Paradise for CHEAP!!!

Several years ago I went to Greece with the family for UK Traveller. We were on their dime, and staying at some really gorgeous properties. One day, we found ourselves in the smallest little town called Porto Kagio, on the water, in the Peloponnese, specifically, in the Mani area. We had one of the most perfect simple lunches of the whole trip, and afterwards, took a swim, just in front of the taverna. The taverna, called Akrotiri, advertised itself as having rooms above the restaurant, but we weren't looking at the time, so I kind of forgot about it. It always stayed with me as a place I'd go back to, on my own budget, but until just now, I never looked it up. We all know that websites don't do places justice, either for the good or the bad...so, take this all with a chunk of salt. But for the price (a room for four in the highest season is 80 euros and includes breakfast), and the location (you're 15 feet from the most idyllic water--so clean, so warm). It's a tiny little town--it's the only place to stay--so you have to want to be in the middle of nowhere! But you can book boat rides to take you to other magical beaches, and of course you should have a rental car, so you can do nice day trips. It's a perfect spot for at least a couple of days, and it's definitely the right price.

That's the little town of Porto Kagio shot from the road above...and the shots below are from around the area...

Greece Part 1

Last summer we went to the Peloponnese for 10 days, as my husband was assigned to photograph a travel story there. This was our first trip there together as a family, and I wanted to go to an island, as that seemed more like quintessential Greece to me. (I lived on the island of Kalymnos for about 6 months when I was 19 and 20.) But the assignment didn't include any islands, and we didn't have time on either side to add any in, so the Peloponnese it was.  What a wonderful surprise it was--I would say it might be the most perfect introduction to Greece, as it offers everything, but involves no ferry or plane schedules to work around. On our first day, we landed around 10am, and were at the temple in Corinth by lunch. Then we drove by the Corinth Canal, and then about an hour to Mycenae. We ended the day in Nafplia, a town that is close enough to Athens that it attracts wealthy Athenian weekenders, so it's a little on the price-y side, but since it isn't a big tourist town, it feels like a find. We stayed at the Nafplia Palace, a modernist property done in the 60s, which was on the top of the town, with amazing views. Our guidebook the whole trip? This is Greece! 

I'm Dreaming of: Alonissos, Greece

Every May I think "this is the year we're going to go to Greece"...and it never happens. I haven't been there since I was in my early twenties, and I'm dying to go back. But I'm very concerned that I find the perfect place to bring Matt (who has never been, and would rather go to Italy than anywhere, so Greece is a hard sell) and Clara...I want a beach front property, near a sandy beach, within walking distance to a town. The island should also not have an airport (which brings in the riff-raff), and it should also not take 3 ferries to get to. I know, I'm being a little impossible. Well, as I search, I'll post what seems like it just might fit the bill.  Here's one:

Cookbooks That Inspire Travel

(above, some of our collection)

I've bought books on amazon.co.uk in the past, so I get emails when new cookbooks come out. Usually I can't stand getting emails from anyone trying to sell me anything, but I like getting these, because they are always books or chefs I haven't necessarily heard of, and I'm always so pleased with whatever I order.  I just saw that Jamie Oliver is coming out with a book on April 15, inspired by his travels in Europe. I really love Jamie Oliver (who doesn't?) and I like the way he approaches travel (his magazine showcases alot of it), so I bet it will be good.  

Here are some of my favorites that I learned about from the UK site, but are now on Amazon in the States, so you don't have to worry about expensive shipping charges...

Falling Cloudberries by Tessa Kiros (Greece, Finland)

Kitchen of Light by Andreas Viestad (Scandinavia)(this has inspired a trip to Norway, hopefully this summer!)

Beaneaters and Bread Soup by Lori di Mori (Tuscany) (this showcases all these different farmers, restauranteurs, and artisans, and we used it as a guide when we were there)

French Feasts by Stephane Reynaud (Actually, I like every book by him!) 

File Under Rentals: Pure Crete Rentals

I've had the brochure from Pure Crete since before there was internet...I still haven't gone to any of there properties, but I have to say, they are an agency worth looking into if you are interested in a relatively inexpensive rental, with an authentic vibe...something you want when you go to Greece.  Here is what I'm looking for when I look for a rental there, and I need to preface this with a little background:  I went on a program in Kalymnos, one of the more unattractive Greek islands in the Dodecanese group (most well known island there is Rhodes), in 1986 for six months, and then I went back the next year, to be a nanny. I was so into living there, imagining that I would ultimately end up spending my adult life in Greece.  I even majored in comp lit, my language being Modern Greek.  I went back once in the 90s, but since I met my husband in '96, I haven't been there.  He has this thing about Greece--he's completely uninterested.  He says its because he doesn't care about Greek food, but I think it's just that he'd rather go back to Italy any day.  Anyway, I keep telling him how amazing it is (although I know it's changed so much since I was there eons ago), and I know I can get him to go there, but I want him to be blown away once we get there.  Which is why I keep hesitating on going.  I want to find the perfect little house, overlooking the sea (swimmable, sandy beach), with a little village close by (walking distance), with a great fishmonger, cafe, taverna, bakery...Now, that shouldn't be too hard to find--it's just...what island to choose?  Each island has such a personality, and I want the one that feels just...so...well, maybe the Greece that I experienced when I was 18.
See--everyone has travel issues--sometimes it's having too much information that makes it too hard to pull the trigger and make a decision.  In the meantime, I will post here all the lovely properties I find, and may never visit...and maybe you will go and can report back. This property looks pretty sweet, even more so at 946 euros per week in high season, and it sleeps four.