The Tale of the Dainty Dots Blanket #3 - Pattern and a Mini-Tutorial

First of all, THANK you for the kind words about my Dainty Dots Blanket. It’s lovely to read them all! Secondly, yes, I know, it took me a while to finally post the pattern for the squares… But hey, here it is: written and as a - sliiiightly wonky ;-) - chart! And with good news too, because I found a free online pattern that is very similar to the pattern for this border.

When I started to work on this blanket I took a fair amount of time to work out a pattern for circle-turned-into-a-solid-square. I wanted the circle stay round, but in most patterns the circles becomes square-ish when turned into a solid square. That’s because you’ll most often have to work three corner stitches in one stitch of the circle, giving the circle a bit of a corner. The problem is less visible when you’re making a square with chain stitches in the corner. Okay, I hope I didn’t loose you at this point? ;-)

Anyway! I'm quite pleased with my solution. And that is: you will work only ONE stitch in the circle to make the corner of the square, the other two corner stitches are worked in the base of that first corner stitch. (Hopefully the pictures and the chart will explain.) Eureka! Here's a mini-tutorial...

So that’s my little trick. I was actually quite excited about it. :-) As I mentioned in my previous post, this particular blanket is so darn heavy the effect is a bit lessened. This has also to do with the fact that the white yarn is thicker and heavier than the blue and grey yarns used for the circles.

And now for the disclaimer... I am sure other crocheters might have come up with the same solution before me. Because once I thought of it, it seemed a pretty obvious thing to do, but I haven’t seen it before.

Pattern Dainty Dots Square

Remarks beforehand

♦ You can either start a new round by chaining 2 (as one substitute dc) or – my favourite – by making a standing double crochet. With the latter you really can’t tell afterwards where you started the round. If you google it, you’ll find that there are several great tutorials online for this technique.
♦ The pattern calls for a join at the end of each round. My preferred method is to make a seamless join using a darning needle. (Again, you’ll find great tutorials for this online.) Alternatively you can make a slipstitch in the first st of the round.
♦ BLdc is a BackLoop double crochet: a regular dc, but worked in the backloop only.
♦ I used a brandless Thai cotton for the circles and Rico Creative Cotton for the square part and border. If I would have to recommend a yarn though: I think this pattern would work wonderful in the organic cotton yarn Vinnis Nikkim. If I would make another one, it would probably be my choice because I expect it to give the blanket a wonderful drape. (I used it for the mini-tutorial.)
♦ I used a 4 mm crochet hook, but you can basically use any hooksize that matches your choice of yarn. My motifs measure appr. 15 x 15 cm (6 x 6 inch) each,

Chart
Please don't copy or share or pin the chart elsewhere, but link to this page instead - thank you for linking with love! 

Written pattern
To start
Magic circle, or, chain 4 and close with a slipstitch

Round 1
12 dc in ring, join

Round 2
2 BLdc in each dc (24 BLdc in total), join

Round 3
*1 BLdc, 2 BLdc*, repeat between * * along round (36 BLdc in total), join

Round 4
*1 BLdc, 1 BLdc, 2 BLdc*, repeat between * * along round (48 BLdc in total), join

Round 5
This is the round where the circle is worked into a square.
Change to second colour here.
You can start this round in any stitch.
*1 sc, 1 sc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 dc. Then make a corner: 1 dc, 1 dc made in the dc you’ve just made in the same round (so do not work this stitch in the previous round), 1 dc in first corner dc (so the 2nd and 3rd dc are both made in the 1st corner stitch). Then continue: 1 dc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc*, repeat between * * 3 times, join

Round 6
In this round the corners is made as follows: 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc. The treble ensures a sharp corner. If you like a more rounded corner, work a dc instead of a tr.
*1 dc in 13 consecutive stitches, in nxt st: 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc (corner made)*, repeat between * * 3 times, join

Round 7
* 1 dc in 15 consecutive stitches, in nxt st: 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc (corner made)*, repeat between * * 3 times, join.
Weave in ends.

Joining
Of course you can choose your preferred method. I joined  the motifs by single crocheting them together, right sides facing eachother, through both (front and back) loops of both squares.

Border
Okay, as I explained in my previous post I based the lacy part of the border loosely on a Japanese pattern. BUT, I’m happy to say that since then I discovered a VERY similar, free pattern on MyPicot.com. (A great source for all kinds of lovely patterns by the way.) Click here for the link. Although it’s actually for a blanket, you could fairly easily adapt the pattern as a border by just crocheting two lacy segments.

Before I crocheted the lacy segments of the border I made the solid part: five simple rounds of double crochet, with 3 dc in de corner stitch. Of course you could omit the solid part, but personally I always think it gives a clean look.

And then... Your blanket is ready!

So dear people, that’s it. I hope you like it. If you’re making a #daintydotsblanket yourself I’d LOVE to see it! Also, do comment below if something is not clear. I really try to respond asap, but life is rather hectic so I apologize in advance if it takes a while...

Many thanks for your lovely visit. Wishing you a happy day!

Granny Flower Square - The Pattern!

If you read this blog since the first year (thanks for putting up with me all that time!) you might remember this blanket, It's one of my first crocheted blankets. I finished it almost three years ago. As you can see my palette has changed a bit since then, nevertheless I still like the blanket. It has exactly that seventies vibe I was after.

Recently my eyes fell upon it and I thought it might be a good idea to write the pattern down. Mind you, only for the squares. The border is not my pattern so not mine to share and unfortunately I can't find the source anymore, I believe it was a Portuguese magazine.

The pattern

Remarks beforehand
- You can either start a new round by chaining 2 (as a substitute dc) or – and that’s definitely my recommendation! – by making a standing double crochet. With the latter you can't tell afterwards where you started the round.
- The pattern calls for a join at the end of each round. My preferred method is to make a seamless join using a blunt needle. Alternatively you can slipstitch in the first stitch of the round.
- I used a 4 mm hook and I made 285 squares in total. Each square measures 10x10 cm (appr. 4x4 inch).

To start
Magic circle or chain 5 and join with a slipstitch to create a ring

Round 1
*1 dc in ring, ch 1*, repeat between * * 11 x, join

Round 2
*2 dc in ch1-sp, ch 1*, repeat between * * 11 x, join

Round 3
*3 dc in ch1-sp, ch 1*, repeat between * * 11 x, join

Round 4
Please note: The corners are worked in trebles.
*3 dc in ch1-sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch1-sp, 3 tr in ch1-sp, ch 2, 3 tr in same space, ch 1*, repeat between * * 11 x, join. Weave in ends.

Joining the motifs
I used the join-as-you-go method for joining the motifs.

Please don't copy or share the chart elsewhere, but link to this page instead - thank you for linking with love! 

That's it!

I hope you've had a lovely week so far. Wishing you a great weekend!

Candy Scarf

Hello! Without further ado I hereby present to you the Candy Scarf. Plus the making details and pattern. Hope you like it!

Details
♦  I used three balls of MoYa yarn, one of each of the following colours: Bubblegum, Rose Quartz and Misty Rose.
♦  For the squares I used a 4.5 mm crochet hook (because it creates a nice, soft drape). But for the lacy joins I used a 3.5 mm hook to create slightly smaller chain stitches for an elegant touch. ;-)
♦  My scarf consists of 28 squares and measures 1.65 x 0.20 mtr.
♦  I blocked the individual squares pre-joining them and afterwards I blocked the entire scarf to stretch the lacy join.

And here is the chart! Please don't copy or share the chart elsewhere, but link to this page instead - thank you for linking with love! By the way: this pattern would work very well for a blanket. (Actually, I'd love to make a blanket like this some day.)

I loved working on this cute little project. And I'd love to see your pics if you make a #candyscarf yourself!

If you'd like to read more about the making of this scarf please click through to my previous post.

As always many thanks for your kind visit. Wishing you a most lovely week.
♦♦♦

Pattern Breezy Summer Bag

As promised: The pattern for the Breezy Summer Bag! I made mine with JungleVine - read more here and here. Of course it would work with other yarn too.

Remarks beforehand
 ♦ I don't give one size for the bag. You can make it as big as you like by adding chains to the begin chain or by using a more voluminous fibre.
 ♦ The chart is therefore only schematic, it doesn't give a specific number of stitches - just the general pattern.

 ♦ I used JungleVine and a 2.7 mm crochet hook.

 ♦ In principle you don't have to cut your yarn, it's a 'in-one-go-pattern' as it were. This to make you bag as strong as possible. (Of course it depends on the yarn you use if you need to use more balls.)
♦ American crochet terminology.

Pattern

Bottom of the bag
♦ To start
make a chain (the lenght of this chain will be the length of your bag).

♦ Round 1
sc in third chain of your hook, continue dc'ing in every ch st.

♦ Round 2:

turn work, ch 1 and sc in each sc of previous round.

♦ Round 3 to round [x]:
- repeat round 2 until you have the bottom of your bag has the desired size.

- don't cut yarn

- single crochet along the four sides of the bottom, with 2 sc in each corner.

- don't cut yarn

Sides of the bag
 ♦ Round 1
- ch 2 as a first dc, dc in the backloops of every sc of the four sides of the bottom (backloops only because this creates a ridge. The following rounds you crochet through both loops as per usual)
- sl st in 2nd ch of the 2 chains that form the first dc

 ♦ Round 2
- don't turn turn work
- ch 1, 1 sc in every dc of the previous round
- sl st in 1st sc of this round

♦ Round 3
- ch 2 as a first dc, dc in every sc of the previous round
- sl st in 2nd ch of the 2 chains that form the first dc

♦ Round 4 to round [x]
continue alternating round 3 and 4 until your bag has the desired size.

Handle
- single crochet on one side of the bag till your handle as the desired width.

- continue in the same fashion of the rest of the bag, alternating sc and dc for every (short) row, 

- until your handle has the desired lenght, crochet the last round also through the other side of the bag to attach the handle on that side.

Decorative edge and button hole
- single crochet along the last round of your bag (with another colour)

- sl st in first sc, 

- don't turn work, 

- do a 2nd round of sc, but make chain the middle (instead of sc's) to make a button hole, like you see on the pic below:

And here is the chart, I hope it's clear, it was a bit difficult to draw... (Please keep in mind that it's schematic and I don't give a specific number of stitches because that really depends on the size bag you'd like to make and it doesn't matter for the basic pattern.)

Okay, that's it my crafty friends... If you are making this bag I'd love to see it.
Thanks for your visit and have a lovely day!
♦♦♦

A Field of Tulips Hangers * The Pattern and a (Little) Tutorial

Are you ready for spring? I know I am! You can now invite spring to your home with the tulip hangers. Here's the pattern and a little tutorial for you.

You'll need
♦ Cotton yarn suitable for a 3 mm hook (I used Rio Cotton from Lammy Yarns, except for the white, there I used something else from my stash, but Rio would do nicely there. And having seen the lovely colours from the brand new byClaire range, I think they would be perfect for these hangers too!)
♦ Crochet hook 3 mm
♦ Hanger with a minimum width of 2 cm (0.8 inches). The length doesn't matter, you can easily adapt the pattern accordingly.
♦ Blunt needle.

Remarks beforehand
♦ American crochet terminology – sorry UK-friends!
♦This pattern calls for a v-stitch: 1 dc, ch1, 1 dc in same stitch
♦ And for a 4dc-cluster:
Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook into the ch1-space.
Yo and draw up a loop – 3 loops on hook. Yo and pull through 2 loops – 2 loops on hook
Yo and insert your hook into the same space, yo over and draw up a loop – 4 loops on hook.
Yo over and pull through 2 loops – 3 loops on hook.
yo and insert your hook into the same space. Yo and draw up a loop – 5 loops on hook.
Yo and pull through 2 loops – 4 loops on hook.
Yo and pull through all 4 loops on your hook.
♦ You'll be making an identical front and back which are sewed together.
♦ For a 3d effect you could substitute the 4dc-cluster with a popcorn stitch.

Mmm, I realise that my symbol for a 4dc-cluster resembles that of a popcorn. Meant here is cluster stitch, although a popcorn would be a nice alternative. See above under Remarks beforehand...

Step 1, in white

♦ When making a slip stitch to start your work, leave an extra long tail. (This ensures that you are flexible in adjusting the length of your work if it turns out too short later on. More about this under Step 2.)

♦ Crochet a chain that's at least 5 cm (1.5 inches) longer than your hanger. 

♦ Sc in 2nd sc from your hook, single across the chain. Measure every now and then against the lenght of your hanger. If you think it's long enough, do not cut yarn yet.

Step 2, in green

♦ Do not turn your work.

♦ Attach green yarn in the first sc. 

♦ Chain 2, skip 1 sc

♦ * v-stitch, skip 2 sc* repeat until you nearly reach the end of the row.
♦ Measure if your work is long enough to cover the length of the hanger. If necessary you can pick up the white yarn again and make a few extra single crochets in your begin chain. You could even add a few chains to your begin chain (if necessary) because you left an extra long tail right in the beginning. How nifty. ;-)
♦ If your begin chain and/or your round 1 (the single crochets) are too long, you can easily unravel the redundant stitches from both. This is the reason you did not turn your work at the beginning of step 2.
♦ Okay, is your work the right length? Then, after the last v-stitch: skip 1 st, 1 dc, cut green and white yarn.

Step 3, in colour of your choice

♦ Don't turn work 

♦ Chain 3 in first dc of previous round

♦ *4dc-cluster in the ch1-sp of previous round, chain 2* 

♦ repeat across this round

♦ Than ch1, 1 dc in last dc of previous round
♦ Cut yarn.

Step 4, in white
♦ Don't turn work
♦ 1sc in 2ch of 3chains of previous round, 1 sc in ch1-space
♦ * 1sc in top of cluster, 2 sc in ch2-space*

♦ repeat 

♦ 1 sc in the last ch1-space, 1 sc in dc

Step 5 (in white)
♦ 1 turning chain

♦ Turn your work.
♦ Sc in every st, till end of round
♦ Now measure if your work is wide enough. If not, add an extra round of single crochet. You can decide whether you'd like this extra row here, or at the bottom of your work. (My hangers are 2 cm (about 0.8 inches) wide, and I didn't need an extra row of sc.)
♦ Weave in ends.

Step 6
Make an identical back side, repeating step 1 to 5.

Step 7
Hold the two pieces together, wrong sides facing eachother. Use your blunt needle and the white yarn to whipstitch front and back together (only stitching though the outer loops). Start on the side, then whipstitch about half of the lenght, slip the hanger in, stitch past the hook of the hanger, continue until done! Weave in the very last ends and let your Tulips Fields hanger invite spring in!

One more thing...
All this information might make this seem like a really complicated pattern – which of course it is not. I just wanted to give some tips on how to easily adjust the pattern to any lenght hanger. Of course, if you're making more hangers you can just count the stitches of your first hanger and duplicate that number for your other hangers – assuming they have the same size. ;-)

I hope you will enjoy this little project.
As always I'm delighted with your visit. Thanks!
♦♦♦

Smitten. The pattern.

Wow, I was blown away by your kind comments on the Smitten Blanket. Many thanks!

As promised I'd come back here soon with the pattern. Well, tadaah, it's here now - written and as a chart! Regarding the latter: *phew* it was quite a challenge to draw one that's not veeery wonky. ;-) (BTW if you have a suggestion for good software to create crochet charts, I'd love to hear about it!)

Please note that to the best of my knowledge this is a very old, vintage pattern. I re-created it from a blanket I fell in love with. However, if a original pattern is somewhere to be found, please let me know and I will of course give credit where it's due! Kudo's to the original designer of this lovely pattern.

Before you start crocheting...
♦ I made every popcorn stitch (abbreviated: pc) in this blanket with 6dc's. More common is a popcorn with 5 dc's. Using 6 dc really makes your popcorn pop, however if you're not a experienced crocheter of tend to make loose stitches I would advice to make a 5-dc pc, because otherwise the center of your square could get too heavy and could cause the last rounds to ruffle. And a 5-dc-popcorn is just as lovely. (And eats less yarn!)
♦ If you have not worked a popcorn stitch before I can recommend Youtube for some excellent tutorials.
♦ I used a 5.5 mm crochet hook. This resulted in a blocked square of 34 x 34 cm.
♦ One square eats (very) roughly about 120 mtr yarn.
♦ Please note that in round 8 you do not want to make a dc on top of the popcorn from round 7. You'll need a little gap there - it is like the top of a little gap-staircase started in round 5, if you know what I mean ;-).
♦ Instructions between * * are repeated as many times as the patterns calls for.
♦ If you're using the chart as reference: I did not mark the first stitch of a round specifically as such.

PLEASE do NOT share this pattern or chart elsewhere (like blog, facebook or instagram, snapchat, youtube, ravelry... et cetera!) but link to this page instead. And -  obviously - it's not allowed to sell it on etsy etc. Thanks for your understanding. 
























To start

chain 6, close in first chain to form a ring. Alternatively, make a magic circle.

Round 1
16 dc in ring.
(Your first dc is either made from 2 chains, or, preferably, by using a standing dc)

Round 2
*1dc, ch2*
repeat 15x (16 in total)

Round 3
*make 1pc in a ch2-space, ch3, 1 pc in next space, ch3*
repeat all the way round (16 pc's in total)
sl st in first pc of this round

Round 4
sl st in next ch3-space,
*1pc, ch3, 1pc, ch3, 1 pc, ch3, 1 pc, ch10*
repeat 3x (4 in total)
sl st in first pc of this round

Round 5
sl st in next ch3-space,
*1pc, ch3, 1pc, ch3, 1pc, ch2, [6dc + ch3 + 6dc + ch2 in ch10-space to make a corner]*

repeat 3x (4 in total)
sl st in first pc of this round

Round 6
sl st in next ch3-space,
*1pc, ch3, 1pc, ch2, 2dc in ch2-space, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc's,[ 2dc in ch3-space + ch3 + 2 dc in same space], 1dc in each of the next 6dc's, 2dc in ch2-space, ch2*
repeat 3x (4 in total)
sl st in first pc of this round

Round 7
sl st in next ch3-space
*1pc, ch2, 2dc in ch2-space, 1 dc in each of the next 10dc's, [2dc in ch3-space + ch3 + 2 dc in same space], 1dc in each of the next 10dc's, 2dc in ch2-space, ch2*
repeat 3x (4 in total)
sl st in first pc of this round

Round 8
sl st in next ch2-space
*2 dc in this ch2-space, 1 dc in each of the next 14 dc's, [2 dc's in ch3-space + ch3 + 2dc in same space], 1 dc in each of the next 14 dc's, 2dc in ch2-space*
repeat 3x (4 in total)
Close this round with a slip stitch of by using a blunt needle.
Please note: don't make a dc in the pc of the previous round: you want a little gap there for the consistency of the pattern. (See remarks under Before you start crocheting...)

Round 9
Make a standing dc (alternatively: chain 2) in any dc of the previous round, 1 dc in each dc of the previous round. In the corners: 2dc in ch3-space, ch3, 2 dc in same space. Continue with 1 dc in each dc of the previous round. All the way round. Close the round.

Round 10
Repeat round 9.
Weave in ends!

Joining the squares
Have you made enough squares for your blanket? Congratulations! Now you can start joining them and watch the pattern fully emerge...
For my sample blanket I slipstitched the squares together. Hold the squares together (front sides facing eachother) and slipstitch through the outer loops. Easy peasy! After that, I gave my sample blanket a simple edging of two rounds of dc.

Wow - that was it, I guess. Your blanket is ready!

Please leave a comment if you detect a mistake or if something is not clear and I will do my best to help. I do hope you have as much fun with this pattern as I had. Oh, and if you are making this blanket, I'd loooove to see the result!

Thanks for your kind visit. Much appreciated!
Happy crocheting and have a lovely weekend.
♦♦♦

Liked this? My book Mandalas to Crochet is now available on Amazon! :-)

American edition (with American crochet terminology and published by St. Martin's Griffin):



English edition (with UK crochet terminology and published by Search Press):

Daisies in the Field Scarf *with pattern*

I have a confession to make. About a new love. Yes. I'm in love with my flower loom. It yields such lovely retro-esque results. And what's more, it combines very smoothly with my other love: The crochet hook. Match made in heaven.

I hope you feel the same way, because I have quite a few flower loom patterns lined up to share with you over the next months. ;-) I thought I'd start with this simple scarf. My Daisies in the Field Scarf! (Initially I wanted to call it Daisies in the Snow, but I figured that wouldn't make sense if I'd made a second one in another colour... ;-) Anyway!)

If you'd like to give it a try, here's what you'll need:
- flower loom with two diametres: of 9 cm and 5 cm / appr. 3.3 inch and 1.3 inch). I used Clover's Hana Ami flower loom
- 3 mm crochet hook
- fingering weight yarn,
- blunt needle.



Making the flowers
Of course you can make as many as you would like for your scarf. I made 45 flowers (three rows of 15 flowers)

- Make your first flower by wrapping the white (or any colour) yarn three times around twelve pins of the biggest loom. Cut the yarn, leave the flower on the loom.
- Make a smaller flower on top of the first one with the blue (or any colour) yarn, using the smallest loom. Wrap this yarn only once round every pin. Cut the yarn.
- Now use the blunt needle and the white yarn (about 15 cm / 5.3 inch) to secure the petals. Put the needle through the centre of the flower (from the back to the front) and then down between two petals, put it up again through the centre and put down between two other petals, continue like this until you've secured every petal. This will create a little white star in the middle of your flower. If you like, you can repeat this process to have a more prominent star shape in the middle.

- Leave the flower on the loom. Secure the ends of the blue and white yarn by pulling them through the centre of your flower to the backside with the needle.
- Now gently pull the flower off the loom.
- Personally I think this the best moment to crochet the square around the flower (rather then waiting till you've made all the flowers), because the petals will still be in shape and not tangled.

Creating a square
- Attach white yarn to any big (white) petal by making a slip stitch. (Remember, you've wrapped the white yarn thrice around every pin, which means that one big petal consists of three loops.)
- chain 4, slip stitch in the next petal, chain 4, sl st in the next petal. Continue around, then slip stitch in the first slip stitch.
- slip stitch in the ch4-space,
- make a standing dc or ch2 (this will count a as your first dc), 3dc in the same space, 1 dc in the sl st of the previous round, 4dc in next ch4-space, 1dc in sl st, 4dc in next ch4-space, ch2, 4dc in the same space (you've now made your first corner).
- continue like this until you've completed your square.
- close the round by a sl st in the first dc of the round of by using your darning needle for a seamless join.

Finish
- Weave in all ends.
- Block the squares. (I'd definitely recommend blocking because it will enhance the contrast between the square and the more fluffy flower.)

Joining the squares
Naturally you can use your preferred way of joining. I sewed the squared together by whipstitching through the front and back loops of the squares (front sides held together). I know some detest the idea of sewing squares together but I find it a quite meditative occupation ;-) plus I think it gives a rather neat finish. But any joining method will do just fine!

If I would have had more of the white yarn (which I had not - planning is my middle name) I would have crocheted a small edge using the crab stitch (reverse single crochet).

I will definitely make a second Daisies in the Field Scarf, using other (read: nicer + more) yarn. I think this pattern would work very well using a gold or silver coloured yarn for the inner (small) petals for a more festive look. And I'd love to make a retro style blanket with this pattern one day...

Okay! Please don't hesitate to leave a comment if you have a question about this pattern.

Also, I'd love to hear if you have worked with a flower loom, what your experiences are or if you are planning to use it some day. Thanks!

Last but not least: Thanks for participating in the little giveaway from my previous post. Frances is the lucky one to receive the crochet magazine. Could you please send your address to haafner at hotmail dot com? Thanks! There is another giveway coming up within a couple of weeks, so stay tuned. ;-) Meanwhile I'll be working on the pattern for the pink popcorn blanket from that same post...

As always it was really lovely to have you here. I wish you a most pleasant week!

-------------------------------

Now available on Amazon: My book Mandalas to Crochet!

American edition (with US crochet terminology and published by St. Martin's Griffin):

English edition (with UK crochet terminology and published by Search Press):

Pattern Fifties Cowl * now ready!

Many thanks again for your kind comments on my Fifties Cowl. I have been wearing it a lot recently and I really like it: it's comfortable, stylish – to my modest opinion at least ;-) – and can be worn in multiple ways.

I promised to write down the pattern and here it is. I also drew two charts that – hopefully – will help too.

I really wanted to have it ready before christmas – for those who like to crochet their way through these days. Not unlike me. ;-)

What do you need?
– yarn: Scheepjes StoneWashed XL, colours MoneStone and Amazonite (two balls of each, but I tend to crochet fairly tightly, so it might be safer to buy three of each)
- crochet hook 6 mm (this stitch produces a fairly thick fabric, so I would not advise a smaller size hook)
– buttons
– scissor and darning needle.

Pattern

To start
Chain 120 (or any multiple of 2)
Mine has a base of 120 chains, this give a fairly snug fit if you wrap it twice, like in the photo above. If you'd like more drape, or are not sure it'll fit, I advise to start with a longer chain. 

Round 1

ch1, skip the first stitch *1 sc, ch1, skip 1 stitch*
repeat from * till * till end of round

Round 2
ch1, *1sc in the first st of the last round, ch1, skip 1 sc*
repeat from * till * till end of round. End the round with a sc

Round 3 till 27
Repeat round 2
Fasten off and weave in ends.

The basic is now ready! The only thing you need to do is to add simple borders and buttons.

Borders
I didn't make a border lengthwise, only in the width. Side A with the button holes, side B with the buttons.

Border A (with button holes): this is a basic row of single crochet, interrupted by short chains to make the button holes. Where exactly you want to make the button holes depends of course on the size of your buttons and the number of buttons you use.

For my cowl I used the following pattern:
5 sc along the side, ch3, skip 2 stitches, 6sc, ch3, skip 2 st, 6 sc, ch3, skip 2 stitches, 5sc. Fasten off.

Border B (with buttons): this is a basic row of 28 single crochet. Fasten off and sew the buttons in place. I advise to place them not too close to the border; this way the cowl will close neatly, without any gaps.

Okay, that's all my crafty friends! Let me know if you have any questions.
I do hope you will enjoy this pattern and cowl as much as I do.

May you have some lovely, animal friendly, crafty and stress free days ahead of you!♦♦♦ Many, many thanks for your visit! ♦♦♦

New Yarn and a Sample

Hello crafty friends,
Hopefully you've had a lovely weekend.

Thanks for the kind comments on my last post. In case you were one of the admirers of that mesh bag: Alas! I did not make it myself... I wish! I bought it in Laos, and in case you'd like more information about the materials, and how and by whom it's produced, you can find the website here: Nature Bag.

I thought I'd share this sample with you. Made with this cotton yarn: Limited by Wolcafé which is made in The Netherlands; maybe you have seen it popping up on other Dutch crochet blogs. I just couldn't resist it when I *accidently* came across it. In a yarn shop. ;-)

Originally my idea was to make one big shawl, but I might make a small vest instead. One ball should be enough since it's almost one kilometre of yarn... Either way, I think I'll leave it lying around for a while until real inspiration hits. ;-)

In case you're interested in the pattern for this sample, here's my quick attempt to draw a chart. (The picture below doesn't do justice to the subtile grey of this yarn.)

This evening I hope to finish a few more squares of my polkadot blanket. Did you do manage to do any crocheting last weekend?

♦♦♦ Have a lovely week! ♦♦♦