The Kinsmans & Cannon - 06/09/16

This was a fun Thursday evening hike with Alton & Nate. The weather was looking much better a few days prior, but it takes a little more than what was there for us to alter plans.  It was strange for June with gusty winds and temperatures in the 40s at Lonesome Lake Trail head (Lafayette Place).  We packed for a chilly, potentially wet, but fast hike of Kinsmans and the Cannon. We elected to ascend the Fishin' Jimmy and hit the Kinsmans first. 

The gradual ascent on Lonesome Lake Trail 

Jogging by Lonesome Lake

We did some quick climbing up the wet rocks on the Fishin' Jimmy. We reached the summit to no views.  Moving on quickly towards South Kinsman, we encountered a patch of ice pellets. They almost looked liked broken ice cubes. Cole seemed happy to see them and stick nearby.  We took the opportunity for a quick stop and photo to enjoy the freak ice in June.  It made us talk about how we've been encountering ice for the last 7-8 months in a row now, including a winter with a storied abundance of icy trails. 

Fishin' Jimmy Trail 

No views today from North Kinsman 

Enjoying a nice break with the ice

 As we reached the summit, we saw a potential view starting to clear. As we got our phones out to capture it, it went away. We decided to wait 20 seconds to see if would come before we'd shoot back into the trees. Within time, but for only another few seconds, we had this view below from South Kinsman. On the way back, we had a few more little view opportunities before it was going to get dark. On a hike like this, when the view opens, its kind of cool to take it in if its there. This happened a couple of times, and during those times we'd grab a snack or change a layer.

South Kinsman

View from Kinsman Ridge Trail

Hiking north on Kinsman Ridge Trail

Cannon from the Cannonballs 

This loop is one my favorite late afternoon or night hikes.  I like it as a fast and physical hike...5,000 ft of gain over 11 miles.  We had fun slipping into the puddles on the trail, sliding off bog bridges, and trying to beat daylight to the summit of Cannon. We kept on going, and climbed up the steep backside of Cannon.  It was incredible to see the boulder that recently wiped out many trees next to and across the trail.  It was amazing to see such a tremendous force and reality of nature. We reached the summit of Cannon in 4hrs 25 min, which is fast. It felt like it'd been a while since I did a short fast hike, so this one was fun, and I felt good.

Nearing the Rim Trail on Cannon 

Nate and I braving the wind on the Cannon Summit deck

Highlights:

Kinsmans - 13th Round
Cannon - 14th Round

Trail Conditions:
It was extremely windy at the trail head with temperatures in the mid to upper 40s. The trail was wet from start to finish. Slippery bog bridges all along the way, and muddy puddles up on the ridge. Going up Lonesome and Fishin' Jimmy included wet, slippery rocks and flowing water, and Kinsman Ridge Trail had wet, slippery rocks and mud puddles. Only a few spills during this fun and fast hike.

Hike Stats
Trails: Lonesome Lake Trail, Fishin' Jimmy Trail, Kinsman Ridge Trail, Hi-Cannon Trail
Distance: 10.6 miles
Elevation Gain: 5,036 ft.
Actual Book Time: 5:18

Photo Album Link

The Captain - 06/03/2016

For three years, I've long desired to reach the Captain. The Captain is a remote, trail-less mountain peak on a ridge between the Hancocks and Mt. Carrigain on the edge of the Pemigewasset Wilderness.  The Captain is visible from only a limited number of vantage points, so to see this peak up close and personal is a special reward for a bit of difficult bushwhacking.

Sawyer Pond Trail at the end of Sawyer River Road 

Entering a LZ 

North Fork Trail Emergency Landing Zone

Quickly after passing the footbridge for the Sawyer Pond Trail, we took a right onto the North Fork Logging Road.  Toward the end of the logging road, we came to the North Fork Road Landing Zone. We determined this must be an emergency landing zone for a Heli evacuation. We gathered that this particular location likely serves the snowmobile trails in the area. It was a beautiful open meadow.  I figured, at least for myself at least, that this location is worth being aware of.  After that, the trail closed in to a very faint herd path, a natural skin exfoliater, which continues fairly straightly.

Eventually we arrived to a pre-existing campsite, with a really nice view of the Captain, still very much in the distance.  This was pretty much the spot where we were going to camp for the night, based on our research. I've been reading about the approaches to this peak for the last few years, along with the Google Earth images and contour lines. We set up our camp and left the bulk of our gear behind.  It was about an hour here, and then we continued forward around 12:30pm with lighter loads.

Following the bootleg path beyond our spot, we soon came upon another fire ring and camp location. This particular one we read about in another online report.  While it was closer to the Captain, it was not as tent friendly, but had a very nice rock chair.  Shortly after the camp spot, we are led to the base of the slide that is seen on the Google Earth Image below. We made our way up the loose slide.  From the slide, the view out of the valley was obstructed by the enclosing slopes, and an impressive view of the Captain was blocked by a large tree, but it was amazing, and we continued up until we reached a wall. This was when the real fun began, this is where it becomes significantly more challenging.

Looking left to the Captain from the slide

Bill ascends the slide, with the steep slope of Hancocks in the background

Here, we are forced into the trees, where we need to cross and ascend a steep contour

The going got pretty tough quickly. We had to keep our bearing toward the ridge between Captain and Carrigain so to come out in the col. This meant traveling left to right, while shading uphill on a very steep slope.  Shortly after the slide, we came to a gorge-like riverbed in the steep slope. We had no choice but to descend until we could cross it without too much risk. After a minute of hiking down, we found a ledge that we could finally throwing down our packs, and hanging on to trees with our arms to lower ourselves.

Bill about to send his pack down

Once we got down from the literal cliff (seen in the right of the picture below), we started up the gorge to gain what we just lost.  A few short minutes later, we were near the top, and shading left (north) again towards the ridge.

Deep gorge to the right of the Captain

Heading up through blowdowns

After what was the most difficult part of this bushwhack, we finally made it to flat area in the col between Captain and Carrigain. It does not get any easier here, however, as there was really no defined path. We noticed a few "herd" paths in the tall grass, but it clearly resembled animal tracks, and we passed through a couple of quick but thick spots as we neared the final steep part of the Captain ridge. There is not a whole lot of give on this part of the ascent. Going left (closer to the ledges) was obviously steeper with ledge and much more dangerous, and more to the right (Carrigain Pond side) seemed pretty darn thick. We headed straight toward the highest point, and eventually we saw a magical summit canister atop a tree in the middle of this craziness.

Nearing the summit of the Captain

The canister as we reached it. Just amazing to reach this thing in the middle of nowhere

We enjoyed about 15 minutes or so at the summit. The mosquitoes and midges were just ferocious, so while we did our summit stuff, it was a battle. We were really happy at making it here. We've talked about this hike for so long. I really enjoyed seeing the list of well known White Mountain hikers who have visited before, even going back into the 90s. Out of the whole world, not many have been here.  I fulfilled my long dream of drinking Captain atop the Captain! There was even an eye patch to pose with.  This summit, despite the lack of view, was a beautiful reward, one that was much different than anything I've done in a while. It was needed. I still have many amazing things to see and do in the White Mountains.

On the summit of the Captain!!! 

Bill does a pretty decent Captain Morgan pose 

Aye, Captain! 

Bill and I have done a few extremely tough bushwhacks in the White Mountains

We left the summit, and our plan was to follow the same route back for the most part. At the summit there was absolutely no noticeable path. Other than a few spots with a noticeable trample, there is no path once up on the mountain. We were pretty good on our way out, except facing a couple of tough obstacles.  One of those was a steep drop with a tree to hang onto and lower ourselves down steep step. The slight change in our path, however, allowed us a rare view from practically a 10 foot ledge step on the edge of the Captain. Gripping my phone very precisely, I took a photo and then a self-shot so that I would remember what it took to get that view of the valley. :)

Leaving the Captain summit through a tangled and mangled pine forest  

Living on the edge, you might say....

A view from the steep slopes on the front of the Captain

It had been a beautiful and very warm Saturday. We made remarkable time on our descent. As we approached the large gorge again, we picked up some easier terrain just before it, and avoided it. Although it is still steep, its much easier to move down.  We even missed the slide too, and ended up back to the bootleg path below it.  It was actually a very pleasant evening below, one of the easiest and most relaxed nights in the White Mountains. My brother and I enjoyed a couple beers while we looked back on another tough hike and great memory in the White Mountains.

Evening twilight campfire beneath the Captain

Highlights:
A very challenging bushwhack.
My 2nd overnight in 2016. Before recently, my last "planned" overnight was March 9, 2014.
Bill's first hike since my grid finish last November.

Trail Conditions:
The conditions were mostly dry. (There is no trail) The ground was a little damp on the way in, making our boots wet. It was warm, very buggy, and mostly sunny.

Hike Stats
Trails: None; bushwhack
Distance: 10 miles
Elevation Gain: 2,170 ft.
Actual Book Time: 23:00 (overnight) The hike to the Captain and then down to our camp was 6:40.

Photo Album Link

**Before heading out to the Captain, be sure to read up on it, do research, have a plan, and be absolutely prepared for a night or two, and for possibility of injury due to the steepness and thickness of the vegetation. We have been reading about this trip for 3 years before finally doing it. 

Presidential Traverse (Out-and-back) - 5/26/2016

The weather for this past Thursday afternoon was looking fantastic. With this planned a week in advance, I had arranged my workday for a quick early morning ride to the job sites down in Plymouth, MA, and then raced back to meet Alton at 12pm. We were at the trail head around 2pm. As we exited the car, and Cole jumped out to stretch the legs, a ranger was there and was a little harsh in his tone when he told Alton it was the law for the Cole to be on a leash. Literally like 30 seconds after getting out of the car. The law is actually ..leash or verbal command, as the sign indicates at the Mt. Clinton Road Trail head.  The approach of the ranger was a little silly, but we brushed it off. As I paid for my parking, I went back to the car for a pen, and took the opportunity to say he ought to replace the pencil when he gets a chance. (Little does this ranger guy know) Cole and us' plan was to hike a double Presi, and/or at least some fashion of an out and back Presi. Before the hike, we always plan out, or talk out our options. We have a knack for making last minute decisions, and crafting our plans on the go, but not without a lot of discussion before and during the hike. One option was after reaching Madison, we could return hitting Isolation, and hiking out via Isolation-Dry River Cutoff-Mt. Clinton Trail back to Crawford, or the other option was return via Gulfside, Westside, Crawford Path with no summits, and our third option was to descend to the west slopes (Caps, Ammo, Edmands), and hike roads back to Crawford. What was NOT an option, was getting back to the car any later than 6am, as Alton had a scheduled appointment at work, which was of high importance. With all of that in mind, we started up the trail at 2:15pm.

OMG it's Cole on a leash! ... for like 30 seconds 

Heading up the Crawford Path

Mt. Pierce

Webster-Jackson and Crawford Path junction

The hike up to the ridge was nice. Seeing what we're about to hike across is always awesome. On Mt. Pierce, a guy recognized Cole "from the internet" - never said he recognized Alton or I, just Cole. This pup is something else, I'll tell ya. Next up, we made a quick jaunt of the next section to Eisenhower. After a nice break up there, we ran off the summit on a fast approach to the Monroe Loop. I enjoy a northbound traverse when the pace is fast, as once up to the ridge, it's a nice flow over the easier terrain on the southern presis and good time can be had getting towards Washington and the halfway point. When the goal is to ultimately hike back to Crawford after reaching Madison, we had to keep the pace, like we always do.

A panorama from Mt. Eisenhower summit

Mt. Eisenhower summit cairn, looking west

Alton hikes between Eisenhower and Monroe. We hit Franklin too.

Cole is happy and ready to take on the Monroe Loop, but first....little Monroe.

Cole found a puddle but it was a bit muddy than expected.
He was half black and half white for a while.

Cole enjoys the summit a bit longer, as we leave for Lake of Clouds Hut

Lake of the Clouds, always majestic

Cole enjoys a cool-down with one heck of a setting

One of my favorite spots in the Whites to stop and take a look back.
Mt. Monroe was the spot of my 48 finish.

The climb to the top of Mt. Washington was steady as usual. It was quiet and nice and warm, so it was easy to keep going while enjoying the view.  We reached the summit in the 6 o'clock hour, no one else in sight.  It was my 27th summit of New England's highest peak. Despite hiking most of the 4,000 footers at night together last year, this was Alton and I's 1st Washington summit and Presi Traverse together, something we only realized as we were on this hike. After a quick picture, we readied for the baby jog to Mt. Clay, another stretch to make good time. With the sun lowering, we enjoyed incredible views and calm winds as we descended past the Great Gulf. There was running water along this section, and it offered a unique view with the sun glistening off the water.

The Great Gulf, between 6 and 7 pm

Cole found another puddle, another spectacular spot near Mt. Clay

Looking west on the approach to Mt. Jefferson at sunset

Cole summits Mt. Jefferson at sunset

Enjoying a comfortable evening above treeline

We cross the Jefferson snowfield at twilight with no winds

We made really good time from Jefferson to Adams. Although its not the first time being calm up here, it still had is in an awe during this section. We joined with the Israel Ridge Path and made it to the summit of Mt. Adams. We didn't stay long, and we made it down the tricky Airline Trail. The rocks are pretty big on this trail, and tough descending at night, but we kept going and made it to the hut. We dropped the packs and made it quickly up to Mt. Madison for the 10th peak, and 8th 4,000-footer on this full Presidential Traverse. From Crawford Path it was 14 miles in 8:50. This included 1:50 of stopped time enjoying the hike. We quickly descended back to the hut.

Alton and I on Mt. Adams

Mt. Madison Summit, just after 11:00pm

Despite a nice time on the way across at 8:50, it was now after 11pm, and that left us about 7-ish hours for the return trip so Alton can be home in time. With that in mind, we headed back up the Gulfside Trail towards Thunderstorm Junction discussing our options. We kept moving, traveling back to Edmands Col, and there we finalized our previous discussion that we were going to head over to Caps Ridge via Randolph Path for a minute and then the Cornice to Caps Ridge Trail.  The wind had picked up a little bit on the way over and remained consistent, which solidified this decision. We would probably not even be close if we did any other option. We entered onto the Cornice Trail, and it was fairly rocky and steep compared to its appearance on our map. With the wind going pretty good, and us being spaced out a little farther, being later in the hike, Alton misread the trail sign, continued, and we started to go beyond the right junction to access Caps Ridge. Alton ended up going all of the way up to Jefferson again. I saw Alton pass the sign, and I yelled "Oh, next one?!", but she didn't hear, and I trusted her, so we continued for some minutes. Alton was gone following cairns, I was crawling during this section, but after a few more minutes, I knew something was up, and it wasn't going to be me ....climbing any more. I checked my GPS, and was .16 away from Caps Ridge Trail, and saw that we were in fact ascending Jefferson again. I quickly rock hopped my way over in a fast straight line and began looking up. A few short minutes later we saw each others headlamps, and we descended saying what the hell just happened. I knew I should have also looked at the sign, but I didn't. The sign might even have been a little askew. Little things like this can happen when you push yourself on tough hikes, but trusting your hiking partner and remaining calm is important, no matter what happens.

The Cornice Trail at night, most of it anyways.

Darn my feet were killing going down Caps Ridge. Through the wind, I think I heard Alton say ahead of me, "I think we're almost done with the Caps".  About 20 minutes later when I caught up with her next we were still on the Caps. Felt like the most sore descent in a while for my feet, but eventually we made it to the parking lot and took a quick break. Didn't help with her messing up the route and jinxing our distance to go, but I would never get mad! From the Caps Ridge Trail head to Mt. Clinton Road Trail head is 6.5 miles via Jefferson Notch Road and Mt. Clinton Road. We chose this plan because no matter how tired we are, we knew we could take care of 6.5 miles and make it back in plenty of time to make it to work. It was a long walk without stopping, and it even started to rain Alton and Cole saw a Moose, but I didn't. We arrived back at the trail head at 5am, one hour before our latest time to leave and be on time. Another successful night hike in the books.  Despite only hiking 11 hikes since January 1st, I have done 44 4,000-footers, 236 miles, and 84,000 ft. of elevation. My average hike distance this year so far is 21.5 miles and 7,700 ft of elevation gain. Alton & Cole have joined me for 9 of those hikes. Clearly we're having fun with having fun doing long and difficult hikes. Perhaps we'll see this continue this summer...

The only sleep I got in 32 hours

Cole fast asleep, probably dreaming of his next biggest hike

Highlights:

Me and Alton's first Presi Traverse and Mt Washington summit together.

27th summit of Mt. Washington

20th summit of Madison and Eisenhower

12th Presidential Range Traverse

Trail Conditions:
All of the trails used were mostly dry. Microspikes are not needed anywhere along the traverse. There was some runoff on Gulfside coming down from Washington - it was pretty cool shining in the setting sun. Lots of puddles for dogs, Cole was well hydrated and cooled. Couple small blow downs on Caps Ridge Trail. The rocks in the northern presis were hard and sharp as usual. We had a beautiful evening with barely any wind and warm temperature except wind while descending Caps.

Hike Stats
Trails: Crawford Connector, Crawford Path, Webster Cliff Trail. Eisenhower Loop, Monroe Loop, Gulfside Trail, Clay Loop, Jefferson Loop, Israel Ridge Path, Airline Trail, Osgood Trail, Randolph Path, The Cornice, Caps Ridge Trail, Jefferson Notch Road, Mt. Clinton Road.

Distance: 27.7 miles
Elevation Gain: 9,850

Actual Book Time: 14:40

Photo Album Link

Presidential Range Traverse (out-and-back from Mt. Clinton Road)