Yes, I searched, Clutch Adjustment

[Hugh R]

I've been trying to adjust my clutch and getting the pedal to come back up to the top position. I may have a stretched out cable, I have a spare.

But, here is what I'm wondering the 1.2/1.0 mm adjustment in Wayne's book shows the stop nut on the other side of the arm than were it is in the pic below.

You're supposed to get the 1.2/1.0 adjustment between the bottom of the bolt and the stop plate, right?

Or is the 1.2/1.0 gap created my the bolt and I measure the gap between the two that is created by the bolt?

My gap is closed up almost completely, does this mean my clutch plate is worn out?

I have the sleeve on the cable adjusted all the way and the pedal only comes up 1/2 way.

Any suggestions?

[Joe Bob]

Bentley says, "Gap between clutch positioning lever and stop bolt......1.2mm

With cable end disconnected, loosen lock and adjust stop bolt until specified gap is obtained between lever and stop bolt.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Assuming the gap is correct and you need more pull, I would increase the gap. If that doesn't work, 1.2mm isn't much and you may have exceeded the design factor and need to replace the cable.

It's been awhile....but isn't there also an adjustment at the pedal?

[Hugh R]

Notice the location of the lock nut on this pic from Wayne's book and compare where it is on mine which is on the other side of the plate.

I'm wondering if the PO or his mechanic put the lock nut on the other side to get additional clearance because the clutch lining is so worn out? The lever with the circlip appears to have splines, maybe I should pull it off and reposition it?

[Joe Bob]

Bentley shows the lock on the same side as the bolt head. Like your pic #1. I can crawl underneath and look how mine is if you need me to....

edit:....MINE is on the same side as the bolt head......


>>>>>>>>>>>>.

[Joe Bob]

Btw, there is also a measurement for the cable distance from the end of the tube and the end of the cable.

25+/- 0.5mm (0.98 +/- 0.02in)
(difference measured at transmission)

[Joe Bob]

Call me if you need more help....

[pete3799]

I think you need to re-index the release arm. Take the clip off and remove the small arm and rotate one tooth towards the front .

[RWebb]

Hugh... have you ever rebuilt your pedal cluster?

[Hugh R]

No,but it seems fine.

[jamesjedi]

Looks like it would be a good time to replace the spring, or, may as well rebuild the cluster. It will change the feel of the clutch. Also, it is inexpensive.

[James Brown]

Spring in the peddle assembly help pull the clutch peddle out or back to the rest position.

[Hugh R]

I'm going to wait until I am in contact with my friend with a big lift in his garage. Futzing with the underside of the car without a lift is a pain. I'll try reindexing the lever first, and cable replacement second. I'm convinced one of those is the issue. I'll ponder the peddle cluster box after that. Thanks guys.

[RWebb]

Good luck & post pics

[john walker's workshop]

first, you should stick a screwdriver between the arms and lightly try to pry them apart. if some clearance appears, adjust the bolt with just a bit of clearance. if you don't get any more gap, then the disc is down to the rivets. be sure that the long arm is all the way back against it's stop. if the cable sheath is adjusted too tight, it may not be. pedal height is then adjusted by the cable sheath jambnuts. looks like you're out of adjustment there also, or you're trying to compensate for a broken roll-pin holding the clutch pedal to the shaft and ran out of threads on the sheath.

[Peter Zimmermann]

Here's the take apart guide...

Clutch cable removal – 1977-1986

1. Place the car in the garage so that you have room to open your driver's door, if not all the way at least most of the way.
2. Jack up the rear of the car until the bottom of the tires clear the floor by a few inches (you want enough room so that you can get under the front transmission mount plate). Set the car firmly on axle stands and the put your jack under the belly of the car for extra protection. I use a 1' x 2' piece of 3/4" ply between the jack and car, and place the wood so that it's under where the horizontal part of the floor changes to vertical (just forward of the trans mount). Now the car won't fall! Of course, if you have a lift, use that!
3. Remove the pedal board carpet, driver's floor carpet, and the pedal board. To release the gas pedal simply grip it firmly at the top and pull straight back - it'll pop off its rod. Pull the board away from the pedals. FYI: Do not attempt to remove the center console for this repair.
4. Go under the car with two 15mm open end wrenches, 2x flat-bladed medium screwdrivers, 1x large flat-bladed screwdriver or medium pry bar, and a snap ring pliers that works on retaining rings with small holes in the ends. Locate the omega spring under the diff housing, along with the long arm that it attaches to, and a short arm whose end seats against the end of an adjustment bolt. Remove the snap ring holding the short arm, pull the arm straight down and set it aside (you might need a couple of flat-bladed screwdrivers for this).
5. Use your 2 wrenches to loosen the cable nuts on the back end of the clutch cable bowden tube (at a small aluminum anchor that’s attached to the differential housing side cover), pull the bowden tube away from the mount.
6. Use your large screwdriver (pry bar) to release the tension on the big cable arm by pushing the arm toward the front of the car. It will happen quickly because of the omega spring tension, keep your fingers out of the way.
7. Unhook the cable from the long arm (you can pull the arm down or just leave it there, but if you leave it be careful, it might fall off and hit you on the head – early arms have a locking pin, later cars don’t). FYI: The short arm fits onto splines, the larger arm floats on a smooth part of the throw out bearing fork shaft. If you remove the long arm clean it before installation and put a thin coat of moly or lithium-based grease on the shaft. If the omega spring requires replacement the long arm must be removed. On long arms with a securing pin, the pin must be driven out using a punch and hammer (difficulty factor can range from medium to very hard depending on rust/debris).
8. Go back inside the car (head first under the steering wheel/column), push the clutch pedal to the floor (it might already be there), and locate the clutch cable clevis pin and fork. Rotate the pin until you can remove it (it might be a real pain to take out depending on wear – you might have to use a small punch and hammer, different types of pliers, etc., or it might just come out easily). Once it's out pull the end of the cable, with clevis fork, out of the tunnel far enough so that you can use 12mm and 10mm open end wrenches to loosen the jamb nut. Unscrew the fork and nut all the way and set them aside for cleaning.
9. Go back under the car and look up between the forward side of your front transmission mount plate and the firewall forward of the nose of the transmission (you might have to move your jack and safety board a little). Locate where the clutch cable bowden tube connects to the firewall, put a flat-bladed screwdriver under its edge and gently pry it loose toward the rear of the car.
10. Grab the cable and pull it out of the car from under the back of the car; have a couple rags handy, it'll be greasy.

What you need to know:
A. With the cable on the workbench hold the bowden tube with one hand and pull the cable through it toward what would be the back of the car. Does it move smoothly? Any broken strands?
B. What is the condition of the arm and bushing where the clevis fork attaches?
C. Is the black helper spring on the left side of the pedal cluster, for the clutch pedal, intact?

[Peter Zimmermann]

...and the put it together guide...

Clutch cable installation – 1977-1986

OK, first I must make a few assumptions; (1) the pedal assembly area has been cleaned, (2) the clutch pedal helper spring on the left side of the pedal tray is in good condition, (3) the clevis pin bushing has been replaced, (4) the rear of the car is in a raised position, and properly/safely supported, and (5) if your old cable, at its Bowden tube, passed through a hangar/anchor attached to the side of the transmission, roughly above the throttle lever, remove that anchor and re-install the nut with a wavy lock washer. The hangar will not be re-used.

First, put a thin coating of grease (I like amber disc brake wheel bearing grease) on the new clutch cable. Installation into the car is tricky, because you don’t want that greased cable to touch anything, and drag dirt along with it. While lying under the car guide the clevis end of the cable over the throttle lever on the side of the transmission (clean towels, rags, even newspaper, placed to help keep the cable clean can be invaluable), and into the cable attachment tube welded onto the firewall. Push the cable forward until the Bowden tube reaches the firewall tube, and push the cable home over the firewall tube.

Move to the inside of the car, locate the front end of the cable in the tunnel, and pull it out from the tunnel. Wipe the threads off because usually a little bit of dirt will be sticking to them. Screw the jamb nut on to the cable. On cars with a known good clutch, leave six threads on the clutch cable showing between the rear side of the jamb nut and the rear end of the threaded section of cable (in other words, screw the nut on until it almost bottoms out, then back it off until you can count six threads). Screw on the clevis fork until it reaches the nut, but don’t tighten it; the chance that the other end of the cable is at the correct position to install over the hook will be slim. Push the cable into the tunnel until the clevis fork lines up with the clutch pedal shaft, and push the clevis pin home with a light coat of high quality grease. Your final step before getting out of the car is to pull the clutch pedal up from the floor and support it in that position (I use a 13mm open/box wrench for this, probably because it works so well I’ve never bothered to make a tool).

OK, back under the car. Take your pry bar (large flat-bladed screwdriver), your 2x 15mm open end wrenches, 2x 13mm open end wrenches, and your circlip pliers with you. Hook the cable onto the hook on the long cable arm and use the pry bar to push that arm toward the rear of the car – use your head, the spring is very strong, and you don’t want fingers in the way. Loosen the adjustment bolt jamb nut, also on the long arm, and back off the bolt a little. Grease the splines on the TOB fork shaft, slide the short arm on, and install the circlip. Take the end of the Bowden tube, spread the 15mm nuts apart enough to fit over the aluminum anchor, and, with a lock washer on each side, slip the cable into place on the anchor. To save a problem later, slide up under the firewall and make sure that the forward end of the Bowden tube is properly seated.

Now, go back inside the car and take a 12mm and 10mm open end wrench with you. Remove your clutch pedal brace, and push the pedal down to the floor and hold it there while snugging the jamb nut to the clevis fork (I use my left elbow against the clutch pedal, use my left hand to hold the 12mm wrench in place on the clevis, and snug the nut using the 10mm wrench in my right hand). It’s a little awkward, but you can figure out the best way that will work for you. Release the clutch pedal from the floor; it should come up close to the top of its regular travel.

Now for the fun part, cable adjustment. You should be back under the car, hopefully you still have your 15mm and 13mm wrenches with you, and you also need two feeler gauges; a 1.0mm and an 0.2mm. You can also use, of course, a 1.2mm gauge along with your 1.0 gauge; I found it easier to have the first two gauges, and use them together for the initial setting, then use only the thick one for final adjustment.
With the clutch cable slack, adjust the distance between the end of the adjustment bolt and the tip of the short arm to 1.2mm. The gauge should come out with a bit of resistance. Hold the head of the bolt and snug down the jamb nut. Next, use the two 15mm (wrench size) nuts to gradually tighten the clutch cable, keeping in your vision where the arc of the Bowden tube is, and concentrating on the gap that you’ve set to 1.2mm. The Bowden tube should rest about an inch from the side of the transmission, and you can actually see your gap at the adjustment bolt begin to close. When it does, wiggle the cable near its hook, it should be pretty tight. Insert your 1.0mm gauge in between the adjustment bolt and the tip of the short arm, and use the 15mm nuts to continue to tighten the cable until your gap is 1.0mm. Watch the Bowden tube as you final snug the two 15mm nuts, depending on how you turn them the tube will want to move out of its desired position.

Re-enter the car, and depress and release (by hand or foot) the clutch pedal a few times.

Go back under the car and recheck your cable tightness, and your measured gap. Adjust as necessary keeping in mind that all changes must be done by keeping the Bowden tube in position, the cable tight, and the final gap at 1.0mm.

Go inside the car, reinstall the floorboard and carpets (make sure that the gas pedal rod is seated properly in the gas pedal), pat yourself on the back and go for a drive.

[Hugh R]

John and Peter, thank you very, very much.

[Joe Bob]

Let us know if it is something broken or if the clutch is toast.....good luck.

[Alan Lindquist]

This all seems very familiar. When I went through this, the problem turned out to be a cracked/bent clutch fork at the throwout bearing and a broken shear pin/roller in the pedal assembly. If that's the case, re-indexing won't work. The clutch should really set up as shown in the book, or something is seriously off.

If it is a bent clutch fork and you somehow find enough adjustment to get the clutch to respond correctly, you'll have enough torque to bend the fork farther and you'll go out of adjustment quickly. In my case - one day of driving.

Just out of curiosity - how many miles do you have on that throwout fork?

And are you sure that the large spring that actuates the lever arm is in the right position? It can roll out into a "lazy" position and it's there, but not doing it's job. If there is a cutout in your heat exchangers and the spring isn't making use of that (too far away) maybe you can roll the spring back into it's natural position.

[javadog]

As long as you're under the car, after you get the clearance set, you might as well check the cable travel. To do this, you need a vernier caliper, or a metric ruler and very steady hands, plus an assistant. I use a vernier caliper. Basically, you make two measurements from a point you pick on the cable, to another reference point of your choice; one with the clutch pedal against the stop on the floor and the other with it fully released. The idea is that the cable moves a specified distance when the pedal is fully depressed. Offhand, I think it is 25mm +- 0.5mm. Check the spec book for your car, to be sure. You adjust the clutch pedal stop on the floor board, up or down, until you get the correct value.

JR