caused the collection to be split among two nephews.

The spinel was eventually sold at auction in 1917 for approximately $1,600 (about $120,000 in today’s currency). It eventually turned up in the collection of Lady Mount Stephen, who was married to a Canadian philanthropist living in the UK. When Stephen died in 1933, the spinel went to her niece-by-marriage, Elsie Reford, who along with her husband, amassed one of the most important collections of art in Canada. The spinel was gifted to Elsie Refords’ granddaughter, who was also Lady Mount Stephen’s god daughter.

“The current owner is a direct descendant who has always known it as being ‘Aunt Gian’s (Lady Mount Stephen) Hope spinel,’” Barber said.

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