Smoke Cascade

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The River Narmada plunges in a waterfall known as Dhuandhar Falls or the smoke cascade. The plunge is so powerful that its roar can be heard from a disance. These Falls are a spectacular sight of nature's power.

Dhuandhar Falls

Bhedaghat, Jabalpur
Madhya Pradesh

Saturday Smile

Near the Rajwada Holkar Palace

Indore

Somvati Kund

Thanks to the Skywatch team members, we now have a variety of skies to enjoy. Go now and admire as many as you can.

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View from Mosque to Tomb

Rainy season is a good time to explore the beauty of Mandu in Madhya Pradesh. There are a number of interesting places to see in Mandu.

Whizzing past

Slightly to the left, off the main road is Darya Khan’s Group of Monuments. Darya Khan is known to be an officer in the court of Sutan Mahmud II who ruled in the 16th century.

Here's the sky..in the tank!

This Group includes the Darya Khan's Tomb, a mosque and a water tank called by the name, Somvati Kund.

C'est Magnifique

Skywatch

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Until I reached Mandu I did not know who Hoshang Shah was. Travel does introduce us to, inter alia, interesting historical figures that we would not have otherwise bothered to find out about, isn’t it?

At the first glance of Hoshang Shah’s Mausoleum in Mandu, the initial thought that crops up is: C'est Magnifique (It's Magnificent).

I do not know much neither about his life and achievements, nor about the circumstances of his death but having read a bit about him, now I know Hoshang Shah is remembered as a warrior with a sympathetic heart and dearly loved by his subjects. It was he who made Mandu one of the most impregnable forts of India. He ruled Malwa for 27 years.


Looking at the gleaming Mausoleum sheathed entirely in white marble, I also think of the Taj Mahal. The work on the Mausoleum was begun by Hoshang Shah himself, who died in 1435, and the work was completed by Mahmoud Khilji in AD 1440. It is probably one of India’s earliest marble structure based on Afghan architecture.

I am not surprised at the claim that Shah Jahan was so impressed by the Mausoleum that he sent a team of his architects to Mandu to study its design before commencing construction of the Taj Mahal. Certainly some inspiration may have been drawn from this Mausoleum. To the uninitiated, the Taj Mahal was completed in and around AD 1648.


I notice the quadrangle on which the Mausoleum is built, and am particularly drawn to its large white dome with smaller cupolas at the corners. The entrance is through a porch.


As expected at Mausoleums, I take off my footwear and step in quietly. The light filtering through its delicately beautiful lattice work gives the place an exquisite effect. The atmosphere is amazingly serene.


Much later, once out, I choose a spot in the calm surroundings at one of the porches supported by decorative colonnades in the western part of the Mausoleum.


The neat garden has many flowering plants. Many jasmine shrubs are in full bloom spreading fragrance around the austere place.


Dark clouds begin to roll across the blue sky, its edges folded in silver.


As the rain is about to pour down, I prepare to leave the Hoshang Shah’s Mausoleum to explore another monument in the vicinity. Glancing back one last time, I think: Death not only ends life; to some, it also bestows upon it a beautiful completeness.

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Mandu can be reached by road from Indore via Dhar, and the nearest airport is in Indore (100 kms). The nearest railheads are Indore and Ratlam (120 km).

Jami Masjid

Strolling through Mandu, I find another group of monuments comprising of the Jami Masjid, the Tomb of Mahmud Khilji and Ashrafi Mahal and the Hoshang Shah’s Mausoleum.

The mosque in red sandstone that greets me in the center of the village of Mandu, on a huge raised plinth with rows of tiny arched chambers, is the Jami Masjid.

Built around 1454, it is alleged to be modelled on the famous Omayyed Mosque in Damascus.

The monumental entrance through a flight of steps from the East to a main arched doorway leads up to a large porch. Screens and bands of glaze tiles decorate the main doorway.

I find the mosque simplistic in design. In the huge courtyard is the huge Qibla, the prayer hall, with numerous rows of majestic arches and pillars which go to support the domes.

There is a pulpit and some finely carved inscriptions on it.

The courtyard is enclosed on all sides by huge colonnades.

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Jahaz Mahal, the Ship Palace

It is a starlit sky. The dancers, musicians, the other artists and entertainers are dressed in their finest best. Lanterns are lit and decorated all over the palace grounds. Music fills up the open halls of the Jahaz Mahal. Sultan Ghiyathuddin Khilji and his trusted men wait for the arrival of the esteemed guest of the evening, Jahangir. The Kathak artists, well trained to be on their feet dancing till the wee hours of the morning, are ready to begin right from the moment the Mughal makes a grand entrance accompanied by his entourage. The night long celebration continues with mujras, thumris and ghazals and much more merriment while wine flows.

That is what I imagine as soon as I set my eyes on the Jahaz Mahal, popularly called the Ship Palace. The Jahaz Mahal is a part of the Royal Enclave of Mandu, the other main one is the Hindola Mahal beside which is the Champa Baodi.


After an idyllic walk through the serene rural atmosphere, passing through the Nagar Panchayat, I reach the gates of the Jahaz Mahal. I see the Palace perched on a narrow strip of land flanked on either side by the lakes, Munj Talao and the Kapur Talao, giving it the appearance of a ship anchored in water. Today, the Kapur Talao has water in it, but the Munj Talao hardly has any, though an underground channel is known to connect the waters of both.


Sultan Ghiyathuddin may have been a person content at his choice of venue to have this Palace built in the latter part of the 15th century. I can imagine the place coming alive during the monsoons when water fills up the lakes and ponds nearby, reflecting the architecture of the Palace. I can also visualize little boats bobbing in the overflowing waters when the pleasure-seeking Sultan went around partying with women and wine.


Though the Palace may have been a grand edifice in the past, it now is in ruins and has a despondent look about it. The history of the Palace, however, speaks volumes about the feasts of the Shab-i-Barat held in honor of Jahangir and his entourage.

In his memoirs, Tuzuk-i-Jahangiri, Jahangir describes how the palace served as a residence for his queen, Noor Jahan, and the grand parties held there. He writes:

“It was a wonderful assembly. As the evening began, they lighted lanterns and lamps all around the tanks and building....the like of which was perhaps never been arranged in any place. The lamps cast their reflection on the water and it appeared as if the whole surface of the tank was a plain of fire. A grand entertainment took place and the inebriates indulged themselves to excess.”

As I walk around exploring, I once again imagine the lit lanterns and festivity going on around the beautiful Palace in those days.


In the rear are attached pavilions probably for the women of the royal harem. I can visualize the curtains hanging from their arched openings whispering tales of the past.


I find carved niches around the swimming areas, and spacious terraces and more open pavilions, some of them ornamented with bands of tiles and bearing traces of paintings of the floral motifs.


It is late evening. At the terrace of the Jahaz Mahal, the cool monsoon breeze is palpable on my face like a nippy caress. Along with panorama of domes and turrets of the Palace, I watch the rain clouds above the Vindhya mountains gathering and rolling, ready to pour out from the heavens while the sun behind begins to descend at its steady pace. Shivering lightly, I keep glancing at the sky till the light fades, giving way to the approaching darkness.

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Mandu can be reached by road from Indore via Dhar, and the nearest airport is in Indore, almost 100 kms away.

Hindola Mahal, the Swinging Palace

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The Hindola Mahal is styled as the 'Swinging Palace' for its unique architecture with its sidewalls sloping majestically as if swinging.

This Palace is presumed to be constructed by Sultan Ghiyathuddin Khilji (AD 1469-1500) mainly to use as an Audience Hall. The T-shaped projection at the northern end was added later probably for ladies of those times to have access to the Palace. Behind the Hindola Mahal is the Royal Bath and Champa Baodi, whose waters were alleged to be smelling of Champa flowers. Nearby is the Jahaz Mahal, all together forming the Royal Enclave.

I shall write about the Jahaz Mahal in my next post. Until then, here are a few pictures of the Hindola Mahal.

An Evening in Mandu

“There is fragrance in the air” I said, as I tried to recall memories of the familiar scent in the air. It reminded me of my childhood. “Yes,” concurs my travel companion, walking along with me in that remote part of Mandu, Madhya Pradesh.

Mandu is a fort on top of a plateau in the Vindhya mountain range protected by what the locals call it Khakra Khoh, a deep ravine surrounding it from three sides and multiple number of gates protecting its entrance from north. Considered to be one of the largest fortified forts in the world, its historical buildings, monuments and palaces are now in ruins.

Spread out in a small region, Mandu can be covered by foot. Most of the tourists travel to Mandu in private vehicles for a day's trip or extend it to two, but I was here, not just to see the sights, but to stay and experience Mandu in the monsoons. My trip would last 5 whole days and nights!

I had reached Mandu just an hour back. Setting out after breakfast from Indore, the 70 kms journey to Dhar took almost three hours. The remaining 30 kms from Dhar to Mandu in a rickety local bus lasted another hour. I did not get an opportunity to have lunch anywhere at a decent place. So, the moment I reach Mandu Retreat, I have some snacks with a cup of tea and immediately set out to explore the place, not knowing where the road would lead me that evening.

Closest to the Retreat is the Gada Shah’s Shop, a Palace supposedly used by Medini Ray, a Rajput chief during the reign of Mahmud II. Why is it so named? I have no idea. Next to it are the stepwells, Ujali Baodi and Andheri Baodi.

I stop briefly to watch a couple working in a field nearby while their kids frolicked around with stones and sticks. In the background, I can view the famous Jahaz Mahal.

I cross the Delhi gate and yet another similar majestic one, and I climb a path to reach a wooded area with a narrow road that shows a sign to Chisti Khan’s Palace.

A cuckoo sings, and in the distance, at a gazebo, I see a movement and through my cam, find a couple in a secluded spot. From the height I get a better view of the Vindhya mountains at a distance. The sun lies low and is ready to set for the day.

Because of the monsoons, the entire ground has turned into a carpet of green grass. The sky is a beautiful sight with its warm colors, in contrast to the green hues of the abounding flora.

It was on this serene road at a height, with no traffic and no urban disturbance, that I get the first whiff of sweet smell in the air. Walking a little ahead, I begin to recognize the fragrance, as it brings back memories of my childhood when I was used to seeing women plait and adorn long hair with sweet-smelling flowers.

“It’s the fragrance of jasmine,” I squeal in delight. The fragrance of unseen jasmine blossoms fills up my senses and then I see this plant, and walking ahead, I catch sight of a few more such plants.

Yes, it is jasmine growing in the wild and as I head towards the ruins of Chisti Khan’s Palace, the fragrance only gets stronger. I come across many more wild jasmine blossoms and the sweet smell in the air is overwhelming.

At the end of the road on the edge of a projecting spur to the east stands the Chisti Khan’s Palace. Built in the 16th century as a retreat for the rainy season, I can view a central court enclosed by a number of halls and rooms, but is in ruins. There is a Persian inscription making a poignant reference to the desolation of the surroundings. The Palace certainly must have seen better times in its days of glory. The view from the top is worth a few more shots. Cool breeze and changing sunset colors only adds to the overall pleasing effect.

The joy of being in a new place and the scenery with views of the Vindhya mountains fills me up with joy. The wisps of clouds kissing the valley, the calming sounds of birds retiring to their nests, blowing cool breeze, trees swaying lightly, leaves rustling in the serenity of the place, light drizzle on and off, the changing colors of the sunset - being in the midst of all this gives an intoxicating feeling.

I take some more pictures of the sun setting far away in the Vindhyan mountains.

As cool breeze blows, I descend, and the flora continues to sway gently in the scent of the jasmine night.

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"Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on,
deep and permanent, in the ideas of living."
~ M. Beard

Open Skies

View a variety of skies at Skywatch.

No sizzling summer, no dry spells, no office timings to adhere to, no schedules, no deadlines to meet, no traffic on the road, no hustle and bustle of city life...at least not for a while! That's what I felt when I took a flight to go on a short holiday.

After a brief stop in Mumbai...

Taj, Mumbai

And in Indore...

Rajwada - Holkar Palace, Indore

Passing through Dhar....

A street in Dhar

I spent a major part of my holidays this month in a small rocky spur of the Vindhyan mountain range, in a fort that was the dwelling place of the Parmara rulers of Malwa and the Sultans of yore.

Jami Masjid and Hoshang Shah's Tomb, Mandu

I liked the historical significance of Mandu, Madhya Pradesh and also the serenity of the Vindhya mountains.

On the way to Neelkanth, Mandu

In Mandu, I set out on endless walks with gay abandon, chatting up with friendly locals, biking around for commuting and recreation, in drizzle and downpour, munching on piping hot pakodas and sipping endless cups of hot chai. I was content cosying up on a couch and reading books, or admiring the lush green surroundings, or taking breaks to simply enjoy the pitter-patter of rain drops and the soothing monsoon breeze, or watch the changing colours of a sunset.

Sunset from Chisti Khan's Palace, Mandu

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We live in a wonderful world that is full of
beauty, charm and adventure.
There is no end to the adventures we can have
if only we seek them with our eyes open.
~ J. Nehru