Painting Service

Den of Imagination offers a variety of services including single display miniature pieces as well as an army painting service.

Blood Angels

GIGANTIC BLOOD ANGELS ARMY WITH EPIC FREEHANDS!

Hierophant showcase!

From our painting service - our level 6 (Legendary) Bio Titan! Paulina did wonderful job...

THE TEMPLE

Now this is something special fresh and new. Fist your eye on The Walking Temple.

RED GLOW NECRONS

Make it glow. oh yeah take a look at this eye candy.

Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

HOW TO PAINT RUINED TEMPLE BASES - PAINTING TUTORIAL

From our painting service - new tutorial, how to paint ruined temple bases.

If you would like to buy them visit our webstore: http://bit.ly/1CJP3GS





Always do whatever's next.
Michal



There is only one way to keep up with our projects - subscribe to our @Youtube.

Thursday, October 16, 2014

HOW TO PAINT SKULL - FREEHAND TUTORIAL

We've finally managed to prepare a tutorial for you guys. Hopefully we will make more of those.

Enjoy! Wojtek is painting his Nurgle army and can prepare more tutorial on it. 



Always do whatever's next.
Michael

There is only one way to keep up with our projects - subscribe to our @Youtube.

Monday, February 10, 2014

Tutorial: Raven freehand

Hi guys! I thought I'd show you how to paint raven guard shoulder freehand in a easy way. You can use this method when painting the whole squad/army (as I did ). The important part here is , in the beginning steps, not to paint the whole picture on each marine but to separate each step and paint it onto the whole group before moving to another step. This way you can compare positioning of each part and make all the freehands look similar, if not the same.
Also remember that layers of paint you'll apply have to be thin so it won't disturb the smoothness of the shoulder pad.


step 1. First you have to imagine the raven on the shoulder pad and think how to position it. It's important to leave some space above and beneath the logo. The picture shows gray imaginary arch which sets the top edge of the wings. Using black paint make four symetrical dots determining the angle, lenght and edges of the top of the wings line. Paint vertical line through the middle of the shoulderpad, ending where the tail's tip should be and mark the level of bird's waist. Paint the arch between two highest dots.
 
 step 2. Connect the lines and paint the bottom arch marking the line where wing feathers start to separate and fillitwith black.
step 3. Add the shape of bird's trapezoid 'torso'. Paint leg lines a little thicker so you can cut the final shape out of it later, legs should go as the step 3 gray shape but lower. Add the shape of tail and fill it with paint as well as torso.
step 4. Paint two separate lines on each side of bird, one on inside longer and parallel to leg lines, third line going a little up.

step 5. Paint feather lines starting from the outer side. The middle line of each wing  here starts from the end point of longer line from step 4. Keep the lines  somehow parralel to each other leaving even spaces in between.

step 6. Add the head. Now we get a bit closer to the final look.

step 7.  Add the nib. If the line gets too thick, you can fix that later. Now time for white paint. The orange shape shows how and where your should cover the freehand with white. Paint straight white lines making the feathers tips even and cut the raven with one line connecting tail and outer feather of wings.
step 8. More white corrections- shaping the legs, tail and head.

step 9. Add an eye and here we have the final form - looks nice, clean and graphic. Add some more black if cutting with white went too far :P

I hope you'll find it helpful :) In this tutorial I wanted to show how I separate each steps but if you feel like it, you can mix the sequence of steps a little - for example split the process into more easy steps like outline of shapes first and filling it with color later.


Good luck and have fun!
Paulina

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

TUTORIAL: How to paint desert sand bases


Our first video tutorial. We'll make more of those in the upcoming months. Let us know what do you think about it and what would you like us to do next time.


Also if you haven't enter our Big Giveaway yet check the video below. Please share it and spread out the word!


You can do anything!
Bania

P.s. If you don't want to miss anything follow us on Facebook.

Sunday, May 26, 2013

How to paint - Imperial Guard infantry tutorial

Time for more flashbacks from Minions. Today we would like to show you a tutorial by Kosa.
It is a simple way of painting IG infantry using the airbrush. I think that even in the 40th millennium soldiers have not paraded in colorful uniforms, and therefore my army is painted in muted colors - browns and greens.

1. The first thing we do is cut out figures of the frames and clean them. Then we assemble them paying attention to give a different look to each soldier. We put our prime colour Camo Green using airbrush. I decided that my soldiers will wear forest camouflage uniforms, so on the green prime we put randomly brown spots (here Snakebite Leather).

2. After drying, we change the paint's colour to Catachan Green and again we put random spots of dark green.

3. The minis seem to be too uniform now, so we add more contrast by painting the weapons with dark green (Catachan Green) and other details with the colors that could be an opposition to large amount of bright colours. We paint belts and equipement's suspenders with Scorched Brown, holsters and amunition pouches with Bestial Brown.

4. We paint the soldiers' skin with Elf Flesh taking care not to paint over the already painted uniforms. We choose Goblin Green for the grenades and Scorched Brown for the shoes. We finish the metal parts (belt buckles, grenades' pins, weapons parts and bayonets) with Boltgun Metal. It is important to carefully paint the Empire signs and imperial eagles with Skull White.

5. A very important step is to put washes - we cover the skin of guardsmen with Ogryn Flesh while the rest of the mini (avoiding precisely the skin) with Badab Black.

6. Choosing the method of finishing the bases is a question of a personal taste. I choose the tone which directly matches the painted soldiers. Like usual, I used glue, sand and electrostatic autumn grass.

You can do anything!
Bania

P.s. If you don't want to miss anything please follow us on Facebook.

Monday, April 29, 2013

How to sculpt Nurgle Face Tutorial

     Hey guys! According to public demand I prepared a tutorial for making Chaos Space Marine Nurgle Daemon Faces ^^. Oki let's begin.

     For this sculpting piece I used:
-Clay Shapers
-Sculpting Knifes
-Green Stuff
-Super Glue
-Hand Creme


Step 1. To save time I used a Chaos Space Marine head for the base of my green stuff conversion. I chose the raptors horned head because it had horns already so one part was already done for the Nurgle part.

Step 2. I cut off one horn, the whole face and the chin. That is made so the head won't be too big after adding greenstuff.
Step 3. I prepared some greenstuff. Not too much. With a tiny drop of super glue I attached the putty to the scraped part of the head.

Step 4. With a clay shaper and some cream I shaped the rough shape of the head. For Daemon of Nurgle the upper section is smaller the in human heads because they have one eye. I made the temple section nice and flat. The front part should be a bit convex.

Step 5. With the sculpting knife and again some cream I started sculpting the eye. With a crescent move from the bottom the eyelid was made.

Step 6. Using the same technique I did the eye and the under eyelid. The first line was made inside the upper lid and the second one outside of it.
Step 7. I pushed the clay upward to form cheeks and line the jaw.

Step 8. Now I begin to make the teeth. With the sculpting knife I have cut the mouth four times lining the mouth and making three teeth. For now the upper teeth and the bottom ones were fused together.
Step 9. With the knife I separated the upper and lower teeth by pushing the clay inside shaping the upper teeth. I also pushed the sides of the mouth a bit inside. At this point I also started working on the lower jaw.

Step 10. Still with the sculpting knife I gave shape to the lower teeth and pushed the clay a bit away from the teeth to form lips.

Step 11. It ain't Nurgle without some rotting skin. At the hornless side I made some lesions and exposed skull bone. For more details on rotting skin checkout my older tutorial on that.

Step 12. Cosmetics. With two delicate crescent cuts I formed the wrinkles above the eye to give some detail to the forehead. Also I pushed the cheeks a bit down with a ball end of the sculpting knife. 

     The finished result looks like this. If you want to see some more Nurgle faces, check out this link. Sculpting nurgle parts is quite enjoyable and very forgiving. I really recommend it if you are interested in starting to sculpt something of your own.


     If you enjoyed this tutorial please share it with your friends and check out the studio's Facebook page.

Feed your Imagination,
Brovatar.

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Painting Tau Sun Shark Tutorial part-2

    Time for the second part of the Tau Sun Shark Tutorial. Today we will be discussing the detail finish after the painted camouflage. Boys let's get to it.

      After we have the camo done its time for details. I started this by painting the exhausts, pipes, rockets, guns etc. with Abaddon Black.

    When all that needed to be black was painted, it was time for some balance in the world. So I added some white. The parts painted with white were the drone holders on the wings.

     At this step it was time to do some contouring and lining. I washed all the grooves with Agrax Earth Shade. Also by using Russ Grey I lined all the black parts.

     I finished the model with lining the bright parts with Ushabi Bone and the black parts Space Wolves Grey. After that I painted the lenses red and the model was done.


      I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you liked this one, be sure to join our Facebook and get notified about our new articles.

     You can buy this model on ebay.

Feed your Imagination,
Brovatar.

Friday, April 19, 2013

Painting Tau Sun Shark Tutorial part-1

    Yesterday I have showed you the Sun Shark Bomber. Today I would like to show you how I went about painting this little aircraft.

     The first step was to paint the model with Skull white primer.
I followed that with a flat coat of the old Citadel range Tausept Ochre, airbrushed all over the model.
    The second step was to prepare the stencils. I took a sheet of plasticard and cut irregular shapes to do the camo. The plasticard was 1 mm thick. The thiner plasticard you have the better, because you will need to place it flat on curved surfaces of the plane.

     I took out the airbrush and off we went.

      The first set of shapes was made with Vallejo air range Orange. At this step I tried to cover more then 40% of the planes surface.




      The second set of shapes was painted on using Vallejo Air Sand Yellow. At this step the important thing is too cut the yellow surface as much as possible so that it will appear more like shapes and not like the planes actual colour.









     If you like this tutorial and don't want to miss the next part follow Den of Imagination on Facebook, it's free ^^.

Feed your Imagination,
Brovatar.

Thursday, February 28, 2013

Bike weathering

     Hello fellows, wargamers, hobbyists, and miniature enthusiasts. As requested by MR.Lee I have prepared a tutorial for you on how to make your bike dirty with pigments. For this effect I used Vallejo Pigments: Brown Iron Oxide and Light Yellow Ochre.

   
Step 1. I have began by putting the Brown Pigment into a container and mixind it with water to achieve almost fluid-like consistency.


     Step 2. I applied the watered-down Brown Iron Oxide pigment on the bike's wheel. Try to apply it on the highest parts and dirty up the wheel's plating a bit as well it will look more natural.
      Step 3. I repeated the same thing from step 1 with the Yellow pigment but this time I added less water. I wanted it to be more chunky then the brown pigment. I applied the pigment into the wheels' recesses and all the gaps. Don't worry if it gets too clumpy and starts to cover details we will clean that up in a moment.
     Step 4. Take a moist cotton pad or a paper towel and start cleaning up the pigment from the section of the wheel that touches the ground the most. That is done because any dirt and mud won't stick for too long on this part.
     Step 5. Leave the pigment to dry.
     Step 6. If you are satisfied with the result, leave the bike over night to dry before sealing the pigment but if you think it's still too dirty you can come back with a paper towel and repeat step 4.

I would recommend using Vallejo pigment fixer but with so much pigment any varnish in a spray can does the trick.

This is the end result...


Hope you like this simple tutorial. If you have any questions, leave them in the comment section below.

I would also like to invite you to the Den's Facebook page. It's easier to receive new updates on new tutorials and painted miniatures.

Feed your Imagination,
Brovatar.