3-D Art: First Grade Group Project

Each year our elementary school has an auction to raise money for the art program. As my daughter's classroom docent, I had to come up with a group project for the class to contribute to the auction. 

In the past, I have led the class in creating a collaborative canvas. 

This is from 3 years ago (I was docent to 2 classes):

This is from 2 years ago:

 This is from last year:

I really like to see the individual handiwork of each student manifest in the final product. I love seeing the uninhibited creativity of their little minds shining. 

This year, I decided to go mixed media 3D on our project by helping the class create a mobile.

For this mobile project, you will need: 

• Cardstock

• Mirrored Cardstock

• Permanent Markers and Crayons

• Laminating ability (optional)

• Embroidery Hoop

• Ribbon

I began with an oval die-cut (in teacher's workroom) and several colors of cardstock.  I included one cardstock that was mirrored metallic on one side. I thought the light-catching element would be nice in a mobile. I cut enough for each child to have 4 ovals in the art. Circles or triangles would also make super cute designs for this piece.

I gave the students ideas and some instruction on decorating each of their ovals with sharpie and crayon.  I included swirls, plaid patterns, pictures of "vegetation" (that was their new vocab word of the day), and I required that they each put their first initial on one oval--as their "signature" on the piece. My daughter's teacher was kind enough to laminate them for me. 

 After I cut them all out of the laminating (about 40 minutes in the car at the soccer fields), I laid them out in the order I would be sewing them. 

Then I sewed them together. If you have never sewed through paper, it is easy-peasy.  Just begin at the top, backstitch to tie-off just like you would on fabric, then feed each new piece in as you come to the end of one.  Be sure to leave some thread "tails" on the top end of each of your rows. We'll use those later to attach them to the hoop.

I measured the width of all my strings of ovals laid next to each other to determine how large my embroidery hoop should be before I bought it. Mine was 30 inches in circumference. I also bought some inexpensive ribbon that would coordinate with the colors of the ovals. 

Now, on to the assembly:

This part isn't hard, but it is a bit tedious. Tie each row of ovals to the embroidery hoop, going around both rings using a square knot. 

 Slide each piece around to evenly place the rows around the hoop.

Cut four lengths of ribbon 24-28 inches in length.  Tie double knots in each ribbon length at its center to four "corners" of the circle. Gather these doubled ribbons with a rubber band to create the top of the mobile.

Tie short cuts of ribbon all around the hoop and over the rubber band on the top. I used some of the ribbons sticking out above the rubber band to tie on a loop ribbon for hanging. 

The students were SO excited to see what their ovals had become!  I think this could be such a cute piece to hang in a child's room or above a baby's crib (out of reach, of course!).  I think a mobile done just in black, white and silver would be striking. Or one in all blue or all pink tones would be fun. The possibilities are endless!

Home Tour: Fall and Halloween Decor

Happy Fall, Y'all!  

I frequently get asked about my handmade fall decor, so I decided to share a few areas of my home and how the decorations came to be.  I have a kid-friendly house, so nothing is fancy or expensive.  I like decorating (especially handmade stuff), but I LOVE how excited my kids get when they see that I have added fun festivity to our home! It makes me smile, too. (:

MY SIDEBOARD

 (pictured above), located in my dining room 

• Autumn Grasses. Purchased at JoAnn's, similar here and here. 
• BOO letters. I spray painted them with a warm white, then painted the rims gold. Find the letters here. 
• Chalkboard. Made using a second hand framed picture from Goodwill, using this tutorial. 
• Fabric Pumpkins. Handmade using this blog post. 

DOOR WREATHS

• Wreath form purchased at Joann's (similar here).  After trying several kinds of forms, I now have a pretty strong opinion that the kind made of pressed, shaped straw wrapped in plastic is the most sturdy. Just my 2-cents.
• Burlap and fabric flowers made using tutorial found here and here. 
• Feathers made from yarn and liquid starch. Tutorial found here. 

FOYER

• Floral pieces and Pumpkin from Joann's. 
• Thankful board: 1x4 wood, painted light brown, then sanded around edges to distress. Vinyl "thankful."
• Sitting scarecrow: This was a hand-me-down from my mom. :)

DINING ROOM

• Table: Tray and metallic balls from Pier One.  Leaves from JoAnn's. Vintage lace table runner made according to this tutorial. 
• Mini mason jar floral arrangement:  These are the Atlas Mason jars that Classico Pesto comes in. I always save them. They make excellent small drinking glasses for my kids, and they are adorable in decorating.  I painted these with a warm white spray paint.  Floral pieces are from JoAnn's.

FIREPLACE

• Painting (of Colorado Rockies in Fall) available here. 
• Wool Ball Garland made using these.
• Fall Feather Garland tutorial found here.  
• Letterboard is "The Poet" from Letterfolk.

The Bondi Top Pattern Review

I have a friend named Lindsey Rae who designs patterns, and I have been a pattern tester for her in 

the past (see my Noosa Shift Dress Pattern Review). Her patterns are amazingly simple, well-written, thoroughly tested, and flattering on any figure. 

The Bondi Top was the pattern that really launched her career as a designer, so I have been excited to try it out. I finally made my first Bondi Top a couple of weeks ago, and I loved it so much that I made myself 2 more!

Why I love this pattern: 

• It is downloadable (available HERE from Etsy). Pattern downloads are super easy to store and replicate if you want to make new sizes. 
• It is adjustable for size AND length. I have a long torso, so I added 2 inches to the length and loved the result!
• It is a tad bit longer in the back than the front, which makes for a flattering fit. 
• It has a contrasting fabric option. Don't you LOVE the additional print design on each of the shirts?! 
• And probably my favorite feature: It requires NO notions. No zippers, buttons, ties, or hooks. Just fabric and thread. 

I used 3 different types of fabric for my shirts: lightweight cotton for the yellow and blue shirt above; rayon for the next shirt pictured; and a woven cotton/poly fabric for the third shirt. 

Similar lightweight cottons to those in my yellow and blue shirt can be found HERE.

 This silky rayon is dreamy to wear. It was more time-consuming to sew because I had to pin more since the fabric is more slippery, but it was worth every minute. Similar fabric can be found HERE. 

This was such a fun fabric. It has that Aztec/Peruvian blanket or poncho style, but is less heavy. Similar woven fabric can be found HERE. The contrast fabric is a woven cotton linen/twill; similar (but without print) found HERE.

My colorful and original jewelry is from one of my favorite charities, African Promise Foundation. I know the founder and can vouch for this organization's commitment to bettering the lives of the less-fortunate through beautiful hand-made jewelry sales. 

Vintage Lace Table Runner

Layers of vintage lace make this one-of-a kind runner perfect on your dining or console table. It goes with any decor and looks fabulous layered over other runners or tablecloths!

I recently bought a bag of vintage lace pieces on a boutique deal. I have since discovered that Amazon carries the same thing for a great price and free shipping. You can get an assortment of cream or white lace, or if you like to mix it up, some of both!

   

This is also a super way for crafters to use up old lace scraps that, if you are like me, you never throw away!

To make your own Vintage Lace Table Runner, you will need: 

• 12 yards Vintage Lace, varied styles
• Cutting Mat, Ruler, and Rotary Cutter 

    

• Sewing pins
• Sewing machine

Instructions: 

1. Determine how wide you want your table runner, and add an inch. Cut your lace pieces to this length using the ruler and mat to make straight cuts. I wanted a 12 inch runner, so I made my lace 13 inches. 

2. Pin lace layers together in about 2 foot sections, overlapping just enough to sew (about 1/4 inch).  Use plenty of pins! Lace can be slippery!

3. Once you have three 2-foot sections, pin those sections together and sew.  If you find (as I did) that the lace stretched or slipped some and your edges aren't as clean as you want, don't worry! This is why you added that inch at the beginning!

4. Iron the runner if needed, then use the ruler and mat to carefully square up the entire runner. Take your time so you get it right! 

And you are done! I hope you love your new runner as much as I love mine! 

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Cut-Up Workout T-Shirt Tutorial

Do you have old, boxy t-shirts you'd wear to exercise in if they only had a more flattering fit?  This easy, no-sew tutorial will teach you how to alter (and ventilate! ;-)) your t-shirts into two different styles of cute workout tops--perfect for lifting, climbing, dancing, riding, squatting, jumping, punching, kicking, running or walking!

I teach an exercise class a couple of mornings each week, and several gals who attend asked me about these shirts.  I told them to bring shirts and scissors to class one day, and we did a live tutorial right there in the gym after class!  Two of my favorite things combined into one class!! I was on Cloud 9!

Now, on to your tutorial:

All you need for either of these styles is a cotton jersey knit t-shirt and sharp fabric scissors. 

Style 1: Back Diamond Weave T-Shirt

1. Lay shirt out flat.

2. Cut through top and bottom layers of shirt along bottom of front neckline. 

3. Cut one sleeve off; then turn the piece you cut off to use as a guide for cutting off the second sleeve.

4. Turn shirt on its side, lining up shoulder seams and flattening. 

5. Beginning at the top of the back side, cut 1 inch wide strips all the way down the back. Start with pretty deep strips--4-5 inches from the fold (they will double when you unfold). Then gradually get smaller as you work your way down. My last cut is usually only about 1 inch deep. 

6. Turn shirt so the back is on top. Stretch out cuts so the fabric rolls in on itself. 

7. Take top strip and make a loop. 

8. Take next strip and pull it up through the top loop.

9. Make a loop with the strip you just pulled through. 

10. Continue looping and pulling the strip below through all the way down the shirt. 

11. Leave the last strip loose. 

12. Take the second to last strip (that is pulled through the one above it) and make sure it is turned in a loop.

13. Cut the bottom strip in half. 

14. Pull one side of the bottom strip up through the bottom of the last loop.

15. Pull the other side of the bottom strip down through the top of the last loop. 

16. Tie a double knot with the two sides of the bottom strip. 

17. Finished back!

18. Finished front!

Style 2: Side Weave T-Shirt

1. Lay t-shirt out flat. 

2. Cut through top and bottom layers of shirt along bottom of front neckline. 

3. Cut one sleeve off; then turn the piece you cut off to use as a guide for cutting off the second sleeve.
4. Beginning 1 inch below the sleeve opening, cut 1 inch wide slits into the sides of the shirt. I begin with about 2 inch slits, gradually get bigger toward the middle of the shirt, then taper back to smaller slits at the end. My last cut is only about 1 inch across.
5. Turn shirt on its side, lining up shoulder seams.
6. Stretch the strips so the fabric curls in on itself.
7. Pick up the top strip (this should be the bottom part of the sleeve), and turn a single loop in it.
8. Pull the next strip up through the loop.
9. Turn a loop in the strip you just pulled through and continue pulling and turning all the way down the shirt. 

10. When you get to the bottom, leave the last strip alone.

11. Cut the bottom strip in half. 

12. Take the second to last strip (that is pulled through the one above it) and make sure it is turned in a loop.

13. Pull one side of the bottom strip up through the bottom of the last loop.

14. Pull the other side of the bottom strip down through the top of the last loop. 

15. Tie a double knot with the two sides of the bottom strip.
16. One side: DONE!
17. Repeat on other side.
18. Cute workout top!

  

Sharing at these link-ups.