My Old Friend, the SWAP

SWAP = Sewing with a Plan

Many of you are familiar with this concept, having either read about it or participated in the contests.  Back in the day, Julie of Timmel Fabrics (Julie, if you're reading, I sure do miss you and your fabric!) ran the SWAP contest.  These days, the lovely folks over at Stitcher's Guild Forum have taken over the reins.

The SWAP concept (and subsequent Timmel Fabrics contest) was based on an idea presented in Australian Stitches magazine about a decade or so ago.  The idea was to create a wardrobe that is cohesive, both in colour and style.  The different garments (one jacket, two pairs of pants, two skirts and six tops were required in the original SWAP contest) in a grouping should work together to provide the wearer with several mix and match outfits.

I used to do almost all of my sewing in SWAPs.   However, over the last while I had gotten away from sewing this way.  Well, earlier this week I was perusing back issues of Australian Stitches magazine.  Lynn Cook (one of the editors) had put together a lovely wardrobe (see issues Vol. 15, No. 9 to Vol. 16 No. 4 if they are available to you).  In the first issue, she sewed up a jacket, two skirts, a pair of pants and two tops in black, white and red fabrics.  In each consecutive issue, she added to the mix with further garments.  Along the way, she added in other colours (orange, teal, bone, lavender, etc).  In the end, she created a beautifully coordinated wardrobe. 

This was very inspiring to read, so based on her plans, I put together my own version:

SWAP Phase 1 - based on Vol. 15 No. 9:

SWAP Phase 2 - based on Vol. 15 No. 10:

SWAP Phase 3 - based on Vol. 15 No. 11: 

SWAP Phase 4 - based on Vol. 15 No. 12:

SWAP Phase 5 - based on Vol. 16 No. 1:

SWAP Phase 6 - based on Vol. 16 No. 2:

SWAP Phase 7 - based on Vol. 16 No. 3:

SWAP Phase 8 - based on Vol. 16 No. 4:

The vast majority of fabrics were in my stash.  However, I do have three fabrics that are still alluding me at this point (ETA: I found three fabrics that finished off my SWAP, so the storyboards have been updated).  The patterns are a mix of recent and older ones that I had in my possession.  I may add or modify as I go along if I find it necessary.

I have already started on the plans above - one garment is finished and several more are cut out.  So, stay tuned...

Purple Nurple

Not much sewing has been going on around Chez HZC lately (due to exploding life syndrome). So in a desperate attempt to ensure that my faithful readers don't abandon me, I will be presenting some of my daily outfits over the next while (at least until I get my arse back in front of my Kenmore). Practically everything I wear has come off my sewing machine, so at least I'm still remotely on point.

I made this top and skirt in January of this year, but didn't get any photos of myself wearing them. I don't wear a lot of purple as it is tricky to find a shade of purple that doesn't clash horribly with my hair. I think this outfit works because of the copper mottling in the lace top that matches my hair colour.

To finish off the outfit, I donned a pair of dark purple tights and a funky mother of pearl and silver filigree pendant necklace. The shoes are a new acquisition from Naturalizer - a funky pair of low heeled mary janes in a gorgeous pinot noir (purply burgundy) pebbly leather. Not only are they comfortable for clomping around school all day long but they are so darn cute!


**Although I have never been the perpetrator nor the victim of the dreaded "purple nurple", I have always been amused by this rhyming phrase. However, I can't help but wonder who came up with such a cutesy name to describe this weird bullying technique. Yeesh.

Purple Haze

Let me state this right up front. I don't wear purple. I used to wear purple. But, then I stopped wearing purple. Why, you might ask? I don't know. So, it was time for some purple.

The skirt fabric is a wonderful RPL that looks like a tropical weight wool - it's heavy and drapey and spongey and gorgeous. It has a reddish brown background and flecks of purple throughout. The top fabric is a mottled copper/purple lace with a small amount of stretch. I bought both of these fabrics from Julie of Timmel Fabrics. Let me just take a moment to mourn the closing of this business. It was so nice to have a Canadian fabric supplier. The fabrics were wonderful and the customer service was exceptional. Paying in Canadian dollars and reasonable shipping costs were just an extra added bonus. I would say that a third of my sizable stash came from Timmel.

The skirt is made from a TNT skirt pattern, Simplicity 4599, that I have made at least half a dozen times (a couple of previous versions can be found here) and I am never disappointed. The skirt pattern does not call for a lining, but since this was to be a winter skirt, I added one. The lining adds warmth and it allows me to wear the skirt over tights with out worrying about the skirt catching on the tights when I walk. The lining is a silk brocade that I got in a bundle from Fabric Mart.


The top is New Look 6838 and it is another TNT pattern. I go for this pattern when I need a simple, clean top that lets the fabric shine. The lace is see-through so I underlined it with a brown knit.


I'm glad I rediscovered purple because I really like this outfit. It is comfortable, yet appropriate for work.

New Look 6327

Pattern: New Look 6327 - view D













Size: NL6327 comes in sizes 8 to 18. I used size 8 for the waist and 10 for the hip.

Fabric: Camel RPL Gabardine from Timmel Fabrics.









Project Photo:
Comments: This is item number six completed in my fall/winter SWAP.

I have had this pattern for a while and I just never got around to making it until now. I am a big fan of patterns with vertical panels and flare at the bottom, so my desire for this pattern is a no-brainer.

Unfortunately, my first go at this skirt ended in disaster. I flat pattern measured and I was sure it would fit. So, I cut out the pattern, sewed up the seams, overcast the seams, topstitched the seams and inserted the zipper. Just before attaching the waist finish and hemming, I decided to try on the skirt. It was too big. How did this happen? Well, in my enthusiasm to complete another garment, I forgot to take into account the stretchiness of the RPL fabric. At this point, there was no way I was going to pick apart all those finished and topstitched seams - there are easier ways to drive yourself crazy! It's moments like this that bring me back down to earth. Here am I, an advanced seamstress, pretty darn confident in my fitting and sewing skills - and then, whammo, a dose of humility! I guess pride really does come before the fall! :)

So, back to the drawing board. I decided to cut out the same size this time, but to sew slightly deeper seams. The fit this time was much better.

The construction of this skirt is quite simple, so I won't linger on it. However, I do want to talk about a few embellishment tweaks. I topstiched the central front and back panels with brown buttonhole thread. I also sewed on a brown cording and "leather" trim at the base of the skirt where the straight panels join to the ruffle. I think this gives the skirt a bit more interest.

Conclusion: A simple skirt with great lines. All in all, an excellent addition to any professional wardrobe.

New Look 6637 & Loes Hinse 5209 (Princess Tank)

Pattern: New Look 6637 & Loes Hinse 5209 (Princess Tank)

Size: NL6637 comes in sizes 8 to 18 - I used size 8. LH5209 comes in sizes XXS to XXL - I used XXS.




























Fabric: Rust linen/cotton blend from Fabricland & White Needle Out Interlock from Wazoodle.










Project Photo:














Comments: I have had this New Look pattern for a very long time (probably since the late 80s/early 90s). While browsing around the New Look website, I noticed that it had been reissued and it inspired me to get my copy out and finally use it! I cannot say enough wonderful things about this wrap skirt. It fits me perfectly right out of the package. The only variance from the instructions was that I used flat felled seams throughout to keep the inside of the skirt neater.

I have made the LH Princess tank before and I really like its lines. The first time I made it, however, I had to do a fair bit of alteration. I normally use the XXS in Loes' patterns, so of course my first attempt at this pattern was with the XXS. It was HUGE. To remedy this, I folded out an inch on both the front and back pattern pieces and overlapped an inch on both the side pieces. Now, it fits beautifully.

Conclusion: I really like how this outfit turned out - I feels like I'm ready for a quick game of tennis whenever I put it on! I will definitely be making both of these garments again.

_____________________

Q&A: I was asked a couple of questions in the comments recently and I wanted to take a bit of time to answer them.

• Becky asked, "I'm also curious as to how you did the elastic in the neckline, since I'm constantly having issues with necklines being too low. Especially on knits."

I don't really have any magic formula as to how I add the elastic. In most cases, if the neckline finish is simply turned and stitched down, I just thread elastic through the small "casing" that is created by the neckline hem. I tend to knot the elastic at one end of the casing and also at the other end, leaving a 3 inch piece hanging from either end, on the inside of the garment. This way I can tightened or loosen the elastic thread in the future if needed. I use the elastic thread that is normally used for shirring.

• Carolyn asked, "So when do you start back to school sewing!?"

Well, I don't really have a set date on which I start my fall/winter sewing. I have actually completed a few pieces already, interspersed with my summer sewing. I have, however, been madly working on a couple of fall/winter SWAP storyboards. Both SWAPs contain a full phase one (11 garments), phase two (9 garments) & phase three (7 garments). One of the SWAPs has a green/brown/orange/cream theme and the other is a teal/brown/caramel/cream colourway. I'm not sure yet which one will take precedence in the sewing line-up. When I decide, I'll share the storyboard.