Japanese Single Pleat Skirt

Ta-da, here she is, my first skirt from a Japanese pattern book. An hour or two after cutting out my fabric, I had a lovely, elegant, single pleat skirt. I simply followed the instructions for the pleating as planned (well looked at the diagram, it was that clear) then put in the zip and waistband by using the same method plus a bit of common sense. 

Front pleat in more detail

I didn’t line the skirt in the end, as the fabric is a thick linen blend, so from a transparency point of view it should be OK. I was also worried I wouldn’t be able to co-ordinate the lining pleat with the main fabric pleat. 

A bit wonky, but a big improvement on the zigzag

I used my overlocking foot with an overlocking stitch (crucial point here) to create this effect on the seams.  Thank you very much Gertie for shining a light on that one. 

I’m so pleased I went for what was probably one of the simplest makes in the book (and you can’t get much more straight forward than an A-line skirt).  

Here's the back pleat

It came together so easily and has definitely given me the confidence to try another pattern. I suspect a large part of the success of the skirt was the simplicity and elegance of the cut. It looks pretty unprepossessing when you see the pattern pieces laid out, but when sewn together the garments miraculously become very flattering.  Simple Chic is a very accurate title for the book. 

There were a few comments on my last post asking about the patterns and pattern pieces.  Just to clarify, Simple Chic contains 21 patterns, comprising one pair of trousers, three blouses, 12 dresses, three skirts, one coat and one suit.  There are two giant pattern sheets with all the pieces for each pattern printed on.  Japanese pattern books cost between £16 and £20 if bought in the UK (Simple Chic is £18), so that’s 21 patterns for £18.  When you think a Collette Pattern is around £12 in the UK (and don’t get me wrong, in my opinion well worth every penny), these pattern books are amazing value for money. 

Pondering the tricky decision

Now, the tricky decision is, which pattern to sew next?...

Finished Crepe dress

I was trying to be a good student and wait patiently for the next Crepe sewalong post, but patience is not one of my virtues and posts seem to be a bit thin on the ground at the moment!  I appreciate there’s been a Christmas holiday break and I’m sure Gertie is super busy, but the pace is just way too slow for me (it started on 6^th December and we haven’t even started sewing yet!)

So I fell off the wagon and actually started sewing the dress together and I’m glad I did.  I’ve been itching to sew for weeks, so it was good to get back into it.  And here’s the result - my lovely Crepe dress….

Behold - my lovely Crepe dress

I’m so pleased with the finished dress, it’s got a vintage-y look but it’s comfortable enough to wear as a day dress AND it’s got pockets!  

Pockets - hoorah!

It’s a very girly dress, you do feel like you should be skipping through a meadow with a basket of flowers whilst wearing it.  Or trying out for a Timotei ad.  Nice and old fashioned.

Which brings me on to the fabric, which has an old-fashioned look I really like. I’m glad I went along with Gertie’s recommendation to use a lightweight cotton with more drape in it rather than a stiffer, quilting cotton.  I used a cotton lawn I picked up on eBay, with a red contrast sash.  I also underlined the dress, which was another first for me.  I used very thin grey/blue cotton for underlining. Cotton law is a sheer fabric, and underlining gave the bodice and skirt a bit of structure and neatly solved the whole potential “backlit Lady Diana wearing sheer skirt” horror.  Gertie’s method of underlining was a tad laborious though.  It involved hand basting each piece to the underlining fabric before cutting it out.  

Basting underling to the pattern pieces - like watching paint dry

I dutifully did this for the bodice pieces but then realised there were SIX mid-length skirt pieces still to do.  I wanted to do each stage by the book, but this was way too much a labour of love – I cut the pieces out then basted them, which still took hours, but at least I wasn’t flailing about with metres of fabric trying to hand sew whilst retaining a straight grain line.   I don’t think the dress suffered either.

So, what did I make of the pattern?  Well, I’ve used Collette Patterns twice before (Sencha blouse and Beignet skirt) and they were both a dream to work from: simple, clear instructions, nice detailing and a good fit.  The Crepe instructions were as clear and explanatory as usual, perfect for a beginner, which is the level the pattern was aimed at.  The only negative thing about the pattern was the fit, which was a disaster.  Collette Patterns are made with the curvier figure in mind, which is great, as that’s what I’ve got. But the bodice was way too roomy and wide – I had a lot of fitting issues (see here for more details if you’re interested) and this was when Gertie’s detailed fitting tutorials came into their own.   I learnt how to move darts, how to shape a dart for a more flattering fit under the bust and how to do a small bust adjustment. I think I just about ended up with a fit I liked in the end. 

The front view….

... and the back view - a good fit in the end

Sewing the dress together was easy peasy, all very straight forward. I also used my new tailor’s ham for the first time and now can’t live without it.  I’d really recommend you get one, especially for pressing those pesky shaped darts and shoulders into shape.  There was only one blunder…  Gertie advised us to stay the neckline with silk organza to avoid it stretching.  I bought what I thought was silk organza and stayed the neckline (another laborious process), so far so good.  But when it came to adding the facing and understitching it to lay flat, nothing was happening.  The neckline just kept jutting out and was really bulky.  A conversation with one of my new blogging friends – Danielle - who I met yesterday IN REAL LIFE (more on that in the next post!) confirmed that what I thought was silk organza was actually polyester organza (duh).  And polyester organza’s purpose in life is to stick out. Ho di hum.  I very calmly sat down last night and carefully cut out every last piece of the polyester imposter out of my dress.  And the result?  A neckline that behaves itself (yes!).  Thank you Danielle!

I am pleased with the dress, even if I don't look it in the photo!

The final touch I added, which was recommended in the pattern, was to encase the waist seams in bias binding for a neater finish. Because the fabric is so thin it does tend to look a big straggly at the edges so this was a good finishing touch.  Usually I don’t like to spend too much time looking at the inside of the clothes I make – the zig-zagged seams always look a bit scruffy for my liking.  But in this case it gave me a little rush of pleasure to look upon my dress (inside and out) and notice just how substantial and finished it looked.  One sewalong project completed, three more to go…

Crepe muslin trials and tribulations

I've been working on my first ever muslin for the Crepe Sewalong, and, as mentioned in my last post, it's become something of a trauma.  My first stumbling block was the sizing of the pattern. It was WAY off, which was disappointing, as the last Collette pattern I used was a perfect fit - I barely had to make any adjustments.  But that was a skirt and my bottom half is a standard size, the problem is with my top half which isn't quite so standard.  Collette patterns are cut for those with a reasonable sized bust which is good as that's what I have.  However, I have a very narrow back so my measurements aren't standard (32E if you must know).  I came up against this same problem when adjusting my new dressform (see last post and yes, I know it's supposed to be a Christmas present but this muslin has become something of an emergency!)  The back section was as tightly closed as I could get it, whilst the front section looked like an autopsy victim - wide open and gaping right down the front.  I still had to put a bra on it and stuff it to get the exact measurements.  But it now exactly mimics my measurements which I'm delighted about, and which was the whole point of buying it after all.  

Anyway, back to the muslin, because of my bust/back anomaly, the first muslin I cut out was really baggy and looked dreadful.  In fact it was so ridiculously baggy I re-cut it to the next size down.  

Ridiculously baggy muslin

Still no good though, so I went back to Gertie's blog for advice.  I basically then did everything she advised, as the fitting issues she was having were exactly the same as mine:

The back had too much bulk, even pulled across as a wrap, so tucks were needed on each side.

The shoulders also needed taking in, along with the side seams.  However, it was at the front where the most work was needed.  Look how much excess fabric there is.

Another horizontal tuck right across the front was called for.  I also took some small tucks out at the sides of the neckline so it didn't gape so much.

Much improved but still not too flattering

This was WAY better but it was still baggy under the bust. I get this a lot - there's basically a shelf where the bust is, and then unless it's fitted well, the fabric falls straight down to several inches in front of my stomach, making me look pregnant (which I'm not). I read a bit more of Gertie's blog and she started talking about reshaping a dart for a more flattering bustline. YES, that's what I'd been waiting for all this time!  I also moved the dart down and the combination of both these adjustments seemed to work

Lovely new fitted muslin 

The new muslin still has fold marks on it and the darts are very quickly sewn and not pressed (I was getting very frustrated by this point) so they look a bit pointy, but essentially it's a very good, flattering fit.  Here's the back.

I still don't entirely know what I'm doing when I'm transferring the muslin changes to the pattern pieces but my method of winging it seems to be working.  Gertie really has pulled out all the stops for this sewalong, she's an amazing teacher and I'm so grateful. Despite all the huffing and puffing, I would never have been able to adjust the fit so well on my own.  The next step will be cutting out the real fabric (which fills me with horror) ... x

Shoe bag

Remember this post and my triumph at finding the shoe print fabric?  Well, here's the finished result.  

A cute little bag just large enough for a pair of your high heeled finest.  I actually made this as a commission for a friend, but it's such a good idea I may have to steal it (I also have lots of left over shoe fabric looking hopefully at me).

In other news, I've cut out my first vintage pattern (fanfare of trumpets).  

The red poly cotton fabric I'm using was cheap as chips at £2 a metre, so if it all goes horribly wrong I'll use it as a practice muslin.  If it all goes beautifully right then I've got a new top for £4 (yes!)


I'm also gearing up for my first sew-along - the Collette Pattern Crepe Dress hosted by Gertie. I'm still umming and ahhing about fabric.  I wanted some of the Japanese double gauze she featured in a recent post, but it was from a US fabric shop and ridiculously expensive to boot. I couldn't find a UK supplier so I may just copy the colour and fabric pattern (black or navy with polka dots - predictable, me?)  I'm going fabric shopping to the Goldhawk Road this week, so I'm sure I'll find something just as lovely for about a tenth of the price.  Anybody else doing the sew-along?  Would love to hear what fabrics you have in mind. x

Finished Beignet!

Hoorah, at last I've finished my Beignet skirt from Collette Patterns and I'm SSOOO pleased with it.  

I made it in a navy cotton drill with red detailing.  The pattern was great to work with and I whipped through it, until I got to the section that made me break out in a cold sweat - the twelve buttons and buttonholes. I know some sewers have certain sewing tasks they hate/can't do very well - well buttons and buttonholes are definitely mine.  I took me almost the same amount of time to make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons than it did to sew the entire rest of the skirt.  I just about managed to get them done without ruining the whole thing, apart from one rogue one that unfortunately looks like the Frankenstein's monster of buttonholes. This was thanks to a last minute slip of the hand with the seam ripper (and yes, it was the LAST buttonhole after 11 perfect ones, sob!) Once the skirt is buttoned up though, you don't even notice it, as my husband helpfully told me whilst I was mopping up my tears.

Things I liked about this pattern:

1) The instructions.  As ever, lovely and clear and easy to follow.

2) The fit.  I cut out my size and didn't have to make one adjustment, it fitted me like a glove.  I know some bloggers have had problems with the fit, so I think my body shape and this style just happen to be a good match.  I'm on the curvy side so maybe this helps?

3) The design.  I love the way the skirt is put together, it's so clever.  I particularly like the facings (which I'm so pleased I made in a contrast fabric, thanks Tilly for the idea!) and the lining which neatly covers over all the seams underneath.

Look at the facing!

4) The fact that the skill level is Intermediate!  I'm feeling super pleased with myself about this one particularly!

Here's one last look at the contrasting pockets.

Gearing up for skirt making

I’ve been spending all my sewing time making stuff for xmas craft fairs recently and am starting to get withdrawal symptoms! When I was making my niece’s xmas dress last week I realised I’d been really missing it – I want to do some dressmaking.  There’s something about the whole ritual of cutting out a pattern, choosing fabric and making it up that’s far more satisfying than making endless purses and cushions (although I do enjoy that, just not for weeks on end).

As a result, I’ve got a backlog of patterns crying out to be made into clothes. Top of the list is the Beignet skirt from my favourite pattern designer – Colette Patterns.

I really could do with making it now, as it’s the sort of skirt I’d wear all winter, and the fabric I’ve bought is quite winter-friendly (a heavyish navy cotton drill).  I’ve seen some really inspiring versions of this skirt too, which has been making me even more impatient to sew it.   One of my favourites is the 70’s style denim skirt made by Tilly.  I’ll be copying her method of sewing the pockets and facing in a contrast fabric - red with white polka dots in this case. So here are the ingredients for my Beignet.  The only thing missing is the thin cotton navy lining but you get the idea…

 Aren’t the red buttons fab?  

I found them on a tiny little stall in Shepherd’s Bush market and there were only twelve left.  The Beignet skirt needs twelve buttons (a scary thought, all those buttonholes!) so that sealed their fate.  My plan is to cut it out next week...

The story so far

Almost exactly a year ago, my younger son started school and I started the dressmaking course I'd been promising myself I'd take for ages. I absolutely loved the course and can't quite believe how much I've learnt in just a year. I also discovered sewing blogs and have become completely hooked - I'm naturally nosy which helps!  I really wanted to join in the fun, so here's my blog: a record of everything I make, the good, the bad and the ugly.

The first thing I want to show off is my Colette Patterns Sencha top.

When I first saw this pattern I wasn't particularly bowled over by the pictures on the cover. Then I came across a beautiful version made by Tilly (author of one of my favourite sewing blogs "Tilly and the Buttons") and was immediately converted. Tilly's version looked so retro and 50's and I really wanted mine to have a similar look.

If I make the top again (which I will), I'll make it with a fabric with more drape in it.  The way the top is described on the pattern, it's probably intended to be a looser fit than I made, so it can be tucked in. I used a medium-weight quilting cotton which does tend to be quite crisp.  Having said that though, it gives the top quite a fitted, structured look,  in a Joan from Mad Men kind of way.

The original neckline was WAY too high, I was panic stricken just trying to do the fitting, thinking I couldn't breath.  I lowered it by about 3cm, which keeps the neckline high but doesn't strangle you in the process.

I made buttonholes for the first time and my own covered buttons.
 

I'll definitely use a Colette pattern again.  I'm really pleased with my version which I've actually worn in real life.  I'll let you know if I get round to making another one....