My Old Friend, the SWAP

SWAP = Sewing with a Plan

Many of you are familiar with this concept, having either read about it or participated in the contests.  Back in the day, Julie of Timmel Fabrics (Julie, if you're reading, I sure do miss you and your fabric!) ran the SWAP contest.  These days, the lovely folks over at Stitcher's Guild Forum have taken over the reins.

The SWAP concept (and subsequent Timmel Fabrics contest) was based on an idea presented in Australian Stitches magazine about a decade or so ago.  The idea was to create a wardrobe that is cohesive, both in colour and style.  The different garments (one jacket, two pairs of pants, two skirts and six tops were required in the original SWAP contest) in a grouping should work together to provide the wearer with several mix and match outfits.

I used to do almost all of my sewing in SWAPs.   However, over the last while I had gotten away from sewing this way.  Well, earlier this week I was perusing back issues of Australian Stitches magazine.  Lynn Cook (one of the editors) had put together a lovely wardrobe (see issues Vol. 15, No. 9 to Vol. 16 No. 4 if they are available to you).  In the first issue, she sewed up a jacket, two skirts, a pair of pants and two tops in black, white and red fabrics.  In each consecutive issue, she added to the mix with further garments.  Along the way, she added in other colours (orange, teal, bone, lavender, etc).  In the end, she created a beautifully coordinated wardrobe. 

This was very inspiring to read, so based on her plans, I put together my own version:

SWAP Phase 1 - based on Vol. 15 No. 9:

SWAP Phase 2 - based on Vol. 15 No. 10:

SWAP Phase 3 - based on Vol. 15 No. 11: 

SWAP Phase 4 - based on Vol. 15 No. 12:

SWAP Phase 5 - based on Vol. 16 No. 1:

SWAP Phase 6 - based on Vol. 16 No. 2:

SWAP Phase 7 - based on Vol. 16 No. 3:

SWAP Phase 8 - based on Vol. 16 No. 4:

The vast majority of fabrics were in my stash.  However, I do have three fabrics that are still alluding me at this point (ETA: I found three fabrics that finished off my SWAP, so the storyboards have been updated).  The patterns are a mix of recent and older ones that I had in my possession.  I may add or modify as I go along if I find it necessary.

I have already started on the plans above - one garment is finished and several more are cut out.  So, stay tuned...

Cozy, Cozy, Cozy

Some mornings it's all about ease of wearing. There are days when I just need to be comfortable. However, it's easy to run the risk of comfortable turning into sloppy. I made a promise to myself several years back that even when I don't feel like dressing up, I still have to make some effort.

That is what this outfit is all about. Three easy pieces that feel comfy, but look pulled together. The ivory long sleeve top is a Land's End purchase (they make the best T-shirts - they really can't be beat for quality and price when you don't have the time to make it from scratch). The wheat coloured sweater layered over the top is also RTW, bought at a local clothing store. I love the shawl collar, the 3/4 sleeves and the empire waist - such a flattering shape. The pants are Loes Hinse Oxfords, made from some navy cotton broadcloth. These pants were meant to be a muslin to test out the fit of this pattern, but they turned out so well that they found their way into my closet.

The finishing touches are a pair of dark red leather flats and a jade pendant strung on a dark red cord.

Comfy, cozy and cute for a Friday that finished off a very long week.

Me & My Oxfords

I know I said I wouldn't be posting because I'm in Florida, but I scheduled this posting before I left. I couldn't resist showing off another new pair of shoes in action.

First the outfit breakdown. I wore a Land's End long sleeved T-shirt in white underneath a chocolate brown ruffle front knit tank I made in the summer. The skirt is a wearable muslin I made for my Chanelish suit from the last Timmel SWAP. My accessories are a thin brown leather belt to cinch in the waist, some cool crochet Hue tights and of course, my cute suede/leather Oxfords.

I put this outfit together last week and I like how it came out. Considering I've never worn Oxfords, much less high heeled Oxfords, I think I did a respectable job of styling them.

Whatcha think?

Bootie or Not Bootie

In a previous post, I professed my growing love for the skirt, tights, bootie combo that I'm seeing around the fashion blogs as of late. Some commenters agreed with me that the look is potentially super cute and others were not sold on the whole thing. I must admit when I first saw booties worn with skirts, I thought it looked ridiculous. However, as time has past, I think I have become more accustomed to the silhouette and I now think it's quite fetching.

So, today I put together my first bootie-tights-skirt (I first typed this as tight-bootie-skirt and got a good chuckle) outfit. The skirt is Simplicity 4422 (view F), done up in a burgundy tweed flecked with dark brown and tan. The top is Vogue 2759 in a dark brown knit.

I must say that I felt pretty good in the outfit all day long and received compliments from both students and colleagues. Looking at the photo though, I think next time I will try and match the colour of the tights more closely to the bootie for a longer leg line. As well, I never tuck in my tops, so this was a real departure for me, but it actually doesn't look as bad as I expected. Last but not least, this outfit makes the pesky 10 lbs I want to drop a little more obvious than I would like - time to hit the treadmill and weight machine harder. So, all in all, pretty good, but a few things to keep in mind for next time.

So, what do y'all think? Yay or nay? Bear in mind that I am venturing into new territory here, so please be gentle.

McCall's 5042 - Numero Cuatro

Pattern: McCall's 5042 (view A)


Size: size 8

Fabric: Yellow with orange, black and white floral print stretch cotton from Fabricland (Canadian chain fabric store).

Project Photo:

Comments: This is a V-neck version of the pattern that has been near and dear to my heart as of late (see here, here and here).

This dress is done is a heavyweight stretch cotton that I picked up for a song in the clearance section of my local chain fabric store last year. I really like the funky floral pattern.

This dress is made the same way as the other three, so not much to add.

Conclusion: Another quick and easy, yet flattering and fun to wear version of M5042.

McCall's 5042 - Numero Tres

Pattern: McCall's 5042 (view A)


Size: size 8

Fabric: Brown with lime and white floral print stretch cotton from Fabricland (Canadian chain fabric store).

Project Photo:

Comments: As a comment to my last sewing post, lsaspacey said..."You should definitely try the V-neck now!" Well, don't ever say I'm not responsive to my readers - you ask and I deliver.

I am not normally a fan of the V-neck. My smaller than average chest is typically not flattered by showing an expanse of sternum, so I tend to stick to crew necks, boat necks and the like. However, this V-neck is high enough that it is still flattering.

As with the other two dresses (here and here) made using this patterns, this new dress also sports a lined bodice and an unlined skirt.

Conclusion: Due to the dark brown background of the fabric, this dress should do an excellent job of transitioning me into fall. On warmer days, it can go solo. On cooler days, I can toss on a cardigan and perhaps a belt. So versatile.

On a non-sewing note, today is my first official day back to work - with classes and students and all the chaos that goes along with it. Wish me luck - I'm sure I'll need it!

McCall's 5042 - Numero Dos

Pattern: McCall's 5042 (view C)


Size: size 8

Fabric: Brown with teal, lime & white floral print stretch cotton from Fabricland (Canadian chain fabric store).

Project Photo:

Comments: Same dress as yesterday, made in the exact same way. The only difference is that this fabric is a midweight stretch cotton and yesterday's dress used a lightweight stretch cotton.

Yesterday and today are my first days back to school. There are no kids in the school for classes until September 8th, as the days this week are professional development days. I wore yesterday's dress to school yesterday (imagine that!) and received many compliments. One young teacher told me that I "always look like I'm on What Not to Wear." I chuckled and said, "Is that a good thing?" To which she quickly added that I look like the "after" shots not the "before." So, I guess it is a good thing.

Conclusion: I love the high neckline, fitted waist and fuller skirt of this dress. It is a dream draft for a pear like me!

Textile Studio Shell & Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants

Pattern: Textile Studio Shell & Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants (view A)


Size: Shell - size XS; Pants - size S.

Fabric: Shell - brown knit from Fabricland (Canadian chain fabric store); Pants - tencel woven from Nancy's Notions

Project Photo:

Comments: The pants are another version of the cropped Hepburns I have made in the past so not much to say about them.

The top was inspired by a J.Crew offering (see photo to the right). I've noticed that ruffles seem to be all over this place for fall. I'm not really a fluffy, floaty ruffle kind of gal, so I've mostly ignored the trend. However, when I saw these small, understated ruffles, they struck a chord with me and I knew I had to make a similar top. I used a remnant of a soft knit fabric that I had lolling in my scrap bin for a practice run. I simply cut strips of the knit width-wise, sewed a basting stitch down the middle of each strip and pulled on the thread ends to gather the fabric. The gathered strips were pinned to the shell in the desired location and stitched down in place. Finally the basting threads were removed. My top is made entirely from knit fabric, whereas the inspiration top has woven ruffles on a knit tank. Either way, these tiny ruffles are super cute!

Conclusion: I have plans for some more ruffled up tops since I really like the way this wearable muslin version turned out.

Simplicity 3867

Pattern: Simplicity 3867 (view A & F)


Size: size 8

Fabric: Lime w/teal and white floral print cotton voile & teal cotton voile, both from Fabricland (Canadian chain fabric store).

Project Photo: The dress, both with the jacket and without.


Comments: I bought this pattern when it first came out and promptly cut out the dress. Then it sat languishing on a pile for two years, sad and forgotten. Well, no more, I finally rescued the poor thing from a life of banishment. It's nice to check one off the UFO pile!

This dress (and the accompanying bolero) went together very easily - no fuss, no muss. It's perfect for warm days when I need to be a bit dressier - it will work wonderfully for work in the early fall.

The only change I made to the pattern is a broad back adjustment (BBA) on both the dress and bolero. Although I am small through the chest, I find that I have a disproportionately large back across the shoulder blades. This can make my tops feel like they are pulling across the back when I try to reach forward. This is especially true at school when I am trying to write on the chalkboard. This BBA is just the trick needed to add a bit of ease where I need it.

Conclusion: Pretty dress, cute bolero. I have already cut out another version of the dress in an Anna Sui scarf panel silk.

Vogue 2267

Pattern: Vogue 2267 (a vintage reprint pattern)


Size: size 8

Fabric: Medium weight cotton (that looks just like linen) with an orange floral leaf pattern from Fabricland (a Canadian chain fabric store).

Project Photo:

Comments: Originally, I had planned on making this dress up in formal fabric. However, I figured first I better sew up a (hopefully) wearable muslin since the lines of this design are such that I didn't see any way to fix any major fitting problems after the dress was in progress. So, I rooted around in my fabric cupboard and found this fabric. I bought it on clearance at a local fabric store and got it for a song - so if things turned disastrous, I wasn't out a load of loot.

In the end, I'm glad I didn't go straight for the good fabric as there was one major fitting issue. The largest problem is with the neckline being far too wide for my shoulders, which causes the straps to constantly slip down my arm. If I make this dress again I will be reducing the width of the centre front panel and increasing the width of the side panels. This should keep the straps on my shoulders where they belong. Otherwise, the dress fits nicely every where else.

One change I made from the original pattern was to hem the dress right at the knee instead of part way down the calf. At the longer length, the dress was a bit too matronly and unflattering. The other change was that instead of using facings around the neckline and arms, I lined the entire dress in a fine cotton batiste. Essentially, I just made a second dress out of the batiste and joined the fashion fabric and the batiste at the neckline and armsyces.

ETA: A few commenters have asked if I "slimmed down" the skirt to make it more narrow, as it looks fuller in the drawing on the pattern envelope. I did not - the skirt is made exactly as the pattern specifies. I think the illustrator took a bit of creative license when creating the envelope art!

This dress is not a loss however. I can still wear it to work with a cardigan over top of it and the sweater should provide enough friction to keep the straps in their proper position.

Conclusion: A nice dress that requires a few tweaks to get it perfect.

Simplicity 3874

Pattern: Simplicity 3874 (view B)


Size: size 8 from shoulder to high hip, out to size 12 downward (I probably only need to go out to a 10 here, but I sit a lot in my job, so I wanted the extra room for comfort)

Fabric: Peach bubble print polyester woven (normally I hate 100% poly, but this fabric is actually quite nice) from Fabricland (a Canadian chain fabric store).









Project Photo:

Comments: I have made this dress once before and I absolutely love wearing it. It is such a simple, easy-to-sew dress that is so flattering on my body type. I love the empire styling and the bow that cinches up the front. Not to mention the great raglan sleeves, that add width to my shoulders to balance out my bottom half. This dress is an all around winner.

As with the other version of this dress, I chose to leave it unlined, since the fabric is quite opaque. Also, I will normally be wearing it in warmer weather, so I didn't want to add to the non-breathability of the polyester fabric. If I do wear the dress on a cooler day, I can add a separate slip and a cardigan to keep me warm.

Next time I make this dress, I am debating about leaving out the back zipper. The dress goes on over my head, even if it's zipped up. The only problem with this is that I like to get dressed after doing my makeup and hair and I don't want to mess that up putting on a zipperless dress. Hmm, decisions, decisions...

Conclusion: Such a wonderful dress! I have a few other versions on the drawing board and hopefully I'll get them made up in the near future.

...5...

This is another Simplicity 4599 that I made several years ago. And believe me, if you looked on the inside you could tell - the seam finish is atrocious, but the outside looks reasonable, so I still wear it. Does anyone else ever look back on earlier creations and cringe at the quality?

The fabric is a cotton pique, purchased at Fabricland, my local chain fabric store. The fabric has a white background with teal, purple, lime and black dots, so there are a bunch of different colours that can be worn with this skirt. Unfortunately in this picture, I went a bit boring with a white rib knit tank top and a black RTW cropped cardigan. I was in a hurry to get out the door that day - I had professional development meetings all day long.

...4...

Often as seamstresses, I think we worry that if we make the same pattern over and over again people will notice and think that we're kinda goofy. Well, I have worn all the Simplicity 4599 skirts that I have been posting lately over the last week and a half and no one has said a word. Believe me, if my students had noticed the repetition, they would say something - teenagers have little to no tact.

I think we forget that the general public doesn't dissect an outfit, piece by piece, seam by seam, like a seamstress would. The typically person on the street sees an outfit as a whole - the overall impression of the colours and style lines are noticed, not the technical aspects. I truly believe I could get away with having around 10 patterns total (including all skirts, pants, dresses, tops and jackets) and no one would be the wiser. Change up the fabric and embellishments, and presto, a full wardrobe with minimum futzing. But, as my stash of over 500 patterns will attest to, I like buying patterns if for no other reason than to dream of the possibilities.

So, dear reader, how do you do it? Do you have a few TNT patterns that you squeeze for all they are worth? Or do you flit from pattern to pattern, always looking for the next great thing? Or do you have a mix, combining the best of both worlds?

To finish this post up, I've included another version of Simplicity 4599, in a lightweight cotton swiss dot. I absolutely adore the print on this fabric - it has so many of my favourite colours to wear. The white rib knit tank top is Kwik Sew 2948 and the brown knit cardigan is RTW.

A Couple of Cozies

This winter was one of the coldest, nastiest, snowiest winters that I can remember in a long time. It was a winter made for hot chocolate and snuggling under mounds of blankets. Unfortunately, since I couldn't hibernate all winter long, I needed some warm sweaters to throw on when the mercury dropped.

The first sweater is a tunic made using a maple coloured boucle knit from Timmel Fabrics. It was a perfect match for the Loes Hinse Cowl Neck Top pattern. The second sweater is a cardigan made from a lovely teal boucle knit fabric from Fabricland, a local chain store. It was made from a shortened version of the Loes Hinse Sweater Coat pattern. Both sweaters were comfy, cozy and easy to wear - a huge win in my book!

ETA: I have been asked about the closures on the teal sweater coat. I used four large silver sew on snaps (the largest I could find - size 10 - about 2 cm in diameter). The snaps are spaced approximately 15 cm apart starting at the top and they extend down to just below the waist.







In other news, you could have bowled me over with a feather today when I read Audrey's blog. Apparently, Elizabeth Joyce (an Australian Stitches reader) recommended my blog along with the blogs of Audrey, Tany and Trena in a recent issue. This can be found in the Internet sites feature in Volume 16 Issue 11 (pictured to the left). There is a nifty little write-up and a picture for each blog. To be grouped in with these other fabulous seamstresses is a real honour.

So, a heartfelt thank you to Elizabeth!

Back in Black

Happy 2009 everyone! May this year bring happiness, health and joy to you and your loved ones. But most of all, may the sewing gods smile down upon each and every one of you!

Now, on to the sewing...I have wanted to make cardigan 103 and skirt 118 from BWOF for a while now. Considering the issue is from September 2005, I do believe I allowed the patterns to age the appropriate amount of time before use. Well, I could just kick myself now - why, oh why, didn't I make these patterns up sooner? I am madly in love with the cardigan and I have a fairly serious crush on the skirt!

To test the fit of each garment, I made a wearable muslin in some less expensive fabrics I had in the stash. The cardigan was made from a black boucle knit fabric and the skirt from some black RPL suiting, both from a Wazoodle flash sale. I made size 36 for both garments, with no original alterations. This proved to be perfect for the cardigan, but the skirt did require a narrowing of the yoke to fit my waist better.

I love the cardigan so much I have already made it up in another fabric (I'll show it you in a future post). I have plans to revisit the skirt as well, although the next time, I will be making a shorter version - the amount of fabric in the longer length is a bit overwhelming on my short body.

I also made a top to wear under the cardigan. I used the free pattern, Lydia, from Burda Style. I love this style of top, as it can be made in a wide variety of fabrics and each version will look different. I used up a remnant of a fabric I had used in my SWAP 2007.

So, here are the finished garments. The black garments are basically dark amoebas in the photos so I tried to lighten them up a bit. Alas, this only helped marginally, but here goes:

Dirn It All!

I love dirndl skirts, so when I saw these two gorgeous border print fabrics at my local Fabricland, I could not resist picking up 2 m of each. These skirts could not be easier to make. Cut the fabric to the desired length (in my case, 24" + 4" for the hem), sew up the single seam after inserting an invisible zipper, throw on a straight waistband, tack on a hook/eye and presto...a summer skirt ready for wearing!

I'm not sure which one I like more - the coral or the teal. And as an added bonus, I still have the extra fabric that was cut off, which will make a cute summer top (or two).

ETA for TwilaO: Both skirts were made from the full 2 m lengths of fabric, gathered to fit the waistband.

McCall's 5632 & Butterick 5187

Pattern: McCall's 5632 (view C) & Butterick 5187 (view A)






























Size: I used the size 8 for both patterns.

Fabric:
For the capris: stretch denim from Fabric Mart.
For the cardigan: papaya linen from Timmel Fabrics (sadly defunct now).

Project Photos & Comments:
Capris ~ I wanted a pair of denim capris as the pair I have now are becoming increasingly thread bare. M5632 appealed to me the first time I saw it, although I don't normally like pants with pleats. This pattern is well drafted and went together smoothly from start to finish. Unfortunately, I am not in love with the pleats, the cuffs or the extremely wide bottom leg circumference on these capris - they all add up to making me look a tad stumpy. If I attempt these capris again, I will be narrowing the leg, forgoing the cuffs and making them in a fabric with more drape and flow - I think that will remedy the "stumpiness" issues.


Cardigan ~ This is just the cutest cardi! I love all the views and hope to make each of them. I decided to start with view A because it spoke the loudest to me. I had some leftover papaya linen from a sundress project a couple of years ago and the weight of it was perfect for this project. I was so pleased when all the pattern pieces just barely squeezed onto my fabric remnant. However, when I cut out the pattern pieces, I must have been daydreaming because I forgot to cut doubles of a few key pieces - namely the inside front and back yokes. I had to use some ecru linen (the only linen I had at the time that was in a compatible colour) to cut these missing pieces. The inside back yoke wasn't a major concern because it isn't visible when the cardigan is being worn. The inside front yoke was a different story, as it also backs the ties at the neck, which are clearly visible when worn.

What to do? What to do? How do I make this screw up look intentional? Well, after putting together the jacket, I top stitched (with a decorative asterisk stitch pre-programmed into my sewing machine) various sections of the papaya regions of the cardigan in a thread that matched the ecru linen. Also, the ecru ties were likewise top stitched with papaya thread. As you can see in the photo to the left, my bonehead mistake now looks like a "design feature" or at least that's what I have been telling myself (so, don't burst my bubble). In the end, I really like this cardigan - it gives off a vintage (1940s?), nautical feel to me.

Conclusion: I am still on the fence as to whether I'll make the capris again, but I will certainly be making all the views of the cardigan. The cardi is a perfect summer cover up for a cool evening or for the daytime when my shoulders are getting roasted in the sun.