Paddling the Entire Ipswich River - 4/14/2013

The Ipswich River, located on the North Shore of Boston, is 35 miles long in its entirety. The river supports dozens of communities along its banks. One can pass over the Ipswich River on bridges in many different towns, but to experience the river in its entirety, between all of those bridges is a completely unique experience. Whether you paddle it in a small section, all at once, or even multiple times, the river seems to always be enjoyable.

In August of 2012, I did a solo paddle from South Middleton to Little Neck, where the Ipswich River empties into the Atlantic Ocean. This was a total distance of 25.8 miles. It was a dry time of year, and the river was extremely low. However, I was fortunate enough to make it without any problems, got to see an abundance of wildlife, which is good. With the river as low as it was, I didn't want to take the chance of running aground in the marsh in Middleton, one of the most inaccessible areas from nearby riverbank.

Despite that being quite an epic paddle for me, I had not done it as completely as I wanted. This time, I was back with my brother to paddle it completely, and this would be the first time I've paddled since August 2012, and my brother even longer. Would we be able to do this in one day?

The actual start of the Ipswich River is located off of Woburn Street in Wilmington, MA. The only available parking is down the street on a cul-de-sac, so launching here is tough unless you're doing a short paddle. We needed to leave our car all day and get picked up in Ipswich. We opted to put-in at the Ipswich River Park in North Reading, instead of there. This is the furthest easy-to-park launching spot to launch a full length paddle of the Ipswich River. We didn't want to be parking in a cul-de-sac, unloading kayaks at 5:30am in the morning. This leaves the very first 1.5 miles of the river technically un-paddled, but its most often un-passable in a boat.

With that out of the way, at sunrise we unloaded the car, and put-in to the calm, but flowing river in North Reading, and off we were for a loooong journey to the ocean. The first leg of the paddle was just a little bit over 5 miles to the Bostik Dam. This is always a definite portage. The take out is on the left, before the concrete pad. You can put back in anywhere after the drop. From here, the quickwater provides a nice little push to get back going again as it flows through the corner of West Peabody and into Middleton.

Just starting near Ipswich River Park in North Reading 

Approaching the "infinity river" at Bostik Dam 

Bostik Dam near the Middleton and West Peabody line

From Russell Street in Peabody to Route 114 in Middleton is one of the lesser paddled sections of the river. Just after the bridge on Russell Street, while I was still riding the quickwater, I noticed two deer off to my left in the woods, camouflaged well. They were tough to see, but were pretty close as I floated by. Once the walking path disappears from the right, the river winds through the wet land area in South Middleton. In this section, we came across two different white herons and many other birds. We pulled into the South Middleton launch, where we took a break.

A small deer is alerted as I paddle by 

A White Heron in flight over the wetlands 

Takin' a quick break, but ready to keep on goin'

The wetland area as seen from the South Middleton boat launch

The next section is the rest of Middleton. It passes under several bridges, winds behind neighborhoods, and passes around a peninsula containing a gun range, leaving you to hope that nothing goes astray over the fences. There are lots of twist and turns in the river through Middleton.

Redwing blackbirds dominated the river morning to afternoon 

Paddling at 3mph for 33 miles 

Hey, can I get a high five?! 

A large Blue Heron takes flight in front of us 

A different Blue Heron hanged off to the side as we passed

Leaving Middleton and heading into Topsfield, the river continued to present lots of sights to see. As we paddled under the bridge to Route 1, on the right there is always runoff from a natural accumulation of water that pools off to the side. It even added to the flow, allowing us to cruise right through Topsfield. Beautiful estates and couple of pretty bridges are just a couple of things among many others to see. For our next break since Middleton, we stopped at Sally's Landing.

Sally's Landing on Ipswich River 

Beached at Sally's Landing for a break and stretch

From here, the river leaves Topsfield and enters Ipswich for the rest of the way to the ocean. The first attraction in Ipswich is the Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary and then there is Bradley Palmer State Park. Once you pass the Wenham-Beverly canal or also called the Grand Wenham Canal, you're into the sanctuary, and a flurry of birds can be heard the entire time until you come back towards Ipswich Road. This is one of the best sections of the river, and the section I recommend you paddle through if you're looking for a short paddle. (High Street to Ipswich Road)

The Wenham-Beveral Canal or the Grand Wenham Canal 

Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary 

A hawk (usually Red-tail Hawk) flies high above 

Willowdale Dam

At the Willowdale Dam and Foote Brothers Canoe, we took out to the right for the portage around the two-level dam. Shortly after putting back in, we passed a backyard field and came across four deer. I've now seen deer several times along the Ipswich River, in just about each section. Onward and ocean-bound, we came to our last portage at the Sylvania Dam in downtown Ipswich. The proper location to exit the river is directly across from the first corner of the building, in a public field by a small pond, which is called Ipswich Reservoir.

Deer on the Ipswich River

Approaching Sylvania Dam in Ipswich

Ipswich Reservoir

From here, the portage is left around the little pond, and then out to Main Street, and down County Street to the public landing, which I believe is called Street Landing. We rested the arms after the tiring portage through the bustling intersection, and at that point we were now in ocean waters! When planning any paddle beyond downtown Ipswich, its best that the tide is going out, so you have to plan this in advance. Fortunately, we only battled some wind and slightly choppy water in the bay for our last two miles, and we pulled into the beach on Little Neck having paddled the entire river in 11 hours. My dad was there waiting to give us a ride back to North Reading. It was a great day, a success, and to the guy who way back when mocked me when I said I was paddling to the ocean (attempting to), I now officially consider it done! 

Green Street Bridge, last bridge 

Paddling around Little Neck, to Little Neck Beach

(I recommend clicking Bigger Map and changing to satellite imagery)

Paddle Stats Distance: 33.5 miles Book Time: 11:02 Avg. Speed: 3.0mph/19:47 per mi.

Ipswich River: Middleton to Ipswich Bay - 8/25/12

"Have Fun With That", is what I was told about three years ago the time me, my brother, and a couple of friends were kayaking on the Ipswich River. Let's face it, the plan was to go as far as we could, but, of course, I thought we could make it to the ocean. So that's what some guy said that time when I answered where we were going, with "the ocean!". Have fun with that is what I did on Saturday, and it was the motivation for this paddle. It was total awesomeness. Back then, I knew I could do it, I just wasn't ready for it, but the way the guy said it that day, I knew I would come back and do it; I had been talking about it ever since then.

On the way home from work on Friday night, I scouted my original starting point at Ipswich River Park in North Reading. As I drove by Russell Street in Peabody, there was only a trickle and exposed rocks; the river was incredibly low from this drought. That is right after the significant dam (and falls) near the old Bostik Plant, so I was concerned immediately. As I drove Route 62 through North Reading, I couldn't see the river behind the houses (which is a marshy area, and would be torture with no water). At Ipswich River Park, it didn't look anything like I've seen it. Concerned about the water level in N. Reading, I decided to cut my plan short, which was approximately 10-12 miles shorter than I had intended. I wanted to do almost all of the 34 or so miles. The ensuing paddle would be 25.8 miles from South Middleton to THE OCEAN!

Ready to go! 

I decided to put-in at South Middleton, along Route 114. Since I cut off that distance, I didn't need to start at 6am, but I was on the river at 8:30. The weather was hazy most of the morning hours. It took over an hour for the heat to come through, but the conditions were not overly hot. The river conditions were obviously low, but thankfully it wasn't bad to start so I got going. The river from here meanders through a marshy area, making a 90-degree turn on on occasion as it makes its way further into Middleton.

Ipswich River - Middleton, MA

After I got going good, I did have to finally maneuver over a couple of beaver dams. The first one was small, and the second one was a little trickier, but I was able to remain in the boat. 

A mile or so later, I came upon the popular swimming spot at Thunder Bridge in Middleton on East Street. It was quiet, and there is always a small line of rocks right after the beach to contend with. In normal water, its a nice little dip with a boost. Other than that, this section of paddling didn't throw to many issues at me as a result of the low water. I quickly passed I-95, and continued at a good pace. The river meanders quite a bit after I-95, so in higher water, it can be slightly more confusing. With the low water, it was easier, at times, to see which way the flow was going.

"Thunder Bridge" or "Thunder Hole" - Middleton, MA 

Paddling underneath I-95 going into Topsfield

On the other side, I passed the Topsfield Fairgrounds. After smooth sailing for a while, I ran into few shallow spots again. As you float by, you pass some really nice homes. Before I knew it, I was already at the Wildlife Sanctuary.

A US Flag hangs randomly on the far side of the river

You know when your close to the Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary when you pass the Grand Wenham Canal or also known as the Salem/Beverly Canal. Don't go down there, that's not the river. There's always something doing in the sunny skies over the Ipswich River, like a cloud formation or plane exhaust lines. It seems to happen every time. I continued on, and as I paddled through here, which was pretty full, the animals were out and about. Turtles, snakes, blue jays, cardinals, blue herons, red-tail hawk and more. I slowly passed beneath the hawk as it sat on the dead tree, it then flew away across the way revealing the definitive red-tail feathers. The snake actually came towards me and past me about an arm's length out from my boat. It was definitely a surprise, and was easily over 3 1/2 feet in length.

Grand Wenham Canal on Ipswich River

A turtle sunning on the Ipswich River 

Large Northern Water Snake 

Red-tail Hawk 

A nice section of flowering lilies 

Continuing right on into Ipswich! 

At the Willdowdale Dam, I exited to the right. There is a small path on the right side next to the fish ladder. I had to take the kayak past the first dam because there is another small one. This was my first real break, other than getting out of the kayak once to pull the kayak over a downed log. I grabbed a snack and powerade. As I was about to put-in, I noticed this bold blue heron standing right next to where I was headed. He would move eventually when he heard my boat scraping against the ground since the water was extremely shallow here.

Willowdale Dam - Ipswich River 

Fish Ladder at the Willowdale Dam 

Blue heron on Ipswich River

Now past the Willowdale Dam, there was still a good ways to go in Ipswich before reaching the ocean. Onward I went, but I was definitely slowed a bit by low water, but I just wanted to get past the next big portage. Although it was not the first time I had to do this, I found my self pushing myself along sandbars with my paddles. I had to maneuver slowly over the dam of rocks you see below. Before I got to the Ipswich Dam, (formerly known as Sylvania Dam) downtown Ipswich, I passed the Ipswich River Watershed Association's dock.

Mill Road Bridge 

Ipswich River Watershed Association dock on Ipswich River 

As I approached the dam, I thought the spot to take out was going to be a little more obvious, as it had in the past. I know it was pretty early right, but the best spot I could find (after circling a few times both right and left) was a small raised landing to get out on the right, but it required me to lift my kayak over my head and a stone wall. On top of the wall was a shared driveway with a multi family and a road-front business. I hauled the kayak over my head onto the driveway and secured my gear for the lift and carry across downtown Ipswich. As I went to lift it up, this guy comes out of the house and says something like, "Hey, if my landlord was here he'd have the police down here in a second." I said, "I'm sorry, this was the safest spot I could see to get out." He said, "Well don't do it again." Are you serious?? Give me a freakin' break buddy. So, after being heckled, I picked up my kayak with gear and all, and hauled it up the street to County Street, where I found a nice put-in spot. Ahh the ocean, but I wasn't done just yet.

Ipswich Dam 

A public spot along County Street

High tide was set to be 6pm. I figured it would be around this time I'd end up on the neck, but I was a little early. I knew I wouldn't have any tide issues though other than a couple of tough spots of paddling maybe. I passed the first no wake marker, and eventually I was paddling next to huge motorboats busy going in and out. It was the afternoon, so a lot of speeding boats were coming in. I stayed to the right and out of the way as best I could while still trying to cut nice lines. I was making it. The waves from the incoming tide and boats going through the channel were splashing on deck, but that was nothing. I exited the channel, and took a wide left around the neck following the flow, somewhat, because the waves were crashing against the rocks and I didn't want to get caught up in that. I took a straight line in with the tide to the sandy beach on the left where there is a parking lot and I got out before. It took me 9hrs to paddle 25.8 miles on the Ipswich River from Middleton to the ocean. It was from the same spot we put it in that day three years ago when I said we were going to the ocean. Today, it was done, for that guy who said, "Have fun with THAT!"

No wake marker in Ipswich River 

Ipswich River Bay 

Looking back at the incoming tide and river mouth 

A dear grazes in the marsh as I wait for my ride at Little Neck

Paddle Stats:

Distance: 25.8 miles

Book Time: 9hrs 3min

Wildlife Seen: White Perch fish, Turtles, Blue jays, Cardinal, Blue Herons, Red-tail Hawk, Geese, Ducks, Frogs, Toads, Eastern Water Snake, Deer