Appreciating old favorites: linguine vongole

I've been revisiting an old favorite lately: Martha's linguine with clams. It's an old stand-by, and one that I posted about when I first started blogging. I'm still making it, but I've adjusted it with little tweaks that I've come to prefer along the way. I thought I'd share my adapted version, and the updated photos I've shot of the dish that are much more consistent with my current photography style.

I'm elbow deep in Thanksgiving preparations - I'm sure you are too. I have a wonderful flourless chocolate cake recipe from a fellow blogger to share and perhaps a couple other goodies from the feast. Would love to hear about what you are cooking!

Linguine vongole (adapted from Martha Stewart Living)
Serves 4 to 6

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound linguine
1/4 pound slab bacon, cut 3/8 inch thick
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
3/4 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
1/8 - 1/4 cup dry white wine
3 pounds Manila clams or cockles, scrubbed and rinsed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place bacon on a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for ~20 minutes until fat renders. Remove from oven and drain on paper towels. Cut into 1/8 inch strips or small cubes.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add salt and pasta, and cook until just shy of al dente (note: it is important to not fully cook the pasta as it will continue to cook in later steps). Drain, reserving 1/2 cup cooking water.

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and red pepper flakes, and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds; do not let garlic brown. Stir in 1/8 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of black pepper; cook for 30 seconds. Add wine, and simmer for 1 minute. Add clams and bacon; increase heat to medium-high, and cook, covered, until clams begin to open, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in butter until incorporated. Stir in parsley. Add pasta to skillet, and toss to coat, adding reserved cooking water a tablespoon at a time to loosen, if desired. Transfer to a large serving bowl, and serve immediately.

In celebration of summer: coffee ice cream

We spent memorial day weekend at the beach (with everyone else in Manhattan). Luckily, the weather was glorious and we were staying within walking distance of a town and didn't need to get in a car and sit in traffic much.

Our dog enjoyed long walks on the beach and we explored the local restaurants and shops. I stumbled upon a wonderful little antique store full of treasures for the food stylist at heart and ended up with a treasure trove of random flatware pieces, bowls and odds and ends and along with them, some new photo ideas.

My one major desire for the weekend was to indulge in some local ice cream. Believe-it-or-not, the "best" ice cream parlor in town (according to the locals) was constantly packed and it wasn't until Monday evening that the line died down to a tolerable wait. I guess I wasn't the only person who had ice cream on the brain. I was reminded of an amazing ice cream recipe that I took straight from Martha last fall and have been saving sharing for a more appropriate season. In celebration of the coming of summer, here it is: coffee ice cream.

Coffee is my favorite flavor (with mint chocolate chip and cookie dough close runners up). I used to think making your own ice cream was a bit over the top but it turns out (I guess as with most other things) that fresh, homemade ice cream is so sublimely superior to store-bought that short of going to a local dairy, it's pretty hard to beat.

What was particularly wonderful about the ice cream I made, is that I got the brewed espresso from my favorite artisanal coffee shop. The gave me a slightly puzzled look when I asked for the espresso to be measured in a measuring cup I brought and then put into a ziploc storage container - but they obliged and it served as the critical flavoring component of the ice cream. If you don't know how to make a good cup of espresso (or don't have the beans / equipment on hand) don't take a shortcut with instant - the real thing makes all the difference.

Coffee ice cream (from Martha Stewart Living)
(Makes 6 cups)

2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup brewed espresso
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
8 large egg yolks

Prepare an ice-water bath. Combine milk, cream, 1/2 cup sugar, the espresso, and vanilla in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Meanwhile, whisk together egg yolks and remaining 1/2 cup sugar in a bowl.

Gradually whisk half the hot milk mixture into the egg-yolk mixture. Pour egg-yolk mixture into saucepan, and whisk. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Pour through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl set in ice-water bath. Let cool, stirring occasionally. Place plastic wrap on surface of custard to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate 2 hours.

Freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to an airtight container, and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving.

Fresh from the farmer's market: pan-roasted balsamic onions (and my chicken with creamy mustard sauce)

I took an extended absence from the farmer’s market. Partly I was lazy about getting over there on Saturday, partly I was tired of the same old cold weather offerings and small number of stands typical of the deep winter. I was excited anew to check out the offerings last weekend since spring is now in the air, and I was sure there would be the first signs of a new crop hitting the market. To my delight, many of the stands that had been absent for so many months were back. There was a wealth of flowers: the first tulips, including the ones I love with pointed bi-color petals, and a variety of branches from peach blossom to magnolia (I missed out on the latter by 5 minutes – guess who will be there bright and early next weekend?).

There were many root vegetables, which, of course, is not new news but I was attracted to some beautiful onions I hadn’t noticed before: large red and white pearl onions (much bigger than I had ever seen before but with their telltale oval shape) and large cipollini – red and white (have you ever seen red before?). I was reminded of my favorite whole onion recipe that was featured in Martha Stewart Living’s Thanksgiving issue two years ago. For some reason, that particular issue was full of particularly inspiring recipes and ideas, much more so than the same issue last year. One of the many recipes I tried in that now dog-eared edition is one for pan-roasted balsamic onions. The recipe calls for mixed red and white cipollini and pearl onions as well as leeks. The leeks don't really work in Martha’s version – they wilt and discolor and become very unimpressive lump, so I have my own way of dealing with them, which I will share.

I prepared my bounty with some chicken, wild rice and snow peas. The onions are the show-stopper though – and I love that they are left whole so you can appreciate the beauty of their different shapes and colors.


Pan-roasted balsamic onions (adapted from Martha Stewart Living)
(Serves 8 to 10)

30 ounces mixed onions including (white and red pearl onions and cipollini onions)
2 1/4 pounds leeks (optional)
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter (optional)

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add white and red pearl and cipollini onions, and boil for 1 minute. Drain. Let stand until cool enough to handle, then carefully peel, removing roots but leaving the ends intact. Transfer to a large bowl, and add 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; toss to combine.

Meanwhile, remove any damaged outer leaves from leeks (if using), then trim and discard dark-green tops. Cut them in half lengthwise, and swish in a bowl of cold water to rid them of dirt and sand, holding them so that the layers do not separate. Pat dry, and place on a roasting pan. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

Broil leeks for 5-7 minutes until browned on top and softened.

Meanwhile, add 1 tablespoon oil and white, red, and cipollini onions to skillet, and sauté turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium low, and add balsamic vinegar and stock; cover skillet, and cook until onions are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Add leeks cut-side down for last few minutes so that balsamic sauce coats them. Uncover, and add butter (if using); increase heat to high, and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until liquid reduces to a glaze and coats the onions, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish. Season with salt and pepper if desired, and serve immediately.

Pan-roasted chicken with creamy mustard tarragon sauce
(serves 3-4)

2 medium-sized skinless, boneless chicken breasts
Fresh tarragon
Crème fraîche
Dijon mustard with seed
2 tbs olive oil
Salt and pepper

Add oil to a skillet (not non-stick) and heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Add chicken breasts and brown each side on medium heat. Add ¼ cup water, cover, and cook over medium-low heat until cooked through. Remove chicken from pan and reserve.

Over low heat, add 3 tbs mustard and 6 tbs crème fraîche to pan and stir, scraping pan so that browned bits on bottom are released. Stir in 1 tablespoon roughly chopped tarragon leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Add additional crème fraîche if desired.

Slice chicken and plate it. Spoon sauce over chicken. Garnish with a couple tarragon leaves.

Go ahead and blush: poached pears

It’s pear season! Passing by myriads of pears in the fruit section of Whole Foods the other day sent a strong message that it’s time for a pear recipe. “Winter pears” are harvested in the Fall before they are ripe and kept cold to stop the ripening process until they are ready to be sold. They can be kept in cold storage for up to six months, which explains why you see beautiful pears in stores for as long as you do. Pears are among my favorite fruits. I love Seckel pears in particular. They are sweet and juicy when ripe and relatively small: the perfect pear for a dessert.

Martha had a gorgeous recipe for cranberry-poached pears in the magazine a few months ago. I made a note of it and finally got around to trying it out this week, even though we’re not exactly at the height the cranberry harvest. The best thing about poaching with cranberries is that they produce beautiful, delicately rosy pears – like a child’s cheeks after a romp in the snow. The poached pear color is deeper on the outside, fading to a faint blush on the inside. The dish has just the right sweetness to make it a refreshing end to a meal without cloying in any way. If you take offence to cranberries, as I know some people do, my guess is that poaching with pomegranate seeds would yield a similar result (both in color and level of tartness). Due to the popularity of pomegranates, it’s relatively easy to find frozen seeds, which would make much quicker work of producing the poaching liquid.

I served my little pears with fromage blanc which provided a nice tart complement to the pears’ sweetness. This is a lovely little guilt-free dessert.

Cranberry-poached pears (from Martha Stewart Living)
(serves 8)

8 small pears, such as Seckel or Forelle, peeled, stems intact
2 tablespoons superfine sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1 large strip (4 to 5 inches) orange peel
1 large strip (4 to 5 inches) lemon peel
5 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
2 3/4 cups (10 ounces) fresh cranberries
1 tea bag, such as green tea or fruit tea
1/4 cup dried cranberries (optional)
Greek yogurt, crème fraîche, or soft goat cheese, for serving

Place pears in a saucepan large enough to hold them snugly. Add enough water to barely cover them (about 4 cups). Add sugar, cinnamon, citrus peels, honey, and lemon juice. Using the tip of a paring knife, scrape vanilla seeds into pan, and toss in pod. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Reduce heat, and simmer gently until pears are tender, about 10 minutes.

Add fresh cranberries, and simmer until cranberries are soft but not mushy, about 3 minutes more.

Use a spoon to transfer pears to a dish. Spoon cranberries and syrup around pears. Add tea bag and dried cranberries if using. Let cool for 15 minutes. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Before serving, remove vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, citrus peels, and tea bag. Transfer pears to plates with some of the cranberries, syrup, and a dollop of yogurt, crème fraîche, or cheese.

Moist and marbled coffee cake

I love a good coffee cake. And to be honest, I’m not really that picky. I’ll take most anything you throw my way. I love all varieties: the crumble-on-the-top kind, the gooey-on-the-inside kind, the cake-y kind. Lately, I’ve followed a reliable recipe for a very-moist-chocolate-coffee-swirl on the inside kind. It’s a crowd pleaser. It’s simple and fairly quick and is made in a bundt pan that always makes cakes taste better. And then there’s that very pleasing swirl on the inside . . . I think this recipe would be fun in individual mini bundt pans too.

Aunt Patty's coffee cake (from Martha Stewart Living)

For the filling:
3 tablespoons sugar
4 ½ teaspoons instant coffee granules
4 ½ teaspoons unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

For the batter:
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for pan
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pan
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 cup sour cream, room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 350. Make the filling: stir together sugar, coffee and cocoa powder in a small bowl; set aside.

2. Butter a 10-inch (12 cup) Bundt pan. Dust with flour, and tap out excess. Make the batter: whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. Put the butter and sugar into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce speed to medium. Mix in eggs, one at a time. Mix in flour mixture in 3 batches, alternating with sour cream. Add vanilla, and mix 1 minute.

3. Spread one-third of the batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle with half the filling. Spread another third of the batter on top, followed by the remaining filling. Spread remaining batter over top. Run a thin knife through batter to marbleize.

4. Bake until a cake tester inserted into center comes out clean, 35 to 38 minutes. Let cool 30 minutes. Invert onto a plate

Hummingbird cupcakes from Martha Stewart

Hummingbird cake is always a non-chocolate favorite. There are many recipes out there that are largely similar except in butter and oil content. Some leave out the coconut. I opted for Martha's because I generally find her recipes to work well. She called for dried pineapple "flowers" as a garnish but they were too fussy for me (although beautiful). Truth be told, I tried to make them and failed - they never dried out enough. See Martha Stewart for details. I experimented with a couple of other garnishes instead -- store-bought dried pineapple and pecans to suggest the ingredients in the batter and sweet peas and nasturtiums I found in the farmer's market to remind of hummingbirds (plus, don't they look sweet?).

For the cupcakes (makes 24 cupcakes)

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pan
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 cups sugar
3 large eggs
2 cups mashed ripe banana (about 3 large)
One 8-ounce can crushed pineapple, drained
1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
1 cup unsweetened desiccated coconut

Preheat oven to 350°, with rack in center. Line cupcake pan with paper liners; set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt; set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter, vanilla, and sugar until combined, about 2 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating each before adding the next. Beat at medium speed until mixture is pale yellow and fluffy, about 3 minutes.

In a medium bowl, stir together banana, pineapple, walnuts, and coconut. Add to egg mixture, mixing until combined. Stir in flour mixture.

Divide batter evenly among liners, filling about 2/3 full. Bake, rotating pans halfway through, until golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 25 to 28 minutes.

Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Once cupcakes have cooled, use a small offset spatula to frost tops of each cupcake. Decorate with dried pineapple flowers, if desired. Serve at room temperature.

For the frosting (Makes 3 cups)

8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, room temperature
1 pound confectioners' sugar, sifted

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese and vanilla until light and creamy, about 2 minutes. With mixer on medium speed, gradually add butter, beating until incorporated.

Reduce mixer speed to low. Gradually add sugar, beating until incorporated. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before using.

Note: Adapted from Martha Stewart Living, June 2003